Caribbean Compass Yachting Magazine

C A R I B B E A N

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C MPASS OCTOBER 2012 N NO. O. 205

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

Guatemala’s

Rio Dulce

STEVE JOST / WWW.STEVEJOSTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

See story on page 24

FISHING!

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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CARIBBEAN FISHING TOURNAMENTS

Go deep – and hold on. A renewed interest in deep water vertical jigging all evolved with Shimano’s Butterfly jigging system. Yo-Zuri’s new 3D Sashimi Lures imitate the natural color changing behavior of fleeing bait fish, which excites fish to feed. With UV attack points, Wave Motion Vibration, and magnified flash from the 3D prism finish, these lures are must haves for your fishing arsenal.

ST. THOMAS

TORTOLA NANNY CAY

ST. CROIX

Power Pro® Depth Hunter® metered braid, matched with thin diameter, extremely powerful Trevala® jig rods and the Shimano Butterfly® jigs, available in an assortment of colors and sizes, have proven their fish-catching abilities in oceans worldwide.

ST. MAARTEN/ ST. MARTIN

C&H is one of the last American lure companies. Often copied, but imitators can’t match their American engineering and dedication to C&H quality.

C&H Lures has been producing tournament winning fishing lures for over thirty years.

October 2012 The 2012 Chivas Regal Aruba Caribbean Cup November 2012 Funfish Tournament, Trinidad Budget Marine St. Maarten Annual Wahoo Tournament Trinidad Tarpon Tournament VIGFC Wahoo Windup - VI GHSF Wahoo Tournament - VI TTGFA Wahoo - Trinidad & Tobago January 2013 Budget Marine Spice Island Billfish Tournament, Grenada Bonaire International Fishing Tournament GHFC Marlin Tournament - VI March 2013 TTGFA Marlin Madness - Trinidad Fishing Tournament - Trinidad GHFC Dolphin Tournament - VI TIGFT(Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament) Curacao Annual International Blue Marlin Release Tournament April 2013 Tortola Spanish Town Fisherman Jamboree & Wahoo Fishing Tournament May 2013 Antigua & Barbuda Fishing Tournament TTGFA King Fish Tournament-Trinidad St Martin Billfish Tournament June/July 2013 Kingfish Tournament, Trinidad GHFC Jungle rules Sport Fish-VI Tobago House of Assembly Commercial Fishing Tournament Junior Angler Tournament, Trinidad Trinidad Tarpon Thunder Tournament August 2013 BVI Billfish Tournament Tarpon Tournament, Trinidad

ANTIGUA

Caribbean Duty Free List Prices. Check your local store for final pricing.

ARUBA

BONAIRE

CURAÇAO

GRENADA TRINIDAD

ANTIGUA • ARUBA • BONAIRE • CURAÇAO • GRENADA • ST. CROIX • ST. MAARTEN • ST. MARTIN • ST. THOMAS • TORTOLA • TRINIDAD

T h e C a r i b b e a n ’s L e a d i n g C h a n d l e r y

w w w. b u d g e t m a r i n e. co m

DEPARTMENTS

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com

OCTOBER 2012 • NUMBER 205 GOOCH

Buoy? Phooey! Musings on moorings ........... 27 HAMILTON

‘Island of Pretty Waters’

Cooking with Cruisers .......... 34 Meridian Passage ................. 36 Readers’ Forum ..................... 38 What’s On My Mind .............. 40 Calendar of Events ............... 41 Caribbean Market Place ..... 42 Classified Ads ....................... 46 Advertisers’ Index ................. 46

Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 compass@vincysurf.com www.caribbeancompass.com

Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr Panama: Distribution Red Frog Marina - www.redfrogbeach.com Shelter Bay Marina - www.shelterbaymarina.com Puerto Rico: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell (787) 219 4918, ellenbirrell@gmail.com Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 sunbaymarina@aol.com St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 mauricemoffat@hotmail.com St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Mob: + 590 690 760 100 steflegendre@wanadoo.fr St. Thomas/USVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell (787) 219 4918, ellenbirrell@gmail.com Distribution - Bryan Lezama Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg shellese@caribbeancompass.com Tel: (784) 457-3409 Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 Tortola/BVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell (787) 219-4918, ellenbirrell@gmail.com Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad; Sales & Distribution David Bovell, Tel: (868) 497-1040 davidbovell.ads@gmail.com Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 xanadumarine@hotmail.com

Editor...........................................Sally Erdle sally@caribbeancompass.com Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre jsprat@vincysurf.com Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman tom@caribbeancompass.com Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer wide@caribbeancompass.com Accounting............................Shellese Craigg shellese@caribbeancompass.com Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Tel (268) 720-6868 lucy@thelucy.com Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao curacao@budgetmarine.com Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, info@dominicamarinecenter.com Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 compassgrenada@gmail.com

Exploring Guadeloupe .......... 16

Really Free Time A no-cost tour of Trinidad ..... 22 FARNHAM

Roll ’Em!

Egg-laying leatherbacks ........ 22

Roti lessons in Bequia .......... 36

ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover photo: Photographer Steve Jost shares a taste of the sweetness of the river Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed

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“As soon as we arrived in the islands we began hearing about Caribbean Compass and reading it. We could see right away that there was a sense not only of readership but of community built around the Compass.” — Jack and Bobbie Greer S/V Moonrise

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Sea Turtle Trip

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd.

OCTOBER 2012

Info & Updates ...................... 4 Business Briefs ....................... 7 Regatta News........................ 12 Caribbean Voyaging ........... 28 Sailor’s Horoscope................ 30 Cruising Kids’ Corner ............ 31 Book Reviews ........................ 32 The Caribbean Sky ............... 33

Info & Updates Aruba: Changes in Customs Procedures Sander Vellinga reports: When arriving in Aruba, all yachts are required to go to the official port of entry at Barcadera Harbor to clear in before proceeding elsewhere on the island. The vessel and crew will have to be cleared both by Immigration and by Customs. First do the clearance at Immigration (Seaside office), then at Customs.

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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WWW.ARUBA-CRUISINGGUIDE.COM

Barcadera harbor looks desolate and industrial, and your first impression is going to be that you are in the wrong place. You are not

IMMIGRATION When clearing in, ask Immigration for a longer period than you intend to stay. Should your plans change you will not have to apply for an extension. Visa requirements: None for citizens of the USA, Canada or the European Union. Other nationalities can download entry requirements at www.aruba.com/sigma/ Entry_Req-Eng.pdf. For persons requiring a visa: Even though Aruba is part of the Netherlands, the visa has to specify Aruba. CUSTOMS As of October 1st, a new procedure for foreign-registered yachts will be applied by the Customs office of Aruba: outside of the regular clearance, you will also have to declare the vessel you are on. This will not need to be done upon arrival but can be done (no later than) the next day. For this you will need to use a Customs broker. The Customs broker will have to start the process of the declaration no later than your second day on the island. Cost will be about US$65 to US$100. EXCERPT OF THE RULES: If the yacht stays 180 days or less, a temporary import permit will need to be obtained. No deposit will be required. If the yacht stays longer than 180 days and up to a year, a temporary import permit will need to be obtained with payment of a deposit (or a bank guarantee) for the value of the duties for the yacht. If the yacht will stay longer than a year, the yacht will have to be imported. At the expiration of the temporary permit the yacht will have to leave the island for at least 15 days before a new temporary permit can be applied for. Yachts brought into Aruba with the intention of sale will have to pay duties upon arrival. Your Customs broker will have to start the process of the declaration no later than your second day on the island. Two available brokers are Landseair (Harold), (297) 582-9284 and Ashley Broker, (297) 593-8305, ashleybroker@setarnet.aw. HARBOR FEE As of January 1st, 2011, Aruba Ports Authorities charges a port fee for yachts tied up to their docks: US$10 per hour from 0800 to 1600 hours, $15 per hour from 1600 to 0800, and $20 per hour on weekends and holidays. A uniformed harbor security officer will collect this in cash at the vessel while you are tied up. For more information visit www.Aruba-cruisingguide.com. Panama Now More Attractive to Retiree Cruisers According to an August 18th report at www.panama-guide.com, Panama’s National Immigration Service has stated that foreigners who apply within the Immigration status of retirees (pensionados) will now be eligible for the permanent resident identification card or cedula. In the past, although permanent residency was given to retirees from other countries, they were not given a cedula. The applicant for retiree resident status is required to have a pension of not less than US$1,000 per month. As reported in SailWorld.com on August 20th, the prospect of obtaining retiree resident status has attracted long-term cruisers to Panama. SailWorld says, “If you would love to spend the rest of your life sailing in idyllic waters and are a citizen of Australia, the US, UK or Canada or a limited list of other countries, Panama could be your destination. —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page “Many cruising sailors have reached the San Blas, decided they are already in heaven, and stayed as long as they could. Now that decision has just become easier by a recent act of the Panamanian government. “Panama has always welcomed foreigners from all points and now they’re making it even easier with its new ‘Immediate Permanent Resident’ visa. The visa has just recently passed into law and applies to residents of 22 countries that Panama deems to have maintained friendly diplomatic and economic ties with the country.”

on his head, blades flapping like three ears: ‘It’s my Kadooment costume, officer!’” Chris Doyle says, “I always found Willie to be engaging and entertaining. He had a twinkle in his eye and was always full of good humor. He was stout and well built, looked strong and tough — a good guy to have on your side. His word was his bond, no contracts necessary. He was a wonderful character who added color to the waterfront scene, and he will be missed.”

Vessel Aground at West Cay, Bequia On the night of August 23rd while southbound, a cargo vessel from Dominica called Love Divine went aground between Middle Cay and West Cay, Bequia. As the St.

JEAN VALLETTE

NICOLA CORNWELL

St. Martin Marine Trades Group’s New Board Métimer, the association for maritime professionals in St. Martin, elected a new board of directors at its 12th Annual General Meeting on September 10th. The group works for the development of the yachting industry, nautical tourism, recreational marine services and associated trades, in cooperation with other bodies in the public and private sectors.

Left to right: Anke Roosens, Régine Hée, Thierry Girard, Bastiaan de Rooij, Isabelle Bonnefoy, Bulent Gulay, Alain Leprince, Fanoula Roozendaal and Brigitte Delaître Vincent & the Grenadines coast guard vessel responding to the mayday call apparently could not get close enough, the grounded vessel’s crew were taken off by locals and yachtsmen in small boats. As directed by the SVG Maritime Administration, the shipowner had the fuel pumped from the vessel on August 31st. It was later reported that a slick of diesel was sighted in the vicinity of the ship on September 7th, for less than three hours. According to the Maritime Administration’s assessment, a small amount of fuel had been trapped in the hull and escaped at low tide. A September 8th examination of the ship showed no further evidence of a fuel leak. The owner reportedly plans to have ship removed as soon as possible in a manner aimed at preventing damage to the environment. Smaller vessels can use a pass between Middle Cay and the Bequia “mainland”, but it’s probably best to swim across the shoal between Middle Cay and West Cay!

THE DIFFERENCE IS what we do and the way we do it. AMENITIES

• Official Cruising Station of SSCA

• Complementary Cable TV and Wi-Fi • Water and Electricity • Restrooms and Showers • Laundry Facilities • Nearby Ship's Chandlery and Convenience Store • Near Small Eateries and Upscale Elegant Restaurants such as El Conquistador Hotel and Casino • US Custom and Immigration Located 1/2 mile Away by Dinghy • Ample Parking

Join us today and be part of our family.

¡VISIT US! at Fajardo, our webpage www.sunbaymarina.com or at the Administration Office at the Marina, open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm

T: 787.863.0313 F: 787.863.5282 E: sunbaymarina@aol.com Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico

Close to:

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is a tradition, in family boating... boating ...

• Professional and Courteous Staff • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” • Safety, Cleanliness and Service is our Primary Concern • Whole Area Patrolled by 24 Hour Security • Camera Surveillance

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Four Jailed for Tobago Cays Burglary Four residents of the tiny Grenadine island of Mayreau were given jail terms following the burglary of a yacht anchored in the Tobago Cays on August 17th. According to local newspaper reports, Jordan Forde (18) was sentenced to nine months and Jason Alexander (25) six months for the theft of cash from the yacht, and Tanisha Forde (18) and Jenelia Forde (28) were sentenced to three and four months respectively for receiving stolen property. The yacht had been chartered in Grenada by a group of family and friends from New York, who had secured the yacht and gone ashore for a barbecue. They subsequently reported the theft to the Union Island police. In addition to the jail terms, Senior Magistrate Sonia Young ordered Forde and Alexander to write a letter to the visitors expressing their remorse. Although Forde, who reportedly had two prior convictions, asked to be allowed to pay a fine instead of serving time, the magistrate stated that anyone brought before her court and found guilty of breaking into yachts would be sent to prison. —Continued on next page

OCTOBER 2012

Eight Bells Willie Hassell was a well-known Barbados yachtsman who often cruised the Grenadines. He died on August 27th, in his 70s. He did much commercial diving work in the islands, and in Barbados before his retirement, he and his son, Michael, ran Willie’s Diving and Marine Services, located in the south end of the inner Bridgetown Harbour (also known as the Shallow Draft Harbour). Michael continues the business. Friends say Willie lived life to its utmost and describe him as a man who was friendly, generous and honest, who loved to sail and, by many accounts, was addicted to crab-backs. He also had a sense of humor. Ian Cowan of St. Lucia recalls, “He got a large Brunton propellor via my shop, and when he was on his way back to Barbados by plane I asked how he was going to deal with Customs at the airport. He took the prop out of its box, sat the thing on top of its conical styrene packing, and placed it

The new board members are Bulent Gulay, President; Thierry Girard, Vice-President; Brigitte Delaitre, Secretary; Régine Hee, Treasurer; Alain LePrince, President of the Metidive Committee; Fanoula RoozendaaL, President of the Metices Committee; Anke Roosens, member responsible for relations with Dutch St. Maarten; and Bastiaan De Rooij, member responsible for relations with Dutch St. Maarten; and Isabelle Bonnefoy, Committees Secretary. For more information visit www.metimer.fr.

—Continued from previous page Tobago Sailing School Formed The newly formed Tobago Sailing School is now offering a programme of “Sailing for All” on the island. It follows a successful two-week Summer Sailing Camp held at Pigeon Point Heritage Park from July 23rd to August 3rd. During the course, 45 children, aged seven to 17, were introduced to a syllabus accredited to the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association. Following a mandatory swim test, the children were taught the rules of safety, how to get afloat, how to build their sailing skills and put them into practice and, finally, racing. Parents were issued with a reference manual, which included special focus on the safety aspects of sailing. The Tobago Sailing School with the support of the Sports Company of Trinidad & Tobago and the Division of Education, Youth Affairs and Sport, Tobago House of Assembly and the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association organized the sailing camp — a first in Tobago. At the end of the camp all of the trainee sailors were able to put their sailing skills into practice, out at sea, on their own in their dinghies, and were continually assessed by the team of Tobago Sailing School instructors. All students earned Optimist dinghy sailing proficiency certificates and there were trophies for Most Outstanding Girl Sailor, won by Rhea Mangaroo; Most Outstanding Boy Sailor, won by Nathaniel Clarke; and three awards for Most Improved Sailor won by Venice Rodriguez, Akila Jack and Michael Rodriguez. The Tobago Sailing School, a non-profit organization, was the brainchild of Frank Sarazin, a former Olympic team sailor who, together with Sean Clarke, David Milne, Andrew Llanos, Samuel Quamina and Malcolm Johnson, decided that Tobago needed a sailing school to provide sailing opportunities for everyone on the island. For more information contact Malcolm Johnson at tobagosailingschool@gmail. com or (868) 761-3534.

OCTOBER 2012

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New Youth Sailing Programme in St. Lucia A newcomer to the day charter industry in St Lucia, Jus’ Sail, based in Rodney Bay Marina, held its inaugural Youth Sail Training Programme from August 13th through

19th. The purpose of the programme was to reconnect participants with the heritage of West Indian sailing through an introduction to the basics of seamanship aboard an authentic Carriacou sloop, Good Expectation, while giving an overview of various possible careers within the marine sector. Three students — Lance Jean (16), Prince Stanislas (15) and Jn Pierre Prudent (14) — were accepted into the programme through a partnership with Corinth Secondary School. All three students completed the programme and received certificates of satisfactory participation. Jus’ Sail’s husband-and-wife team, James and Pepsi Crockett, hope that the programme will become an annual event with increased participation. The likelihood of the programme growing is made all the more possible by the generous sponsorship in terms of financial assistance and staff time of IGY Rodney Bay Marina. On behalf of the students, Jus’ Sail would like to thank Adam Foster, General Manager of IGY Rodney Bay Marina and Boat Yard, for his support of the programme and all the staff and contractors who shared their experience and time with the students over the week. For more information on Jus’ Sail and its youth programme visit www.jussail.com. Cruisers’ Site-ings • The Bahamas Sailing Association’s new website is now live. Check it out at www.BAHsailing.org. • Grenada Grenadines Yachting, the magazine produced by the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada, is available at http://flipflashpages.uniflip.com/3/67439/132262/pub. • The Jost van Dyke Preservation Society is working to maintain one beautiful corner of the Caribbean through research and education. Visit their site at www.jvdps.org. • See “Barbados of the Past”, images from the Barbados Museum collection, at www.flickr.com/photos/nationalarchives/sets/72157630651715976/show. • There’s a lot happening at FreeCruisingGuides.com. The new sub-site for Sister Flora of the orphanage at Ile-à-Vache, Haiti includes a video interview of Sister Flora: http://freecruisingguides.com/sister-flora-orphanage-2. Also at FreeCruisingGuides.com is the latest four-month update of its Caribbean Security Index (CSI) as a free PDF. And now the fifth edition of A Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic by Frank Virgintino is downloadable as a free PDF at www.freecruisingguides.com. The 5th edition has 38 additional pages and includes expanded coverage for remote areas such as the southwest part of the Dominican Republic. There are 20 percent more charts in the new edition, all annotated for ease of use. Mooring Field Planned for Port Antonio, Jamaica A 25-buoy mooring field is planned for Port Antonio, Jamaica’s West Harbour adjacent to the Errol Flynn Marina for the 2012-13 operating season. The new 18-inch numbered buoys will replace the remaining few 12-inch old buoys and end the need for most yachts to use their own anchors. The system will be designed for yachts of up to 40 feet LOA. Additional anchorage areas will be designated for larger vessels. For more information contact info@errolflynnmarina.com. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertisers Assurances Maritime Antilles of Martinique, on page 19; Craig Catamarans of the USA, on page 25; and Crackajack car rentals of Trinidad, and Richard Dey author, both in the Market Place section. Good to have you with us!

BUSINESS BRIEFS Nissan Outboards Now at Island Water World Island Water World now carries outboard engines from Nissan. Competitively priced with a clean and simple design, the Nissan two-stroke two-cylinder engine remains one of the best engines on the market — not only in terms of power-toweight ratio, but also with excellent reliability. Island Water World carries a full range from 3.5 to 30 horsepower, including 18-horsepower models. Also available are four-stroke models including a 15-horsepower version. For more information, please check Island Water World’s E-commerce website, www.islandwaterworld.com and see ad on page 48. BVI Yacht Sales Keeps Selling Boats! Brian Duff reports: BVI Yacht Sales is proving that even in a ‘recession economy’ folks still want to go sailing. 2012 to date has been a much busier year than the previous with volume up about 18 percent; and more promising still we have found sales of vessels over US$125,000 have literally doubled relative to 2011 — showing that not only are more buyers gaining the confidence to go sailing, but they are doing it on nicer boats as well.

OCTOBER 2012

Free Storage with Brokerage at Marina ZarPar Frank Virgintino reports: Marina ZarPar in the Dominican Republic has installed a comprehensive yacht brokerage program, Boatmax. The boat can stay free at Marina ZarPar until it sells, and then is billed for only the normal broker’s commission of ten percent. There is absolutely no storage fee to be paid unless the boat is removed from the program before it sells. Owners decide the selling price. The boat is listed at the marina and also on the Yachtworld website (www.yachtworld.com), as Boatmax is a member of that listing service. —Continued on next page

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Three IGY Marinas Receive Five Gold Anchors The three premier marinas in the IGY Yacht Haven Grande Collection — Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas; Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia; and The Yacht Club at Isle de Sol, St. Maarten — have each been awarded Five Gold Anchors by the Yacht Harbour Association (TYHA). The Gold Anchor Award Scheme is a voluntary assessment program, which is focused on customer service and providing quality moorings for the boat owner. The ratings range from one to five Gold Anchors and provide assurance of the credibility and quality of the marina when assessed against the technical criteria based on TYHA’s Code of Practice for the design, construction and operation of marinas. Marinas are assessed by fully qualified marina assessors, berth holders’ feedback and independent mystery shoppers. The program operates in 23 countries and has been active for 24 years. Recently, the program was given Practical Boat Owner magazine’s Green Initiative award in 2011. For more information on IGY marinas visit www.igymarinas.com. For more information on Rodney Bay Marina see ad on page 8.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

We expect to see the trend of increasing volume and increasing value of vessel to continue throughout this coming season. While now might not be the best time to sell your boat, it’s certainly not a bad time: the market is active and boats are selling because people still want to go sailing. The BVI attracts sailors from all around the world, who come to visit as well as to buy and use their boats here. While in past years the United States has been the source of the majority of our buyers and sellers, we have noticed this year a reduction in buyers from the USA down ten percent. Europe has traditionally been the second major source of sailors visiting our islands. However, we are seeing an increase of over 20 percent in visitors from other parts of the world, which is really promising for our community on the whole. The arrival of buyers from New Zealand, Australia and in particular South American countries and Canada has really helped offset the effects of the troubled economies of the USA and Europe over the past few years. Each year our Caribbean Season typically kicks off in October: restaurants and hotels re-open and the visitors start coming again in large numbers — the weather cools off a bit and the sailors come back down again as well. We have found a very strong connection between our British Virgin Islands and the sailing community of the northeast United States, a great reason to make the effort each year to set up a booth and display at the Annapolis Boat Show, held over the Columbus Day holiday each year. This show is attended by as many as 100,000 sailing and yachting enthusiasts and is a great place to meet new boaters, encourage visits to the Caribbean, and see lots of old friends as well. We sincerely hope to see you up there at Booth L10. And as always, please visit us at www.bviyachtsales.com. For more information see ad on page 40.

—Continued from previous page The Boatmax program was started in 1995 at Minneford Marina (www.minnefordmarina.com) on City Island in New York, a facility that I have owned since 1982. I believe this is the only program of its type. It has worked excellently at Minneford’s Marina ZarPar in the Dominican Republic now offers Boatmax brokerage

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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for the past 17 years, with an average of 100 boats in the program at all times on site. Now the program will be replicated in the Caribbean at Marina ZarPar. For more information on Marina ZarPar see ad on page 35. Specialist Marine Insurance Broker Offshore Risk Management asks: How does your marine or watersports insurance source rate? Do you often know more than your agent? Pay more than you should? Have insurance “surprises”? Always have your call returned? You need a Specialist Insurance Broker, not a part-time agent that knows little about your business. Offshore Risk Management Insurance Brokers & Intermediaries say: Marine insurance is our only business. We provide all types of marine insurance worldwide, from dinks to dreadnoughts, watersports, pleasure, charter, cargo, service providers and just about everything else. We have the expertise, we have the insurers and we have the time for you. For more information see ad on page 37. Tall Ship to Base at St. Martin This Winter The brigantine Eye of the Wind will be based this winter on the pier at Fort Louis Marina in Marigot on the French side of St. Martin. The ship has been featured in several films including “Blue Lagoon”, “Savage Island”, “Tai-Pan” and “White Squall”.

The ship visited the island last season for the first time during a three-day stopover before crossing the Atlantic back to Europe. Thanks to the great services they received at Fort Louis Marina and the hospitality on the entire island, the owning company made the decision to work with their agent, Yacht Assistance, out of St. Martin as from the new season. The over 100-year-old vessel will arrive around December 11th and sail one- and two-week charters around the Leeward and Virgin Islands. Besides the charters, Eye of the Wind also offers youngsters in the Caribbean islands the possibility to sail on the ship as a trainee through the Caribbean Sail Training Association (www.CaribbeanSailTrainingAssociation.com) and in cooperation with the Maritime School of the West Indies. For more information visit www.EyeOfTheWind.net. New Marine Surveyor in St. Lucia Boat captains, owners, brokers and insurance companies are informed that St. Lucia now has a newly qualified member of the United States Marine Surveyors Association. With years of commercial shipping experience behind him, Olsen McQuilkin from St. Lucia, who resides in the Castries area, is now a fully qualified Master Marine Surveyor qualified to survey fishing vessels, yachts and small vessels and is also fully qualified as an Accident and Fraud Investigator with Expert Witness Guidelines. Mr. McQuilkin can be contacted for any kind of marine survey work at omcquilkin@hotmail.com, (758) 453-7065 or (758) 723-6668. Sneak Peek Sample of Boat Galley Cookbook Looking for some new recipes that you can actually make in your boat’s galley? Good food, but not gourmet? Using ingredients you can actually find and store on your boat? Recipes that don’t require a bunch of electrical appliances? —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page The Boat Galley Cookbook, due out this month, promises all that plus information on food storage, substitutions, outfitting your galley and more. Carolyn Shearlock and Jan Irons, the authors, are experienced cruisers with a combined 21,000 miles under their keels. But here’s the neat part — you can have a sneak peek of it right now, for free. And it’s not some fluffy marketing piece, but recipes and information you can use right now: 33 boat-friendly recipes plus info on solving oven hot spots. Get your copy at http://theboatgalley.com/sneak-peak-of-the-boat-galley-cookbook. The complete book, at 464 pages, is billed as “the one comprehensive galley reference needed aboard every cruising boat. It contains over 800 everyday recipes made from obtainable ingredients without electrical appliances, plus in-depth information on unfamiliar cooking techniques, food storage, substitutions and more.” But don’t take their word for it — try The Boat Galley Cookbook Sampler yourself! Caribbean Marine Directory and Rating Program Free Cruising Guides will shortly launch a comprehensive Caribbean Marine Directory and Rating Program. The Directory will be like other directories, however, the difference will be that users will be able to assign a one- through five-star rating for the service they received and leave comments as well. This program is scheduled to launch by December 1st. Watch this space! For more information on Free Cruising Guides see ad on page 37.

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First, their unique “nearby” feature provides users a real-time map displaying services and destinations near the user directly on their mobile device, even without an internet connection; and the island-specific “musts” is a budget-friendly top ten list of activities Wilson and McKenzie feel really give travelers a true Caribbean experience. “We wanted to provide other travelers with a guide that gave more than just a list of popular destinations, we wanted travelers to have authentic Caribbean adventures,” Wilson said. “With that in mind, we created the ‘musts’ list, an overview of activities on each island that really enables travelers to experience the Caribbean culture and lifestyle.” McKenzie and Wilson also realized that not every traveler is comfortable pursuing adventures on their own and included a “native links” feature, a list of reputable local travel guides that users can contact directly from both the website and mobile device. McKenzie said it was important that the mobile application provide similar functionality as the website because modern travelers expect technology to provide constant access to the same information. The MyTravel Insider app mirrors the website by providing businesses an opportunity to showcase their amenities with high quality slideshows on the website that are also appealing from handset-sized screens. The app not only provides these businesses’ contact information, it also provides users with a convenient method of booking accommodations directly. “With the growing number of smartphone users, our company is providing a more efficient way to promote one’s business,” McKenzie added. “By providing a onestop-shop for Caribbean travelers we’re able to conveniently connect businesses and travelers with one another.” The easy-to-use MyTravel Insider mobile app will be available on both Apple and Android platforms Fall 2012. Travelers can sign up today with MyTravel Insider at www.mytravelinsider.com. Like them on Facebook www.facebook.com/mytravelinsider. Follow them on Twitter @mytravelinsider

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Jamaican models Kimanee Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie have a new ‘insiders’ app for Caribbean travelers

OCTOBER 2012

MyTravel Insider: Convenient Caribbean Alternatives Modern travelers to the Caribbean islands are looking for the kind of unique adventures that cannot be found in travel guides. Jamaican supermodels Kimanee Wilson and Jaunel McKenzie know all too well about this and have started MyTravel Insider as a response to their unfulfilled needs when traveling. “Travelers today are looking for genuine alternatives to the standard locations that everyone goes to when traveling,” McKenzie said. “Today’s traveler wants a unique experience and they want it now; they don’t want to wait and sift through brochures to find that experience, they want a convenient way of finding it and booking it.” Wilson and McKenzie have noted that during their travels, there was not a convenient mobile application specialized to the Caribbean — one that provides the kind of information and recommendations only natives had access to, while also allowing them to book directly. When they developed the service, they made sure to include specific functions that could give every traveler these benefits, including a “nearby” function showing services in proximity to a user’s location and reviews and ratings from fellow Caribbean travelers. MyTravel Insider further prides itself on being able to provide intrepid travelers with highlights of the “off-the-beaten-path” hidden gems as well as popular spots and detailed reviews of accommodations, beaches, dining and nightlife. Two exclusive MyTravel Insider features truly separate it from the traditional guide.

Regatta-Time Fundraisers Support Carriacou Children’s Education

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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by Gordon Evans Continued support from the cruising community and local businesses over a dozen years has propelled the Carriacou Children’s Education Fund’s donations to date to more than EC$185,000 (US$69,000). There were several changes this year in the Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF) operations. Then the possibility of a tropical storm threatened cancellation of CCEF’s major fundraising activities that traditionally take place during Carriacou’s annual regatta week. But the storm passed to the north and the results of CCEF’s 2012 fundraising campaign brought smiles to the faces of everyone involved. As always, all proceeds collected will fund CCEF projects, including providing school uniforms and supplies, Meals from Keels (lunches for needy Harvey Vale school children), and scholarships to the TA Marryshow Community College. CCEF Operational Changes One of the significant changes in operations was that, after 18 years cruising the Eastern Caribbean, John and Melodye Pompa on S/V Second Millennium retired from the cruising life, selling their sailboat and moving ashore in Florida, USA. John and Melodye were a driving force behind CCEF for many years, and their leadership and enthusiasm will be missed. CCEF and the entire cruising community offer a hearty thank-you for their many years of hard work and best wishes in their new lifestyle. Stepping forward to assume the leadership role are Harm and Lizzy on S/V Horta. More changes resulted from the recent change in ownership of the former Tyrrel Bay Haul-Out facility and the merging of its operations with the adjacent restaurant, store and lodging formerly known as the Tyrrel Bay Yacht Club. For many years the Yacht Club

served as the collection and storage location for items donated to CCEF’s annual charity auction, and hosted CCEF’s Annual Cruisers’ Potluck Barbecue and the auction itself. A big thank-you is due to Trevor of the Yacht Club for his past contributions. George and Connie of Arawak Divers volunteered their shop to serve as the new collection point for visiting cruisers’ donations of items for auction and cash contributions. Frankie Matheson generously offered the After Ours Night Club, located directly above Arawak Divers, as storage space for the donated items, as well as use of the Night Club’s balcony for the auction. —Continued on next page

‘We done good!’ The Carriacou Children’s Education Fund cruiser volunteers for 2012 in a traditional group photo announcing the overall fundraising results. More donations were received after the photo shoot, bringing the 12-year total to over EC$185,000

and the attendance and raffle ticket donations combined to add EC$440 to CCEF’s fundraising efforts. With what was eventually to become Hurricane

Harm and Lizzy of S/V Horta presenting original artwork by Anna Allegra Desio to Melodye and John Pompa as a thank-you gift from CCEF

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Ernesto looming as an increasing threat to Carriacou, on the Thursday a number of vessels sought refuge in the large mangrove lagoon adjacent to Tyrrel Bay. The yacht racing skippers’ meeting scheduled for that evening, as well as Friday’s Around the Island yacht race, were postponed, but CCEFs Annual Auction was held as scheduled at 1500 hours on the Friday afternoon. This event is more than an auction, with several tables set up to sell donated items at whatever price can be negotiated. Tables included the popular “bar-

gain table” of boat parts, electronics and all manner of miscellaneous items; a household goods table; books and charts table; hats, T-shirts and more. At about 1600 hours Harm began the auctioning of larger items, assisted by Gordon and George. Auctioned items included a laptop computer, computer printer, sewing machine, microwave, sea drogue, wind vane steering, original artwork and prints, several certificates for “dinners for two” at nearby restaurants, a gourmet cake, a massage, a scuba lesson, and a haulout at Tyrrel Bay’s haul-out facility. While a number of volunteers assisted at the various sale tables, John on S/V Nerissa deserves special recognition for collecting an astounding EC$945 at the “bargain table”. Despite a much smaller attendance at the auction because of the storm threat and rainy conditions, the auction resulted in a total collection of EC$5,820. This year’s CCEF fundraising activities culminated on Thursday, August 5th at Kate and Daniela’s Slipway Restaurant, with the traditional photo session and announcement of the 2012 results. Although weather had an adverse impact on fundraising during the Carriacou Regatta activities, several cash donations during the year significantly bolstered the overall results. Harm proudly announced the collection of a record-setting EC$29,457 for 2012’s campaign. Deposit of an additional EC$4,335 a couple days later raised CCEF’s 12-year total collection of funds for Carriacou’s school children to over EC$185,000. Many Thanks Congratulations are due to all involved and heart-felt thank-yous to all who donated. Recognition is due the following businesses for their generous donations — AD Prints, After Ours, All At Sea, Anna Allegra Desio Artwork, Arawak Divers, Caribbean Compass, Carriacou Marine Ltd, Easy Shopping Supermarket, Kato Charles Folk Art Studio, Kim’s Plaza Supermarket, Lambi Queen Restaurant, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Lumbadive, Massages by Genevieve, Patty’s Deli, Regatta Jupa, Simply Carriacou Boutique, Slipway Restaurant, Tanty Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain, and Twilight Restaurant — and to everyone who makes CCEF’s free WiFi possible in Tyrrel Bay. Now, help us make our next goal: surpassing the EC$200,000 milestone in 2013’s CCEF campaign. Drop items for auction and cash contributions by Arawak Divers when you pass through Carriacou. See Daniela at the Slipway Restaurant for CCEF’s WiFi service. And mark Carriacou on your calendar for the 2013 Annual Carriacou Regatta!

OCTOBER 2012

—Continued from previous page Daniela of the Slipway Restaurant, located close to the haul-out facility, has assumed responsibility for distributing the password for CCEF’s free WiFi service and collecting voluntary donations from users of that service. Events During Carriacou Regatta 2012 On July 25th, during the 48th annual Carriacou Regatta, Harm and Lizzy, assisted by Judy and Gordon on S/V Dreamcatcher, began distributing flyers to vessels anchored in Tyrrel Bay and to local businesses, detailing the upcoming CCEF activities. A number of first-time visitors to Carriacou, along with seasoned cruisers, participated in both CCEF’s activities and the races [see full Carriacou Regatta coverage in last month’s Compass]. On July 27th, Harm began broadcasting the local CCEF and Regatta Cruisers’ Net on the VHF. Unfortunately, by the weekend a developing tropical disturbance to the southeast of the Windward Islands became a major topic of conversation. Monday through Wednesday of Regatta week, a number of vessels that had gathered in Tyrrel Bay decided to head for parts farther south. Although a number of others en route by-passed Carriacou, fortunately, a few arrived and stayed. About 45 cruisers gathered late Wednesday afternoon, August 1st, at Tanty Lizzy’s Seaside Fountain restaurant for the Annual Cruisers’ Potluck Barbecue, the kick-off event for CCEF’s fundraising during Regatta. Judy and Gordon again organized this year’s potluck, collecting EC$5 contributions from those attending. Tanty Lizzy’s is a new venue for this event, and although Tanty Lizzy was off-island, her son Eric provided two barbecue grills set up next to the covered picnic tables by the beach, as well as another canopied picnic table. Inside the restaurant Eric provided a large table for the various potluck dishes that cruisers brought to share, as well as a number of smaller tables for those who chose to eat their dinners inside. Thanks are due to Eric for his hospitality and his donation of charcoal, and to his son Deisean, who assisted Eric in distributing liquid refreshments at the cash bar. Gordon also sold raffle tickets for the increasingly popular Potluck Raffle of several items donated by local businesses. Raffle tickets could be bought at two for EC$5, but shrewd buyers opted to purchase five for EC$10. Following dinner and a last-second flurry of raffle ticket purchases, Gordon raffled the prizes. Although attendance was understandably smaller than in recent years, a good time was enjoyed by all,

PAGE 11

REGATTA NEWS

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 12

Hobie Races at Grenada’s Newest Yacht Club Friendly competition flowed during the Hobie Cat Match Races hosted by the Petit Calivigny Yacht Club (PCYC) in Grenada on July 21st. Participants of all ages came out to enjoy the

superb day of racing at Le Phare Bleu Marina on the island’s south coast. Winning places went to Kenzo Szyjan (first), Adam Brown (second), and Bob Goodchild (third). The PCYC wishes to thank event sponsors The Canvas Shop and Palm Tree Marine for prizes, Le Phare Bleu Marina for the venue, and the Rex Grenadian Resort for supplying two additional Hobie cats which facilitated a more efficient race day. The PCYC was formed by a group of boating enthusiasts to support yachting events and water sports in Grenada, particularly in the Calivigny Bay area. New members are welcome. For more information visit www.pcycgrenada.com.

Kids Rock Bonaire Windsurf Championship The 8th Pro Kids Bonaire Freestyle and Slalom Championship, held August 2nd through 5th, also celebrated the 25th anniversary of the Aquaspeed Bonaire Windsurfers organization. The program included windsurf freestyle and slalom competitions, standup paddleboard races, dominos, bocce ball, and beach soccer, plus bands, bars and barbecues. The Telbo Big Splash competition, where participants race across a course of trampolines, logs, jungle gyms and more inflatable floating obstacles — all while the fire department uses the big hoses to try to knock the participants down — made for great entertainment. Including many of the top-ranked sailors in the world, there were 47 participants from Bonaire, two from

Aruba, 15 from Curaçao, two from Mexico, one from the USA and two from Holland. There were six sailors under age seven, with the youngest being only two years old: just too cute to watch! The first day the winds were mild, yet there were still great performances on the water. The second day the winds were screaming, so the show was exciting! In the protected and shallow waters of Lac Bay on the windward side of the island, there is perfect wind to learn or to hone your windsurfing skills. For more information visit www.prokidsfreestyle.com or the Facebook page Prokids Windsurfing Bonaire. (Click on the trailer for “Children of the Wind” to see a documentary telling the story of children from Bonaire who journey from humble beginnings to international fame in the sport of windsurfing.) —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page Bonaire Celebrates 45th Regatta This Month The Bonaire Regatta began in 1968 with a bet for 27 cases of beer between Captain Don Stewart and Ebo Domacasse. The 45th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta will run October 7th through 13th. The Regatta has become an island-wide festival

December: St. Lucia’s Inaugural Mango Bowl Regatta Excitement is building rapidly in anticipation of St. Lucia’s new Mango Bowl Regatta taking place December 1st and 2nd, with nearly EC$38,000 worth of sponsorship already committed and more expected as this issue of Compass goes to press. IGY Marinas were quick to confirm a generous Gold Sponsorship and support for future years. The Ocean Club in Rodney Bay Marina, Nagico Insurance and

New Rapier Trophy for Round Barbados Race A new trophy comes to the Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Racing Series. The Rapier Trophy will be awarded to the yacht with the best corrected time for the circumnavigation of the island as calculated under the CSA Measurement Handicap Rule. This trophy celebrates the innovative approach that Al Rapier of Trinidad applied to measurement handicapping of yachts in the Caribbean. His work has enabled yachts to race throughout the region over the past 40 years using a measurement system that allows the yacht to be measured in the water. The system flourishes today as one of the most practical and fair handicap systems in the world: the Caribbean Sailing Association’s Racing Rule. In the early 1970s yacht racing in the region was stifled by the lack of an active regional body to manage the sport and by the lack of a credible handicap system under which to race. Into that void came Al Rapier who, encouraged by others in Trinidad, especially Sydney Knox, came up with a solution. From that work and the input of others from Antigua, Barbados, the US and British Virgin Islands, the West Indies Yachting Association, now the Caribbean Sailing Association, was born and the regional regattas we know today found a platform on which to play. —Continued on next page

THE INAUGURAL ST LUCIA YACHT CLUB

OPEN TO ALL SENIOR YACHT CLASSES INCLUDING:

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t 4VSQSJTF $MBTT + $MBTT will race together with an overall Cash Prize plus Sponsor Trophies on Handicap for 1st, 2nd & 3rd for the Short Nine Race Series t 4VSQSJTF $MBTT will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd t + $MBTT will also receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd t 3BDJOH $SVJTJOH $MBTT :BDIUT QMVT $SVJTJOH $MBTT $BUBNBSBOT will receive trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd &OUSZ 'FF US$100.00 %JTDPVOU if you pay & enter before Friday November16th. Visit: 4-:$ XFCTJUF GPS QBZNFOU EFUBJMT

Check SLYC Website for prgress on “FEEDER YACHT RACE� FROM BARBADOS TO RODNEY BAY, ST LUCIA, STARTING AT MIDNIGHT ON NOVEMBER 24.

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PAGE 13

DECEMBER IST & 2ND

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Next Month: St. Croix International Regatta 2012 Come race and celebrate the 20th anniversary of the St. Croix International Regatta. Registration and the Opening Party are November 8th, and racing November 9th through 11th, with an entry fee of only US$100. Thanks to generous local sponsors, the regatta

Be one of the lucky winners to be weighed on the club’s Famous Cruzan Rum Scales! The scales date back 20 years and were originally built for Mumm’s Champagne — the weighing of a winning skipper is a Mumm’s tradition. In 1992, Peter Holmberg was the first winning skipper to get his weight in Champagne. Today, winning skippers are weighed in Cruzan Rum. Register now! For more information see ad on page 12.

Mount Gay Rum have been warmly welcomed on board as Silver Sponsors, with Island Water World, Cap Maison, Body Holiday, Johnson’s Hardware and Food Express as Bronze Sponsors. The St. Lucia Yacht Club is extremely grateful to all sponsors and others who are donating a variety of prizes to support this inaugural regatta. A Catamaran Class has now been added to those of Racing Yachts, Cruising Yachts, and the combined J/24 and Surprise Class Yachts. All races will start and finish in Rodney Bay with plenty of room for spectators. The main event of the J/24 and Surprise Class will comprise three sets of three 30-minute races over the two days, with three longer races for each of the Racing Class monohulls, Cruising Class monohulls and Cruising Class catamarans. There will be plenty of fantastic social activities over the weekend, both at the Yacht Club and the Marina, including a welcome party and the formal prizegiving. Watch this space next month! For more information see ad on page 13.

OCTOBER 2012

including domino, softball and youth football (soccer) tournaments, bicycle tours, walks, runs, a swim to Klein Bonaire, a flag parade and a boat parade, barbecues and more. The waterfront road through town is closed and stands sell arts and crafts, food and drink. The regatta has grown into such an island tradition that the schools even close for the whole week. All the extras aside, Bonaire takes the sailing seriously, with categories for model micro-boats, Optimists, Sunfish, beach cats, windsurfers and traditional fishing boats, plus racing, cruising and open yacht classes. The week is finished off with the Budget Marine Shipto-Shore Boat party where boats raft up along the shore and enjoy live bands on shore. The Bonaire Regatta is like no other — come and see for yourself! For more information visit: www.bonaireregatta.org.

committee has pulled out all stops to draw sailors from throughout the Caribbean and the upper 48 States. You can expect great racing along St. Croix’s north shore and Buck Island Channel, free (limited) dock space, race courses for all classes, an experienced Race Committee, live entertainment, trophies for all classes PLUS the winning skipper’s weight in rum for any class with seven or more entrants, shuttle service, Customs clearance on site and expedited Immigration services for down islands, affordable accommodations ($50-a-night condos), taxi and shuttle service from the St. Croix Yacht Club, and free airport transfers (advance notice please!).

*5($7 5$&,1* $/21* 7+( 6287+ &2$67 2) *5(1$'$ 3/86 0$7&+ 5$&,1*

WWW.SOUTHGRENADAREGATTA.COM Ä‚Ć?ĞĚ Ä‚Ćš >Äž WĹšÄ‚ĆŒÄž ůĞƾ DÄ‚ĆŒĹ?ŜĂ͕ Ä‚ĹŻĹ?Ç€Ĺ?Ĺ?ŜLJ ĂLJ dĞů͗ нϭ ϰϳϯ Ď°Ď°Ď° ĎŽĎ°ĎŹĎŹ

—Continued from previous page The Al Rapier trophy joins other commemorative perpetual trophies awarded to record-breaking yachts competing in the 77th Anniversary Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race: The Errol Barrow Classic Yacht BIM MEDIA GROUP, BARBADOS

ed yacht; The Andrew Burke Single Handed Trophy, presented to a record-breaking single-handed yacht; The Mount Gay Rum Caribbean Challenge Shield, presented to the fastest regional yacht and The Coca Cola Cup, presented to the fastest Barbadian yacht. And — any yacht breaking an existing Round Barbados Record on January 21st will win the skipper’s weight in Mount Gay Rum Extra Old. For more information visit www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. Grenada Sailing Festival Work Boat Regatta and New Grenada Sailing Week 2013 Once again Grenada will see a mix of great racing

through 3rd, providing spectacular competitive racing in wooden, sprit-rigged boats among the island’s traditional fishing communities of Grand Mal, Gouyave, Sauteurs, Woburn and sister islands Carriacou and Petite Martinique. The event regularly attracts an audience of several thousand over the weekend — locals and visitors alike. The competitive keelboat regatta, now called Grenada Sailing Week, will be held February 1st through 5th, with race courses making the most of the great sailing conditions around the western and southern coasts of Grenada. The Skippers’ Briefing will be on January 31st, with race days on the Friday (February 1st), Saturday, Monday and Tuesday, with Lay Day Sunday, February 3rd. The Grenada Sailing Festival Board fully endorses the new Grenada Sailing Week initiative and is confident that Grenada’s unique blend of international and traditional events will remain an important part of the regional sailing calendar. For more information on the Grenada Sailing Festival Work Boat Regatta visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com. The website www.grenadasailingweek.com will be established shortly as will a Facebook page: Grenada Sailing Week. Meanwhile, for more information on Grenada Sailing Week contact info@grenadasailingweek.com.

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 14

New Board for New Grenada Sailing Week On September 10th, out of an action group of more than 25 members of the Grenada sailing community, a new board was elected to organize and manage the new Grenada Sailing Week. —Continued on next page

Silver Bullet, a custom Supercat 30 owned by Bryn Palmer of Barbados, holds the current multihull record of 4 hours, 24 minutes, 27 seconds Trophy, presented to a record-breaking classic yacht; The Barbados Tourism Authority Superyacht Trophy, presented to a record-breaking monohull; The Mount Gay Rum Multihull Trophy, presented to a record-breaking multihull; The Barbados Cruising Club Double Handed Trophy, presented to a record-breaking double-hand-

Antigua: Marine Power Svcs: 268-460-1850 Seagull Yacht Svcs: 268-460-3049 Bequia: Caribbean Diesel: 784-457-3114 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center: 767-448-2705 Grenada: Grenada Marine: 473-443-1667 Enza Marine: 473-439-2049 Martinique: Inboard Diesel Svcs: 596-596-787-196 St. Croix: St. Croix Marine: 340-773-0289 St. John: Coral Bay Marine: 340-776-6665 St. Lucia: Martinek: 758-450-0552 St. Maarten: Electec: 599-544-2051 St. Thomas: All Points Marine: 340-775-9912 Trinidad & Tobago: Engine Tech Co. Ltd: 868-667-7158 Dockyard Electrics: 868-634-4272 Tortola: Cay Electronics: 284-494-2400 Marine Maintenance Svcs: 284-494-3494 Parts & Power: 284-494-2830

for an international keelboat fleet, and the must-see experience of traditional local work boat racing. Although in 2013 the work boat and yacht regattas are being managed separately, they will both occur during the first week of February. The Grenada Sailing Festival Board has decided to concentrate its manpower and resources on the traditional Work Boat Regatta, to make it an even bigger part of Grenada’s Independence celebrations, profiling it as a National Sailing and Cultural Event. The 20th Grenada Sailing Festival Work Boat Regatta will be staged on Grand Anse Beach from February 1st

Left to right: Mike Bingley, Richard Szyjan, Marc DeCaul, Patrick Brathwaite, Nicholas George

A Family of Generators with Relatives throughout the Caribbean

Reliability. Durability. Simplicity. www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com C001

—Continued from previous page The board of five includes Chairman Marc DeCaul, racer and sailmaker Richard Szyjan, sportsman and businessman Patrick Brathwaite, Grenada Sailing Association and the Marine and Yachting Association of Grenada member Nicholas George, and sailor and marine business owner Mike Bingley. Many more people from the marine industry are supporting this “lean but keen” board and the Grenada Sailing Week. Grenadian racers will once again “Sail de Spice” in 2013, challenging yachtsmen from the Caribbean and around the world to match their racing skills. Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta in Antigua From February 7th through 10th, 2013, the Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta will celebrate its 20th

one-designs. A pursuit race series will also be held for those who prefer individual starts to fleet starts. A poker run, along with the dinghy racing, will provide spectacular viewing opportunities. Sailing conditions outside Jolly Harbour on the west coast of Antigua are ideal — generally flat waters with great winds. There will be plenty of shoreside activities for sailors and non-sailors alike, with parties each evening featuring the beach, the marina docks and the shopping and dining facilities. Antigua is famous for its beach parties and this event’s finale is one not to be missed! Bring your own boat, charter a bareboat or fullyequipped racing charter boat, or secure a place on one of the many boats that charter individual spots. For more information visit www.jollyharbourregatta.com.

anniversary by significantly increasing the scope of this popular Antigua event. The beginning of the week that encompasses Valentine’s Day is one of the last time slots available for a major regatta in the Caribbean Sailing Association’s racing calendar. The Foundation Partners of this expanded sailing festival include Caribbean Developments (Antigua) Ltd., Budget Marine, Jolly Harbour Marina, Jolly Harbour Yacht Club, Jolly Harbour Merchants’ Association and Jolly Harbour Homeowners’ Association. A new company will be formed to contract with Mainstay Caribbean, an event marketing and management company based in Antigua, to deliver the event, including three days of professionally managed fun racing for boats with a maximum ten-foot draft. Classes will be available for CSA-rated boats, bareboats, Carriacou sloops, Lasers, Dragons and other JODY SALLONS-DAY

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Dinghy Concert to Open South Grenada Regatta 2013 The South Grenada Regatta committee is all set for their fifth annual regatta, to be held February 21st through 24th, 2013. To celebrate the start of the SGR there will be a “dinghy concert” on February 20th, followed by the skippers’ briefing the following evening. —Continued on page 45

OCTOBER 2012

‘A Full Workout’: RORC Caribbean 600 The fifth edition of the RORC Caribbean 600, the Caribbean’s only offshore distance race (600 miles), will start in Antigua on February 18th, 2013. The majority of the RORC Caribbean 600 fleet will be made up of five separate IRC Classes. Peter Harrison’s magnificent 114-foot ketch, Sojana, will be returning to take part. Sojana’s Boat Captain, Marc Fitzgerald says, “It is a rare occasion when we can unleash the full power of Sojana. Although it is never possible to guarantee wind, it is highly likely that the Caribbean 600 will deliver big breeze, big seas and fantastic sailing conditions, but the 600 is not just a sleigh ride. There are many tactical decisions to be made and the course has so many twists and turns that it is a full workout for the crew. If someone was to write a case study of the strategies for this race, it would run to many pages.” The monohull course record of 40 hours 20 minutes and 2 seconds was set by George David’s Rambler 100 in 2011. John Burnie’s ORMA 60, Region Guadeloupe, set the multihull course record of 40 hours 11 minutes and 5 seconds in 2009, and Burnie will be back to defend that record in 2013. For more information visit www.caribbean600.rorc.org.

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On other visits, when we had friends from the UK staying with us, we tried phoning for the free transfer advertised by the gardens, but even with the help of the owner of Le Pelican, an internet café and craft shop in Deshaies, and despite promising to by Christine Gooch come and fetch us, they never materialised. So we either walked there, or took a taxi from the village. Guadeloupe is a green volcanic island, although not so dramatic as Dominica or St Vincent; the land is more cultivated, there are more villages and it almost feels as though a part of mainland France has been transported intact to the Caribbean. The Carib name for Guadeloupe is Karukera which means “Island of Pretty Waters”. The main industries are tourism and sugar cane, which is made into agricole rum — apparently much prized in mainland France but its distinctive strong taste is not to everyone’s liking. Deshaies You can check in and out of Guadeloupe at Le Pelican in the village of Deshaies at the top of the island, a good place to break the trip between Antigua and Dominica. Anse a la Barque on the island’s west coast is crowded with local boats, but if conditions are right it’s worth a stop The owner is very friendly and helpful, and has some lovely souvenirs in his walking through a tropical forest but the plants are A Jardin of Earthly Delights shop, many of them locally made. Clearance procegrouped into swathes of colour and contrasting shapes. Where in the Leeward Islands can you see beautiful dures in Guadeloupe are very quick and easy: you On a clear day there are views across to Montserrat. tropical flowers, parrots, flamingos and hummingbirds enter the information onto a computer and for a fee of The entry fee of 14 euros each seemed expensive, but all in one place? The Jardin Botanique in Deshaies, in around a couple of euros it is sent off to Customs and once we had been round the gardens we felt it was the northwest of Guadeloupe, is an amazing botanical Immigration. We were warned to make sure we did worth the money, especially if you are a keen gardener garden. After anchoring our cat, Sweet Sensation, in clear in, as the authorities are quick to levy heavy fines back home. this pleasant harbour, one Sunday morning my huson yachties who don’t bother. We saw the Customs You can go inside a big wire enclosure where cheeky band, Kevin, and I walked up the steep hill from the launch speeding up and down the coast several times, green and red lorikeets fly around your head or perch village and spent two or three hours wandering among so they are out there checking up. on your arm while you feed them. Farther on, blue and the tropical trees and plants. We didn’t have any problems in the anchorage, but yellow parrots perch outside cute little wooden houses. The first thing you come to is a large pond with water other cruising friends told us a heavy westerly swell can One of the parrots took a liking to a French tourist lilies and huge koi carp. You can buy bags of food to come up unexpectedly, making the anchorage very who was talking to it. When the lady walked away the feed the fish, who scramble over each other and practiuncomfortable, if not untenable, and landing at the parrot followed, sidling along the top of the fence cally jump out of the water to get at the food. A path newly restored jetty on the waterfront dangerously tricky. around its enclosure and looking very crestfallen when winds through beautiful groups of plants and trees, You can still take your dinghy up the little canal beside the fence ran out and it could no longer follow her. with little information plaques next to them. The leafthe fishing boat harbour and leave it by La Note Bleu Bright pink flamingos balanced on one leg while foraglet advertising the gardens promises “Nature mastered restaurant, although the restaurant has closed down. ing with their beaks in a small pond, and tiny humin all her splendour” and it’s a very good way to —Continued on next page mingbirds hovered at brightly coloured flowers. describe it: the garden’s layout gives the impression of

Getting to Know Guadeloupe TI

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—Continued from previous page Deshaies appears to have many French holiday homes. The two parallel streets have lots of souvenir shops and small restaurants and several charming old wooden buildings. Our favourite was La Kaz restaurant with a mass of purple bougainvillea spilling down from the roof and over its front. We thought the evening set menu was good value (for the French islands), but watch out for Saturday evenings when the price goes up, as there is live music. There are two or three supermarkets, and a small fishing harbour in a corner of the bay, protected by a stone wall. The supermarkets are fine for topping up stores but for a really big shop we found Le Marin and Fort de France in Martinique easier and better value. Our cruising guide was only a couple of years old, but a sign of the times was that we found several shops and restaurants had

The Saintes The Saintes, a group of half a dozen small islands, lie six miles south of mainland Guadeloupe. Although they are only six miles away, we found the passage from Vieux Fort was often hard on the wind and against the swell, with passing rain squalls; the only time we managed to sail there, as opposed to motoring, was when a low swell meant we could motor up the south coast of Guadeloupe to get a good slant across and we managed to sail right up to Pain du Sucre anchorage. On the way across we could see Marie Galante clearly, a low pancake-shaped island about 12 miles east-northeast of The Saintes. We really wanted to go there, but being farther to windward it is even harder to get to; what you really need would be a northeast wind and swell on route from Antigua, changing to east as soon as you anchor otherwise the one anchorage would be untenable — but I think that is highly improbable outside of the hurricane season! Pain du Sucre anchorage is named after a large dome-shaped rock with narrow vertical ridges that look like the marks made on a muffin by the paper case it is baked in, and topped by scrubby bushes resembling the sugar icing. The clear water was a lovely cobalt blue in the deeper patches, turquoise and ultramarine in the lighter ones. In one corner of the bay are the coral pink buildings of the Hotel Bois Joli and its sandy beach; in the other is another smaller sandy beach backed by palm trees. —Continued on next page

Left: Chris and Kevin aboard Sweet Sensation

closed or changed hands since it was written, including the bakery — which we never did find, although the small supermarkets had fresh bread daily. You can hire a car from Deshaies and explore the part of the island called Grande Terre. In the Lee of Guadeloupe We found that sailing in the lee of Guadeloupe the wind was generally light and fluky, with gusts racing down from the higher ground. We sailed up and down

managed an afternoon spent snorkelling off the rocky headlands at the entrance to the bay and an overnight stop. The bay is easy to spot as there is a distinctive navigation light on the northern headland and another clearly marked “Anse a la Barque” in large letters at the head of the bay. We also spent a night anchored off Basse Terre, the capital of Guadeloupe. We thought it might be somewhere to stock up on supermarket shopping, rather than beating to windward to get to Le Marin on Martinique, but the anchorage was exposed and it was a very long walk along the seafront promenade to the town. We dinghied into the municipal marina but it was run down, had a rather alarming unlit wreck in the entrance channel, and there were scant facilities for visiting yachts. We only managed to find the harbour master because he was guiding another visiting yacht into a berth. He suggested we could come alongside the same quay to take on water, but having seen the jagged surface of the wall and the fact that the other yacht ran aground trying to get into the berth they had been allocated, we decided against this. Off Vieux Fort at the southwestern tip of Guadeloupe we passed a couple of local yoles racing. They are open

UPCOMING CARIBBEAN SAILINGS OCTOBER, 2012: PORT EVERGLADES Î NEWPORT Î ST. THOMAS Î PALMA DE MALLORCA NOVEMBER, 2012: MARTINIQUE Î GENOA DECEMBER, 2012: MARTINIQUE Î PORT EVERGLADES Î GOLFITO Î BRISBANE Î AUCKLAND

Photo by Onne van der Wal

MARCH, 2013: MARTINIQUE Î GENOA

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Above: Another ti punch, please, barman!

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

boats with a jib and a square mainsail supported by a sprit running diagonally from the bottom of the mast to the aft top corner of the sail. We also saw a huge turtle swimming on the surface so close to us that we could see the barnacles on the back of its shell.

OCTOBER 2012

the west coast of Guadeloupe a few times and most times the wind turned westerly for a couple of miles as we approached Anse a la Barque, a small bay crowded with local fishing boats and a couple of yachts on moorings. On one occasion we were lucky though and

—Continued from previous page Pain du Sucre is one of the few places in The Saintes you can anchor; much of the area is a Marine Reserve and mooring buoys have been put down in

Bonbon. Several of the houses were painted in calming pastel colours and some had gingerbread fretwork, including one with a beautiful design of hummingbirds and flowers.

Another day we strolled along the waterfront. Local sailing yoles and fishing boats were drawn up on the beach and on the steps of one of the houses we passed a very fed-up looking dog. He was just like the dog on the old HMV record labels sitting beside an old fashioned gramophone, except that his shoulders were hunched and he hung his head. We imagined he was thinking, “Another day in Paradise — I’m so bored. More tourists and they all want to pat me on the head — thump, thump, thump.” Further along we found a small “Yacht Club” overlooking a beach where we could land the dinghy. We climbed to the ruined fort on a small headland overlooking the anchorage, where goats were grazing and fishermen were setting their nets in the next bay. Friends from the UK came out to visit us, and Janice and I strolled round to the Yacht Club one afternoon, pausing to browse in the souvenir shops and walk over to the windward beach on route. We had arranged to meet Kevin and Colin at the Yacht Club and at 1700 they dinghied ashore. The Yacht Club looked worryingly closed, but Kevin walked up the beach and rang the bell hanging by the front gate, whereupon the barman appeared from the house next door. The Yacht Club bar was painted bright orange, yellow and blue and an old Seagull outboard engine (dear to many an English old salt’s heart) was nailed above it. A large cartoon mural of Captain Jack Sparrow, assorted hammocks and big squashy sofas under an awning on the sand completed the decoration, which we admired while sipping the local ti punch. All in all we enjoyed the time we spent in Guadeloupe. Next year we hope to return and make the passage through the Riviere Salée in the middle of the island.

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Kevin and Chris Gooch are sailing the Caribbean in their 38-foot Prout catamaran Sweet Sensation. Left: Flamingos grace the botanical gardens at Deshaies Below: Montserrat in the distance — temptation for another voyage most of the anchorages. We picked up a buoy off the picturesque little town of Bourg des Saintes, where you can check into or out of Guadeloupe. Ashore there are red-roofed buildings in the French style with wooden shutters and French doors, a house in a cliff shaped like the bow of a ship, lots of souvenir shops and restaurants. Several ferries a day bring hordes of day-trippers from the Guadeloupe mainland, making the streets busy between 0900 and 1700 hours. Before they arrive and once they have left, most of the shops and restaurants are closed, except for the small supermarkets where the locals come to do their shopping in peace. Our cruising guide said we should check in/out at the Mairie, but in fact this is no longer the case and you have to go to an internet café in the main pedestrian street. You can hire scooters to explore Terre d’en Bas, but Kevin and I did some exploring on foot, walking over a low hill to a beach on the windward side of the island, where surf rolled onto the sand. There were sandstone headlands on either end of the long beach and a tantalising view of Marie Galante. We passed lots of French holiday homes and rooms/small apartments to rent in local homes; my favourite name was Chez Mme

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OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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ALL ASHORE…

TOURING IN TRINIDAD — FOR FREE!

From the friendly fun of Macqueripe Beach (above) to the serenity of the Bamboo Cathedral (below), you can experience many facets of Trinidad in a day trip

OCTOBER 2012

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by Petra and Jan Willem Versol

AS

the hurricane season comes to an end, the yacht scene in Chaguaramas returns to life. We love the hustle and bustle in the yards and watching everybody’s excitement about the sailing season that is about to start. All those sailors flying into Trinidad from all over the world to their yachts that have been laid up in one of the boatyards, and getting them ready to sail again. Catching up with old friends, making new friends, enjoying the events ashore. And most importantly: ticking off each item on seemingly-endless to-do lists, from major repairs to odd jobs such as cleaning the decks and interior, winches, hull and bottom, and, of course, stocking up. As we are quite able to stand Trinidad’s tropical heat (we are Dutch but actually live in Suriname, which is even closer to the equator) we always start enthusiastically and don’t take much time off from the hard work. But after a week, when Witte Raaf is practically spick and span again, we are fed up with the dusty boatyard and ready to see something else. And because provisioning is one of the essential preparations before one can sail, we combine business with pleasure, rent a car and are on our way. Get ‘gas mileage’ out of your rental car When we rented a car last February, Econocar at CrewsInn was closed while their head office in town rented cars only for a minimum of two days. A friend of ours suggested “Crackajack”, Stuart Stevenson, who rents excellent cars for the same price (TT$200 per day). Stuart keeps his boat at IMS. He is an easy-going Australian fellow and his service includes car delivery to your boat and pick-up — no worries, mate! On top of that you can arrange to drop off at the airport for TT$100 more (interesting, when a taxi charges at least TT$250). Tel. (868) 739-6449, www.crackajackrentals.com. Usually our first goal is to buy cooking gas. Of course, you can have your empty gas bottles filled through Powerboats or Peake’s, but while on your way why not save money and do it yourself? Drive past Port of Spain and if necessary stop at Baghwansingh’s. At this enormous department store you can buy literally everything and at low prices: domestic articles, tools (from sandpaper and brushes to generators), electrical stuff, etcetera. Once past Port of Spain, continue on the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway in an easterly direction until you see a big NP sign on your right. (We got our directions from a friend with extensive local knowledge, and although we suppose you could take a right turn here, we never dared to chance it as we consider Trini traffic quite hazardous. The below-mentioned directions from our friend lead to the desired spot.) —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page Once you see the NP sign, you’re about to arrive at a big Y-junction. Choose the left lane and take the roundabout for three quarters. Then exit onto the fly-over, which takes you to the other side of the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway. Choose the left lane and drive slowly as you don’t want to miss the small potholed dirt road on your left just before NP, marked with a sign saying WASA. This road heads into some kind of undeveloped terrain looking like a garbage dump, but is actually leading to the NP gas company. Continue to the NatPet gate. By the way, make sure you are “properly” dressed: according to the sign at the gate, bermudas, sleeveless shirts (men) and sandals are not allowed, However, in Trinidad you get the most unlikely things done as long as your attitude is one of extreme politeness, so although we were fully “European” dressed in shorts and tops, the guards allowed us on the premises. We handed over our two empty ten-pound gas bottles (standard US, such as they sell at Budget Marine with type 1 valves) and 20 minutes later both were filled at TT$32.50, which is 20 percent of the price you pay in Chaguaramas. Opening hours: Monday to Friday 8:00AM to 3:30PM. (Note: They can’t handle exotic valves; for those you will have to go to San Fernando.) Tour the countryside Leaving NP you will find yourselves on the highway back to Port of Spain. But with the gas job done, wouldn’t it be a great idea to see something of the countryside while you’re at it? Move over to the right lane as soon as you can, and do a U-turn at the traffic lights (you would presume this is not allowed but it actually is). Then continue east in the direction of Arima via the Eastern Main Road. Have a drink and a snack in one of the many villages you pass and in Arima, take a left turn onto the long and winding Arima-Blanchisseuse Road. Enjoy the lush

OCTOBER 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

A stop at laid-back Maracas Beach will help dissipate any lingering boatyard blues

Petra and Jan Willem Versol are a Dutch couple who live in Suriname and keep their 40-foot ketch, Witte Raaf, in Trinidad during the hurricane season. They have been cruising the Caribbean for six years and consider the southeastern Caribbean — from Trinidad up to Dominica — their new home waters.

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scenery, but note that this road is leading into a forest. This means that there are few spots for pit stops so be sure you have enough petrol (and something in your stomach, as lunch will have to wait until you arrive in Maracas well past noon). As you drive into this north-Trinidadian jungle, a more stunning landscape opens up after every curve and you may be tempted to pay a quick visit to the Asa Wright Nature Centre on the way. Just past Asa Wright the road deteriorates a bit, but nothing to scare you; the road to the NP gas plant is worse. Once out of the forest you have arrived in Blanchisseuse on the north coast. Continue to Maracas Bay, where you find the biggest, busiest and most splendid beach on Trinidad’s north coast. As bake ’n shark is Maracas’ specialty, the beach is dotted with booths where you can have your late but unforgettable lunch. We find Richard’s has the best dishes, but offers a lesser view as it is not directly located on the beach. While enjoying your lunch, soak up the laid-back atmosphere on the beach, and who knows, locals may invite you for a game of cricket or basketball on the sand. Time to stock up Continue on the same road and admire the numerous splendid bay views and lovely, quiet beaches. Since you won’t have time to visit them all, you will have to make a choice. Las Cuevas is a good one as it is quite pretty. Follow the road to Petit Valley and return to the Western Main Road to the big Hi-Lo supermarket at West Mall, as it is now shopping time. Be sure to have brought a cooler, as we haven’t finished our list with recommendations for sightseeing yet! End the day in Macqueripe Close to Chaguaramas is another stupendous bay and beach: Macqueripe. Normally, after a ten-minute drive from the boatyards past TTSA, the army base, museum and conference centre, you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your left. However, in this case you are coming from the direction of Port of Spain. You will find the junction where the Western Main Road becomes a dual carriageway for a couple of hundred yards, and this is where you take the Macqueripe Post Road on your right. It leads through some pretty countryside, and if you want to enjoy some peace and quiet, you should definitely pull onto the right shoulder at the gate to Chaguaramas National Park, and go for a stroll into the famous Bamboo Cathedral. Bring your camera. At the end of the road to Macqueripe, there are some of the old US military base buildings from WWII. Go down the steps from the parking lot to a small rocky beach to wash off the sweat of the day with a dip in the seawater. Refreshing! Macqueripe Beach is a pleasant place to hang around for a bit. We went there twice and both times it was bustling with locals who were limin’ and swimmin’ (that is, merely floating and cooling down in the sea). The biggest profit of the day You already earned back more than half the costs of your rental car by saving money on the cooking gas, but now the time has come to make the best deal of the day. When we do this tour we bring as many empty diesel jerrycans as we can, and at the end of the day head for a service station along the side of the road. Last time we paid only TT$165 for 90 liters of diesel, which is actually a quarter of the international price that yachts have to pay in the bay. So here’s the biggest profit of the day — and you have enjoyed your rental car free of charge!

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TURTLE TRIP IN TRINIDAD

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

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by Ben Farnham

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The first time I ever encountered a wild sea turtle was in 2010 while diving near Kho Phi Phi Don, Phuket, Thailand. Being feet away from such a magnificent creature had made a vivid impression, so while visiting Trinidad in May, I jumped at the opportunity to join Jesse James of Members Only Maxi Taxi Service and take a trip to Matura on the eastern part of Trinidad for the magical experience of seeing leatherback turtles laying their eggs. The moment I was picked up in Chaguaramas by Jesse that evening, I knew I was in good hands. His impressive knowledge of the local area made the long drive interesting and enjoyable. Having sampled some of the local cuisine throughout my stay, Jesse was keen to expand my experience that little bit further and stopped en-route for delights such as chicken feet soup, chicken gizzards and the famous barbecued pig tail. The chicken feet had a lovely flavour, however, the texture was something I was unaccustomed to and I am unsure whether I will be adding it to my everyday diet. Chicken gizzards and the barbecued pig tails, however, were much more to my liking and the flavour was plentiful and the texture a little easier to get my teeth into. The main meal came a little later in the form of Chinese food at a restaurant in Valencia where we had a hearty meal. Once that had been demolished it was on to Matura. The information that was passed on throughout the tour was excellent:

Above: The author posing with turtle. Only touch a sea turtle and use lights when she is in her egg-laying trance Right: Laying eggs. She’ll cover them with sand and then disguise the spot Female leatherback turtles typically lay eggs every three years and return to the same beach they hatched from after swimming from as far north as Canada. Their ability to swim in such contrasting waters is through their capacity to regulate their body temperature through metabolic processes. The turtles make their way onto the beach five to seven times to lay their eggs, which is a nocturnal process that takes up to two and a half hours to complete. The procedure consists of digging a three-foot hole, laying 80 to 120 eggs, filling the nest and compacting the hole for protection, and finally disturbing a large area of sand around the nest, making it hard for predators to detect. Not many leatherback turtles ever make it to adulthood and it is estimated that only one of the eggs laid by the female will reach maturity. Predators come in the form of birds, reptiles, fish and their main enemy, humans, through fishing nets and lines, getting hit by boats and eating waste plastic bags having been confused with their staple diet of jellyfish. Leatherback turtles dive to escape predators and have been recorded up to 4,200 feet deep, deeper than any other turtle, and they can stay under water for an incredible 85 minutes. The ability to do this comes from their shell’s flexibility and shape that is similar to the hull of a motorboat, giving better hydrodynamics. A mature leatherback turtle on average grows to six feet in length and can swim at speeds averaging six miles an hour. Leatherbacks are the largest turtles in the world often weighing 1,500 pounds. The very largest turtles weigh as much as 2,000 pounds. My first sighting of a turtle was literally 30 seconds after walking on to the beach. A large female was already in the process of laying her eggs. I was shocked at the size she had grown to and even more surprised when told she was of average size. We left her, only having to walk a further couple of hundred metres down the five-mile beach to find another who was just beginning to dig her own hole. The full moon made for excellent viewing and red lights were not needed to help see her progress in digging the hole. After patiently waiting for over half an hour for the turtle to be satisfied, she started laying, giving us the fantastic opportunity of allowing lights to shine and photography of what was — for me, no doubt — a once in a lifetime opportunity. Once the laying process finished, we were no longer able to take pictures and watched the turtle fill the hole and then start to disrupt the sand around. We were making too much noise for her liking and we could see she was unhappy with us, so we all calmed down and allowed the turtle to complete the processes and make her way slowly back to the sea. After watching the long, beautiful process we walked back along the beach to be greeted by four hatchlings that had been recovered earlier that day. The young have to climb the three feet up to the surface and then make their way in to the sea. It is important that they are not assisted in their endeavour, as their ability to make their way to the sea on their own helps them memorise and return to the same nesting site in years to come. The young are then able to swim for three days without stopping to feed. Once we had had our fill of “baby” pictures, it was time to get back on the bus for the ride back to Chaguaramas. This was a remarkable experience and a night that I will remember for many years to come. Hard to imagine that one day this turtle could weigh close to a ton Go turtle watching with a recommended local conservation group or guide: they will best know how to spot the turtles and prevent stress to them once found. Only take photos and use flashlights during the period the turtle is actually in her egg-laying “trance”. See more good tips at www.traveldudes.org/travel-tips/guidelines-viewing-sea-turtles/9470.

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ALL PHOTOS STEVE JOST / WWW.STEVEJOSTPHOTOGRAPHY.COM

The Maya of Eternal Time

Once in the Neighborhood You will soon be headed across Amatique Bay toward Livingston, Guatemala. For vessels with a draft of less than seven feet, there should be no problem. If you are drawing more than seven feet, you may have to enlist the help of a small powerboat that will attach a line to your mast and guide you over the soft sand.

Far from the sea, a hurricane haven

and Guatemala’s Rio Dulce

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by Daphne Becker Tortugal marina is one of many small, yacht-friendly facilities on the river

S

pectacularly beautiful, the Sweet River has escaped, for mysterious and possibly quite beneficial reasons, much commercial development, remaining a little-known cruising area in the Caribbean. Very well located and safe from hurricanes, Rio Dulce and its entrance port of Livingston lie almost equidistant between Honduras’ Bay Islands and Belize’s Reef and islands through which one can quickly navigate to the famed Yucatan of Mexico. Rio Dulce is sited directly on the ancient path of the Maya, known as La Ruta Maya, The Mayan Route. The Maya of Eternal Time and What’s Happening Now Those of you who have heard Drunvalo Melchizedek repeat what Don Cirilio and other Guatemalan spiritual guides have to say regarding this year of 2012 already know that The Maya believe they have been present on this planet for at least five 52,000year cycles. We are now at the end of the most recent cycle. If you are interested in an experience that goes beyond the normal cruising environment, if you happen to be open to learning about one of the most powerful yet humble cultures and their wisdom: well, you cannot go wrong if you decide to come to Rio Dulce, to Guatemala. Besides, it is sweet water and your boat will love it. You will also appreciate the prices, the food, and the people. Slip fees are incredibly low. It is easy to find range fed beef and chicken, organic fruit and vegetables that actually have flavor. You just need to be something of an adventurer and get yourself going. Enter into the unknown. If you do decide to come, please take the time to read a little of Guatemala’s history. Learn some Spanish as well.

Don’t come into the country terrified or be put off because you have heard rumors that Guatemala is dangerous (the best places I have been were described in this way) or that it is impossible to cross the bar into Rio Dulce. Those stories are not true.

The Rio offers opportunities for comfortable camaraderie

You will begin calling “Capitan del Puerto” followed by your vessel’s name on VHF channel 68. If you need help crossing the bar, this is the time you would ask for help: “Necessita ayuda para cruzar”. A small powerboat waiting nearby will be happy to hear this news and very willing to help. It is not a complicated procedure (see photo on page 26) and should not cost more than US$50 to $75.00. Once anchored and with your Q flag up, very friendly Customs and Immigration officials will lancha over to your vessel to greet you and assist in processing visa and navigation permits (initially three months, then 12 months). You will be given permission to dinghy into town (Livingston) to pick up your completed permits and to have your passports stamped. Take the first road to your immediate left after passing the basketball court visible from the main dock/road into town. You will see a yellow building, that is where you will find Raul Veliz, who speaks English and who will handle your boat’s visa. Across the street from Raul, check out the very nice handicraft shop just behind and to the side of Buga Mama, a restaurant and its companion handicraft store which I like to support as they are part of the project of Ac Tenamit, a cooperative of the Kek’chi. In Livingston the everindustrious Maya are the ones primarily involved in commerce. You will see a good many restaurants and tiny shops, nothing too commercial, as you begin to walk up the hill to have your passport stamped at Immigration. The little community of Livingston is a combination of Maya and Garifuna folk, a culture removed from the Eastern Caribbean island of St. Vincent. Garifuna people are well known for their music and one day a year is the Garifuna Festival, well worth attending. —Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page Livingston is not the most peaceful place to spend the night. I’d advise you to be on your way upriver into and through the great (but not long) Canyon of the Rio Dulce. The Canyon of the Rio Dulce surely must be one of the beautiful places on earth — one of those

notable marina in the same bay, located on the western curve, is Mar Marine (restaurant). To starboard you will see the slightly set back from view village of Fronteras, Rio Dulce, and Bruno’s (hotel, restaurant and marina). Directly across that bay are Tijax (hotel, restaurant, marina) and a few other small

—Continued on next page A Mayan fisherman casts his net

Below: Yachts motoring up the ‘Sweet River’

PAGE 25

marinas. Straight ahead are the bedraggled remains of Bird Island and the magnificent span of the bridge crossing the Rio Dulce. If you cross under that bridge you will be upriver from the village and the more commercial parts of Rio Dulce. Under the bridge, about a half-mile ahead at one o’clock, lies Tortugal (restaurant, hotel, marina). Across the way from Tortugal is Capt. John’s Marina. Directly behind the bank of trees where Captain John’s is located is Joya del Rio. The entrance to Joya del Rio is through the small cut just beyond Captain John’s. Marina prices vary depending on services. Most are in the range of US$150 (for no service) to $300 (for full service) a month. Multihull rates are a bit higher. Potable water is usually included. Castillo San Felipe and Lake Izabal Straight ahead you will

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CARIBBEAN COMPASS

rare places which evoke the primeval: familiar yet unknown, time before time, lush green water, limestone cliffs, lianas, occasional native huts of interwoven cane and thatch, peacefulness, tranquility. This location of the first Tarzan movie ever filmed leads into a large lake called the Golfete where you will find a good place in one of the bays to port where you can anchor your first night of this new adventure. You have come about six miles from Livingston to the Golfete. It depends on how fast your boat goes, and the current will be against you, but it should not take more than two hours motoring. As you enter into the Golfete there’s a little island ahead, the Island of the Tiger. You can go between that island and shore to port. There’s a little sign at the end of a bank of trees announcing the entrance into Texan Bay. Texan Bay is a nice anchoring spot in the area. You will meet other cruisers; there is a restaurant. After spending the night or nights at Texan Bay, after crossing the Golfete, the channel once again narrows and the more populated as well as commercial aspects of Rio Dulce begin to appear. Marinas To starboard and in order of appearance are Mango, Mario’s (restaurant) and Catamaran (hotel, restaurant). To port is Monkey Bay, with Ludwin’s small marina to the left of Monkey Bay. Past Monkey Bay and a little farther along (port side) you will see a larger bay containing Nana Juana (restaurant, hotel) to the far left. Next to Nana Juana is the marina and haul-out facility of Ram Marine. Another

OCTOBER 2012

see Castillo San Felipe outlined on the end of the peninsula on which it was built in the 15th century. This Spanish fort has been meticulously restored to its former glory in a very picturesque setting. To the right of San Felipe is the well-known haul-out facility of Abel’s. Lake Izabal is just around the corner and just ahead from Castillo San Felipe. This enormous freshwater lake is fed by multitudinous streams cascading from the highlands of Guatemala, most notably the Polochic. This abundant water keeps the Rio Dulce fresh and clean. In Lake Izabal at Finca Paraiso (you can anchor here; watch out for the rocks) and at Boqueron Canyon (not accessible by water) you can explore mysterious caves that stretch for unknown miles with intermittent waterfalls, cliffs and canyons, all underground. Or, take a sauna behind a hot waterfall. Buying Groceries In Fronteras, buying organically grown fruits, vegetables, free-range chickens and beef is on everyone’s list. Best days are Tuesday and Saturday. There is a fresh fish and shrimp market. Once or twice a week, Casa Guatemala comes by lancha to your boat or to your marina’s landing selling milk products, cheeses, pork chops, eggs and other good things. Medical Care is Wonderful and Inexpensive Medical and other basic living costs are a fraction of the cost in other countries. Doctors are well educated, usually in more than one country and hemisphere.

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PAGE 26 CARIBBEAN COMPASS OCTOBER 2012

—Continued from previous page Pharmaceutical availability is often months if not years ahead of USA approvals. There is wonderful medical, dental, plastic surgery, and every other kind of medical treatment available in Guatemala City. A Guatemalan physician using stem cell therapy to control various disorders including Parkinson’s disease has recently been recognized internationally. When I have had minor problems, I usually go to my favorite pharmacist right in Fronteras, Rio Dulce.

I could tell you about my personal experiences with security, which include leaving a backpack with everything (passports, money, credit cards) on the street in Fronteras (returned). Or a wallet that fell out of my lap into a ditch in Guatemala City (returned). Or, going up a hillside outside of Antigua with a friend with a fancy watch, fancy tummy pack (not returned). The Rio Dulce is a romantic kind of place and legends and stories abound. Virtually every horror story I have ever heard about Rio Dulce had extenuating cir-

With medical problems, life is much more simple here, or so I have experienced, than it would be in the States. I hope that I will be in Guatemala if I have any serious health issues! (I could go on and on about this topic.) An excellent internal specialist as well as endodontist practices in Morales, about 45 minutes away from Rio Dulce. There is a fairly new hospital in Morales, but I would probably choose to go to a Guatemala City facility. Services Available in Rio Dulce Rio Dulce offers fantastic services at reasonable prices. Air conditioning, canvas, diesel engine and generator repair, groceries, haul-out, hull repair, marinas, refrigeration, restaurants, sails, upholstery and carpeting…. Most folks here provide really good services just as they do everywhere, because they truly care and know what they are doing. If we are a potential consumer, we need to be and do the same. We need to knowledgeable, caring and appreciative. Don’t just pick up the radio and begin demanding that some unknown person come to your boat. Go to the shop and meet the person; let them see who you are. Take a look around; ask how things are going. You will be amazed at the difference in the way you will begin to feel and be treated. Security Matters I think the best deterrent to having security problems anywhere is to be genuine and to be humble. That includes respecting (not making fun of or disparaging) the country and its people. Remember that we are usually uninvited guests. Misunderstandings can often be traced back to lack of intuition and inability to discern. So, we should all work on our intuition and kindness while we’re here. The Rule in Guatemala is: Dress and act with respect. When coming and going to work, the native women of this great country sometimes wear dresses that one would wear to church (and then change into uniforms). Sometime I see visitors assuming territorial rights upon arrival without even saying hello or being in any way respectful. Even worse are inebriated or smoking folks. Most native folk are very clean and do not appreciate either. Sometimes we destroy any positive vision of who we are and open the possibility of negative occurrences.

Above: Photographer Steve Jost’s Viva crossing the bar at Livingston with the aid of a small powerboat

Below: Mayan vendors in the market at Fronteras

cumstances called “The Other Side of the Story”. The other side of the story is rarely if ever communicated. Why? Well, maybe that other side of the story would involve our responsibility, our part in the play. Rio Dulce is not any more dangerous than Trinidad and certainly not as dangerous as Venezuela. The last rash of stolen outboard motors took place about 2004. What every cruiser should know is: If you purchase a 15-horsepower Yamaha and keep it looking factory fresh, resellers everywhere will be grateful. There were two publicly unsolved (however, privately, there are folks who think they know why) homicides. One involved a person believed to be a DEA agent. The other involved intruders well acquainted with the boat and an owner with a machete. In 2004, owners of some of the major establishments in Rio Dulce, along with government assistance, took the magical steps of hiring the Navy to patrol, and the marina area of Rio Dulce has been patrolled ever since. Things have been pretty well in order and quiet ever since. In Summary Since returning from the cruising waters of the Caribbean I have lived an enchanted life in Rio Dulce, occasionally visiting the States to see my favorite relative, my mother. Rio Dulce IS La Ruta Maya, or The Mayan Route. Some of the marinas have information about the Maya and offer opportunities to experience contact with spiritual guides who are our respected and revered Elders. I invite you to come to Rio Dulce, to Guatemala. I cannot begin to tell you the joys of being here. It is the perfect place, at the perfect time. It is the time of the Maya and we are here as a part of their energy and space, and that of eternity. Daphne Becker is the owner of Tortugal marina on the Rio Dulce, www.tortugal.com.

DECK VIEW FROM TI KANOT BY CHRIS DOYLE

MOORINGS GONE WILD

Too Often a Dangerous Place in a Safe Harbor

OCTOBER 2012

Each year more and more rental moorings are laid in the Eastern Caribbean. Even as I write, thousands of Euros have been given to the Martinique town of Anse d’Arlet to put in mooring fields. In recent years we have seen moorings laid in Nevis, the Saintes, Sandy Island (Carriacou) and Grenada. In some cases you have no choice but to take a mooring. The ostensible reason for moorings is to protect marine life; in a few cases they may indeed help the environment. More often it is a way of officials exerting control over their waters and trying to raise revenue. Unfortunately too little consideration is given to the safety of the yachts using these moorings. You cannot automatically consider a Caribbean mooring to be safe. Many accidents have happened, sometimes involving serious damage. In the photo, my boat is safely at anchor. However, I picked up a nearby mooring so no one else would pick it up and swing into me. It came in very easily — and fell to bits as I raised it up. It looks like an unwired shackle was probably the culprit. This is not unusual; one day as I sailed into Bequia I passed three mooring buoys drifting out of Admiralty Bay. Luckily none had yachts on them. Laying and maintaining a mooring so that it holds a boat safely in severe weather conditions is not rocket science. I grew up on the shore of a huge estuary in the UK with hundreds of moorings. Every year they were pulled and inspected. I do not remember any incident of a mooring breaking or dragging. In fact, one once saved my boat. My first cruising boat was a heavy old Colin Archer; I was young, inexperienced, and anchored way ahead of the moorings. Conditions deteriorated to a Force 10 gale. By the time I noticed I was dragging, I was in the field of neatly moored yachts. My engine would not start, and seeing that the boat was 11 tons and the engine was four-horsepower I doubt it would have helped. Luckily my anchor snagged on a mooring line and slid up the mooring till I was neatly tethered with my anchor hooked around the bow of a small cruising boat. The properly laid and wellmaintained mooring held both of us till I could get a tow off.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

from a cruising yachtsman: “Despite a friend reporting he had been told that the Nevis moorings have been maintained I am sure they have not! I was there for two nights this last week and had to try five moorings before I found one that was safe. The thimbles at the top of the rope risers are rusted and significantly worn and when they break the metal just cuts through the spliced eye. Also one swivel was almost pulled through. I cannot comment on the bottom ends, as visibility was not good. A local yachtsman confirmed they are not maintained, despite spare equipment being stockpiled on the island. One yacht apparently went ‘walkabout’ around New Year time.” Parks, port authorities and municipalities have been empowered with the right to make us take moorings. We need legislation that makes them take responsibility and have insurance when they fail to maintain their equipment. Until that happens (don’t hold your breath) you need to be very careful. Even though moorings are “official” you cannot assume they will be safe. In many cases it is not hard to snorkel on them yourself: check to see that the ropes and chain are not worn and that the shackle ties are in place. This is hard to do when they are deep, as is the case in St. Lucia’s SMMA. Happily this is a park that does regular maintenance, though that came about because of some bad incidents in the early days. Among the least safe are unauthorized private moorings. These are common in the Grenadines outside the marine parks, where locals view moorings as a kind of personal parking meter to gather income. While a few mooring providers, like Sam Taxi and Charlie Tango in St. Vincent, seem to do a good job with maintenance, all too many do not appear to care about the safety of their mooring, and why should they? The person picking up the mooring usually does not get a receipt, and often does not even know who owns the mooring. These moorings are often poorly designed and constructed, as well as lacking maintenance. I would not trust any of them without a very close underwater inspection. In many cases not a single shackle has been wired, so they can fall apart. Where concrete blocks are used, lines can often catch on the block and chafe right through. The size of the block or the means of attachment is frequently inadequate. These private moorings have no legal status; there is even a warning about them in the Bequia Customs office. You can anchor right beside one if you like; the owner has absolutely no rights over the seabed and cannot make you move, though some are likely to act like jerks about it. If you take one of these private moorings and you end up too close to a boat that is already anchored, you must move; such moorings carry no rights. If you decide to take one of these moorings, it is imperative to dive on it. However, if you do that, and find it is no good, the man who took your money will probably be long gone. Moorings are rapidly proliferating in the Eastern Caribbean, and while some are good, too many are junk. No one should be allowed to put down a mooring, whether for optional hire or compulsory use, unless they can show that it is properly designed and being adequately maintained. We are far from that. Someone I know who laid moorings for a marine park recently inspected a couple of them at the behest of a charter company. They had not been maintained and there were deficiencies. Will your yacht give the last tug that breaks the mooring’s cable?

PAGE 27

Who are the people putting down moorings? What is it with Caribbean moorings that they so often drift away, sometimes taking someone’s dream boat with them? The answers I give to these questions refer to the Windward and Leeward Islands. So, which moorings can you trust? The answer to that question is “how much skin does the owner have in the game?” At the top end, marina owners, and somewhere like Mustique, have reputations to maintain, and feel at least somewhat vulnerable to lawsuits, so their moorings are properly maintained. Mustique has particular challenges with constant movement and mooring chain deteriorating really fast. Their moorings manager, Berris Little, is always out there, constantly renewing worn parts. Down in Grenada, Underwater Solutions, the commercial diving company, spends most of its working hours placing and maintaining moorings for places like Port Louis, Le Phare Bleu and Prickly Bay Marina. The same will be true of most marina-owned moorings in the Eastern Caribbean, so I have plenty of confidence to take one of the moorings inside the lagoon in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, or one of the marina moorings inside Marigot Bay. Charter companies also care, as their own boats use the moorings. If you rent a charter company mooring you can be pretty sure you will stay put. There is also the statistical factor — their boats are on the moorings 90 percent of the time, so the chances are if a mooring does give, it will be one of their boats that drift away. I feel confident renting one of these moorings, as long as the charter company is fairly large with some years of experience. In addition, one or two private companies and individuals maintain reliable moorings, including Sea Pony in Antigua. What about the fastest-growing sector, which includes marine park, port authority and town moorings? We are now entering more murky territory. Institutions such as the European Union funded many of these moorings, so they generally hire professionals to put down their moorings, which are then safe for the first year or so. Unfortunately, no Caribbean marine park or port authority manager has ever been fired because of a badly maintained mooring breaking, nor have they yet been successfully sued. As a consequence many do no maintenance till a mooring breaks, very likely with someone’s yacht on it. A beautiful classic yacht was completely destroyed some years ago in Statia when the mooring broke, and it was not even in a bad swell. I saw underwater photos of the remaining park moorings after the incident that showed a very poor level of maintenance. Port authority moorings may be no better. The following is from an e-mail I received

CARIBBEAN VOYAGING Tradition is an interesting phenomenon. For cruising sailors it might even be the Holy Grail. We do something a certain way and we continue to do it that way and rarely question, if ever, why it is so. When many cruising sailors say that they are “going south to the Caribbean” from North America, what they mean is that they are going east to the Lesser Antilles. The Caribbean 1500 rally departs by Frank from the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay every fall and travels over 1,250 nautical miles southeast to arrive in Tortola, BVI. They do it because they want to “go to the Caribbean.” In order to make that trip, experts review weather prognostics to give the rally its best possible conditions. Many participants party hearty to avoid thinking about the amount of offshore work they will undertake. Others pray to their favorite saint. To avoid the rigors of an offshore trip of this distance in the Atlantic Ocean, other cruisers “harbor hop the Thornless Path” all the way to “the Caribbean”, i.e. Tortola, via the Mona Passage at the west end of Puerto Rico. The strategy as outlined in Bruce Van Sant’s classic work The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South works well — provided that you can understand and replicate the voyage Bruce knows so well. Otherwise, while the route avoids long offshore passages, it does include a strong dose of “bashing into easterly winds and seas” day in and day out. The “reward” that you get at the end of the bashing is to have to cross the Mona Passage, which has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde personality due to the Puerto Rican Trench, which is seismically active. Are there safe alternatives? Look at the map and consider that both the offshore strategy and the harbor-hop strategy have one thing in common. They both work hard to get the cruising boat to the east. But why do North American sailors have to go so far east to get to the Caribbean? The truth is, we do not! There are other “entrances” to the Caribbean Sea that are closer, safer, much easier, or all of the above. Back Door One: The Windward Passage One can enter via the Windward Passage, between Cuba and Haiti. To get to the Windward Passage from North America is much easier because you are not trying to go east and also because your time in the Atlantic Ocean is very much reduced. The distance from the mouth of the Chesapeake to the Windward Passage is about 1,000 nautical miles, but one of the biggest advantages other than distance is the course. The course from the mouth of the Chesapeake or from points farther south (I like to depart from Hilton Head, South Carolina, which is approximately 800 nautical miles from the Windward Passage) is south by southeast. In other words, a broad reach in normal tradewind conditions. The farther south I depart from in North America, the quicker I find the tradewinds. Imagine broad reaching into the Caribbean on a port tack, pushed by the trades! Back Door Two: The West End of Cuba There is yet another entrance to the Caribbean — one that is rarely, if ever, discussed. The west end of Cuba is approximately 225 nautical miles from Key West. To go direct assumes you do not want to stop in Marina Hemingway, just west of Havana. If you choose to stop there, the distance is reduced to 90 nautical miles.

Many cruisers I have spoken with about this entry into the Caribbean ask about facing an adverse current. There is no way to avoid the current on any route: the offshore route faces the North Equatorial Current adversely, and all voyages south and east from North America must encounter adverse current. The current in the Caribbean Sea runs west and averages one knot. At the west coast of Cuba, the Virgintino Florida current, which is part of the Gulf Stream and a continuation of the Caribbean current, can run at speeds of 2.5 knots to the north — against you. There are always ways to cope and this case is no exception. The current can be handled in one of two ways according to World Cruising Routes by Jimmy Cornell and from my personal experience, I agree. One can either cruise in the direction of Dry Tortugas, which will keep the current adverse at about one knot, or head for the northwest coast of Cuba where you can pick up a counter-current close into shore. The counter-current sets south and west. Key West is an excellent jumping off point; it has a great deal to see and enjoy and is a good provisioning stop. If you are an American-flagged boat, you may not want to stop in Cuba. However, rounding Cuba at its west end is not equivalent to entering Cuba provided you maintain a distance of 12 miles off shore. Making Your Easting in the Caribbean Assuming that we enter the Caribbean Sea through either one of its “back doors,”

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 28

The Caribbean’s Back Doors

we still have to cope with adverse wind and adverse current to get to the Eastern Caribbean. That is true. However, the Greater Antilles have some interesting characteristics. Cuba, Jamaica, Hispaniola (Haiti and the Dominican Republic) and Puerto Rico all have high mountain ranges. This means that if the tradewinds are not exceedingly high during the day, and if you stay within five miles of the shoreline, you can count on the katabatic winds to halt the tradewinds after the sun sets. Katabatic winds are winds that “slide” down the mountainsides at night because the air is cooler and thus heavier. Sometimes the katabatic winds are eight to ten knots and one can sail on a port tack heading east. —Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page Another benefit to making your easting now is that you are not in the Atlantic Ocean. The Caribbean Sea is much more user friendly than the Atlantic and because of the direction of the tradewinds, you will not be on a lee shore. In the book The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South one of the key strategies given is to use a “norther” to sail eastward, as northers stall the tradewinds and can be counted on to arrive regularly. I agree with the concept; however, northers can be very strong and sailing in the Atlantic Ocean in a norther is best avoided if possible, at least for those of us who like comfort and safety. I am not saying that one cannot sail a

Back Doors via Back Issues If you’re considering entering or leaving the Caribbean by one of its “back doors”, the following short selection of articles about cruises and destinations along the way might be of interest. They, and much more, can be found in Compass’s Back Issues Archive at www.caribbeancompass.com/backissues.html. Cuba “Cuban Cruising” by Ruth Ross-Thomson, May 2007 “Southwest Cuba” by Christopher Price, March and April 2008 “Western Cuba Cruising Update” by Suzanne Austin, July and August 2009 Cayman Islands “The Sister Islands” by Frank Virgintino, March 2011 Jamaica “Jamaica ‘Respect!’” by Kathy Chetland, July 2007 “Don’t Worry, Be Happy in Jamaica” by Phil Chapman, September 2008 Hispaniola “Haiti: A Step Back in Time” by Phil Chapman, June 2008 “A Cruise Though the South Side of Hispaniola” by Frank Virgintino, May and June 2012 Puerto Rico “South Coast of Puerto Rico in Six Stops” by Michelle Fleming, May 2010

Sailors coming from the east coast of North America often overlook the option of entering the Caribbean Sea at either end of Cuba and cruising the Greater Antilles en route to the eastern island chain

CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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norther, just that you have to know the norther you are dealing with and that is a very complicated subject indeed. An Abundance of Anchorages There is still another benefit of using the back doors to the Caribbean. The distance from the west end of Cuba to the east end of Puerto Rico is approximately 1,200 nautical miles. All along that distance there are numerous anchorages and harbors, literally one right after another. As you move east along the Cuban south coast, you can stop and visit the Sister Islands, which are part of Grand Cayman. Jump off from Cuba and head for the northeast tip of Jamaica to arrive at Port Antonio, a safe and delightful harbor. From Jamaica, sail to the southwest corner of Haiti to Ile-à-Vache which is very safe and charming. Eastward along the south coast of Hispaniola and there are a dozen wonderful stops you can make all the way to Isla Saona. From there, you cross over to Puerto Rico (no need to transit the Mona Passage — you are south of it) and follow Puerto Rico’s south coast with all the anchorages and harbors to its eastern end where you can visit the Spanish Virgin Islands of Culebra and Vieques. A cruise along the south coasts of the Greater Antilles is extraordinary! From Puerto Rico, a stone’s throw and we make the Virgin Islands and are at the top of the Lesser Antilles chain, ready to cruise south. What is the net result? The net result is that we cruise to the Lesser Antilles but we get to transit and enjoy the Greater Antilles, which is also an integral part of the Caribbean, along the way. And we get to arrive in the Lesser Antilles more safely as well as more enjoyably. All we need to do is give up the idea that our voyage to The Caribbean must make first landfall in the Lesser Antilles. Once we do that, we break from what so many of us have done so unconsciously for so long. Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides at www.freecruisingguide.com.

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OLD BARBADOS I’ve a longing for the old days that will never come again, The days when life was simple, long before the tourists came. The days when four o’clock would mean that it was time for tea, And the boys came up from surfing, to renew their energy With Nana’s guava jelly, put atop a penny bread, Or if your luck was in, you might have Nana’s cake instead!

OCTOBER 2012 ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) There could be major creative differences about boat business that will culminate on the 29th. Plans could go on the rocks and problems with crew or yard workers escalate with the interference of a female (who could even be you).

PAGE 30 CARIBBEAN COMPASS OCTOBER 2012

When we enjoyed a rum and soda at the cocktail hour, And dinnertime, when simple meals were relished and devoured. How I loved that Bajan cooking, and I feel so very lucky, For nowadays I doubt youth could survive without Kentucky! There seems to be a panic that they will not make the grade, And who has time to cook, when there’s a dollar to be made? Remember times when neighbours shared the laughter and the tears? But nowadays, they think it’s best if they don’t ‘interfere’. My nieces and my nephews are all doing very well, And perhaps I’m an anachronism; it is hard to tell. And things are really better than they ever used to be… But still, I’d like to have that bread and guava jelly tea!

— Nan Hatch KARL WATSON COLLECTION

TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) A romantic interest will be just the fair wind you need to keep from sailing into squalls with crew or cruising pals. Don’t let irritability sink the fun.

Isla Po nd ets

GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) Concentrate on an ingenious course and don’t let pickiness in your love life blow you off into rough weather. CANCER (22 Jun - 23 Jul) This month it will be a challenge to find a clear inventive course through a storm of differences with fellow boaters. Your communication skills will help you navigate these rough waters and find solutions. LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug) Your desire to hog the helm of life will meet with opposition and criticism, which could lead to mutiny. You’ll have to put others at the nav desk to find a course into fair weather and a positive outcome. VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep) Enjoy a month of romance and let the rest of the world sail by. Concentrate on the positive while everyone else is losing their minds. LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) Your creative course will have clear skies and a following sea, so use it to make progress in business or finance. You may get a lee-bow effect from a new love interest near the end of the month.

parlumps marooned

SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov) Your verbal skills will be at their peak from the 5th to the 29th. Use this time to make headway. Creative winds will also be picking up and will have you under full sail through next month.

SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec) Your love life may blow hot and cold with many annoying details to make your experience a rough voyage. You’ll have a lot of energy but no direction. Your gift of the gab will get a fair breeze after the 29th and will help you analyze the situation. CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan) While you’re finding your way through the reefs and shoals of commerce, romance will sail in to take your mind off your difficulties.

PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar) The seas of romance will be choppy, with endless annoyances and misunderstandings. Your verbal talents will be useful for damage control.

PARLUMPS@HOTMAIL.COM

AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb) Use your analytical skills to pick your sea battles this month, as poor propagation in communications may make your course a difficult one. Put your energies into stimulating onboard projects to have a positive outcome.

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FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE All Saint’s Eve is not the time to scoff at age-old traditions, as the village’s grumpy old lady found out to her sorrow. Mistress Aliot lived by herself at the edge of the village in a Caribbean island with mountains and sandy beaches in equal measure. The village had plenty of happy mothers and children who looked forward to trick-or-treating around the village at Halloween every year. Usually they by-passed Mistress Aliot because she always sent them on their way by waving her stick at them, but this year Phillipa, the eldest of the girls, decided to give Mistress Aliot one last try. The laughing, shrieking bunch of boys and girls, all dressed up in whatever scary costumes they could lay their hands on, and carrying bags that were already half full with treats of candy, biscuits, apples and homemade toffee, boldly followed Phillipa to the edge of the village. Phillipa banged loudly on Mistress Aliot’s door and everyone called out, at the top of his or her voice, “Trick or Treat!” Mistress Aliot threw open her door, and looking like a witch in her black dress and with her grey hair hanging down to her hunched shoulders, waved her stick at them and hissed, “Get away before I put a curse on the lot of you!” The children ran off screaming. Mistress Aliot returned to her seat in her gloomy parlor, muttering to herself, and then she took herself off to bed. The clock struck midnight, when all the saints gather to reward the good children, and they decided to punish Mistress Aliot. So on the stroke of 12 a heavy hand descended on the old woman’s shoulder. She awoke with a start. “What was that?” she cried. An eerie chuckle greeted her and Mistress Aliot sat bolt upright. Horrible creatures were now creeping out of her walls, sliding through the closed windows and doors. A luminous grey spider slid down its web

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OCTOBER 2012

by Lee Kessell

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PAGE 31

above her head, dripping red blood upon her dirty old quilt. A fanged lizard, green as moss on a gravestone, bent its purple eyes upon her while its fangs slobbered with reeking slime. A huge black bat with claws of sulphur yellow brought with it the stench of hell and flew up through the roof where it perched and flapped and its horrible nose wrinkled and sniffed as if searching for the old woman’s blood. Ghostly shapes, luminous in the dark swirled and dipped, touching her face and hair and grazing her hands until they stung like fire. “Stop!” wailed Mistress Aliot. “Forgive me! I’m just a poor old woman.” “Then change your ways, old woman, and all will be well,” a stern voice answered. Suddenly all was quiet, the creatures and the visions departed and the old woman sobbed loudly. Then she got out of her bed and threw open her windows and doors. She lit her lamp and all night she scrubbed and cleaned. She washed all her clothes and her quilt and sheets, hung them to dry and then she washed her dirty hair and scrubbed herself clean. Morning broke at last and Mistress Aliot slept. By midday Mistress Aliot was up and about, and first thing she went to the store and bought ingredients to make sweet coconut cookies. When they had cooled, she filled a basket to the brim and hurried off to the village square. The people were there with their children enjoying the late afternoon and nobody recognized this strange old lady. Phillipa asked, “Who are you?” “I’m Mistress Aliot! The spirits of Halloween came to me last night and taught me a lesson. I’ve made these cookies for all of you as a Halloween treat. I know I’m late, but here, come and get them.” The children rushed and took their Halloween treats and it wasn’t long before all the cookies were eaten. As the old lady turned to go one of the mothers called out, “Don’t go Mistress Aliot. Come and join our party.” From that day on Mistress Aliot became part of the happy village and her cottage was the first that the boys and girls came to when trick-or-treating at Halloween. THE END

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Mistress Aliot’s Halloween Lesson

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 32

BIG PLANS

GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, the guide he used was Norie and Wilson’s “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in 1867. Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. In 1980 Street said in print that if anyone could come up with an anchorage safe for a boat that draws seven feet that he has not covered in the guide he would buy the drinks. Thirty-two years have gone by and he has never had to buy drinks. Real sailors in the Windwards, Leewards and Virgin Islands circle in Street’s Guide the anchorages that are NOT described in the other popular guides. Do the same and you will have quiet anchorages. HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information on tracking & securing for a storm Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and Johnson Marine Hardware in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books & Charts in Fort Lauderdale, or contact channelsales@authorsolutions.com

PICK UP! Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Martinique, pick up your free monthly copy of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue appear in bold):

FORT DE FRANCE Sea Services CASE PILOTE Volvo Inboard Diesel Service RIVIÈRE SALÉE W.I.N.D. LE MARIN Marina: Caraïbe Marine Capitainerie Le Ship Mécanique Plaisance Mango Bay Artimer Area: Carenantilles Careneshop Clippers Ship Voiles Assistance YES Engineering

Okay, we don’t really want to encourage anyone to leave the Caribbean. But if you absolutely have your heart set on a circumnavigation or voyages in other seas and oceans, here are two books that will serve you well, both in the planning stages and during the voyage. How to Inexpensively and Safely Buy, Outfit and Sail a Small Vessel Around the World: Living Large at Sea on a Micro-Budget, by Cap’n Fatty Goodlander. © Gary M. Goodlander 2011. Paperback and e-book, 228 pages, black-andwhite photos. ISBN 978-14563100-3-5. Fatty is known for funny, and this book contains giggles galore — he can’t help it — but it’s primarily a “how to” book offering serious pragmatic advice from one who has long lived the life about successful longterm ocean voyaging on far less money than most would ever imagine possible. As Fatty says, “The core premise is that there is little correlation between dollars spent and pleasure received when it comes to offshore cruising. Cheaper boats can be far more seaworthy that their expensive counterparts if the skipper’s money is spent wisely.” In today’s economy many believe they can’t afford to go cruising, or at least not in the style they think they need to. Fatty scuttles that belief, illustrating step-by-step (sometimes in a loopy way, yet effectively) just how an average Joe or Josephine can get to sea safely and happily on a beer budget. He rightfully stresses strength and safety issues, pointing out that “cheap” doesn’t have to mean weak or dangerous. Besides giving concrete examples of how to get the most boat for your buck (the man made Wild Card’s dorade vents from PVC plumbing elbows), and advice on not wasting money (planning ahead, keeping up with maintenance, learning to make simple repairs, eating what the locals eat, preventing theft, etcetera), Fatty is a life coach, constantly exhorting the reader to be a world voyager despite lack of a fat wallet: “We have choices.” Available at bookstores or from FattyGoodlander.com. World Voyage Planner: Planning a Voyage from Anywhere in the World to Anywhere in the World, by Jimmy Cornell. © Jimmy Cornell 2012 . Flexicover, 342 pages, color photos, charts and diagrams. ISBN 978-0-9572626-0-7. World Voyage Planner shows the results of Jimmy Cornell’s prodigious ability to collect information, encapsulating his decades of experience gleaned over sailing 200,000 miles. Included in detailed descriptions of a wide range of circular and point-to-point voyages in every ocean, plus round-the-world voyages, are recommended seasons for voyaging, critical months for specific tropical storm areas, suggestions for alternate routes, and strategically located ports of call to be used in an emergency. Alphanumeric and colorcoding systems make it easy to find the exact information you’re looking for, and the abundant pilot charts and diagrams are crisply legible. Jean-Luc Gourmelen of Voiles et Voiliers magazine has pointed out: “A mechanical failure, a place that you enjoy so much that you stay longer than expected, a geopolitical situation rapidly evolving… many are the reasons that may modify a round-the-world voyage. In Jimmy Cornell’s book, every route in every ocean and in every season has been taken into account, and hundreds of Plans B are extremely well documented.” Compass readers will find the sections on voyages to the Caribbean and voyages from the Caribbean to the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, North America, and South Africa particularly useful. Available at bookstores or from www.cornellsailing.com.

THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! FIGURE 1

The Sky in October 2012 by Scott Welty

October 5th, 2300 hours: Moon and Jupiter between the horns of Taurus FIGURE 2 FIGURE 4

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

October 18th, 1800 hours: Moon and Mars

OCTOBER 2012

October 12th, 0400 hours: Moon and Venus FIGURE 3

PAGE 33

The Planets in October MERCURY - Setting in the early evening heading for maximum elongation (biggest angle from the sun) on the 27th VENUS - Still a pretty morning ‘star’ rising after 0200 hours EARTH - Going to a Halloween party as Uranus MARS - Setting around 1930 hours all month just off of Scorpio JUPITER - Right between the horns of Taurus the Bull. Rising between 2100 and 1930 hours as the month progresses. SATURN - Rising in the morning and setting in the early evening. No Saturn for you! Sky Events This Month 5th - Jupiter and moon between the horns of Taurus (See Figure 1) 12th - Venus and crescent moon in the morning (See Figure 2) 15th - New Moon 18th - Mars and crescent moon setting together (See Figure 3) 19th - Peak of the Orionids meteor shower (see below) 29th - Full Moon Orionids Meteor Shower Meteor showers are caused by the Earth moving through dust and debris left behind by a comet. This shower is due to the most famous comet of all — Halley’s Comet. The name of the shower is because the meteors will appear to emanate from a point near the constellation Orion. Speaking of Edmund Halley, it was he who went to Newton with the idea that a particular set of comet sightings were all the same comet orbiting the sun every 80 years or so. Newton said, “Oh yes, I worked all that out some time ago.” (Newton did most of his original work during the plague years when Cambridge was closed) and dug out a large stack of manuscripts over 20 years old. Halley convinced Newton that the papers (which explained gravity, motion, orbital motion, the tides, force and inertia, and contained the invention of calculus) should be published. Newton didn’t like publishing his work because he knew he was right and hated arguing with people whom he knew wouldn’t understand his work. The manuscript was published as The Principia, and is still in print. High school physics would never be the same! But I digress... as usual, the 19th is just the peak of the shower so feel free to look up on the days before and after. This shower produces 20 to 40 meteors per hour — more the farther south you are. Getting to Mars The recent triumphant landing of the Curiosity Mars Rover prompted me to look at how you get a spaceship to Mars. Even before Newton, a monk by the name of Kepler figured out that the orbits of the planets were shaped like ellipses. Ovals if you will. He also worked out how long it takes to orbit the sun given the size of the ellipse. The bigger the orbit the longer it takes, and the math rule is fairly simple but no need for that here. So the best way to get to Mars is to inject a spaceship into an orbit around the sun and one that would just kiss both Earth and Mars’ orbits and then just use half of this orbit. This is the path that takes the least fuel. Since you know the size of this orbit you know how long it will take to get to Mars (half of the orbital time) and working backwards you can find a good time to go so that Mars will be there when you touch its orbit. Figure 4 shows the relative positions of Earth and Mars at launch and at landing. You see it is much like throwing a ball (or kicking it, depending on your sport) to a running receiver. In fact you can select which crater you want to land on and hit it within a couple of hundred yards. Now THAT’S plotting a course! Notice that you launch your craft in the direction the Earth is already going. You can use that 18 mi/sec to help you get to Mars. To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck A little late, but such is the quaintness of print media. RIP Neil Armstrong. The astronauts were my heroes growing up and none more than this quiet, nerdy engineer. I was surprised and pleased to learn that after leaving NASA he taught engineering for ten years at a small college in Ohio. What were those lectures like? Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing, Burford Books, ©2007. Correction on last month’s column: A software glitch indicated the occultation of Mars and Jupiter by the moon in September. The moon passed close to each planet but not actually in front of them. Sorry for any puzzling nights staring at that which didn’t happen!

How to get to Mars

SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL

Good Nutrition on a Boating Budget:

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 34

BEANS Whether on the hook or at the dock, or after a summer of haul-out expenses, we all try to cut some expenses. Once cruisers learn to enjoy cooking for themselves aboard, there’s more money staying in their pockets. The trick is to be able to cook easy, tasty, nutritious meals without a lot of effort or mess. Enjoy nutritious beans and save money and time in the galley. Beans are one of the easiest foods to prepare, and they pack a lot of nutrition with almost zero waste — no bones, cores or peels — for small money. Beans can be eaten raw, sprouted or cooked, ground into flour or curdled into tofu. They are excellent with rice, in soups and in salads. To prepare dried beans, start by rinsing to remove any dirt or small stones, then soak them overnight. (That’s the easiest way). Or, an afternoon method is to quicksoak by placing one or more cups of beans in a pot with double the water. Bring to a boil, and let cook for one minute. Cover, remove from heat, and let sit for one hour while you do something else. Come back, pour off the water, add triple the fresh water and bring to a boil. After either soaking method, simmer beans partially covered till soft enough to mash between your tongue and the roof of your mouth or they can be easily mashed between two fingers or with a fork. Always test a few beans in case they have not cooked evenly. Cooking time will be about an hour depending on the type and age of the bean. Lentils and split peas take less than a half an hour. (A pressure cooker cuts down the cooking time, but be sure to add some cooking oil to the water so the beans don’t foam and block the pressure valve.) To get added flavor, fry a couple of chopped onions in two tablespoons of margarine or butter with a clove or two of minced garlic until just brown and add to the cooking liquid. Do not add salt or vinegar, tomatoes or juice, which can slow the cooking substantially. It is best to add these ingredients when the beans are just tender. That may seem long to prepare something to use in a meal, but you can be doing many other things while dried beans soak and cook, from doing laundry to watching the stars. Make twice the amount of beans you need for a meal and freeze the remainder, unseasoned. Consider the amounts needed in the future: maybe a half to four-cup portions to use in future recipes. If you want faster beans, buy canned. Nutritionally beans are worth every minute. Soaking dried beans for a couple of hours brings them back to life, activating enzymes, proteins, vitamins and minerals. Eating a cup of cooked beans a day can lower your cholesterol and decrease risk of heart disease. Combined with nuts, seeds, or grains (especially brown rice), beans form a complete high-fiber vegetable protein. Most beans are extremely low in fat and are one of the richest sources of fiber. Most beans contain at least 20 percent protein and are high in carbohydrates, which provide durable energy. Beans provide essential B vitamins and iron. The prices below are in US dollars based on Trinidad’s markets. Black Bean Soup Black beans are full of antioxidant compounds shown to improve brain function. A half-cup serving provides eight grams of protein and 7.5 grams of fiber. 1 bag dried or 2 cans black beans ($1.20)

1 Tablespoon oil ($.10) 1 onion, chopped ($.50) 2 cloves of garlic, minced ($.10) 1 stalk celery, chopped small ($.25) 1 teaspoon chili powder ($.10) 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves ($.10) 1 teaspoon ground cumin ($.10) 2 large ripe tomatoes or one large can diced ($2) 2 Cups chicken or vegetable broth ($.50) 1 Cup fresh or canned corn kernels ($1.10) 1 bundle chadon beni, chopped fine ($.30) 1 hot pepper, seeded and minced, optional ($.20) 1 Tablespoon lime juice ($.10) salt and pepper to taste ($.05) If using dried beans, soak and cook till soft. If using canned beans, drain and rinse. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, celery, chili powder, oregano, and cumin. Stir occasionally for five minutes. Add tomatoes, black beans, and broth. Bring to a boil stirring often for five minutes. Stir in corn, chadon beni, hot pepper, and lime juice. Cook on low heat for half an hour. Serves four. Total cost US$7. Bean Burgers Bean burgers are packed with high-quality protein and are great for both vegetarians and meat-eaters. 1 package dried or one can white or other beans of your choice ($1.20) 1 medium onion, chopped small ($.40) 1 garlic clove, minced ($.10) 2 Tablespoons oil ($.20) 1 carrot, grated ($.20) 1 Tablespoon barbecue sauce ($.20) 1 Cup dried breadcrumbs ($.90) salt, pepper and spices such as oregano, thyme or cumin to your taste ($.20) 1 teaspoon soy sauce ($.20) 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce ($.20) 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced, optional ($.20) 1 egg, beaten ($.20) If using dried beans, soak and cook till soft. If using canned beans, drain and rinse. In a frying pan, fry onion and garlic in oil until just brown. In a suitable bowl add drained and rinsed beans and mash with a fork or use a beater or blender. Combine carrot, barbecue sauce, half of the breadcrumbs, salt and spices, soy and Worcestershire sauces, and hot pepper if used. Stir in fried onionand-garlic mixture, and mix well with mashed beans. Add remaining breadcrumbs until the mixture firms enough to form solid patties. It is best to form patties with wet hands. Brush each patty with egg. Reheat the oil used for the onion and garlic to medium. Add patties and cook for ten minutes or until brown. Flip carefully and fry for five more minutes. Serve like a regular burger with all your favorite toppings. Serves four. Total cost $5. Good Ol’ Lentils ’n’ Rice Lentils are an extremely healthy food. One hundred grams of raw lentils contains around 350 calories, 60 grams of carbohydrates of which 31 grams is dietary fiber, 26 grams of protein, with only one gram of fat. Lentils are rich in vitamin B, phosphorus and iron. 1 1/2 Cups lentils ($1) 6 Cups water 1/2 Cup natural rice ($.30) 1 medium onion, chopped small ($.30) 2 garlic cloves, minced ($.10) 1 teaspoon salt, spices such as cumin or oregano to taste ($.20) 2 Tablespoons ketchup or barbecue sauce ($.25) 1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced, optional ($.20) —Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page In a suitable pot with a lid add lentils to the water and cook on medium heat until lentils just begin to soften. Add rice, onion, garlic, spices, and salt. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer. Cover and cook for half an hour or until rice is cooked. Stir in ketchup and hot pepper if desired. Serves four. Total cost $2.50. Spicy Chickpeas Chickpeas, also known as channa or garbanzo beans, have 361 calories per 100 grams, and are rich in carbohydrates, proteins, phosphorus, calcium and iron. 4 Cups dried or 2 cans chickpeas ($3) 3 Tablespoons oil ($.30) 1 large onion, chopped ($.50) 2 garlic cloves, minced ($.10) 1 stalk celery, chopped ($.20) 1 teaspoon ground cumin ($.10) 1 teaspoon salt ($.10) 1 teaspoon red chili powder ($.10) 3 large tomatoes, chopped ($2.50) 1 Tablespoon lemon juice ($.20) If using dried beans, soak and cook till soft. If using canned beans, drain and rinse. In a large frying pan add oil over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, celery, cumin, salt, and red chili powder. Stir frequently over medium high heat until onions are tender. Add tomatoes and stir until mixture thickens. Add lemon juice, stir well. Add channa/chickpeas and stir well, cooking five minutes. Remove from heat and serve with rice or pasta. Serves four. Total cost US$7. Health Note Cook red and kidney beans completely: they contain a harmful toxin only destroyed by cooking. Undercooked beans may be more toxic than raw beans.

Bean Sprouts Aboard! by Ross Mavis A garden plot is not required to grow a continuous supply of leafy green vegetables. A large Mason jar with a screen or cheesecloth covering the jar’s mouth is a perfect greenhouse for a sailor’s sprouts. Several jars can be used for a supply of different greens. A cool, dark shelf or cupboard in the galley is the perfect place for incubation. Use organically grown beans for the best germination results. Sprouting tends to turn carbohydrate content into sugars and the resulting sprouts are fairly sweet when harvested early on. Our guests on board marveled at how newly harvested sprouts tasted so delicious. Don’t worry about looking slightly like a sheep chewing a mouthful of field greens. The taste results are worth any embarrassment.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

Shirley Hall, the author of The New Caribbean Home Garden Handbook, is now on a book-signing tour of the islands. She will be at Dockside Bookstore in Havensite Mall, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas on October 17th and at Jay’s Books in Roseau, Dominica on the 18th. Stop and say hi!

OCTOBER 2012

Follow these four easy steps for great sprouts: • In a clean Mason jar, rinse about 1/4 Cup of untreated beans or grain, or one Tablespoon of seed, with lukewarm, fresh water. • Cover the rinsed seeds, beans or grain with double their volume in tepid water. Place the open jar in a dark pantry cupboard away from cold or excessive heat — between 20°C and 26°C (68°F to 79°F) is best — and allow them to soak overnight or for at least four hours. • Carefully rinse the sprouts again the next day, using slightly warm fresh water. Rinse again if necessary to remove any foam or froth formed as the seeds swell. • Rinse seeds or grain at least twice daily until ready to harvest. It’s important that they be drained properly as rot will occur if they are left submerged. Your greens will be ready in two to six days, depending on what is being grown. I prefer the tender, sweet, young sprouts to the older, nuttier flavour of sprouts aged for three or more days. If you like your sprouts leafy green, then expose the glass jar to sunlight for the last few hours of their growth before harvesting them. Don’t try to grow too much in a jar at once, as crowding will curtail growth and sometimes promote rotting. Sprouts keep well in the refrigerator or icebox for a few days.

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ROTIS WITH RUTHIE

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 36

by Heather Hamilton

MERIDIAN PASSAGE OF THE MOON OCTOBER - NOVEMBER 2012 Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next month, will help you calculate the tides. Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e. the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. Fair tides! 21 1737 10 0831 October 22 1629 11 0923 DATE TIME 23 1919 12 1018 1 0022 24 2005 13 1117 (new moon) 2 0107 25 2050 14 1220 3 0153 26 2134 15 1323 4 0240 27 2219 16 1426 5 0327 28 2303 17 1526 6 0416 29 2349 18 1622 7 0504 30 0000 (full moon) 19 1714 8 0552 31 0035 20 1813 9 0614 21 1849 10 0728 November 22 1933 11 0816 1 0123 23 2017 12 0905 2 0211 24 2103 13 0954 3 0259 25 2146 14 1046 0347 26 2232 15 1140 (new moon) 4 5 0434 27 2319 16 1238 6 0521 28 0000 (full moon) 17 1338 7 0608 29 0007 18 1437 8 0654 30 0055 19 1540 9 0742 20 1640

Read in Next Month’s Compass: An Aruban Flashback Hearty but Healthy Galley Treats Planning a Quiet Eastern Caribbean Cruise

… and more!

I’m ashamed to admit that after six months sailing the Caribbean, I didn’t even know what a roti was. Then I lucked into a rotimaking lesson in Bequia, in the Grenadines. My husband, Pip, and I had seen signs for them everywhere in the ten islands we’d visited on our sailboat, a 40-foot Hardin Sea Wolf ketch, but hadn’t yet sampled a roti, despite our enthusiastic explorations of other island foods. So when a couple of fellow cruisers visiting our boat for sundowners started raving about the “madefrom-scratch” rotis they had eaten at a local restaurant, I decided it was time to lose my roti virginity — particularly because I had just spent the afternoon laughing with the owner and suspected she’d be willing to let me watch her make them. When we first dropped into the Whaleboner for beers and internet, the owner, Ruthie HinksonWilliams, was out. Her adorable, On a quiet, rainy day in Bequia, Ruthie happily scrawny eight-year old son demonstrates her roti technique Camillo, however, was more than capable of filling in, asking us with precise politeness, “What may I bring you? That will be 12 dollars Eastern Caribbean, please.” I was charmed silly by his diction and good manners, and had to stifle a giggle as he opened our bottles by enthusiastically grasping them with both hands and fitting them into a traditional, wall-mounted bottle opener, levering them open with a great heave, as if they weighed a ton. Ruthie soon returned, and my amused retelling of her son’s bartending aptitude led to an afternoon of telling stories and laughing over working in our parents’ businesses as children. Ruthie’s father started the Whaleboner 50 years ago. Whaling is a traditional, if controversial, activity on Bequia. Some say it started when a whaling ship from Nantucket was stranded on the island during a hurricane. In the year it took to repair the boat, many of the fishermen had started families and — not surprisingly — elected to stay in the island paradise rather than return to the frigid waters of New England. While the International Whaling Commission today permits islanders to take up to four whales a year, there are few left with the skills to hunt them, and many years no whales are taken. But a large pile of whale bones still exists on a small island known as Whale Cay. Fifty years ago, Ruthie’s father was drinking with his friends one day down among the bones and exclaimed, “Hey, wouldn’t it be fun to open a bar with these?” and the idea for the Whaleboner was born. Today you enter the restaurant through an arch of whale ribs and sit on bar stools made from vertebrae as you look out over the clear, aqua waters of Admiralty Bay — and if you ask Ruthie nicely, maybe she’ll tell you the other story of the bar’s name. The day we visited was a rare rainy day in Bequia, which had just entered the off season. The restaurant was quiet, giving Ruthie plenty of time to show me her roti technique. She first laid out all the ingredients, explaining that rotis came to the West Indies with Indian indentured servants after the end of slavery, though there were no Indians on Bequia, “it was all Africans and Scots here.” The roti — a tortillalike flatbread filled with potatoes and meat or vegetables — is the “packed, fitted lunch with everything in there... a bulky, hearty meal for the husbands going out in the fields,” and each island makes them differently. As she spoke, she mixed a basic flour dough, kneaded it and split it into two balls. Using her thumbs, she shaped each ball of dough into a small bowl shape, then placed a few tablespoons of mashed yellow split peas in the center. She explained that the split peas “add flavour and protein” as she pinched the sides of the dough back together into a ball. She set the two filled balls of dough aside to rest, covered with a cloth, explaining that she makes the entire roti from scratch each time, “because the dough is just not the same if refrigerated.” It’s a lengthy process, she explained, “But what I tell people when they start fussin’ is you’re gonna get the best roti you’ve ever had.” Ruthie turned to the fillings as the dough rested: she’d decided to make both a fish and a veggie roti, but started the spice mix for both in the same pan. Over medium heat in a bit of oil, she sautéed garlic, onions, peppers, cayenne, peppercorns, Trinidadian curry powder and chadon beni, a Caribbean herb much like cilantro. “You’ve got to let it heat up to get the flavors out of the spices,” she explained. “For the veggie and beef rotis, I like to add a nice strong cinnamon bay leaf, even though it’s not traditional.” Into another pot went another handful of Trini curry powder and diced potatoes, set to boil while she cubed the firm kingfish into half-inch squares. Halving the now fragrant spice mix and starting a second pan for the vegetable filling, Ruthie explained that a vegetable roti can use any combination of vegetables, and is particularly good for leftovers. She used carrots and pre-cooked Caribbean pumpkin, throwing in handfuls of pigeon peas cooked in coconut milk and yellow split peas left over from the dough. The cubed fish was added to the spices in the original pan, along with about half a cup of water, and left to simmer. Once the fillings were on the stove, Ruthie turned back to the dough, rolling it out into a 12-inch round. She explained that the rotis are traditionally made on a roti stone, like a flat iron plate, but a flat griddle would work just as well in the modern kitchen. Tapping off the flour from the dough round, she gently placed it in a generous amount of oil then used a wax-paper ball to thoroughly cover the top of the round with oil. “Really cover the top with oil,” she instructed, “and let it sit a few minutes to cook. It might puff up, but you don’t want to let it get brown freckles — it will be too hard to fold.” Finally, Ruthie slid the cooked flatbread onto a plate, then layered potatoes, then fish, then potatoes, and folded the bread around the filling, gently flipping the whole thing over to keep the edges together. After repeating the same process with the vegetables, we carried the two steaming rotis out to the dining area, where my husband awaited eagerly. As Ruthie looked on, eagerly awaiting our verdict, we tucked into the rotis with delight, mumbling our praise around mouthfuls of deliciousness. —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page Satisfied that we were happy, Ruthie sat down with us and we whiled away the rest of the afternoon swapping stories and laughing together. Ruthie’s rotis were fabulous, but even more memorable was the afternoon I spent making a new friend and learning about her life, a cooking lesson that became a lesson in living fully.

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www.freecruisingguide.com Folding the fillings into the wrapper — Pip approves of the result!

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PAGE 37

Heather B. Hamilton spent 15 years in Washington, DC trying to save the world before packing it in, buying a sailboat and setting out to see the world in November 2010. She and her husband, Pip, are currently exploring the Caribbean on Picaroon, their 40-foot Hardin Sea Wolf ketch. Heather is the author of articles in Caribbean Compass and Blue Water Sailing, and forthcoming articles in Spin Sheet and Cruising World. Follow Heather and Pip’s adventures at www.picaroonblog.com.

Marina Zar-Par

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Vegetable Roti Makes two. For the dough: 3/4 Cup cooked yellow split peas, mashed with fork or food mill 2 Cups flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 Cup vegetable oil 1/2 Cup water For the filling: Oil for sautéing 1/2 an onion, very finely sliced 2 cloves garlic, finely minced or grated 10 whole peppercorns 3 Tablespoons diced “sive” (a cross between chives and green onions; either can be substituted) 2 leaves chadon beni, sliced (substitute cilantro if unavailable) 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 6 Tablespoons West Indian curry powder (West Indian curry powder is different from Indian, but you can substitute any sweet Indian curry powder if you cannot find West Indian) 2 medium potatoes, in half-inch dice 1 Cup vegetables, such as diced carrot, pumpkin, squash, or greens 1/2 Cup cooked beans or peas, such as pigeon or black-eyed peas Mix the flour and salt in a bowl and add the oil and enough water to form a moderately stiff dough. Knead together just long enough for the dough to become firm and hold together. Divide into two and flatten into a five-inch round. Make a well in the center of each and fill with two to three tablespoons of the mashed peas, reserving the rest for the filling. Bring together the edges of the dough to form a ball and let rest covered with a cloth or plastic wrap while preparing the filling. In oil over medium-low heat, sauté the onion, garlic, peppercorns, “sive”, chadon beni, cayenne and black peppers and three tablespoons of the curry powder in a few tablespoons of oil. In a medium pot in salted water, bring the remaining curry powder and potatoes to a boil then lower to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about eight minutes. If the vegetables are not pre-cooked, add them to the spice mix with about a halfcup of water and simmer until tender, adding water as needed. When tender, add the cooked beans/peas and leftover split peas. As the potatoes and vegetables are cooking, roll out the dough into two 12-inch rounds. Heat several tablespoons of oil in a griddle or shallow frying pan over medium heat. Shake off the flour and place the dough round in the oil. Use a ball of wax paper or paper towel to generously coat the top side of the flatbread with oil. Cook for one to two minutes on each side; do not let brown marks appear. Drain the potatoes. Place each flatbread round on a plate. Place a quarter of the potatoes on each round, then half the vegetable mix, then the rest of the potatoes. Fold the edges of the flatbread over the filling, creating a rough cube, and flip so that the edges are under the filling. Dig in.

Compliments of:

OCTOBER 2012

Lesser Antilles in 3 volumes

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 38

READERS' FORUM

THE LIFE JACKET QUESTION Dear Compass, Regarding the Bequia lads who went to sea in an open boat with no life jackets [Info & Updates, September 2012], in Ireland because of the number of fishermen lost when their small (usually overloaded) fishing launches capsize, they have passed a law that requires everyone to wear a life jacket whenever they are in a boat. (The law will not save too many lives in these northern waters, as by the time the fisherman is found that was in a small boat that capsized he is dead of hypothermia.) Having sailed for 70 of my 82 years, and never having worn a life jacket, I am not about to start now! Some people say, “You might get arrested for not wearing a life jacket!” to which I reply, “I will have so much fun arguing with the prosecuting attorney and the judge, it will be worth the fine!” Also my fellow yachting writers will love it. Think of the wonderful copy they will be able to write about how Don Street, at age 82, who has sailed continually for 70 years, who is the oldest, and longest-serving yachting writer in the world (my first article was in Yachting magazine in September 1964), and who is still sailing, racing a 74-year old Dragon, and still drinking Heineken, is arrested and fined for not wearing a life jacket. Then some people say, “But you might fall overboard and drown!” To which I reply, “A much better way for an old lifetime sailor to go than die in a nursing home.” But though I do not wear a life jacket or PFD, I insist all my young crew do! Don Street Gypsy Glandore, Ireland VHF/DSC EMERGENCY CALLS Dear Compass, Like most sailors, no doubt, I react to Colin Thomas’s experience in Bequia with the deepest sympathy. [See “Boarded and Shot in Bequia”, Compass, September 2012.] However I am appalled at the proposition of another “security” channel. There is, in fact, already another emergency channel that was not referred to in the article — it is called GMDSS (Global Marine Distress and Safety System) and operates on the DSC channel, channel 70. Pressing the red distress button on your VHF initiates a digital emergency call on channel 70; it automatically gives your exact position as it sends your mayday. A VHF radio equipped with DSC can be left on any channel overnight, with the volume turned right down, and it will still receive an emergency call and sound a loud alarm. Under the GMDS system all shipping in the area is alerted. So, a DSC automated distress call together with a verbal mayday on VHF channel 16 is the only correct radio procedure in response to danger to the safety of a life at sea; indeed there is international agreement on this (SOLAS). Here in Grenada channel 68 is officially designated as a small-craft hailing channel and that works very well in separating much of the yachting from the commercial traffic. However, it is often suggested that channel 68 serve as an emergency channel at night. As Colin Thomas describes, this necessitates making calls on both 16 and 68 and monitoring both channels for a response; this could mean missing a call on one channel while monitoring another. Consider how much assistance a cruise ship or (to belabor the point) a visiting warship could provide, but will not do so unless they hear the request. The best way to ensure that is to use the designated channel — automatic digital distress call reinforced with a verbal mayday on channel 16. While Colin Thomas did finally summon help on channel 68, I would suggest that this experience provides a stronger argument for NOT having multiple calling channels than it does for adding yet another channel to the mix. Mike Barnott S/V Whitebird

LEARNING WORLD-CLASS SAILING SKILLS Dear Compass, The Carriacou Regatta in early August really got me to thinking about the importance of good regatta management and of the plight of youth sailors in the Grenadines. I would like to shine a light on the need for people, local and international, to appreciate the transition and growing pains of youth sailing in the Grenadines. Youth here straddle two worlds. Importantly, they embrace their heritage of double-enders and working boats. Many crew for their fathers and uncles, taking the helm themselves one day. Additionally, the junior sail-training programs in Bequia, Canouan, Petite Martinique, Carriacou and Grenada utilize modern one-design boats such as Optimists, Mosquitos and Lasers. For the children who want to advance into racing these boats, the natural path is utilizing the class rules used worldwide. Side benefits for learning and applying International Sailing Federation (ISAF) rules are development of analytical thinking and the chance to learn a marine language internationally understood. There were problems during the junior races, which caused frustration for all involved. The need for people with sailing/racing expertise on the Carriacou committee cannot be overstated. 2013 will be an opportunity to improve communication between the three race committees (double-enders, modern yachts and junior one-design classes) and have a viable website for planning and registration purposes. The director of the Carriacou Junior Sailing Club (CJSC) has for two years been teaching ISAF starts and racing rules to prepare her junior sailors to race one-design boats (Optimists and Lasers) outside of the Grenadines. As Jerry Stewart, Carriacou resident and chair of the Carriacou Regatta’s modern yacht races which headquarter in Tyrrel Bay, said afterwards, “The CJSC, in order to compete in the rest of the Caribbean, should educate their sailors to understand that, in the rest of the world, the Race Committee are in absolute charge. Punctuality is essential, as is knowledge of the rules. Failure to pursue these points will result in our kids being unable to compete regionally. Either youth sailing is to lead to greater things or will remain with disorganized untrained kids.” What could be viewed as a negative experience during the recent regatta could be treated as a learning opportunity. We can interpret this as a growing pain, a bump in the road, from which all can learn. We can look ahead to 2013 with greater knowledge and effectiveness for training the youth and orchestrating a higher quality regatta for all involved. It is wonderful for children of the Grenadines to honor their double-ender racing heritage by crewing in, and one day skippering, double-enders. Like speaking two languages, it is an advantage for them to additionally speak the universally understood language of ISAF. This way, they can advance within the modern sailing world, finding respect from both their local people and the international community. These skills could lead to careers in the marine industry. Making oneself trainable and disciplined, building viable skills and the associated self-esteem that comes from a job well done, are invaluable. Respectfully, Ellen Birrell S/V Boldly Go BOAT AMBULANCE FOR HAITI Dear Compass, August 26, 2012, Ile-à-Vache, Haiti. Hurricane Isaac veered north, away from Ile-à-Vache during the night. Ile-à-Vache hit by severe heavy rains from the western quadrant of the storm. No heavy damage on Ile-àVache. Our boat survived. Unfortunately Port au Prince and Northern Haiti did not do well. The death toll continues to rise. Areas have been washed away. Several killed by falling walls and trees. Many tents, makeshift houses and damaged houses have been destroyed. Little creeks are now swollen rivers; a lot of topsoil is being washed to the sea. Wells have been polluted by runoff. What power lines there are, many have been damaged. The outbreak of cholera before the storm now could become much worse. At this point we are preparing to take the sick across from Ile-à-Vache to Les Cayes on the mainland, to the missionary doctors. These are doctors from Cuba, Canada, USA, and many other countries who donate their time. Hopefully if the cholera outbreak gets worse the WHO will send in a medical team. Funds are being sent tomorrow to begin our ambulance service by boat. It could go on for months. The biggest cost is fuel to run the boat as even though it goes quickly it can only take a few at a time and the distances are great. Ile-à-Vache is a big island with around 15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants spread all around it. Many times sick Haitians cannot afford the boat taxi costs to the mainland. They think they will get over the “fever”. They will stay on the island and perish as cholera acts quickly and decisively. You become extremely dehydrated and your organs shut down — it might happen in less than 12 hours. It is a violent and painful way to leave this Earth. —Continued on next page

—Continued from previous page Wagner Tanis is the captain of the boat we brought over from the people of the Cayman Islands. He is also the director of the Canadian Water Project, and a manager of our fish farm operation. He is a shining star for the people of Haiti. He hears of sick people, finds them, talks to them and explains facts about the sickness. Loads them up, usually taking another family member and takes them across the eight- to 12-mile journey to the doctors. Sometimes it is in the middle of the night, sometimes stormy weather. Wagner is truly one to be proud of. He has saved many lives. All funds raised go directly to his hand — 100 percent. I have known Wagner for 14 years and will know him for the rest of my life. Thank you for the donations coming in. Yes 100 percent of all donations goes to a Haitian hand. Nothing goes to overhead — EVER. All of your money goes to Haiti to the Haitians to give them a hand up and not a hand out. You can donate through the TD Bank through the website www.friendsofileavachehaiti.com. Further updates and photos will be passed along. God Speed Haiti, Bruce Leeming friendsofileavache@gmail.com

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I SURVIVED A COUPLE OF HURRICANES Dear Compass Readers, Hurricane Isaac is brewing as I write this. I hope my friends in Florida will be okay. There were some high winds here in Venezuela, could have been the outer weather bands. Am still in the apartment recovering from my second knee replacement surgery, so don’t know what sea conditions are like but most likely the beaches are getting pounded. Oh yeah, did survive a couple of hurricanes. We were on the boat (anchored with four anchors) for Hurricanes David and Frederick in 1979 in St. Croix. Was really something. We were right in the track for David. We had stripped the boat of its sails, tied everything else down on the cabin top, including the dinghy. At 6:00PM as it was getting dark, all the radio stations from shore were playing religious hymns! I couldn’t take the stress. John went nuts when he found me asleep in the front bunk. He yelled “Are you crazy? You took something to sleep at a time like this when I might need you?” I hadn’t, I was just so scared I WILLED myself to sleep! Well, it must have been the power of prayer because as Hurricane David was boring down on St. Croix it unexpectedly veered west, so passed south of the island. We were on the north side, and although the island is only ten miles wide at that point it made a huge difference. Frederick brought rain, like never. You know when the rain reaches an intensity where you think it can’t come down any harder, that the cabin top will cave in? Well, it was like that sustained for 12 hours! John had to put on a dive mask to go out on deck to check the

lines; the wind and rain so intense, rain blowing sideways actually stung his face. It washed out all the roads on the island, many homes damaged, flooded. All my friends had been begging us not to stay on the boat but John was the captain. Anyway, he was right, we were snug as bugs aboard. A semi-heroic friend came swimming out with scuba tanks to check his boat and passed by and called out, “Patty and John! Come ashore for a hot meal!” and I yelled back, “COME ABOARD! I JUST MADE A BIG POT OF CHILI!” But if we had been in the same place for Hurricane Hugo a couple years later, well, all anchored boats were either driven ashore or lost out at sea. The island was totally wiped out, all the leaves were blown off all the trees, all lines down, the only form of communication was ham radio. We were here in Venezuela listening to the ham radio, how the Virgin Islands were getting hammered, when we heard a ham friend there calling the USA for help! His ham broadcast was put on live, coast-to-coast in America, as his was the only voice coming out of St. Croix! Quite a sensation! Not even the Coast Guard could get through, National Guard, nobody but our friend on his boat on the ham radio. He described the totally lawless emergency, no power, no water, no food, no law enforcement. And looting: he gave an eye-witness report of a grocery store with men on the roof, with machine guns on turrets, holding off people searching for food and water! What a scene! Many friends lost their boats. One couple was aboard their sailboat in Christiansted harbor. Get this, he was a diesel mechanic and his own motor was down; they were waiting for parts. A huge barge broke its mooring and came down on them. Their boat was one of the first to go down and was soon driven ashore, completely destroyed. All that my friend was able to grab was her purse. All else was lost. Nothing much you can do if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time. But let’s not think about that! At least they survived. What a story they had to tell. They should have written a book. Actually, I just finished reading a real super book called Isaac’s Storm: A Man, a Time, and the Deadliest Hurricane in History. This was back in 1900 when the weather bureau was just in its infancy. In their new technological age (having telegraph) they thought that nothing could go wrong. But they were dead wrong. The hurricane hit Galveston, which is quite low lying, the city was completely submerged, 2,000 lives lost. The weather bureau had thought the storm had tracked north up the Atlantic coast! They refused to believe Cuban reports, thought that they were not a reliable source of information! It’s really quite an exciting book, as good as The Perfect Storm if you like that sort of read. Actually, I had to put it aside for a few days, was disturbed by the accounts of bloated bodies floating by, but couldn’t resist going back and finishing the book. It is quite a ride. But now is not the time to read it…. —Continued on page 45

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I’m sitting at the nav station, feeling like an intruder. Forward, heaps of cushions, lines, sails, and crumpled yellow slickers spill out of the V-berth. Sunlight, shining through the forehatch, glances off the cover of a tattered magazine. Lady Di’s tantalizing eyes, blurred by saltwater. In the main salon, chart drawers tilt down, half open, revealing a Tri-Ominos board game, a Caribbean cruising guide, starfinders, and stacks of universal plotting sheets with faded compass headings. The port settee sags beneath sea boots, wadded shirts, an up-ended radar screen and boxes stacked to the overhead. Stained-glass cabinet doors stand open. Inside, a pair of sunglasses stares back at me. It was okay to go aboard, some had said; she’s for sale. Still, I’m uneasy amid the clutter. I lift the nav table lid and scan the contents. A stack of color snapshots on top of scattered black-and-white documents. Two men and a woman, their arms draped around each other in giddy, choreographed poses. Cliffs in the background. Cobblestone streets. Rocky coastlines. The Mediterranean, maybe… Greece, Yugoslavia. I rush through the stack of photos, dealing captured moments like a deck of cards. In the corner, two Customs receipts. The crew names are smeared. They cleared BVI on January 21st, 1987, en route to St. Vincent. Then Montserrat on the 27th. They must have cleared here, in St. Lucia, but the receipt is missing. The galley is a mess. Skewed spice racks, overturned pots, knives and forks thrown about like pick-up sticks. A bowl with dried bits of vegetable soup. At my feet, an empty El Diego cigar box rests against a manual bilge pump stuck down in a foul black ooze. I scoot aft, into the master’s cabin. More disarray, more clothes and lines coiling their way into dark recesses. Hydraulic steering, a disassembled vane. A pink headband with the scent of cologne. Suddenly a shadow passes overhead. “She’s a Berthon.” A lazy British accent calls from the finger dock. I step up the ladder and shade my eyes. “Good morning,” I say. “She’s what?”

Stained-glass cabinet doors stand open. Inside, a pair of sunglasses stares back at me A tan man in baggy jeans, his watch cap tilted toward brackish red eyes, gestures toward the manufacturer’s placard on the cabin. “A Berthon,” he says. “A real passage-maker she is.” I squint, trying to read the worn letters: Berthon Boat Co., Ltd., Lymington, England, 1972, Number 966. Yank that I am, I do not know the name. Still, I can sense a pedigree. A double-headsail rigged ketch, about 48 feet, with a long, graceful entry. Gentle tumblehome. Names I know but don’t know, each darkened by time and dust: Brooks & Gatehouse electronics; a Pinta autopilot; Morse cockpit engine controls; a Camper-Nicholson teak wheel; spars by Proctor, sails by Howe & Bainbridge; a Walker & Sons taffrail log; a Sestrel compass atop a binnacle by Henry Brown & Son, Ltd., Barking & London. It’s been 20 years. Are they still in business, the fathers and sons? The Englishman is gone. I step to the dock and walk away, glancing back at her name: Stargazer, Southampton. She’s been sitting here, someone had said, for two years. I walk on, feeling her presence behind me. Nearby, cockpit conversation drifts from well-groomed Beneteaus. I think of her one last time, and for a moment I hear in my mind a haunting, familiar refrain: There’s a somebody I’m longing to see… I hope that he… turns out to be… someone who’ll watch over me.

JANE GIBB

2008 89’ Catana €4.900.000

Someone to Watch Over Her

CALENDAR

OCTOBER 3 5–7

Public holiday in St. Lucia (Thanksgiving Day) Viva Regatta (dinghies and windsurfers), Bayahibe, Dominican Republic. (809) 780-0466 7 – 13 45th Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.com 9 - 18 Interline Regatta, BVI. www.moorings.com/vacation-options/regattas 12 Public holiday in the Bahamas (Discovery Day) and Belize (Pan American Day) 13 Virgin’s Cup Race, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club (RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, sailing@royalbviyc.org, www.royalbviyc.org 17 Public holiday in Haiti (Anniversary of the Death of Dessalines) and Jamaica (National Heroes’ Day) 19 St. Lucia Billfish Tournament. www.stluciabillfish.com 20 – 27 49th Port Antonio Int’l Marlin Tournament, Jamaica. www.jamaicasportfishing.com 21 Public Holiday in Curaçao (Antillean Day) 22 Public holiday in the BVI (St. Ursula’s Day) 25 Public holiday in Grenada (Thanksgiving Day) 27 Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (Independence Day) 27 5K SUP Paddle for the Cure, Isla Verde, Puerto Rico. www.fs-pr.com 27 - 28 World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com 27 - 28 Trafalgar Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org 27 - 3 Nov Bitter End Pro-Am Regatta, Virgin Gorda, BVI. Bitter End Yacht Club (BEYC), www.beyc.com 29 FULL MOON

1

FREE

Caribbean Compass On-line

FREE

www.caribbeancompass.com

599 000 € 259 000 € 100 000 US$ 179 000 € 179 000 € 89 000 € 49 000 €

CATAMARANS

Lagoon 500 - 2011 3 Cabins - Like New Lagoon 470 - 2002 3 Cabins - New Engines Lagoon 410 S2 - 2003 - Owner Version

550 000 € SOLD 220 000 €

ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 775-4803 yachts@islands.vi www.stthomasyachts.com 55’ 2006 DynaCraft MY 3 strms, 700HP Cats, $550,000

Sail

Miss Goody 43’ 1987 Marine Trading Sundeck, Washer/Dryer $65,000

35’ 38’ 43’ 52’

1989 1967 1976 1958

Island Packet Sloop, excellent Cond. Le Comte, Northeast 38, classic, excellent cond. Gulfstar, Yanmar 75HP,low hrs. AP, Alden Design, fully equipped Exc. Cond.

26’ 40’ 30’ 55’

1997 2002 1974 2006

Grady White, cuddy cabin, twin Yamahas Corinthian 400, Twin Yanmars, Express Cruiser Fales Trawler Perkins Diesel PH Dyna Craft MY Fully Equipped

$110,000 $ 78,500 $ 45,000 $120,000

Power $ 25,000 $250,000 $ 37,000 $550,000

Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale www.stthomasyachts.com

PAGE 41

All information was correct to the best of our knowledge at the time this issue of Compass went to press — but plans change, so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name and contact information of the organizing body to sally@caribbeancompass.com

MONOHULLS

Amel 54 2008 full options Amel Super Maramu 2000 Superb Beneteau Oceanis 500 - 1988 Charter version Hunter Marine - 2007 - Private boat full options Beneteau 50 - 2007 Owner Version DUFOUR 385 - 2005 - ATTRACTIVE PRICE Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY 37 - 1996 - Owner boat

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Public holiday in Antigua & Barbuda (Independence Day) and Haiti (All Saints’ Day) 1–4 Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. www.triskellcup.com 2 Public holiday in Haiti (All Souls’ Day) 2-4 Foxy’s Cat Fight (catamaran races), Jost van Dyke, BVI. http://foxysbar.com 3 Public holiday in Dominica (Independence Day) 4 Public holiday in Dominica (Community Day of Service) 4 Caribbean 1500 rally departs from Virginia, USA to Tortola, BVI. www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 5 - 10 BVI Charter Yacht Show. www.bvicrewedyachts.com/boatshow 9 – 11 St. Croix International Regatta. www.stcroixyc.com. See ad on page 12. Discover Caribbean Series (Part One), Ponce, Puerto Rico. 9 – 11 www.discoverpyfc.com 9 – 11 Carriacou Photo Festival. info@carriacouphotofestival.com 10 SOL Optimist Regatta, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club (SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com, www.smyc.com 10 Funfish Tournament, Trinidad. http://ttgfa.com/events 10 - 11 Pete Sheals Memorial Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org 10 - 11 Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club (JHYC), Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, regattas@jhycantigua.com, www.jhycantigua.com 10 - 14 Golden Rock Regatta, St. Maarten to Statia. www.goldenrockregatta.com 11 - 15 Dec Spotlight St. Maarten. www.smmta.com 13 Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Diwali) 14 - 18 St. Barth Cata Cup (F18 catamarans). www.stbarthcatacup.com 16 – 18 Discover Caribbean Series (Part One), Ponce, Puerto Rico. www.discoverpyfc.com 17 Round Tortola Race, BVI. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org 17 - 18 Barbados J/24 Match Racing Championships. www.sailbarbados.com 18 Public holiday in Haiti (Battle of Vertieres Day) 18 Classic Transat to Barbados departs France. www.transatclassic.com 19 Public holiday in Belize (Garifuna Settlement Day) and Cayman Islands (Remembrance Day) 23 Public holiday in Montserrat (Liberation Day) 23 - 25 Course de l’Alliance, St. Martin. www.coursedelalliance.com See ad on page 45 24 - 25 BVI Schools’ Regatta. RBVIYC, www.rbviyc.org 25 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) starts, Canary Islands to St. Lucia. www.worldcruising.com/arc 25 Pirogue Festival, Man O’ War Bay, Tobago 25 Public holiday in Suriname (Republic Day) 28 FULL MOON 30 Public holiday in Barbados (Independence Day)

Lagoon 410 S2 - 2006 Charter Version - 4 Cabins / 4 heads 2* 40 HP 160 000 €

OCTOBER 2012

NOVEMBER

AMEL 54 2008 110 HP Volvo! . Genset . Water Maker Air Cond Full options 1 Year Amel Warranty - Like New 599 000 €

Caribbean Compass Market Place CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE Land and houses for sale For full details see our website: www.carriacou.net or contact Carolyn Alexander at Carriacou Real Estate Ltd e-mail: islander@spiceisle.com Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals & Property Management on Carriacou

MID ATLANTIC YACHT SERVICES

Providing all vital services to Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging EU-VAT (16%) importation Duty free fuel (+10.000lt)

TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 mays@mail.telepac.pt www.midatlanticyachtservices.com

Marine Electrics

Watermakers • rare exotic arts + crafts • jewelry • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts for your boat, home + friends young street st. george's grenada just steps from the carenage

tel: (473) 440-2310

Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053 yescaraibes@hotmail.com

fisher@caribsurf.com

Voiles Assistance Didier and Maria

LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) located at Carenantilles dockyard Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Saturday by appointment tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 42

PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES

TechNick Ltd. Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of stainless steel and aluminium items. Nick Williams, Manager Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada technick@spiceisle.com

NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising.

Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 www.neilprydesails.com

FLAGS WIND CARTE PDF

Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner Tuesday to Saturday Sunday Brunch 11.30 - 14.30 Reservations recommended Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 Situated on the South Side of Tyrrel Bay. Bar open all Day

Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Use our new Dinghy Dock

continued on next page

Caribbean Compass Market Place #ONSUMABLES WIND CARTE PDF

ROGER'S OUTBOARD SERVICE St. Lucia

BEQUIA Marine/Land Mechanical Service

OFFERS PROMPT AND EFFICIENT REPAIRS AND SERVICING OF ALL MAKES OF OUTBOARD ENGINES. WE PICK UP AND DELIVER TO AND FROM RODNEY BAY MARINA. ALSO AVAILABLE ARE PRE-OWNED RECONDITIONED OUTBOARD ENGINES.

Moorings available Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 VHF 68 “KMS�

CALL ROGER AT (758) 284-6050

E-mail: kerrymarineservices@hotmail.com

• Diesel / Outboard repair • Welding / Electrical • Refrigeration

GRENADINES SAILS & CANVAS • BEQUIA •

Rigging

NEW SAILS, SAIL REPAIRS, U/V COVERS FOAM LUFFS, BIMINI, DODGERS AWNINGS, DINGHY COVERS TRAMPOLINES,STACKPACKS & LAZY JACK SYSTEMS

Shipchandler Electricity Electronic www.caraibe-marine.fr contact@caraibe-marine.fr Tel: +(596) 596 74 80 33 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05

e-mail: gsails@vincysurf.com

Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat, Antifouling, Thinners PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA Tel: 784 458 3319 • Fax: 784 458 3000 Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com

“IF WE DO NOT HAVE IT, WE WILL GET IT� GOLDEN HIND CHANDLERIES LTD. WICKHAMS CAY II - NEXT TO THE MOORINGS TEL: 1 284 494 7749 FAX: 1 284 494 8031 EMAIL: GHC@SURFBVI.COM

• SPRAY PAINTS • ROLLERS • BRUSHES • TOOLS •

TRANSPORTATION SERVICES “Your Satisfaction is Our Rewardâ€? 17 years serving western Puerto Rico's cruising community Affordable, bilingual and personalized services: • Customs & Immigration (CBP) • Parts & Repairs, Dry Dock, Mail services • Medical & Vet services, Provisioning & Mall trips • Airport Transfers (Aguadilla, SJU, PSE, MAZ), Car Rentals, etc.

VHF: Channel 16 (Rolling Thunder) Phone: (787) 519-3177 rollingthunder9704@yahoo.com

GOLDEN TASTE RESTAURANT & BAR

Genuine local and international cuisine right in the heart of Gros Islet For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792

continued on next page

PAGE 43

• CLEANING SUPPLIES •

appointed agents in St. Vincent & the Grenadines for

• NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS •

BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD

ONE STOP SHOP FOR ALL YOUR BOAT’S NEEDS!

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

• FILLERS • STAINLESS FASTENERS • ADHESIVES •

VHF Ch16/68

OCTOBER 2012

Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings)

LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE

ROLLING THUNDER

KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES

Caribbean Compass Market Place Adventures in the Trade Wind “A charming history of yacht chartering”

RICHARD DEY RichardDey.com

Selected Bequia Poems

OCTOBER 2012

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

PAGE 44

“Literate, accessible, great!”

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Book it now: tom@caribbeancompass.com or contact your local island agent

before

after

Available Available at at Caribbean Caribbean Chandleries Chandleries or or

SpotlessStainless.com

We’re on the Web! Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com

☛ REMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass!

—Continued from page 39 …Readers’ Forum Okay, hunker down and remember the power of prayer. The hurricane could just keep heading west. They are so fascinating as they are so unpredictable. But we are the new age of technology, right? Love, Patty “OVER” ACTIVITY? Dear Compass, Why in this day of the 21st century communications do we still use “over” to signify the end of a radio transmission? “Over” was used in the days of HF/AM communications, where reception was sometimes so bad due to static, weak signals, and especially a combination of both, that it was sometimes impossible to hear when a station has stopped transmitting, hence the word “over” was introduced to be used at the end of a transmission. Today, AM communications are a thing of the past. VHF/FM and SSB are the primary means of radio communications for marine, land mobile, etcetera. With marine VHF/FM communication you always know when someone has stopped transmitting, either by the tone of their voice, but definitely by the end-of-transmission “chirp” that always occurs when the microphone button is released at the end of a transmission. So why do we still use “over”? Habit? We were told to? Or we just plain follow what we hear others doing, without even thinking why we do it? If we do not use “over” after a transmission, does that mean that the other party will not get the message? That has never happened. Even on repeaters, which always have some sort of tone device to signify the end of a transmission, some of us still use “over”. Can we just put on our thinking cap for a moment and hopefully come to the conclusion that “over” has no place in modern radio communications? Even young kids are heard using “over”, obviously being taught by their parents to do so. Here is a good one: “What time are you coming over, over”. And here is another one: “My telephone number is 555 5555 over”. Over what? A good marine radio operator, or any good radio operator for that matter, should always call the station he wishes to communicate with, twice, followed by his own call sign, i.e. “Alpha One, Alpha One — Bravo Two”. This is to ensure that if Alpha One missed the beginning of the call, he will certainly hear the “Alpha One — Bravo Two”. Just my two cents worth. Leroy A.M. Baptiste, “Stevens One” Grenada

Breaking News: La Course de l’Alliance 2012 will be Different! The 9th Edition of the La Course de l’Alliance Regatta, November 23rd through 25th, will see exciting changes. The popular regatta was originally the initiative of Marina Fort Louis and organized under the sanction of the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. This year, for the first time, SMYC will take on the full organization. Marina Fort Louis remains the primary sponsor of the event, with long-time sponsors including Budget Marine, Windward Island Bank, Siapoc Saint Martin Yacht Charters and MP Yachting continuing their support.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Challenging and fun courses take you to Saint Martin, Sint Maarten, St. Barth’s and Anguilla over the course of three days. The yacht clubs of these islands work together to organize starts and finishes at the different destinations. The regatta is open to classes including monohull cruising, monohull racing and multihull. After each race day, a dinner gathering provides time for relaxation, camaraderie, evaluating the day’s race and planning strategies for the next day. Registration and the skippers’ briefing are at the Yacht Club Marina Fort Louis Restaurant on November 22nd. The 23rd is the first race, from Simpson Bay to St. Barths. Saturday takes the participants from St. Barths to Anguilla. The 25th is a race back to Simpson Bay from Anguilla. Prizegiving and party are at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club at 6:30PM on the Sunday evening. For more information see ad on this page.

OCTOBER 2012

Dear Compass Readers, We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. We do not publish individual consumer complaints or individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: sally@caribbeancompass.com or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ, Bequia VC0400, St. Vincent & the Grenadines

—Continued from page 15 …Regatta News If you have never been to a dinghy concert before, put this date in your diary and try it! The regatta’s match racing was such a success last time that it has been moved to the Saturday so more spectators can watch the action. The Friday and Sunday will see the fleet racing with two races each day. All races will either start or finish in Clarkes Court Bay. For more information see ad on page 13.

PAGE 45

CLASSIFIEDS MISC. FOR SALE

SERVICES

SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean.com/specials.htm

YACHT DELIVERIES International blue water. Experienced captain/ crew, USCG 100 ton licensed, power and sail. Capt. Louis Honeycutt, experienced and reliable. Tel: (757) 746-7927 E-mail: info@247sailing.net www. 247sailing.net

FOR SALE

1981 CAPE DORY 30 22.000 US 1982 CATALINA 32 9.900 US 1980 BISCAY 36 16.000 US 1997 BENETEAU 36CC 49.900 US 1987 IRWIN 44 MK II 109.000 US 1986 OYSTER 435 135.000 GBP 1978/2000 FORMOSA 56 199.000 US 2009 HUNTER 45DS 229.000 US E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. com Tel (758) 452 8531

HARBOR TUG 30.5M, Built Rotterdam 1981, 2574hp twin screw, 30T bollard pull. Lying Trinidad. Tel: (868) 6252927 E-mail info@maritimepreservation.net

23’ FORMULA w/cuddy cabin, 200hp Yamaha. US$18.000 Tel: (784) 493-3076 E-mail: bd.will@hotmail.com

PAGE 46 CARIBBEAN COMPASS OCTOBER 2012

63FT DYNAMIQUE. An elegant sailing yacht, she combines exceptional cruising and sailing performance with stylish, comfortable living areas. Built 1985 - refitted 1998 and 2008. Lying Bequia. E-mail: clairetabor@hotmail.com Tel: (784) 432-5201/457 3377 34' IRWIN CITATION 1984 Want to go cruising now? She is ready!! Owner looking for bigger boat. Yanmar 3GMF. New sails 2008. mast and rigging 2009, bimini and dodger 2008. Mack Pack 2008. Electronics E 80 Raymarine depth satellite weather plot finder GPS. Icon VHF. Solar panels 290 watts, wind generator AIRX400, 4 group 27 batteries 2012. St Croix davits, refrigerator, freezer,water heater (brand new) Fuel 32 gal, water 85. Propane 3 burner stove w/ oven. All safety gear, spare parts. St. Croix. U$30,000 Mark, Tel: (340) 514-8883

IRWIN 37' CC KETCH 1981 Total upgrades, turn key condition, lying Carriacou US$49,000 E-mail: idehideh@gmail.com Tel: (473) 459-7220

SAILBOAT PROPS 3 blade 13" to 22" Winches, Barlow, Barient from US 250 Westerbeke 12,5KW best offer. Raymarine Instruments ST60/Radar/Chtplotter Aries Wind Vane E-mail: Yachtsales@dsl-yachting. com Tel: (758) 452 8531

PROPERTY FOR SALE

27’ WELLCRAFT NOVA Cuddy cabin, 2x200 hp Yamaha, low hrs. Runs good as is, where is, no trailer. US$ 26,000. E-mail: abel@ vincysurf.com Tel: (784) 528-8989

GRADY WHITE 306 BIMINI 30.5’, 2000, center console 2x250 Yamahas, 306gls. gas, 48gls water, shwr/head. Suitable for fish/dive/tour. Fastload 6 wheel aluminum trailer included. For more info.Tel: (784) 493-9720

55FT. WILLIAM TRIPP SR. YAWL built by John de Wood, in beautiful condition US$300,000 Tel: (473) 415-0837 E-mail: danny_donelan1@hotmail.com

48 PRIVILEGE bar/restaurant/ dive/sunset trips, etc. Lying Grenada. 50k Euro Tel: (473) 410-9602 E-mail: sailfunn@hotmail.com

SEA RAY 550 SEDAN BRIDGE 1992 fast motor cruiser. Twin MTU's @ 645 hp each with 1,100 hrs. 15kw W/Beke genset, air/ con, 3 cabins/2 heads, big salon with refitted galley, big fly-bridge with bbq. Great liveaboard. Based Grenada. Huge price reduction to £125,000 E-mail: phillthomas@hotmail.co.uk Tel: (473) 449 - 9537

40’ SEARAY EXPRESS Sleeps 6, 2X350hpCaterpillarsUS$90.000. Tel: (784) 493-3076 E-mail: bd.will@hotmail.com

35’ MAINSHIP Open Bridge, 2x300hp Detroit Diesel 7.6kw Westerbeke Gen Asking US$65,000, OBO Offer. Tel: (784) 493-3051 Email: crayfishwc@ gmail.com BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD Tel (868) 739-6449 www.crackajacksailing.com

Prout Quasar Espace 50 ‘ “Star Trek” is for sale –the time has come to swallow the anchor! She is lying in Tobago, has two Yanmar 77HP engines, Brunton Autoprops, near 200 gallons water and diesel, 7.5 KW Fischer Panda , workshop, 2 hydraulic anchor windlasses, 3 en-suite double cabins, workshop, Ratheon 4’ radar / chart plotter plus many other items. US$149,000 o.n.o. Peter@PeterWestbury.com or (868) 680 5717

RUSH 10 CATAMARAN 2005, L10.09m, Beam 5.5m,1.5Ton, sail area 50 sq.m €30,000 E-mail: velasquez.manu@ gmail.com

CARRIACOU LAND, Lots and multi-acre tracts. Great views overlooking Southern Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay. www.caribtrace.com

BEQUIA - CLIFF’S FINE WOODWORKING for yacht or home www.bequiawoodwork.com Tel: (784) 431-9500 E-mail cliffduncan234@gmail.com

RENTALS LA POMPE, BEQUIA Large 2 bedroom house and/or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 email: louisjan@vincysurf.com

GRENADA Approx. area 150,000 sq/ ft (3 acres, 1 rood, 19 poles). US$1 per sq/ft. Located at The Villa in Soubise, St. Andrews, 1 1/2 miles from Grenville by road and 1/2 mile from Soubise beach. Eastern section cultivated with various fruit trees; western section wooded. Telfor Bedeau Tel: (473) 442-6200

JAMES WHARRAM 47 "ARIKI" 1998, Lying Carriacou E-mail: barbara.greenwood13@ gmail.com

☛ REMEMBER to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in Compass!

42' TARTAN S&S 1982 Ocean ready, auto pilot, furler, stackpack, 50hp Yanmar recently serviced, new batteries,12' dinghy and engines. US$85,000 lying Trinidad E-mail: nicoleintrinidad@yahoo.com Tel: (868) 315-5289/735-0999

CLASSIFIEDS

WANTED

US 50¢ PER WORD

MARINE TECHNICIAN WANTED marine engineering co. in Grenada is seeking skilled technicians with working experience in marine diesel engines, electrical, electronics, watermakers, wind generators, AC and refrigeration. Ideal for cruiser or independent tech. Please email CV to: enzamarine@ spiceisle.com

Include name, address and numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are US$10. Pre-paid by the 10th of the month. email: classifieds@caribbeancompass.com

www.caribbeancompass.com

ADVERTISERS INDEX ADVERTISER

LOCATION

Adventures in the Trade Wind C/W Aero Tech Lab C/W Art & Design Antigua Art Fabrik Grenada Assurances Maritimes Antilles Martinique B & C Fuel Dock Grenada Barefoot Yacht Charters SVG Bay Island Yachts Trinidad Bequia Marina SVG Bequia Venture SVG Budget Marine Sint Maarten Business Development Co. Trinidad BVI Yacht Sales Tortola Camper & Nicholsons Grenada Caraibe Marine Martinique Caraibe Marine Martinique Caraibe Yachts Guadeloupe Caribbean Marine Electrical Trinidad Caribbean Propellers Ltd. Trinidad Caribbean Rigging C/W Clippers Ship Martinique CrackaJack Trinidad Craig Cat Corporation USA Curaçao Marine Curaçao

PG# ADVERTISER

MP 39 MP MP 19 31 29 41 31 MP 2 6 40 47 18 MP 41 MP MP 15 MP MP 25 27

LOCATION

PG# ADVERTISER

De Big Fish Grenada MP Dockwise Yacht Transport Martinique 17 Doolittle's Restaurant St. Lucia 34 Down Island Real Estate Grenada MP Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola 4 Doyle's Guides USA 32 Echo Marine - Jotun Special Trinidad 20 Edward William Insurance International 39 Electropics Trinidad MP Food Fair Grenada 39 Free Cruising Guides C/W 37 Gittens Engines Trinidad MP Golden Hind Chandlery Tortola MP Golden Taste St. Lucia MP Gourmet Foods SVG 34 Grenada Marine Grenada 21 Grenadine Air Alliance SVG 33 Grenadines Sails SVG MP Iolaire Enterprises UK 32/39 Island Water World Sint Maarten 48 Johnson Hardware St. Lucia 24 Kerry’s Marine Services SVG MP Le Course de L'Alliance St. Maarten 45 LIAT C/W 9

LOCATION

Lucy Boat Antigua Mango Bowl Regatta St. Lucia Marc One Marine Trinidad Marina Pescaderia Puerto Rico Marina Santa Marta Colombia Marina Zar-Par Dominican Rep Marine Solar Tec Panama Maritime Preservation Ltd. Trinidad McIntyre Bros. Ltd Grenada Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores Multihull Company C/W Neil Pryde Sails Grenada Northern Lights GeneratorsTortola Off Shore Risk Management Tortola Ottley Hall Marina, Shipyard SVG Perkins Engines Tortola Porthole Restaurant SVG Power Boats Trinidad Red Frog Marina Panama Renaissance Marina Aruba Roger's Outboard Service St. Lucia Rodney Bay Marina St. Lucia Rolling Thunder Puerto Rico Sea Hawk Paints C/W

PG# ADVERTISER

MP 13 MP MP 10 35 36 22 39 MP 40 MP 14 37 21 7 MP MP 26 11 MP 8 MP 16

LOCATION

PG#

Simoust Charters St. Maarten MP Slipway Restaurant Grenada MP South Grenada Regatta Grenada 13 Spice Island Marine Grenada 23 SpotlessStainless USA MP Squals and Rainbows C/W MP St. Croix Regatta St. Croix 12 St. Thomas Yacht Sales St. Thomas 41 Sunbay Marina Puerto Rico 5 Sunsail Marine Center SVG 28 Tank and Fuel Trinidad 38 Technick Grenada MP Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada MP Tobago Cays Marine Park 31 Trade Winds help wanted C/W 40 Turbulence Sails Grenada 20/ MP Velocity Water Services SVG MP Venezuelean Marine Supply Venezuela MP Voiles Assistance Martinique MP West Palm Hotel Trinidad MP WIND Martinique MP Xanadu Marine Venezuela 35 YES Martinique MP MP = Market Place pages 42 to 44

CW = Caribbean-wide

Port Louis Marina, Grenada

Where you can choose your own lifestyle

OCTOBER 2012

With that rare combination of world-class facilities and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean ambiance, Port Louis Marina is the perfect base for a summer of festival, fun or taking it easy. It’s your choice. › Fresh water and electricity › Black and grey water pump out › Free broadband Internet › 24-hour security › Haul-out, technical and maintenance facilities nearby › Bar, restaurant and swimming pool on-site › Berthing assistance › Chandleries and provisioning services › Only five miles from the international airport

WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM ABU DHABI | ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | WEST INDIES

Size in feet

Daily

Weekly

Monthly

Annual $/Berth

32

$0.82

$0.74

$0.37

40

$1.03

$0.93

$0.46

$4,812 $7,519

50

$1.13

$1.02

$0.50

$10,339

60

$1.24

$1.11

$0.56

$13,534

75

$1.44

$1.30

$0.64

$19,737

80

$1.75

$1.58

$0.79

$25,565

100

$1.80

$1.63

$0.81

$32,896

130

$2.25

$2.03

$0.99

$54,983

150

$2.40

$2.16

$1.05

$65,700

Rates valid 1st June – 30th November inclusive All rates (other than annual) are US$/foot/day. Electricity and water are charged for separately. Catamarans are charged at 1.25 times the standard rate.

PAGE 47

Not surprising, when there’s so much going on during the summer – pageants, parades, carnival and regattas – but also beautiful secluded coves and beaches where you can get away from it all and just relax, on the water or under it.

To add a touch of carnival to your sailing this summer, contact Port Louis Marina on +1 (473) 435 7431 or email reservations@cnportlouismarina.com for a personalised quote.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Located safely under the hurricane belt at 12° north, and at the gateway to the Grenadines, the ‘Spice Island’ of Grenada is fast becoming the summer Caribbean destination for yacht owners.

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago