By Simone Shomaker.
I don’t know about you, but the social distancing and time spent home on the couch has me daydreaming about past travel, and feeling hopeful about travel in the future. In light of that, I wanted to write a blog post about one of my favorite trips I have taken to date…Borneo, Malaysia. Keep reading for my full Borneo itinerary, the ultimate 2 week adventure guide!
Borneo, Malaysia
You can imagine how excited I was when my fiancé Jacob said he wanted to take a big trip to celebrate finishing his PhD and officially becoming a doctor! After lots of research, we landed on Borneo, a rugged island in Asia boasting immediate access to remote nature. Borneo is the largest island in Asia and the third largest world wide, spanning across three nations: Malaysia, Brunei, and Indonesia. Borneo is often featured on “Planet Earth” and is known for its pristine beaches, the oldest rainforests on the planet, extensive underground cave systems, and rare wildlife. It is home to rare species such as clouded leopards, pygmy elephants, orangutans and many more….
Borneo Travel Tips
Before I dive into the fun part, here are a few quick things to note about traveling to Borneo. This is not a trip I would recommend to anyone if you want luxury resorts or a “sipping tropical cocktails by the pool” vacation, this is very much a remote adventure travel destination…
1- You can not drink the water here. Bring a water filter or buy bottled water.
2- Bring insect repellent, and lots of it! Malaria and Dengue are a concern here, we stocked up on anti malarial prophylactics as a preventative measure.
3- Be careful what you eat, as with other countries lacking water purification capabilities, the food can also transmit waterborne bacteria, especially fresh fruit and vegetables. We recommend eating cooked veggies and fruit that has to be peeled.
4- People speak some English, but not everyone does and communication can be a bit tricky, especially if you are going off the grid as we did.
5- Bring a rain jacket and tall socks to help prevent leeches when hiking in the rainforest.
6- Time to unplug! Wifi is spotty. It does the soul good to disconnect for a while.
7- Borneo is a really huge island, traveling around takes time. Flights are the quickest way as buses can take 6+ hours or more in some cases. Also we were not able to make it to some of the places we wanted to because flights/boats/shuttles were only offered once a week. Plan accordingly!
9- Bring binoculars so you can see all the amazing wildlife- you will be happy you did!
Borneo Itinerary
While we were on Borneo we hopped around quite a bit. Here is our itinerary:
-Arrive at Tawau Airport, drive to Semporna, Sabah (1 hour drive)
-Go from Semporna to the water house by boat (30 min boat ride)
-Return to Tawau Airport and fly to Sandakan (spend 1-2 days in Sandakan)
-Sandakan to Kinabatangan Rainforest (stop along the way at Orangutan & Sun Bear Sanctuary)
-Kinabatangan River, in Bilit, spend 3-4 days
-Kinabatangan to Sandakan
-Sandakan to Selingan Turtle Island by boat (3 hour boat ride)
-Selingan Turtle Island Conservation Center, spend 2 days here
-Return from Turtle Island to Sandakan
-Sandakan to Mainland Malaysia stay tuned for another blog post about this!
Where to Stay in Semporna, Sabah, Borneo
Semporna was the highlight of our trip. We ventured off the beaten path and stayed in a traditional water house. This was a really unique experience, which I highly recommend to anyone who loves the ocean. You can see the water below your room through the cracks in the wood floor, and hear/feel the ocean rock you to sleep. The houses are built on stilts over the water off shore. Fair warning, it is a bit rugged, but you can’t beat jumping off your porch straight into the ocean on the middle of a beautiful coral reef. To get here, we were picked up by boat from the docks of Semporna by our Airbnb host. It was about a 20 minute boat ride along the coast and out to the reef. We found this amazing Airbnb Maglami Lami Waterhouse which is owned by a lovely family who live there as well. They cook three delicious meals a day for you which is included in the accommodation cost. They also can arrange to charter a boat for you for fun day trips!
What to Do in Semporna, Borneo
Visit the Bajau Laut, Sea Gypsy Community
Each day we got picked up by boat for various day trips. One of our highlights was getting to see the Bajau Laut, sometimes known as the sea gypsies or sea nomads. This was an amazing and humbling experience. These people are nomadic and live solely off of the ocean. They live in huts over the sea and have no connection to the modern world. They are highly skilled free divers who forage for their food underwater. The ocean is their sole source of food. Scientific studies have even shown that they have evolved larger spleens to help them more efficiently carry oxygen and hold their breath. They are said to potentially be the last generation of sea gypsies because of climate change, pollution and overfishing threatening their daily existence. Getting a glimpse of their world is a very touching reminder that our impacts span far across the globe to places and people most don’t even realize exist.
Bohey Dulang Hike
From the Bajau Laut, we took a short boat ride to the famous and picturesque Bohey Dulang hike. This was one of the views we looked forward to seeing the most. When we got there we were disappointed to see an overwhelming number of boats carrying tourists. The hike itself was extremely overcrowded and regimented, each group had a guide and it was a single file line all the way up. Despite the overcrowding, the views were absolutely insane and it is still worth a visit. After the hike, enjoy the day snorkeling and freediving around the beautiful island to cool off!
Island Hopping near Semporna, Borneo
Off the coast of Semporna, Sabah has no shortage of beautiful islands and great snorkeling/freediving. We highly recommend visiting as many as possible including Mataking Island, Pom Pom Island, Mabul Island, and our next favorite, Sipadan Island.
Scuba Diving in Sipadan Island
Widely touted as one of the top dives of the world, we had to go check it out. A little about me, I love scuba diving and my fiancé is a marine ecologist. We have dove all over the world, and have been lucky enough to dive at many highly regarded sites. Sipadan definitely lived up to the hype! You have to get a lottery permit to dive here, and the government only issues a limited number of permits per day. They do this in order to preserve the marine ecosystem. We were lucky enough to score a day-of permit at the last minute, but I recommend trying to book one well in advance through one of the local dive shops in Semporna, or on Mabul Island. It is a several hour boat ride from Semporna to get to Sipadan, however it was well worth it and you won’t be disappointed. It was a dive filled to the brim with huge megafauna! For those of you without a marine biology background, think of giant bumphead parrotfish, huge green sea turtles, underwater tornadoes of giant barracuda, and reef sharks galore, what a treat! In between dives we got to relax and explore the beautiful island above water. I recommend bringing your own dive computer if you have one, the resort has a very small supply!
From the reefs to the jungles…
What to Do in Sandakan, Sabah, Borneo
Sandakan is the second largest city in the state of Sabah, and is full of history. I recommend stopping over here for one full day to take in some of the sights. It is also the gateway to get to the Kinabatangan River and Selingan Turtle Island. This was not my favorite stop of the trip, but there are some worthwhile things to see and do, and the cutest street puppies live here! We hired a driver for the day through our Airbnb host who took us all around town. This was very convenient because there are many quick stops worth seeing, and we got a local tour! We stayed right in the downtown area along the river at a no frills Airbnb which was convenient to walk to restaurants and check out some of the vegetable and seafood local markets.
Visit the Sandakan Rainforest Discovery Center and Gomantong Cave
We visited the Sandakan Rainforest Discovery Center and Gomantong Cave. The cave was very breathtaking from the outside, but if you are anything like me (and are terrified of roaches) you won’t want to venture too far inside. We were lucky enough to spot wild Orangutans on the walk to the cave which was absolutely magical.
Sandakan Memorial Park
There is a lot of history from Word War II in Sandakan. Take a walk through the beautiful and eerie Sandakan Memorial Park, this is one of the locations where the infamous death marches took place when the Japanese invaded Sandakan. Nearby, is a historical house built before the war that has been converted into a museum, and after you stroll through there you can go visit the English Tea House and Restaurant for a lovely scone and the cutest street puppies roaming the grounds (I almost brought one home with me!).
Sam Sing Kung Temple, Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple and the Buli Sim Sim Water Village
Our next stops on our Sandakan day tour were two temples that our guide recommended: Sam Sing Kung Temple and my personal favorite of the two, the Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple. Both temples are beautiful and worth seeing. Sing Kung is a small local temple with rustic charm, compared to Puu Jih Shih Temple, which is perfectly landscaped and quite extensive. There is a large Chinese population in Sandakan, and they live in the Buli Sim Sim water village which is built on stilts over the water. This was very interesting to visit, but hard to see in some ways due to the pollution they were living in. They have a famous Sim Sim Seafood Restaurant here that is popular with tourists from Asia because of the rare items on the menu. I felt quite uncomfortable inside this restaurant to be honest but it was eye opening to see some of the seafood that was being served and considered to be a delicacy.
Have a Drink at Balin Roof Garden
After our full day of adventuring, we found a wonderful rooftop bar called Balin Roof Garden, they also double as a pizza restaurant (a welcome change up after having noodles for every meal!). The bar turned out to be my favorite one of the whole trip and they had incredible espresso martinis in the cutest atmosphere!
Sepilok Orangutan Conservation Center & Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center
On the way to the Kinabatangan River, we stopped at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. The Sepilok Orangutan Center was a wonderful experience. You can sit and watch orangutans up close and personal as they go about their daily life. We even got to see some wild ones out in the park as we walked around. Be sure to catch feeding time while you are there, it was quite a sight! Conveniently located across the street is the Sun Bear Conservation Center. The sun bear is the smallest bear on the planet, and quite adorable! They are the size of a large dog, and get their name for their love of lounging in the sun. Definitely a must see!
Kinabatangan River Cruise
Next up, we scheduled a multi day trip into the rainforest in search of monkeys, pygmy elephants, clouded leopards and crocodiles. We chose Bilit Rainforest Lodge for our accommodation, which was rustic and jungly but oh so cool, and built on stilts on the edge of the river (due to the high amount of rain/flooding the area experiences). It takes about 2 hours to get here from Sandakan by car, and then you cross the river by boat. The river is massive! Each day we went on several river cruises and even a nighttime cruise. As you boat down the river, your guide will point out all the magical wildlife. We never caught a glimpse of the rare pygmy elephant, but were blown away by so many different kinds of monkeys (orangutans & proboscis to name a few), crocodiles, pythons, many species of birds, and lush riverside landscapes. Be sure to pack your mossie repellent for this spot! During your down time there are many places to take a jungle stroll (don’t forget the leech socks!), or read a book while you sit in your private hammock!
Selingan Turtle Island
This was one of my most favorite parts of the whole trip. We opted for a conservation based experience for our last few days on Borneo. This was quite fitting being that Jacob is a marine biologist/ecologist and my college degree was a Bachelors of Science in Marine Biology. The Selingan Turtle Island has been fully dedicated to turtle conservation. They offer packages for people to come learn about sea turtles and be a part of the conservation experience. While there, you can lounge on the beach while looking across the ocean at the neighboring islands of the Philippines. At night you are taken on guided and monitored missions to watch mama turtles lay their eggs using red lights that don’t disturb them. You then watch the process as they collect the eggs and take them to a protected hatchery. They have a guard who watches over the nursery 24/7 to make sure that no one poaches the eggs, and that no critters eat the eggs. When it’s time, they hatch into the cutest little babies and are released back into the wild. With all the threats that turtles face as a species, it was great to be a part of this and see locals who are so dedicated and invested in saving them.
Borneo Conservation
That concludes our wonderful time in Borneo. It was truly one of the coolest trips I have taken, so rugged, raw, and filled with rare wildlife. I hope that you get a chance to visit here someday! I want to take a moment to mention that deforestation is a huge concern here, and has decimated fifty percent of these ancient and biodiverse rainforests. Palm oil plantations and illegal logging are some of the biggest culprits. If you want to learn more and donate to the cause, check out World Wildlife Fund. Also consider donating to Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Center. I can only imagine how much these facilities are hurting with the lack of tourism from COVID-19. Thank you and stay tuned for my next post on mainland Malaysia!
I wanted to also thank my love Jacob Eurich @jacobeurich for all of the amazing photos he is always taking for me. If you are interested in marine conservation and photography give him a follow and check out his website https://www.jacobeurich.com/. He is doing amazing things to change the world!
Have you been to Borneo and have any additional recommendations for us? Comment below!
Xx,
Danielle and Simone
WHAT WE PACKED
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