Openskies | January 2011 by Motivate Media Group

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

MACY GRAY

ALISON MOYET

JOOLS HOLLAND THE SKYWARDS DUBAI INTERNATIONAL

JAZZ FESTIVAL

MAY 2010 JANUARY 2011

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Message from HH Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al-Maktoum Chairman and Chief Executive – Emirates As we ring in the New Year, it is always valuable to reflect back on the year that’s passed. In 2010, we celebrated our 25th anniversary. During this quarter century Emirates has grown from a fleet of two aircraft in 1985 to become a leader in global aviation, with 152 wide-bodied aircraft that includes 15 A380s, the largest fleet of the super-jumbos in the skies. We have achieved our monumental success through a combination of innovation, calculated strategic risk and hard work. This hard work has paid off once again when, despite the continued uncertainty in the global financial markets, Emirates had a very successful year ending March 2010 with 416 per cent growth resulting in a US$964 million profit. Maintaining the trend our half-yearly figures for 2010-11 show continued growth, up 351 per cent compared to the same period in the previous year. In 2010, we continued to expand our network, launching flights to Tokyo, Prague, Amsterdam, Madrid, Al Medinah and Dakar. Emirates also expanded services, including opening a new lounge in Shanghai and launching A380 flights to Beijing. In addition, we also began servicing our Manchester route with the A380 – the world’s most northerly deployment of the super-jumbo. With one of the youngest fleets in the air, we continue to build our fleet for tomorrow as evidenced by ordering 32 Airbus A380s and 30 Boeing 777-300ERs in the summer of 2010. These aircraft will all be online by 2017, which means many more exciting destinations are in store for you. Early this year we will begin flying to Basra and Geneva, with additional routes to be announced very soon. Moving into 2011 and Emirates’ next quarter century, our innovation and growth will continue. Emirates, currently the second largest airline in the world in available seat kilometres, is on track to become one of the world’s largest airlines. It is you, our valued customers, who made all of this possible. As Emirates continues on its strong growth trajectory, I would like to thank you for your support during our first 25 years and reaffirm Emirates’ commitment to providing you with world-class air travel. We will continue to provide superior service and award-winning entertainment so that your journey is both special and memorable. Wishing you and your family a prosperous 2011,

Ahmed bin Saeed Al-Maktoum

Contents JANUARY 2011

Features 27 IF IT’S TOO LOUD, YOU’RE TOO OLD Jools Holland, Alison Moyet and Macy Gray are just some of the big names that are headlining the ninth Skywards Dubai International Jazz Festival this year. BY NICK RICE

37 SIX STRING WONDER The guitar, in all its various guises, is the world’s most popular musical instrument. But when it comes to the classical guitar one country immediately springs to mind: Spain. BY MARTIN GANI

43 MAN WITH A MISSION Ecotourism is all the rage today. But long before it became a buzzword Doug Trent was pioneering sustainable tourism that benefits local communities. BY COLIN BARRACLOUGH

48 NEW WAVE First there was film, then music and now it is water sport that is propelling the Moroccan town of Essaouira to the tourism forefront. BY SYLVIA SMITH

January 2011

Regulars 8 12 14 16 18 21 24 54 58 60 62

TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters WANDERLUST Menorca, Spain WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise WELL TRAVELLED Andrew Flintoff STYLE CENTRAL Hot Winter Style MY WORLD Chris Waddell, Athlete CELEBRITY CITY Sonia Hosni’s Alexandria 48 HOURS in Guangzhou DUBAI DIARY The Hot List COOL STUFF Laptops DEPARTURE Dambulla Caves, Sri Lanka

Emirates News 65 The latest news and information about Emirates, helpful travel tips and its global network.

16 Published for Emirates by

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE. Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060, fax:(+971 4) 2824436, e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae

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Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Editor Gina Johnson Email: gina@motivate.ae Senior Editor Guido Duken Email: guido@motivate.ae, Arabic Editor Ghoufran Fakhri Email: ghoufran@motivate.ae, Deputy Editor Nick Rice Email: nick@motivate.ae Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza Art Directors Tarak Parekh, Rehab Barham Designer Michelle Liu General Manager – Production and Circulation S Sasidharan Production Manager C Sudhakar General Manager, Group Sales Anthony Milne Email: anthony@motivate.ae Business Development Manager Nicola Hudson Email: nicola@motivate.ae Senior Advertisement Manager Jaya Balakrishnan Email: jaya@motivate.ae; Deputy Advertisement Manager Murali Narayanan Advertisement Manager Shruti Srivastava Editorial Consultants for Emirates: Editor: Siobhan Bardet Arabic Editor: Hatem Omar Deputy Editor: Stephanie Byrne Website: emirates.com INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES AUSTRALIA Okeeffe Media; Tel +61 89 381 7425, Fax +61 89 382 4850, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au CHINA/HONG KONG Emphasis Media Limited; Tel +85 22 516 1048, Fax +85 22 561 3349, advertising@emphasis.net CYPRUS Epistle Communications & Media; Tel +35 72 246 6555, Fax +35 72 276 9999, nasreenk@epistlemedia.com FRANCE/SWITZERLAND Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV Internationale Medien Vermarktung GmbH, Phone: 0049 8151 550 8959, Fax: 0049 8151 550 9180 w.jaeger@imv-media.com INDIA Media Star; Tel +91 22 281 5538/39/40, Fax +91 22 283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN Skynet Media Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977, skynetmedia@y2.dion.ne.jp TURKEY Media Ltd; Tel +90 212 275 8433, Fax +90 212 275 9228, mediamarketingtr@medialtd.com.tr UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax.com USA Redwood Custom Communications Inc.; Tel 212-473-5679 x 313 , Fax 212-260-3509, brigitte.baron@redwoodcc.com

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy, please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general, and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

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travelshorts CULTURE ICON

Bangkok’s Oasis A short boat ride from Bangkok’s busy Sukhumvit district across the Chao Phraya River lies an extraordinary wilderness known to the locals as Bang Kra Jao. There are no bridges that connect this tranquil 2,000-hectare island to the mainland, which means it can only be reached by boat. This natural isolation has played a huge role in preserving this incredible wetland that flourishes amidst Bangkok’s traffic and chaotic verve. If it wasn’t for the skyscrapers peeping out of the green in the distance it could be easily mistaken for one of Thailand’s many beautifully isolated islands. This ‘green lung’ on the doorsteps of urban Bangkok is a welcome oasis with no other major metropolis being able to boast such a vast mangrove ecosystem thriving on its doorstep.

The Merlion, the instantly recognisable imaginary creature sporting the head of a lion and body of a fish is synonymous with Singapore. The commonly seen tourist souvenir was conceptualised by the vice-chancellor of the University of Singapore as a logo for the Singapore Tourism Board. The model of the fish body was inspired by Singapore’s ancient name back when it was a thriving fishing village while the lion head stems from Singapore’s original name, Singapura, meaning ‘lion city’. Although you are likely to see Merlion sculptures in many shops, restaurants and parks, Singapore has just five official Merlion busts. The eightmeter-tall one, designed by Fraser Brunner in 1966, stands in all its glory at the Merlion Park. Tourists are often seen taking snapshots of the Merlion alongside the two-metre-tall cub statue standing behind the original statue. Another huge tourist attraction is the gigantic 37-metre-high replica standing guard over Sentosa island and two polymarble Merlions that separately gleam with pride at the Tourism Court and on Mount Faber’s Faber Point.

Superlatively Speaking

COMPLIED BY HILDA D’SOUZA

World’s Five Tallest Dams

Nurek Dam, Tajikistan The gigantic 300-metrehigh Nurek Dam is located near the border with Afghanistan. Built along the Vakhsh River, the dam houses nine hydroelectric turbines that produce 98 per cent of Tajikistan’s electricity.

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Grande Dixence Dam, Switzerland Towering 285-metres above the Dixence River in Valais canton, it ranks as Europe’s tallest dam and is also famous as the highest gravity dam in the world. Its weight, approximately 15 million tonnes, makes it heavier than the Great Pyramid of Cheops.

Inguri Dam, Georgia Built on the Inguri River this dam rises to a height of 272 metres. Completed in 1980, it is recognised as the world’s highest arch dam. The dam has a crest length of 680 metres.

Vajont Dam, Italy Completed in 1959, the 262-metre-tall Vajont Dam has been inoperative since 1963 following a massive landslide that resulted in huge flooding. The dry dam is, however, still maintained and stands as a stark reminder of engineering failure.

Tehri Dam, India Constructed on the Bhagirathi River near Tehri in Uttarakhand, this dam stands at 260 metres. Construction started in 1978 but took nearly three decades to complete, at a cost of US$1 billion.

travelshorts ART ON THE UP IN IRELAND While Dublin is making headlines for its financial instability, local artists, designers and writers are making the most of the situation. The Irish city is quietly becoming a city of pop-up art spaces, with local artists, designers and writers putting on exhibitions, gigs and plays in vacant warehouses, empty showrooms and once glitzy retail units. Local artists are renting vacant units that were unthinkable even a year ago, at dirt-cheap prices. One such venue is Basic Space. Artists from the National College of Art & Design struck a lucrative deal renting this huge complex the size of an aeroplane hangar. The artists only have to pay the electricity bills. This is the case with many vacant complexes in Dublin that are now being fashioned into multi-purpose art centres.

TRAVEL TIP CHOOSING AN E-READER Check out the file formats it supports. Make sure your e-reader is able to access a variety of e-book stores using varied formats.

CORBIS

■

ren·dez·vous 1. an agreement between two or more persons to meet at a certain time and place. 2. the meeting itself. 3. a favourite or popular gathering place.

WHEN IN ROME... In Egypt, feel free to ask for seconds when eating as it compliments the chef. In Kuwait, while visiting a local’s home, check to see if your host is wearing shoes. If they are not, you should remove yours. In Brazil, do dress well. Women who want to blend in shouldn’t dress overly formal or conservative, but should still dress elegantly. 10

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■ Decide on what kind of reading you fancy. If it’s just books then any e-reader is good enough, but for browsing newspapers and magazines it’s important that your e-reader is able to display graphics. ■ Make sure your e-reader supports the use of DRM (digital rights management) protected content. Most e-books and audio books that are available for download are copy protected.

Look out for the extra features that an e-reader may offer. The technology is constantly evolving with recent editions allowing the reader to highlight text, connect to WiFi and browse the net. ■

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wanderlust

Menorca, Spain The beautiful Balearic island of Menorca is the perfect destination for walking, riding and swimming in clear seas. It’s not just bathed in Spanish sunshine all year round but the island is also free from the onslaught of clubbers and tourists that swamp its neighbours. That’s due to the fact that this charming island with its magical landscapes and deserted beaches, many of which can only be reached on foot or by boat, is often

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bypassed by tours that offer the normal nightclubs and paellaand-chips holiday packages. Far away from the tourist trail, the island has further been safeguarded with UNESCO pronouncing it a Biosphere Reserve in 1993, protecting it against the scourge of development seen on other nearby islands. Instead Menorca is home to untouched coastlines, deep gorges and rolling fields where you’ll find some of Europe’s rarest flowers. ❖

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worldcalendar

February 2011

COMPLIED BY HILDA D’SOUZA

Highlights of global events for the month ahead.

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6, SUNDAY SUPER BOWL XLV The USA will watch an epic battle unfold at the Arlington Cowboy’s stadium in North Texas. An audience of 90,000 fans plus 150 million home viewers will follow the two teams competing for the hallowed Vince Lombardi Trophy. superbowl.com

17, THURSDAY SPRING LANTERN FESTIVAL Millions of Chinese partake in this cultural celebration that marks the end of Chinese New Year. Paper lanterns are released into the night skies as colourful costume parades with paper dragons weave through the streets. hkfastfacts.com

7-13, MONDAY SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL The Japanese city of Sapporo is transformed into an enchanting winter wonderland as snow statues and ice sculptures line Odori Park, Tsudome area and the main street in Susukino. More than two million visitors will enjoy the festival. snowfes.com/english

19-2 APRIL, SATURDAY ICC CRICKET WORLD CUP 2011 The 10th Cricket World Cup is hosted by India, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. Played in knockout stages the 14 national cricket teams will play a total of 49 matches. India and Bangladesh start the tournament in Dhaka. icc-cricket.yahoo.net/

7-13, MONDAY OMEGA DUBAI DESERT CLASSIC Noted for attracting some of the biggest names in the golfing world, this annual tournament will be played this year at Dubai’s Emirates Golf Club. Former trophy holders include Ernie Els, Tiger Woods and Colin Montgomerie. dubaidesertclassic.com

25-12 MARCH, FRIDAY FESTIVAL DE JEREZ Hailed as the world’s largest flamenco dancing showcase, the 15th edition of this celebration will be held in Jerez, Spain. Festival headliner Antonio El Pipa will present the premier showing of Danzacali at the Teatro Villamarta. jerez.es/areas_tematicas/festival_jerez

10-13, SUNDAY WORLD RALLY CHAMPIONSHIP The first leg of the World Rally Championship season gets under way in Sweden. Rally fans will turn out in their thousands to witness the skilful manoeuvres of top rally drivers battling icy terrain, limited visibility and below freezing temperatures. wrc.com

25-27, FRIDAY DARLING MUSIC EXPERIENCE Darling, on South Africa’s West Coast, will rev up for a fascinating musical fiesta. Concerts ranging from classical and contemporary chamber music to popular choir works and jazz will sound through Darling’s venues amidst the picturesque wine estates. darlingmusic.org

16-18, WEDNESDAY DESERT FESTIVAL Dressed up in their finery, revellers, musicians and folk dancers swarm the Indian golden city of Jaisalmer for the launch of its annual cultural celebration. Exciting competitions, camel races and colourful craft bazaars enliven the festivities. jaisalmer.org.uk/desert-festival.html

26-27, SATURDAY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL Highlighting the nation’s rich maritime culture and heritage this two-day celebration is held on Goolwa’s vibrant waterfront. In addition to regattas there’s great entertainment, live music and a raft of sensational local dishes. woodenboatfestival.com.au

26 January 2011

welltravelled

Andrew Flintoff

England’s former captain had his cricket career cut short by injury, but that hasn’t diminished his love for the game.

Andrew Flintoff with some young Indian fans at the Yusuf Mehar Ali school in Mumbai. The 2011 ICC Cricket World Cup is taking place in India, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh from 19 February to 2 April.

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Andrew ‘Freddie’ Flintoff began his international cricket career in 1998 and was a match-winning player for England until his official retirement last year. Unfortunately Flintoff’s career was plagued by injuries, which is how he and his family ended up moving to Dubai in 2009. “At the time Dubai was right for me professionally as well as personally. I was coming back from another operation and with all the rehab I was doing and the medical facilities in Dubai – as well as the cricket facilities – it was a no-brainer,” says Flintoff. Emirates is an ‘official partner’ of this year’s ICC 2011 Cricket World Cup, so it was only a matter of time before England’s 2005 Ashes hero crossed paths with the global airline. Emirates, as part of their tournament preparations, flew ‘Freddie’ over to Mumbai in November last year. “I love coming to India. I was fortunate enough to visit this country many times when I played for England and one thing you can’t quite grasp until you’ve experienced it is the county’s passion for cricket,” said Flintoff during his visit. “It’s fantastic to personally see all of the buzz and excitement around the World Cup.” Emirates took Flintoff to the Yusuf Mehar Ali school in Mumbai where he presented the underprivileged children with cricket equipment which he hoped would “uncover the next Sachin Tendulkar”. “It is just

incredible to come here and see the looks on the children’s faces,” said Flintoff whilst being mobbed by beaming children looking for autographs. Although he never won the trophy as a player, Flintoff feels that England is in with a “good chance” at the ICC 2011 Cricket World Cup. “It is an exciting time for the English game with some really strong talent coming through the ranks coupled with the existing experience we have in the squad,” he says. “England will be a threat but I just can’t look past India given their home advantage, although the Pakistani team is looking very strong at the moment.” Flintoff also held a clinic at the Mumbai Police Gymkhana for 30 young cricketers. “There are definitely a few players to watch here,” said Flintoff. “I’ve not done an awful amount of coaching before but it is certainly something I would like to think about moving forward.” Flintoff is philosophical about the end of his playing career. “I’d be lying if I said I didn’t miss playing cricket competitively. Cricket has given me some of the best moments of my life and I’ve been very lucky to travel the world and meet so many interesting people. But being away from the game has allowed me to focus on other areas, like this visit to Mumbai, which has been fantastic.” ❖

Chanel Keep the winter sun at bay with Chanel’s gorgeous shades. chanel.com

Jimmy Choo Get ready to embrace freezing temperatures with Jimmy Choo’s warm knee-high boots that hit the snow in style. jimmychoo.com

Dior While an overcoat is a key investment for a winter wardrobe, Dior’s animal print coat will add an instant modish appeal to your evening ensemble. dior.com

Cutting Edge Fashion and beauty essentials for a hot edge this winter season.

Antik Batik This metallic tassel scarf lends a perfect finishing touch. antikbatik.fr

Malcolm Guerre Fur choker necklace from Malcolm Guerre provides a flash of glamour to a cashmere cardigan or jumper. malcolmguerre.com

COMPLIED BY HILDA D’SOUZA

Bottega Veneta Leather is everywhere this winter and Bottega Veneta’s leather gloves cuts a smart balance teamed with a luxe blazer and winter boots. bottegaveneta.com

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whereintheworld

Chris Waddell, Athlete Chris Waddell’s world changed in 1988 when at 20 years of age the promising US skier became a paraplegic after a skiing accident and he began life in a wheelchair. He went on to master the monoski and win five gold medals at the Paralympics to become the most decorated Paralympian in history, competing and winning in both the summer and winter Paralympics. In 2009, Chris became the first paraplegic to summit the world’s highest standalone mountain, Mt Kilimanjaro, unassisted. Waddell used a handcycle to reach the summit and promote his charity foundation, One Revolution, which raises funds to bring wheelchairs to disabled Africans. Rachael Oakes-Ash caught up with Chris in his hometown of Park City, Utah.

PHOTOS: MIKE STONER

What was more exciting – winning your first gold medal or summiting Kilimanjaro? Summiting was an opportunity that we created, whereas with the gold medal the opportunity was out there, I just needed to have the right race on the right day. The gold medal was a moment in time. I often say winning it equates to a lifetime of work in the hope of a moment of brilliance. With Kilimanjaro the attack was more oblique. I had to be prepared, but I had to be prepared for everything, for things to go wrong, for an extended push, and I needed to let go of the finish line. As much as winning a gold medal will be a part of who I am for the rest of my life, the effect was as momentary as my performance. It didn’t change my life. It didn’t change the lives of others. It didn’t take on a life of its own. With the summit, I think and hope that it will take on a life of its own and that it will change lives. Do you ever get recognised when skiing? I tend to stick out in the crowd and here in Park City I am what a buddy of mine calls, ‘a small town celebrity’. The most common thing that people say to me is, “I can’t even do that on two skis”. I’m sure I’m guilty of exactly this kind of foot in mouth ignorance,

and I know that it’s meant as a compliment, but so much of what I’m working towards is finding a way so that sentiment is not valid. I want to eliminate the separation that makes people see differences. The greatest compliment I’ve had was from a Swedish pro racer and former World Cupper who said, “I like your turns”. What is the most common misconception about paraplegics? That our lives are somehow diminished – that my accident stole something. The biggest problem is that this misconception is fact in the minds of most people. Our lives are only diminished by a lack of imagination. I hope to challenge that fact so that people see me, but also so they see themselves and the limitations that they’ve put on their lives. Chris Waddell became the first paraplegic to summit the 5,895-metre-high Kilimanjaro under his own power.

How did you train for Mt Kilimanjaro? I trained about two years for the Kilimanjaro climb, though there were definitely breaks along the way. In January of 2009 I got a stomach infection that landed me in hospital for three weeks. I had to start from the January 2011

time. Modifying the vehicle was a huge part of going faster. We made it lighter. Shortened the wheelbase to increase traction and went from internal gearing to traditional bike gearing. What was everyone’s reaction when you told them what you were doing? I expected most people to tell me I was crazy. Instead most said they wanted to be involved. There were also definitely people who said I couldn’t do it. They were necessary as well. What was the reaction of the Tanzanians when you arrived ready to ‘climb Kilimanjaro’ on your handcycle? At first the porters looked at me as someone they needed to help. We built relationships with a lot of these guys and over time they looked at it as a cool but difficult endeavour.

beginning again because I’d lost all my muscle lying in a hospital bed. For training I climbed a lot of the ski areas in Park City and Crested Butte (3,000 metres in town) for altitude training. Mike Augspurger from One-Off Titanium invented the off-road handcycle with a three-wheeled version. He also built a four-wheeled prototype that we borrowed for the June 2008 scouting mission. Even with that head start it took us two years and three vehicles to refine the vehicle. A lot of our engineering was through the naked eye. My training partner, Dave Penney, and I spent a lot of time climbing and talking. His genius was turning these conversations into something that worked even when some of the engineers told us it wouldn’t. We did a scouting trip in June 2008 on the mountain. In November 2008 we returned to follow some stories for the documentary, but also did twothirds of the first day of the climb to see how our speed was matching up. Speed and the altitude were the biggest questions. We had to do about 100 metres of vertical a day to reach each successive hut on the trail. That was a tough speed for me the first 22

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Top: In 2008 Waddell and training partner Dave Penney tested a fourwheeled prototype of the handcycle. Above: Waddell summited Kilimanjaro after six and a half days of gruelling effort.

Did you ever think you couldn’t do it? On the mountain I never thought that we wouldn’t make it. Sitting in my office I often thought we should quit. My goal was always bigger than me. I wanted to use the climb as leverage to gain equality for people with disabilities. In that respect the mental side was easy. It wasn’t about me, it was just about me applying a little muscle. Money was the biggest issue as we picked the wrong time to try to raise it. My team and I made a tonne of financial sacrifices to make the trip happen. My sickness was a setback, but the biggest obstacle was tackling the financial side. Was the actual climb easier or harder than you had imagined it would be? Looking back it was more difficult than I experienced it. I was in a trance or in the zone or whatever you want to call it. Each day, each obstacle was something to be conquered. It was really hard. I realise that now when I look at the photos or the film footage, but I couldn’t realise that then because it might have been too much to comprehend. What was your first thought when you made it to the top? After six and half days of climbing, my first thought was to the mountain. It was thank you. Thank you for teaching me so much. Thank you for allowing me to reach the top. ❖

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International Presence International Presence:

celebritycities

SONIA HOSNI, MY ALEXANDRIA

Sonia Hosni, a Classics lecturer at Alexandria University and the sister of Egypt’s Minister for Culture, has written a guidebook on Alexandria.

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marked Alexandria. They still interconnect in ways that you can’t foresee. Thanks to the huge number of antiquities that have been uncovered in the past few years we don’t have enough places to put them on display. This, in turn, has resulted in the renovation of the beautiful 19th century mansions to house them. So these architectural wonders are now turning into galleries and museums. The residence of the former US Ambassador has had a refit designed by an Italian architect and it is now the National Museum with objects that tell the story of Alexandria from its earliest days. My favourite mansion is now the Jewellery Museum, which contains the gems and precious household items that characterised Egypt’s now defunct royal family. I love jewellery and there are stunning necklaces, earrings, tiaras and bracelets made from every imaginable precious stone. I like the objects that

PHOTO: RICHARD DUEBEL

The most distinctive sound of my hometown is the clip-clop of horses as they pull carriages along the Corniche. It’s a symbol of a bygone era, but Alexandria is far from living on its past glories. Naturally, the city will always be linked with its founder Alexander the Great and some believe that he is buried here. But there is so much hidden treasure in Alexandria that you would have to knock down almost every building to uncover it all. Alexandria’s sea front is one of the most spectacular along the Mediterranean and I often wonder what the famed lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, looked like all those centuries ago. Today, a continuous stream of statues, busts, huge pots and pillars are being brought up from the seabed. Even after all the centuries spent submerged they still look extraordinary. As a university lecturer in Classics I am still amazed by the key historical events that have shaped and

recount a special occasion, like the twin tiny lions that were presented to the king on the opening of Kasr El Nil Street in Cairo. They are exact copies of the two massive lions at the street’s entrance. Anyone visiting Alexandria almost inevitably heads to the new library, the Biblioteca Alexandrina. One reason is that the building is so unusual – a huge disc lying almost flat on the horizon overlooking the sea – representing the sun. One wall is covered in the various languages of the world – a reminder that the original library was said to contain all the knowledge of the ancient world. The collection of books is really remarkable and my students love doing research there. One of the library’s overlooked aspects is its rapidly growing art collection. Each year there is a sculpture symposium and none of the artworks have been bought – they are all donated. My nephew, who works there, says you can go to the library on any day of the year and there is always something new – either a travelling exhibition, a lecture, a special event or a concert. As far as concerts go I like to go to the Sayyid Darwish Opera which my brother, the Minister for Culture, had painstakingly restored. Today it is on par with the opera houses in Paris, New York or London but it was once a very dilapidated theatre. The craftsmanship is outstanding and the atmosphere very special. I go there regularly with my husband and I admire the fact that people get dressed up to hear classical music or watch an international dance company. It shows that Alexandria is a happening part of world culture. We really are spoiled for choice when it comes to entertainment as there is another spectacular auditorium in the Creative Arts Centre. The building used to be the Mohammed Ali Club, an upper class men’s preserve, but now it has been democratised and given to the people of Alexandria. They can use its performance spaces, rehearsal rooms and art studios free of charge, which is a great boost to our creative spirit. Alexandria is still a very cultured city and many artists use the Creative Arts Centre to help develop their careers, to experiment or just because they are happy amateurs who like to play music. I rarely need to go to Cairo for entertainment because we have it all here – minus the traffic of course. When I’m not working I like to go to the old quarter to shop for antiques, or browse in the very lively Zanket El Setat – a crowded shopping area for accessories and clothes. It has a Turkish section and a Moroccan souq and I have often found something very original and

WHERE TO EATAA MOHAMMED AHMED has traditional Egyptian food including excellent kebabs. It’s the best place to grab a quick lunch. +20 3 487 3576 KADOURA This local favourite is situated along the Corniche as you walk towards the fort. The food is fresh, cheap and always good. You select your fish, decide how you want it cooked and then enjoy it with rice, salad and hummus. +20 3 480 0405 THE SEAGULL If you enjoy a kitsch setting then the Seagull fits the bill. It’s inside a mock castle in the resort section of Alexandria called Agami. The food is always fresh and children enjoy the petting zoo. seagullegypt.com THE FISH MARKET This upmarket seafood restaurant offers similar fare to most of the Corniche’s fish restaurants, but with the added bonus of a cold beer or glass of wine to accompany your meal. +20 3 480 5119 WHERE TO SLEEPAA THE CECIL This centrally located hotel lies just off the Corniche overlooking the harbour and is close to the train station. The hotel was built in the 1920s and still has that classical charm. sofitel.com THE MONTAZAH SHERATON HOTEL Conveniently located near local attractions which include the Montazah Palace Gardens & Parks, The Royal Jewellery Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts. sheratonmontazah.com THE HELNAN PALESTINE Montazah Gardens is where Egypt’s president has his summer home so it’s an excellent location. It’s quiet and there’s a private beach for swimming. helnan.com WHAT TO DOA COFFEE HOUSES One of the marvellous things about Alexandria is its old traditional coffee houses. The Trianon faces the Midan Ramla and is an old favourite which was frequented by the Greek poet Cavafy. The Brazilian Coffee Store is perfect to grab a coffee on the go. No seats, just a traditional stand up bar situated in the centre of town. And Delices, my favourite for cakes and pastries, has a store at the central train station. SIGHTSEEING Take a horse-drawn carriage from outside the Cecil Hotel and drive along the Corniche to the Biblioteca Alexandrina. From there ask the driver to take you to the Sayyid Darwish Opera where you can either catch a performance or just marvel at the luxurious interior.

desirable, but you have to spend time and really look. If I want to sit and watch the world go by I head to one of the old-style Greek pastry shops-cum cafés. The coffee is excellent and it is a culinary reminder of the time when Greeks were the largest of the various populations that make up my cosmopolitan city. I believe that Alexandria proves that the legendary pyramids are merely the tip of the archaeological iceberg. Pharaonic nations, ancient Greeks, Romans, Christians and Arab dynasties have all played their part in fashioning Egypt and Alexandria. ❖ As told to Sylvia Smith January 2011

PROFILE

IF IT’S TOO

LOUD, YOU’RE TOO

OLD! As music fans across the United Arab Emirates eagerly await the ninth Skywards Dubai International Jazz Festival, Nick Rice speaks to three of the headlining stars: Mr. Music himself: Jools Holland, the acclaimed Alison Moyet and the unmistakeable Macy Gray.

January 2011

PROFILE

If you’re a big music fan you might agree that Jools Holland possibly has the world’s best job. He meets, interviews and often performs with the best musicians. From fresh new talent to globally admired legends, Holland has interviewed a neverending list of great performers since the 80s. But he still prefers to let the music do the talking. Speaking on the phone from his home in London, upbeat and amiable as ever, Holland explains: “In my interviews I’m trying to find out about the person and where they’re coming from with their music. If I’m at the piano with them, it’s sometimes easier to play what’s going on rather than talk. After all words are a very blunt instrument, so rather than bashing guests over the head with them, if you can use music it’s a lot better. You can understand 10 times more what a person is about by playing something and them singing to it.” So says the voice of experience. Holland has been in the music business for nearly 35 years, enjoying huge success both as a pianist and a presenter. He has the impressive accolade of having played with successful musicians from every decade of the 20th century and he’s made more music programmes than any other television broadcaster.

So when he has to talk and not just play, how does he approach questioning the world’s greatest musicians? “One technique I use is that of Commander Burt. He’d been the head of the Special Branch during WWII and he interviewed war criminals. He was very successful with his technique of interviewing people and when asked what he did he said, ‘Well it’s quite simple, I get the person in a room, then I gain their confidence… so I’ll say something like that’s a nice tie you have on or offer them a cigarette – and then I won’t say anything else. Nine times out of 10 the person is so desperate to unbridle themselves of whatever it is they’re holding in, it all comes out.’ So basically, if you don’t say anything the other person feels obliged to blather on.” This technique rings true with Holland’s musical sensibilities; if you leave a gap, more often than not one of the other musicians will fill it. It certainly works for him as evidenced by his BBC 2 show, Later… with Jools Holland, which celebrated its 250th show last year. Now into its 37th series it is one of the longest running, as well as the most

Left: Despite his hugely successful television career Holland remains a musician first and foremost. His latest album Rockinghorse features 19 tracks of original material, interpretations and covers. Naturally, it also features some famous collaborators.

Open Skies

respected, live music shows in TV history. Since the first show in 1992, Later has showcased musical legends such as Sir Paul McCartney, Johnny Cash, Al Green, David Bowie and Joe Strummer and been the first place on TV to introduce acts such as Arctic Monkeys, The White Stripes, Kings Of Leon and Ray Lamontagne. Holland began his career in television in the ’80s when he co-presented Channel Four’s mouldbreaking music programme, The Tube. He also made a celebrated TV history of the piano where he interviewed personal heroes such as Dr John, Little Richard and Ray Charles. The latter had a lasting effect on him. “One of the most memorable things from my interviews is what Ray Charles said to me. I met him in the ’80s and I said to him ‘Well Ray, if anybody is going to write something on your grave, what would it be?’ And he replied, ‘Well I’d say they can dislike my music, like my music, they can like Ray Charles, they can dislike Ray Charles… so long as they know I told the truth.’ I thought that was a pretty good thing and that stuck with me.” Holland was also the man approached to conduct the interviews with George, Paul and Ringo in the acclaimed Beatles Anthology documentary series. Being a Beatles fan since he was a boy, Holland relished this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. “I think they wanted someone whom they knew and trusted, and I’d worked with them before. The 30

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Above left: Holland has worked with Paul McCartney a number of times. He interviewed Paul, George and Ringo for the acclaimed Beatles Anthology. Above right: Holland is an acclaimed piano player, so it is no surprise that his interview with Ray Charles left a lasting impression on him.

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REX FEATURE

PROFILE

interesting thing was that the three of them were all telling me different things and it goes to show you that history is really so vague. I’d ask them a question about a previous event and they all had a slightly different recollection of it. Like when they met Elvis’ wife. Ringo said she was dressed in a red and white gingham dress, very lovely. Then Paul said ‘Yeah I remember she was in a black dress looking like a real Spanish beauty’, and then George said, ‘Well we were a bit disappointed because his wife wasn’t there and we wanted to meet her.’ Completely different! The great thing about talking to them though was that they, more than anybody, changed the course of 20th century music.” Holland’s television work is distinguished by its quality and longevity, but it all comes second for him. Holland is a musician who happens to be a presenter, not the other way around. A sensational pianist and a master of the boogie-woogie style, Holland has been lauded by the best. The great BB King once said, “I didn’t think anybody could play like that. Jools has got that left hand that never stops.” Discovering music as a young boy, Holland had the endearingly innocent notion that all the different genres he was listening to, from Blues and Motown to the burgeoning sound of Rock and Roll, was all being made at the same time somewhere. “I was born in 1958 so in 1968 I was young and I had Beatles, Rolling Stones and Motown records. But I was listening to all these records and at the same

PROFILE

time my mother had 78s of Bessie Smith and Jelly Roll Morton. So I was getting it all at the same time. And at that age I didn’t understand that there was a time and place difference. I just thought they were all together making records somewhere. But that innocence is okay really. When you just accept the music then it just all sounded like stuff that brings you joy.” His Uncle Dave taught Holland the rudiments of the piano at eight and as a young lad he began playing in dockside pubs in the East End of London. In 1974 at the tender age of 16, Holland formed the band Squeeze with Glenn Tilbrook, Chris Difford and later Gilson Lavis. They enjoyed massive success at home and in the US scoring huge hits with smart and catchy tracks such as ‘Cool For Cats’, ‘Up The Junction’, ‘Black Coffee In Bed’ and ‘Pulling Mussels From A Shell’. Holland played with Squeeze and also released some solo work up until 1987 when he formed The Jools Holland Big Band, which consisted of himself and drummer Gilson Lavis, who he’s now worked with for 25 years. This initial pairing has gradually evolved into today’s 20-piece Jools Holland and His Rhythm & Blues Orchestra. As well as his award-winning and eclectic BBC 2 Radio show he’s been making for the last 10 years 32

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Above: Moyet fans can catch her live in Dubai on February 16. Last year she released The Best Of Alison Moyet and this year there’s a new album in the works.

“In those days you were just getting every kind of influence without even being aware of it.”

and his ongoing television commitments, Holland still manages to tour with his band, playing 100 days of the year to over 500,000 fans at home and abroad. They are currently touring in the UK, and by coincidence, Holland’s fellow headline act at the Skywards Dubai International Jazz Festival – the remarkable vocalist, performer and songwriter Alison Moyet – is a regular guest performer for the entire tour. The two have been friends since Moyet appeared on The Tube in the ’80s and Holland remains a big fan. “Her voice is truly unique and has a blues and soul quality that fits perfectly into the Rhythm & Blues Orchestra party.” Talking to Moyet ahead of her visit to Dubai next month, the mutual appreciation is clear. “I’ve been touring with Jools for most of 2010. He’s a great bloke, he’s not beset by ego and I’ve never seen any rubbish with him. I’ve never seen him in a bad mood or being rude or unpleasant to anyone, he’s really easy going, lovely.” Moyet has had an enduring career since forming the electropop duo Yazoo in 1982 with former Depeche Mode member, Vince Clarke. Although the group had instant success and a string of hits they disbanded after less than two years together and Moyet began her solo career in 1984. Much like her friend and collaborator Holland, Moyet was exposed to a variety of different musical genres at a young age. “Being the youngest in my family I had no control over the record player. My brother was into prog rock, my sister was a soul girl, my father played French music and my mother classical, so it was all of these kinds of influences being pushed on you. I think that was one of the nice things about growing up in the ’70s, music radio was so varied. Not like it is now, all set to a demographic. In those days you were just getting every kind of influence without even being aware of it.” Surrounded by a range of music that steadily seeped into her, Moyet knew by the time she was a teenager that she was destined to sing and write songs. “I told myself it was going to happen when I was 16. I hadn’t been in the school choir or anything like that, I’d done a bit of music, I was a wind instrument player, but at 16 I joined a punk band and I was never in any doubt that I was going to do this. That was a bit of a surprise to everyone because I wasn’t a natural contender. My parents where thinking ‘this is very odd’ because they’d never heard me singing around the house. But I had no doubts that it would come right for me.” Yet although Moyet’s conviction was solid and her

PROFILE

success a just reward, her self-belief wavered and she distrusted the limelight, discovering early on that she was very much a reluctant celebrity. “In the ’80s it was a successful time but I wasn’t a comfortable pop star. It was more about sending out tendrils. Then the ’90s was a lot angrier for me because of the frustration of being pinned down. For someone like me who is very eclectic, your success can become your burden. You become known for a specific type of music. If that music is what you were making in your early 20s, before you’re even defined as a person, that can be frustrating.” The vexation she felt eventually manifested itself as an outright rejection of many aspects of the music business, and retreating behind closed doors Moyet became incredibly guarded. “A sadness for me is that I had some issues with agoraphobia and I’ve been antisocial in the past. So I’ve missed out on interesting collaborations that have been put my way but because I was in a frame of mind where I couldn’t answer the telephone that particular month. I wish I’d had the head on me that I’ve had this last 10 years. But in not having the headspace to make the most of your career, in leaving gaps, it has meant that odd things have come up that you wouldn’t otherwise expect to do. Like I had a couple of stints in the theatre, which was something I didn’t expect.” Moyet’s theatre experience, including playing Matron ‘Mama’ Morton in the West End production of Chicago, helped her overcome some long held and inhibiting neuroses. “It was incredibly cathartic, because in doing the theatre I lost my stage fright. It may sound a little trite but I learned a great technique, which is when you are facing something really scary, you project yourself and imagine yourself the next day breathing a sigh of relief. And that’s something that has really worked for me. I really don’t believe there’s any shame in failing, only shame in not trying.” It’s clear from chatting with Moyet that she’s enjoying working now more than ever and is content with her choices. “The interesting thing and what you get to understand is the things you like to listen to are not necessarily the sounds you should be making. I think this is a mistake that many young musicians make in that they are so led by their influences they forget the instrument that they are – they may be a cello trying to make a flute sound. What I listen to is mainly male voices or instrumentals, or it might be Elbow or PJ Harvey, things that are quite different to the stuff I sing myself. Above all it’s about making music that moves you, and the things that move you are going to change.” ❖ 34

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“I really don’t believe there’s any shame in failing, only shame in not trying.”

NAME: Macy Gray BORN: Natalie Mclntyre in 1970, Ohio, USA BIGGEST HIT “I wrote ‘I Try’ for my boyfriend at the time and it was just a little ditty, so when people grabbed onto it and learned the words and go crazy for it when I sing it live… well it was a huge surprise for me. I had no idea that that song would be so important to people. I love it.” INFLUENCES “I’m a huge Prince fan, and lots of Sly Stone and Stevie Wonder, Bob Marley and lots of hip hop. I grew up in a great time for music when it was a lot more diverse. So I was exposed to a lot of music, but I was an obsessive Prince fan.” INSPIRATION “I get inspired all the time. Mostly it is what I’m going through at the time, where I’m at in my love life or with my career. I could write a song every day.” CURRENTLY ENJOYING “I like the new Kanye West record.” DESIRABLE COLLABORATOR “Bob Marley or Frank Sinatra… but they’re not around.” IF I WASN’T A SINGER “I’d just be a hippy or a gypsy, travel around in a van and go from city to city, just live like that, hang out for the rest of my life”

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CULTURE

Sixng i r r t S nde Wo ’s orld n w he the , is But w ntry s e . guis ment e cou in s u n u a r o o ari al inst uitar t is Sp it v s t I l g d. sic ni ow ar, i lar mu lassicato min we kn t i u g c u i. s s The st pop to the spring uitar a in Gan mo omes iately the g Mart it c med eated eports im at cr ay, r th tod

hen you visit Spain you soon notice guitar music all around you. Strolling along the majestic Plaza Mayor of Madrid, walking down picturesque Las Ramblas in Barcelona or crossing any other city centre in Spain you’re likely to come across soulful guitar music played by capable street musicians. Enter a concert hall or even a church and you may find a local guitar virtuoso playing the Spanish composer Joaquin Rodrigo’s ever popular guitar concerto, Concierto de Aranjuez. At any flamenco show the guitar is an essential ingredient. And that’s why skilled guitar makers like Juan Santiago Canals are in demand. The thirty something, Mediterranean-looking Canals defines himself as a profesor superior de guitarra. He’s based in Poble Espanyol de Montjuic, Barcelona’s art and craft centre. People walking into his workshop see him bent over a half-finished guitar smoothing its ‘waist’ with flowing strokes. Ready-to-sell guitars hang on the wall and his workbench is cluttered with tools. “Do you want to play one?” is his standard offer after greeting a potential customer with a contagious smile.

Guitar artisans like Canals mostly work on commission. It takes about a month to make one guitar and prices can range from a few hundred to thousands of euros depending on the materials used and the reputation of the guitar maker. Canals was born in 1977 in Mar del Plata, Argentina, where he studied guitar under professionals like Ricardo González Longo. In 1986 he joined the Fine Arts Faculty of La Plata, attaining a BA degree in Guitar. He studied in master classes under Abel Carlevaro, Eduardo Fernandez and Hopkinson Smith, among other worthy guitarists/composers. From 1998 to 2000 he joined the guitar quartet of his college, performing in many prestigious venues. In 2000 he received a scholarship to study Spanish guitar music in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, and then attended the Barcelona Conservatory before launching a career in guitar making alongside performing and teaching. When it comes to guitars, he knows what he’s talking about. “I’m a second generation guitar maker,” explains Canals. “I learnt many skills from my father such as which materials to use. When it comes to wood, spruce or fir is the usual choice for the soundboard

January 2011

Below: Warian Echoe, a gifted saxophonist, has a music degree from the University of Papua New Guinea. before branching out.

or the belly as this type of wood has an elasticity ideal for prolonging the resonance created by the vibrating strings. For the rest of the body a material like rosewood is used for its opposite qualities. The hardness prevents dissipation of the sound from the back or the sides. For the neck, mahogany overlaid by ebony for the fingerboard is ideal. Ebony is very resistant to any deformation so neither embedding the frets nor the constant attack by the fingers gliding and pressing the strings over it disturbs its uniformity. Choosing the right piece of wood is no easy task. Old wood is what we look for but also that the trunk it comes from has uniform rings.” Canals is passionate about the guitar, its origins, heritage and the sheer beauty of the music it makes. “The guitar is the end result of an evolution rather than a pure invention,” says Canals. “It derives from the Persian string instrument, al-’ud, brought to Spain by the Moors who invaded and settled in Andalucia at the beginning of the eighth 38

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century.” Resembling a pear cut in half al-’ud was called laud in Spanish and it soon crossed into other European countries becoming luth in French, liuto in Italian, laute in German and lute in English. During the Renaissance the lute was the most common solo instrument in Europe just as the guitar is the most popular musical instrument today. The lute had six pairs of strings plus a single seventh, had no frets at first and was played with a plectrum rather than plucked with the fingers. In the 15th century the first step towards the modern guitar was taken when the Spaniards invented the vihuela; it looked like a guitar with a slightly curved ‘waist’ and its six pairs of gut strings could be played with the fingers or with a bow. The vihuela was heavily favoured by the upper classes but it soon had competition from a similar instrument much more popular with the ordinary people that was called la guitarra with only four pairs of strings. It was smaller and more practical than the vihuela as an accompanying instrument. The first treatise on guitar playing appeared in the

Clockwise from top left: Juan Santiago Canals is a second generation guitar maker based in Barcelona; An elastic wood like spruce or fir is used for the soundboard to prolong the resonance; The soundboard is carefully reinforced to maximise the sound; The guitar sides are made from a hard material like rosewood.

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CULTURE

Above: The lute (left) was the first step in the evolution of the guitar. The vihuela developed into the classical guitar we know today.

late 16th century, a fifth pair of strings was added and the Spanish historian Juan Carlos Amat, in his 1596 book La guitarra española de cinco cordes, makes it clear that we had arrived at the Spanish guitar in name and shape, if not in the number of strings. “By the end of the 1700s the strings became six pairs and then just six single strings appearing much like the Spanish guitar today,” says Canals. Spain’s virtuoso performer/composer Fernando Sor (1778-1839) successfully popularised the classical guitar and expanded its repertoire. Others soon followed suit. Italian Mauro Giuliani wrote for the guitar and performed his works in Vienna where he was heard by Beethoven who famously observed that the guitar was a “miniature orchestra in itself”. Violinist Niccolò Paganini and the French composer Berlioz played the guitar extremely well, and Paganini also composed many works for it. The greatest changes and refinements were brought in by Spain’s master guitar maker Antonio Torres in the middle of the 19th century when he broadened the body to amplify the sound, increased

co e n e m s ar r Fliata r malle u g tly s akes hm sligh ier c s i a h e w em dle th o han t

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the curvature of the ‘waist’, thinned the ‘belly’ for enhanced resonance and improved and strengthened the internal bracing. “One big innovation,” says Canals, “is that he also changed the tuning pegs from wood to brass, making the tuning mechanism more accurate and reliable. The Spanish guitar was thus born and remained standard to this day.” The last great innovation was the invention of nylon in 1946, and nylon strings quickly replaced the brittle and sometimes uneven gut strings. However, don’t be fooled into thinking that that the highbrow classical guitar is the same as the flamenco guitar, which accompanies the thousand or more traditional dances that Spain boasts. “Flamenco guitars are slightly smaller which makes them easier to handle,” explains Canals. “They have a scratch plate for the golpe (the knocking), have a louder sound, and the rasgueado (strumming) comes across with more clarity especially when playing a fast rhythm. The classical guitar has a larger soundboard, the note sustain is better and the sound is more mellow.” Looking around his workshop it becomes clear that the guitar is Canals’ lifelong love. Noticing my look, he smiles and asks “Do you want to play one?” I would if I could. ❖

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INSPIRATION

MAN WITH A MISSION Doug Trent is president of one of North America’s biggest wildlife tour operators. But far more importantly he has been funding community projects across South America long before ecotourism became a buzz word, reports Colin Barraclough.

Below: Doug Trent started with small conservation projects in the 1980s, which have steadily become more ambitious. He believes that effective conservation depends on the support of local communities.

Roberto Pereira steps quietly into a dense stand of Atlantic forest in Brazil’s Caratinga Biological Station, a hazy sunlight filtering through the canopy to checker the ferns that carpet the forest floor. Up ahead, a family of buffy-headed marmosets – tiny, squirrellike monkeys found only in Brazil – creep through the understorey in their search for nectar and fruit gum. Somewhere close, Pereira knows, a pack of northern muriqui, the New World’s largest primates, will be feeding on leaves and bark as they hang upside down on their prehensile tails. Born in a dusty farming village in the south-eastern state of Minas Gerais, Pereira worked for years as an unskilled manual labourer; his eyes still betray the doubt that can dog those blown through life by forces beyond their control. Within the

forest, however, his stammer eases and his uncertainty disappears. “Can you hear the scaled antbird calling? It’s endemic to Brazil,” he whispers to a small group of birdwatchers. “See the blue dacnis over there? And there’s a golden-chevroned tanager!” He points into a slight clearing among the higher branches, “and listen out for the Brazilian trogon”. Within five minutes, he has spotted more than a dozen bird species, most extremely rare and each more rainbow-coloured than the last. Pereira’s life took an abrupt turn two years ago when he attended a wildlife observation course run by US-born ecotourism operator Doug Trent. “I look at my surroundings with more care and attention now,” he says, reeling off the scientific names in Latin of the birds he has just spotted. “Before, I might

January 2011

have seen some parrots and thought little of it. Now I can tell you what kind of parrots they are, where they nest, where they’re going and why.” The mere experience of leading parties of schoolchildren or visiting birdwatchers, he says, has invested him with a newfound, quiet confidence. For Trent, 53, a Kansas native who began funding community projects in South America long before the word ‘ecotourism’ entered common parlance, Pereira’s story is typical of the benefits that communityminded tourism can bring. As president of Focus Tours, one of North America’s best-known wildlife tour operators, Trent has spent three decades guiding foreign clients through Brazil’s most spectacular wildlife reserves. Along the way, he has devoted a sizeable share of his profits to social and conservation work in nearby villages. Trent’s conservation efforts started small. In the early 1980s, shortly after taking his first clients to observe hyacinth macaws in Brazil’s Pantanal wetlands, he donated binoculars to the area’s poorly equipped anti-poaching teams. Outraged to discover large amounts of trash left by thoughtless hikers in Minas Gerais’ Serra do Cipó national park, he organised a clean-up by local schoolchildren. 44

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Quickly realising that such small but effective actions unleashed a chain of wider benefits to wildlife and to those who live close to it, he set up a charitable fund that searched out worthwhile projects and encouraged clients to donate. In 1986, he scored a notable conservation success in persuading Lerinho Falcão, a Pantanal jaguar hunter, to abandon poaching in favour of wildlife protection. “We made a deal,” says Trent. “He stopped killing jaguars and I helped him earn money from tourism. We were from different worlds, but he had the foresight to believe in the idea.” Over time, Trent helped Falcão to build a modest guesthouse, buy a fleet of safari vehicles, and train his family as English-speaking wildlife guides. Today, the family’s former cattle ranch is the 1,200-hectare Jaguar Ecological Reserve, a leading Pantanal eco-lodge that offers protection to a healthy, growing jaguar population. In 2001, Trent teamed up with Jussara Utsch, an expert in merging corporate goals with nature conservation. Together, their consultancy, Sustainable Community Development & Conservation, has advised clients in Australia, Tanzania, Uganda and Zambia on how to preserve endangered flora and fauna by providing a financial incentive for local – often poor – communities to protect the wildlife that surrounds them. The effectiveness of protecting nature by reducing human poverty hit home when Trent set up a wildlife training course for rural youths in Minas Gerais. The classes lasted just a week, yet their impact was great.

Left: Trent’s programme to train people from city favelas and poor rural villages as wildlife guides has been a resounding success. Centre: The northern muriqui is South America’s largest primate. Top: The female blue dacnis has a green body, while the male is a fluorescent blue. Above: The buffyheaded marmoset, an endangered species, is endemic to Brazil.

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INSPIRATION

“The kids were blown away the moment they first saw a beautiful bird through binoculars,” says Trent. “These were young adults who had been surrounded by wildlife all their lives, yet the immediacy of that up-close contact amazed them.” Several students have since specialised in ecology or have taken steps to become wildlife guides. Trent’s consultancy is now poised to roll out a similar programme across the entire state of Minas Gerais, a territory the size of France. Once completed, the US$1.5 million Minas Gerais Wildlife Trail will link a slew of wildlife-rich national and state parks with several private nature reserves, positioning the state alongside the Amazon, the Pantanal and Iguaçu as a world-class destination for bird and wildlife observation. Funded by Brazilian corporations, the project entails training residents of city favelas and poor rural villages as English-speaking wildlife guides, informed enough to lead groups of paying foreign nature spotters. Would-be guides are schooled for two years in ecology, natural sciences and the English language. Volunteers will be asked to help researchers compile the first comprehensive inventories of Minas Gerais’ wildlife, studies likely to result in the discovery of species of bird, reptile or mammal new to science. Trent will also develop new trails, set up wildlife observation programmes, and publish nature guides to the region. 46

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The project is broad enough for tourists to be able to book an entire vacation with communityTop left: The based companies, ensuring that money spent on giant anteater is currently listed accommodation, car rental, park visits and naturalist as vulnerable. guides stays in the area. “This is not just about Left: The tourism – it’s about community development, job Brazilian state of Mina Gerais creation, and lifting people out of poverty,” says Trent. is home to the Brazil’s staggering biodiversity makes it a maned wolf prime spot for such tourist-oriented conservation which lives in a very limited programmes. With more mammal, primate and range. plant species than any other country, along with a Right: Brazil’s bewildering array of birds, amphibians, reptiles and unique nature attracts insects, it ranks high among the 17 megadiverse thousands of countries identified by the UN’s World Conservation wildlife tourists Monitoring Centre, which together harbour some 70 annually. Trent is ensuring that per cent of the earth’s species. tourist dollars Until now, Minas Gerais has not been a popular benefit the local communities. destination for the nature inclined tourist. Visitors come instead for the exquisite colonial towns of Ouro Preto, Tiradentes and Diamantina, whose museums, bridges, fountains and Baroque churches, crammed with sacred art and gold leaf, were erected during Brazil’s 18th-century gold rush. Others know the region only for its iron ore reserves, the biggest in the world, and its mining industry. Yet the state is actually one of Brazil’s most biodiverse. With terrain ranging from desert, wetlands and savannah to dense Atlantic rainforest, it boasts some 200 of the country’s 234 endemic bird species, endangered mammals such as jaguar, puma and tapir, and many of Brazil’s 55,000 known plant species. UNESCO named its Serra do Espinhaço range of peaks and plateaus a biosphere reserve in 2005. Ten per cent of the state falls within a network of 60 national and state parks, such as the 71,000-hectare Serra da Canastra and the 100,000hectare Serra do Cipó national parks, and hundreds of private reserves, many owned by mining corporations. Of these, however, only six are

INSPIRATION

open to the public. Most of the remainder are ‘paper parks’, reserves hurriedly created after new laws prohibited the felling of Atlantic forest and obliged industrial concerns to offset environmental damage by funding conservation. Nominally protected by law, they lack the rangers, trails, campsites and management plans needed to handle visitors. “Our priority has been to protect what biodiversity is left,” says Ilmar Bastos, the state’s environment subsecretary. “We just don’t have a budget for much more than that.” The Wildlife Trail is designed to open some of these parks to tourism. Its first stage will be rolled out in Ouro Preto, a gorgeous colonial city of cobbled streets, ornate churches and handsome townhouses, named as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1980. “Ouro Preto has the potential to become a national model for protecting nature through community involvement,” said Ronald Guerra, the city’s environment secretary. “The more people know about the wildlife that surrounds them, the more they want to protect it.” Ouro Preto is ringed by wildlife rich but little AD OPEN SKIES E.pdf

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visited nature reserves, such as the 4,400-hectare Uaimií State Forest, where dense Atlantic forest provides habitat for jaguar, puma and tapir, along with spectacular birds such as manakins, hummingbirds and tanagers. Despite its accessible location, just 13 kilometres outside town, the park receives just 500 visitors a month. Within easy reach, too, are the 7,500-hectare Itacolomí State Park, dominated by its distinctively hooked, 1,772-metre peak, the rocky grassland plateau of nascent Ouro Branco State Park, scattered with the yucca-like tendrils and star-shaped flowers of vellozia bushes, and the 1,250-hectare Luís Carlos Jurovsky Tamassia Reserve, a private preserve owned by steel maker Gerdau that harbours maned wolf and the Brazilian porcupine. Trent believes that the creation of a state-wide, visitor-oriented wildlife trail will become a model for Brazil’s other biodiverse regions by helping to alleviate the poverty within them. “The Wildlife Trail has the potential to do this on a grand scale by giving the people of Minas Gerais a chance. After all,” he concludes, “they don’t get many of those.” ❖

4:15:14 PM

CMY

January 2011

CORBIS

SPORT

NEW WAVE

First there was film, then music and now it is water sport that is propelling the Moroccan town of Essaouira to the tourism forefront, reports Sylvia Smith.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUEBEL

he winds of change are blowing across the Moroccan town of Essaouira. A vibrant arts scene and a sub-Saharan music genre known as Gnawa were the first to put it on the map, but now it is the year-round trade winds that are blowing tourists into this Atlantic coast town. And as more tourists come to surf, windsurf or kitesurf it has the knock on effect of getting Moroccans into the water as well. The annual Gnaoua World Music Festival has earned Essaouira the soubriquet ‘The Woodstock of Morocco’ and the town’s link to Jimi Hendrix is celebrated in subtle and not so subtle ways. Hendrix used to holiday in Essaouira during the Sixties, and just about every hotel claims he stayed

there. There’s even a local rumour that Hendrix’s ‘Castles in the Sand’ was inspired by the rock formation along the beach. Reggae legend Bob Marley was another celebrated visitor and it is this unique combination of riffs, wind and waves that has created a fresh youth culture much to the delight of international visitors. Essaouira is a UNESCO World Heritage listed city, a perfect example of a late 18th century North African fortified town. More than 250,000 people squeeze into this walled, pedestrians-only city to enjoy the mix of modern jazz and blues fused with traditional Gnawa instruments. Predating music is the town’s link to cinema. In the early 1950s Orson Welles filmed parts of

Top (l-r): Hotel L’Heure Bleue is a favourite with wellheeled travellers; Algerian Cheb Khaled performs at the Gnaoua World Music Festival; trendy Café Europa is the place to enjoy a Moroccan coffee.

January 2011

SPORT Left: The wind induced Atlantic upwellings, which bring nutrients from the deep, create rich waters for Essaouira’s fishing industry. This picture: Essaouira’s bay is sheltered from currents, making it the perfect place to learn a water sport. Bottom left: Abdul Nasser Ouahad is the owner of Explora surf shop.

his classic version of Othello in the labyrinthine streets of the medina and on the ramparts. Several memorable scenes showed the Souiris, as the town’s inhabitants are known, going about their business in the historic city. Popular culture put Essaouira on the world map but it is another popular pastime, water sport, which is ensuring the continued growth of tourism. The combination of steady wind and waves makes it the perfect place for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing all year round. As he walks out of the Atlantic waters and up the beach the thing that stands out most on Abdul Nasser Ouahad’s white surfboard is the word ‘Moor’. This 30-something Moroccan is one of a new breed of sports entrepreneurs who is combining his love of waves with the benefits of having a sporty king. King

Open Skies

ESSAOUIRA IS RATED FOR ITS YEAR-ROUND WAVES AND WIND, AND DEPENDING ON THE SEASON IT FAVOURS DIFFERENT TYPES OF SURFING.

Mohammed VI has been instrumental in pushing sports of all types to the forefront in Morocco, but he is a particular fan of water sports. “I began surfing when I was young,” explains Abdul Nasser who now runs Explora, one of the best surf shops in town. “I joined one of the royal sports clubs in Essaouira as in those days it was the only way of being able to borrow a board and learning how to surf.” Today there are companies all along Essaouira’s sweeping bay that offer tourists the chance to buy or rent all the kit needed to surf, kitesurf or windsurf at a low price. Mention surfing paradise and Morocco is not the

E L C ORA

Y E K R TU E L C ORA

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• Access to Europe, Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle East and North Africa • 16th largest economy of the world and the 6th largest economy as compared to the EU countries in 2009 (IMF-WEO) • 15th most attractive FDI destination for 2008-2010 (UNCTAD World Investment Prospects Survey) • Average annual real GDP growth of 6% between 2003 and 2008

CORBIS

first country to spring to mind. But for the world’s surfing fraternity the bay of Essaouira is one of the best places to catch a wave. It is rated for its year-round waves and wind, and depending on the season it favours different types of surfing. In the last few years, the town has finally caught up with its own destiny and has been cashing in on its year-round winds. Hassan Quessan, who is the Moroccan co-ordinator of Union des Centres Sportifs de Plein Air (UCPA or Union of Open Air Sports Centre in English) feels that warm weather and the safety offered by the bay has helped win Essaouira the title of Morocco’s windsurfing capital. “We offer training for would-be kitesurfers from Europe,” he explains. “But we don’t only get 52

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beginners. The conditions appeal to those at an intermediate level and those with experience. We often bring groups over from France on package holidays.” The profits generated from the wealthy Europeans who spend a week on the beach learning a new sport are channelled directly into getting local Moroccan children into the water. Primary school groups and youngsters from orphanages are encouraged to get their first taste of the sea under the watchful eyes of trained Moroccan monitors. They learn to swim and are taught about the marine environment, including ecological awareness and safety. Their first taste of mastering wind and waves comes with training in kitesurfing – the most popular branch of water sport

Clockwise from top left: The souk in the old town of Essaouira; The ‘Castles in the Sand’ that may have inspired the Jimi Hendrix song; Water sport schools are big business; Essaouira’s old town is a World Heritage Site.

with beginners of all ages. Kitesurfing fans like Fred Peyre from Paris fly regularly to Essaouira for lessons. “With kitesurfing you need helpful monitors to hoist your kite aloft,” he explains. “Here you get more help than elsewhere because the Souiris are so friendly.” He is with a well-heeled couple from Casablanca who have driven down for the weekend with their boards on the top of their van. But even less well-off Moroccans are joining the trend. Tareq Chaabi is carrying his rather worn board into the old town. “I surf for five months a year,” he explains. “You can get a second-hand board at a reasonable price, which is why lots of boys and girls here are taking up surfing.” He adds that many Moroccans are inspired to try their hand thanks to images of their jet-skiing king in the media. Many are making a living out of teaching. Ismail El Gaz is now a qualified water sport monitor. He got his first experience in Essaouira and last year went to Zafarana in Egypt for a month to teach Egyptians how to surf. “It’s really international here,” he says. “You find Australians, Americans, Brits and Italians coming here because you can enjoy the water throughout the year in different ways and it is cheap.” But for Abdul Nasser Ouahad of Explora the greatest plus comes from the large number of Moroccans now taking to the waves. “Over the last few years we’ve seen how the policy of introducing young children to the water pays off,” he grins. “I would say that Moroccans now outnumber foreigners when it comes to sea sports.” Moroccans may outnumber foreigners when it comes to water sport, but the visitor profiles show that Europeans go there in droves throughout the year. The parents of water loving kids enjoy Essaouira’s architecture and have created another layer of tourism with more emphasis on the luxurious side of life. Favourites are the Villa Maroc and L’Heure Bleue, both set in the ramparts and both offering beautiful views. So even if you aren’t a music or water sport fan, there are still plenty of reasons to visit Essaouira. ❖

48hours

GUANGZHOU As the main manufacturing centre of the Pearl River Delta, Guangzhou is a magnet for business travellers. But ordinary visitors can also profit from a visit to China’s third largest city, reports Miriam Mannak. WHY GO? The industrial city of Guangzhou might not be uppermost in your mind when travelling to China. The Great Wall, China’s biggest tourist attraction, is many miles away and so are other highlights such as The Summer Palace and Tiananmen Square. Yet Guangzhou has a lot to offer. Lush public gardens, fascinating museums, fragrant tea markets, excellent restaurants, stunning river views and centuries of history are all part of Guangzhou’s allure. WHAT TO DO Shamian Island is without doubt Guangzhou’s most picturesque area. Nestled on the banks of the Pearl River this tree-adorned neighbourhood with its stately, colonial buildings is a peaceful sanctuary in the midst of the city. Shamian is Guangzhou’s number one location to have your wedding pictures taken, so don’t be surprised by the many brides, grooms and photographers. In the Xiguan neighbourhood China meets the Arab world. Here vendors of fragrant pita breads and Halal lamb shawarma sell their goods alongside Chinese noodle and sushi bars. The area is home to one of China’s oldest mosques, which was built in the seventh century by Sa’ad ibn Abi Waqqas – a maternal uncle of the Prophet Muhammad. Tea lovers will be in paradise at the NanFang tea market, one of China’s largest. Hundreds of tea varieties are sold here, as well as every possible tea accessory including teapots, porcelain cups, trays and spoons. It’s definitely worth it to treat yourself to a traditional Chinese tea ceremony as serving and drinking tea will never be the same again. Other Guangzhou attractions include the tomb of Sun Yat-Sen, the father of modern China, a porcelain pillow museum and the Temple of the Six Banyan Trees. The latter was constructed in 537AD, making it one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Guangzhou. The Haizhu area is a great spot to shop for Chinese lanterns, satin pillowcases, and other typically Chinese gifts.

Open Skies

WHERE TO STAY Guangzhou has many world-class hotels thanks to its economic importance. The five-star China Hotel, which belongs to the Marriott stable (Marriott.com), is situated in the heart of the city. Whilst there, treat yourself to a serving of dim sum crafted with expertise by Chef Law Wui Wing. You may never taste better. The White Swan Hotel (whiteswanhotel.com) is situated in the heart of Shamian and overlooks the famed Pearl River. This five-star hotel is one of the most luxurious in Guangzhou and has allegedly received over 40 heads of states and other VIPs. WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK Restaurant wise, the options in Guangzhou are countless and cater for every pallet and budget. The Bellagio (77 Ti Yu Xi Lu, west of Teemall) is one of the city’s most famous Taiwanese restaurants. The vibe is buzzing and energetic, the decor modern chic and the food an absolute pleasure. Try the stir-fried lily petals with celery, dragon beans in garlic, and sticky chicken thighs. Then end your meal with a Bellagio Breeze – a mountain of shaved ice topped with a mixture of condensed milk, sweet beans and tapioca pearls. The Paddy Field (thepaddyfield.com) is the only Irish pub and restaurant in the whole of Guangzhou. Apart from a wide selection of imported drinks, Paddy’s serves cheesy home-made nachos, chicken wings, burgers, steaks, pastas and risottos, as well as a wide variety of salads. On Sunday a full Sunday

Opposite page (clockwise from top): Islam was introduced to China in Guangzhou, which is why the Huaisheng Mosque is one of the oldest in the country; The Temple of Six Banyan Trees has a 1,400-year-long history; Feeding the fish is part of any visit to the Bao Mo Gardens; Sunset over the Pearl River; The Haizhu area is perfect for souvenir shopping; Guangzhou has four of the world’s oldest and best preserved Buddhist temples; Statues of children at play are found on Shamian Island; Guangzhou has a fascinating array of museums; The Xiguan neighbourhood retains its Arabic roots.

48hours

roast is served. While this makes The Paddy Field everything but a typical Chinese restaurant, it is the perfect spot when you need an antidote to noodles and rice.

TRIP TIP The Mid-Autumn or Moon Festival, celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth moon or between the second week of September and the second week of October, is one of China’s major cultural events. On that evening Chinese families get together to exchange and eat moon cakes accompanied by tea and the light of the full moon. Moon cakes come in all shapes, sizes and flavours and usually have a thin crust filled with a sweet lotus seed paste and one or more whole egg yolks. The cakes’ wrappings are particularly impressive. In Guangzhou, the Moon Festival is celebrated with numerous lantern shows but the one held at Baiyun Mountain is without a doubt the most picturesque in the entire country. Every year, the trees and ponds of this natural landmark are decorated with hundreds of lanterns depicting old Chinese legends. It is a fantastic sight that you will never forget. MUST DO The Bao Mo Gardens are Guangzhou’s most impressive highlight. Renowned for their typical Chinese architecture, the gardens’ canals are crossed by hundreds of bridges and embraced by immaculate floral splendour. Bao Mo is most famous for its armies of hungry koi and goldfish. Transforming the water’s surface into a jiggling and wiggling carpet of gold, orange and red there is nothing you can do but to feed them. ❖ 56

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TRAVEL INFORMATION Guangzhou has a humid subtropical climate influenced by the Asian monsoons. The monsoon season runs from April to September and the city gets around 1,700 mm of rainfall annually – most of it in summer. August is the hottest month with an average temperature of 28˚C and January the coldest with an average of 13˚C. The official currency is the Renminbi (¥1 = US$0.15 approximately). GETTING THERE EMIRATES flies daily between Dubai and Guangzhou. Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays. com for further information. RESOURCES Plan your trip and read up on Guangzhou attractions at travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/guangzhou.htm. FURTHER READING

Clockwise from top left: Shang Xia Jiu Square is a busy pedestrian shopping mall reflecting the modern face of Guangzhou; Shamian Island is a popular venue for wedding photographs; Moon cakes are made annually to celebrate Moon Festival; NanFang tea market is one of the largest in China.

TIME OUT HONG KONG: MACAU AND GUANGZHOU is one of the most up to date guides available. CHINA’S PEARL RIVER DELTA, GUANGZHOU & SHENZHEN by Simon Foster is another insightful guide that can be downloaded electronically from amazon.com. FAST FACT The Guangdong Through Train covers the 180 kilometres between Hong Kong and Guangzhou in under two hours. If you arrive by air the best way to cover the 20 kilometres from Baiyun Airport to the city is by hotel limousine. Arrange to be met at the airport when you book your hotel room or head for your hotel’s counter as soon as you arrive and book a limousine. The cost is a bit more but well worth it. If you do use a taxi use a metered one or negotiate the price before setting off.

ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS IS REPRESENTED BY A TRUSTED NETWORK OF SELECT ATELIERS INTERNATIONALLY. VISIT WWW.ARGYLEPINKDIAMONDS.COM FOR DETAILS.

dubaidiary

THE HOT LIST The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.

SPAS ShuiQi Spa & Fitness Centre This huge spa at the iconic Atlantis hotel offers a plethora of sublime treatments. If you’re not sure what to choose, why not create an ensemble of soothing therapies with of a personalised spa journey? Perfect. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 426 1020

Club Olympus Fitness & Spa Whether you feel like getting active with the state-of-the-art Techno-gym, or sinking into a soothing state of spiritual calm, this first rate spa and gym is a perfect place to indulge yourself. A new couple’s room is also available for sharing the experience. Hyatt Regency Dubai, Deira, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 209 1234

Amara Throughout January this top rated spa is offering an extra special price for its ‘Total Relaxation with Carita’ treatment. This two-hour package incorporates a hand and foot ritual, facial, reflexology as well as serving delicious meals from a select menu afterwards. Park Hyatt Dubai, Deira, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 602 1234

UPCOMING EVENTS THE MUSIC AND DANCE FESTIVAL OF DUCTAC JANUARY 14 Eastern music fans can catch Mohamad Hamami and the Sharq Orchestra at The Music and Dance Festival of DUCTAC. The performance also features a guest appearance by Marwan Khoury. Hailing from Lebanon, Khoury’s live performances in Egypt and the Carthage Festival of Tunisia have cemented his reputation as one of the most respected Arab artists of his generation. ductac.org

BRUNCHES Mina A’ Salam With the weather just right for alfresco dining, the terrace is a great spot to enjoy the live cooking stations. Steak, sushi and much more is all on offer in a great atmosphere. Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, 12.30pm-4pm, Dhs425, Tel: +971 4 366 8888

Bonnington Brunch Served at the Cavendish restaurant, this great brunch offers a fusion of British-European classical dishes with a modern twist that incorporates all the exotic elements of the Orient. Feast your eyes, indulge your palate and enjoy access to the pool on the stunning leisure deck. Bonnington Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai, 12.30pm-3.30pm, Dhs345, Tel: +971 4 356 0600

DUBAI SHOPPING FESTIVAL 20 JANUARY TO 20 FEBRUARY It is time for mega shopping madness again as the Dubai Shopping Festival arrives with steep discounts, fantastic gifts, incredible raffles and tonnes of entertainment. mydsf.com

Spectrum On One No less than eight kitchens cook up a little bit of everything here. And everything cooked to perfection. One of the most well-known and well-attended brunches in town. With one visit you’ll understand why. Fairmont Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, 12pm-3pm, Dhs550, Tel: +971 4 366 6730

RESTAURANTS Armani/Peck This is a casual combination of a relaxed restaurant and a 125year-old Milanese Deli. Although ‘casual’ Armani style still means ‘the very best’. Authentic hand-made pastas, simple yet exquisite sauces, everything tastes so flavoursome you can see why the deli has been around so long. The Burj Khalifa, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 888 3444

STAY Chef Alleno takes classic fine dining and adds his own contemporary touch, creating jaw-dropping dishes to be enjoyed in the sophisticated and stylish surroundings of huge ceilings, black chandeliers and smooth music. One&Only, The Palm, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 440 1010

Manhattan Grill Something of a guarded secret to those in the know, this fine restaurant, emanating ’30s era New York cool and sophistication, offers refined service and an exquisite menu featuring the best wagyu and Nebraskan beef, as well as a host of other options. First class! Grand Hyatt, Dubai, +971 4 317 2222

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STANDARD CHARTERED DUBAI MARATHON JANUARY 21 Thousands of runners from all over the world will tackle one of the fastest marathon courses on the international circuit. Kenyan athlete Eliud Kiptanui will make his debut, trying to better the time set by legendary runner Haile Gebrselassie. dubaimarathon.org/ WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE. BY THE EDITORS OF

coolstuff

THIN IS BACK IN The new breed of size zero laptops squeeze massive mobile smarts beneath their slim, trim stylings. Here are some of the best.

APPLE MACBOOK AIR | US$999 | apple.com

The original MacBook Air could make even the most diet-worthy notebooks blush. Not only was it wafer-thin, but it packed more tech than you could shake a very small, very slim stick at. But Apple’s latest wedge-shaped laptop trumps the old in almost every way, delivering an even sleeker MacBook experience with more power to boot. Here’s what you need to know: The new Air is only 17 millimetres at its widest point and weighs just under three pounds, despite its solid unibody construction. There are two screen sizes available, a portly 27.9 centimetre stunner

and a wider 33.8 centimetre model. Both pack near HD-quality resolutions, handy for on-the-go video. It packs a solid state hard drive to save space and powers its 1.4GHz or 1.86GHz Core 2 Duo processor and Nvidia GeForce graphics for up to seven hours. While the new MacBook Air is smaller than the original, it packs more ports, including two USB and an SD card slot. There’s instant on for speedy boot-ups, a large multi-touch trackpad and a FaceTime camera for video chat.

BEST OF THE REST

DELL ADAMO XPS US$900 | dell.com

ACER TIMELINE X US$1,085 | acer.com

SONY VAIO Z-SERIES US$2,575 | sony.com

SAMSUNG N230 US$530 | samsung.com

Dell’s Windows-runner beats the MacBook Air in size, with a slim chassis just 10 millimetres wide. Still, it somehow squashes in a 34 centimetre HD-friendly screen, five-hour battery, 1.4GHz processor and funky, slide open design.

Thin usually means compromised, so it’s surprising to find a Radeon HD5650 3D-ready graphics card parked next to a powerful i5 processor in this thin and light laptop. Switch off the tech though, and you’re still left with a six-hour battery life.

Few laptops are as desirable and powerful as this Vaio Z. It has a super-thin, carbon-fibre reinforced construction, with solid state hard drives with Blu-ray and HD output. Quite possibly the most powerful ultra-portable out there.

Not the thinnest here, but definitely one of the most handy. Samsung opted for quality and style over no-frills pricing, along with a whopping 12-hour battery life along with a 25.4 centimetre screen and 250GB hard drive.

Open Skies

WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES MAGAZINE. BY THE EDITORS OF

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your home in dubai

‫ﻳﻘﻊ اﻟﻔﻨﺪق ﻓﻲ ﻗﻠﺐ اﻟﻤﺪﻳﻨﺔ‬

sheikh zayed road, Dubai

‫ﻳﺘﻮﺳﻂ ﻗﻠﺐ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ ﻟ�ﻋﻤﺎل‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥ – ‫ﺑﺮج ﺧﻠﻴﻔﺔ ودﺑﻲ ﻣﻮل‬ ‫ﻣﺤﻄﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺮو أﻣﺎم اﻟﻔﻨﺪق‬ ‫ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬٤٥-‫ﻣﻄﺎر أﺑﻮ ﻇﺒﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬١٥-‫ﻣﻄﺎر دﺑﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﺷﺎﻃﺊ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﺮا‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬١٠-‫ﺳﻜﻲ دﺑﻲ‬/‫ﻣﻮل ا�ﻣﺎرات‬

Our Location

‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ اﻟﻤﺎﻟﻲ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻲ‬ ‫ دﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬٥-‫ﻣﺮﻛﺰ دﺑﻲ اﻟﺪوﻟﻲ ﻟﻠﻤﺆﺗﻤﺮات‬ ‫ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ رﺟﺎل ا�ﻋﻤﺎل وﻗﺎﻋﺎت اﻻﺟﺘﻤﺎﻋﺎت‬،‫ أﺟﻨﺤﺔ‬،‫ ﻏﺮﻓﺔ‬٥٠٠ ‫ﺳﺒﺎ وﺣﻤﺎم ﺳﺒﺎﺣﺔ ﺧﺎرﺟﻲ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺘﺮﻓﻴﻪ وا�ﻋﻤﺎل‬ Located in the heart of Dubai Centre of Dubai’s business district Burj Khalifa and Dubai Mall – 5 min. Metro Station in front of Hotel Abu Dhabi Airport – 45 min. Dubai Airport – 15 min. Jumeirah Beach – 5 min. Mall of the Emirates/Ski Dubai – 10 min. Dubai International Financial Centre – 5 min. Dubai International Convention Centre – 5 min. 500 rooms, suites, business centers & meeting rooms Spa & outdoor Swimming Pool. For leisure & business

150 $ Starting Rate, Terms and conditions apply

‫ ﺗﻄﺒﻖ اﻟﺸﺮوط وا�ﺣﻜﺎم‬.ً‫ دوﻻرا‬١٥٠ ‫ﺗﺒﺪأ ا�ﺳﻌﺎر ﻣﻦ‬

P.O. Box 32161, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 323 0000 I Fax: +971 4 323 0003 reservation@emiratesgrandhotel.com

departure

Dambulla Cave, Sri Lanka

CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

LATITUDE: 7° 51’ 24.1272” LONGITUDE: 80° 38’ 54.8124”

● Dambulla

Cave

SRI LANKA Colombo ●

Open Skies

his cave complex in Sri Lanka, comprising five cave shrines, is yet another World Heritage site that highlights Sri Lanka’s extraordinary artistic heritage. Also called the Golden Temple of Dambulla, the site is situated in the central part of the country lying east of Colombo and north of Kandy. The temple complex was commissioned by King Valagambahu in 1BC and has been a pilgrimage site for the past 22 centuries. Considered the largest and best preserved cave complex in Sri Lanka, the rough contours of the rocks are exquisitely painted and gilded with murals. The cave also houses a collection of 150 statues representing many epochs of Sinhala sculpture and Sinhala art. ❖

NEW JOH N N I E WALKE R DOU B LE B LACK 速

DISCOVE R A MOR E I NTE NSE TASTE OUR MASTER BLENDER INTRODUCES A DEEPER, SMOKIER AND MORE INTENSE WHISKY, BY EXPERTLY BLENDING THE MORE POWERFUL, NATURALLY SMOKY WEST COAST FLAVOURS WITH THOSE MATURED IN CHARRED OAK CASKS. THESE FLAVOURS ARE HARNESSED TOGETHER TO CREATE AN EXCEPTIONAL RESULT. A BOLD NEW ADDITION TO THE JOHNNIE WALKER 速 BLACK LABEL速 FAMILY.

P L E AS E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY W W W.D R I N K I Q.C O M

The JOHNNIE WALKER, BLACK LABEL and DOUBLE BLACK words, the Striding Figure device and associated logos are trade marks. 息John Walker & Sons 2010.

Emirates News ■

Emvironment

■

Comfort in the Air

■

U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms

■

Route Map

New Destinations Emirates has announced new services to two key cities – Basra in Iraq and Geneva in Switzerland. Flights to Basra will start on 2nd February and those to Geneva on 1st June. Basra will gain a four-times-weekly service operated on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday with an Airbus A330. Emirates expects to uplift around 10-12 tonnes of cargo per flight, using the belly hold capacity on the aircraft. Well positioned close to the oil fields and the Gulf, Basra’s recent growth has attracted investment from numerous multinational companies and industries. Local authorities in Basra have also started to develop plans to attract inbound tourism.

The daily service to Geneva will be operated with a combination of Boeing 777-200LR and Boeing 777-300ER aircraft. Emirates expects to use the full 15-20 tonne cargo capacity per flight. Geneva has global importance as a banking and financial city. Geneva has been described as the third European financial centre after London and Zurich, and it is ranked as the world’s eighth most important financial centre by the Global Financial Centres Index. It is also a worldwide centre for diplomacy, with more than 300 international government and non-government organisations, such as the United Nations, the World Trade Organisation and the World Health Organisation, based there.

Above: Geneva will become Emirates’ 111th destination in June.

January 2011

Emirates news

Wolgan Valley Award Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa has extended its special Spring Temptation offer into the summer months. The Summer Temptation offer is valid until 31st March 2011. It provides two nights in a double Heritage Suite at Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa, including breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, all nonalcoholic and selected alcoholic beverages and two nature-based activities each day, for just AU$1,470 per person, representing a saving of over AU$500. As part of this unique package, guests will also take home a complimentary Taste of Wolgan Gourmet Pack or a Timeless Spa Pamper Pack. Bookings can be made with the Wolgan Valley

Reservations team on +61 (0)2 9290 9733 or by email at reservations@wolganvalley.com. Terms and conditions apply. In spite of being open for just over a year, Wolgan Valley has filled its trophy case with prestigious awards, proving that the luxury, conservation resort, located near the famous Blue Mountains is already world class. The latest accolade came at the 2010 annual convention of The Leading Hotels of the World in Tokyo. Wolgan Valley was presented with the Commitment to Excellence award and came top of the Conservation category.

JetBlue Connection Emirates has confirmed an interline agreement with JetBlue Airways that provides seamless connections to cities across the United States via New York’s John F. Kennedy (JFK) International Airport. The new agreement also gives customers from the United States quick and easy connection to Emirates’ worldwide network. Customers can buy a single combined ticket for Emirates and JetBlue flights and enjoy one-stop check-in and baggage transfer between the airlines. JetBlue is the leading airline at JFK Airport where it operates from Terminal 5, while Emirates operates from the adjacent Terminal 4, allowing for fast and easy connections between flights. JetBlue is known for premium low-fare service with all-leather seating, unlimited free snacks and drinks, generous legroom in economy class and more free live entertainment than any other US airline. Emirates currently offers two daily nonstop flights to JFK.

Open Skies

Above: Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa’s Main Homestead and Swimming Pool

ǀƸſǞſƾƲŽȚ ȝȚȤƾƪƄŴǽȚ ȬȚǞſȖ ǀźƾż ƾƷƴƸƆƉůȶ ȝƾżǍƪŽȚ ǏƸŴƺů ƾƷƄƯűȚǍžȶ ȢǞƲƯŽȚ ǕƸƵű ǀŹƾƸǧ ǀƸǣƾƶƐȚȶ ǀƸſǋƓȚ ƾƁƾƬƲŽȚ ƾƷŸȚǞſȖ ǕƸƵƆŮ ȤǞŵ ȯȶǈȚ ȝƾżǍŵ ǏƸŴƺů ȜǍƑȚ ǘŶƾƶƓȚȶ ȝƾžǾƯŽȚ ǀƁƾƵŲȶ ǚƸƆƉů ȬȚǍƄųǽȚ ȝȚȔȚǍŮȶ ǀƁȤƾƆƄŽȚ ȸǍƇƃŽȚȶ ƞžƺƄŽȚȶ ȱǞƶƃŽȚ ƾƁƾƬŻ ȝȚȤƾƲƯŽȚȶ ȝǽȶƾƲƓȚ ƾƁƾƬŻ ǀƸŽƾƵƯŽȚȶ (ǠŽȶȢȶ ǠƴƇž) ǛƸƳƎ ǀƁȤƾƆƄŽȚ ȝǽƾżǞŽȚ ǚƸƆƉů ǝƸƃƭŽȚ ǀƸŽǞƂƉƓȚ ƾƁƾƬŻ ȴǞƁǋŽȚ ǚƸƫƎ

Emirates news

Great Golf Finale Win a Masterpiece Emirates has joined Montblanc in offering passengers the chance to win a stunning prize in the ‘Become the Emirates A380 VIP’ promotion – a Limited Edition Montblanc writing instrument inspired by the Airbus A380, exquisitely crafted and valued at €15,000, plus a complementary First Class trip with a companion to Hamburg, home of Montblanc, where the prize will be presented. Buy a StarWalker A380 fineliner on board from Emirates’ Duty Free and become eligible for the raffle draw to win the Montblanc Skeleton A380 Limited Edition and your trip to Hamburg. Ask a cabin crew member for details. The Montblanc Skeleton A380 Limited Edition is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, made to reflect the Airbus A380, using white gold and dark blue resin and embellished with 16 diamonds on the cap ring and a further 12 diamonds on the cone and cap top. Montblanc has been known for generations as a maker of sophisticated, high quality writing instruments. More recently, the product range has been expanded to include writing accessories, luxury leather goods and belts, jewellery, eyewear and watches.

The Race to Dubai series of golf events reached its finale with the $7.5 million Dubai World Championship, played late last year on the Jumeirah Golf Estates’ Earth course. The winner was Swedish golfer Robert Karlsson, with Ryder Cup hero Ian Poulter in the runner-up spot. Martin Kaymer, from Germany, emerged as champion of the Race to Dubai series.

Robert Karlsson en route to winning the $7.5 million Dubai World Championship.

NEW LIFE FOR CHIMP Emirates has played a key role in helping a 12-year-old chimpanzee called Omega to start a new and happier life at a sanctuary in South America. Omega recently travelled with Emirates SkyCargo from Lebanon to a new home in Brazil, leaving behind a troubled past. He had never climbed a tree or even seen a fellow chimp. Instead, he had served in a restaurant followed by eight years in an underground zoo. His last home was a zoo where visitors gave him cigarettes and watched him smoke. Omega was finally rescued by Animals Lebanon, which organised his new life at the Santuário do Paraná in São Paolo. Emirates SkyCargo worked with Animals Lebanon, the flight crew, Customs and cargo handlers to ensure that Omega reached his new home in high spirits. Emirates SkyCargo has long experience in the handling and care of live animals, including pets, exotics and the world’s finest racehorses. The airline complies strictly with IATA Live Animal Regulations.

Open Skies

Matthew Warren and Peter Jackson, with Ryder Cup hero Ian Poulter, were one of the teams in the Dubai World Championship Pro-Am.

Martin Kaymer, who finished 13th in the Dubai World Championship, salutes the crowd after being crowned Race to Dubai champion. Emirates is the Official Airline of the Dubai World Championship, presented by DP World.

Top Premium Chinese Brands Now Available in Middle East Duty Frees

Email: mail@orientalme.com

‘Emvironment’ (definition): Emirates’ environmental programme – a wide range of initiatives aimed at continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the natural environment and the 105 plus destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental milestones – each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In this edition, we look at a project in Europe that is streamlining flight paths and reducing emissions.

SOURCE: ATAG

NAVIGATING EUROPE’S BUSY SKIES On any given day there are approximately 27,000 flights across Europe. That equals about 20 flights taking off or landing per minute! Traditionally, airspace has been deemed as belonging to the country below it, and has been managed by the respective Air Traffic Controllers (ATC) of that country. Each time an aircraft enters or departs a country’s airspace, pilots must check-in with the ATC below and the aircraft’s route must be tracked and managed. Almost three quarters of European flights are concentrated into just 14 per cent of the available airspace in Europe, due to ‘no fly’ zones and national borders. This has resulted in inefficiencies as aircraft are forced to make zigzagged routes across Europe, often flying further and consuming more fuel. Large increases in air travel means more aircraft in the skies and European authorities are working together to try and change this outdated system of air traffic control.

Based on the principle of ‘flexible use of airspace’, the Single European Sky ATM Research (SESAR) programme is currently implementing a more unified approach to Air Traffic Management (ATM) across Europe. The estimated fuel savings, flight times and decreases in CO2 emissions, by allowing flexible routing of aircraft, are significant. SAVINGS FROM IMPROVING AIRSPACE EFFICIENCY MEASURE

UNITS

2010

2020

2030

Fuel Savings

Million tonnes/year

0.3

3.9

5.6

CO2 Savings

Million tonnes/year

0.8

12.2

17.7

Jet Fuel @85/b

$ billions

0.5

7.6

10.3

Jet Fuel @165/b

$ billions

0.6

10.3

14.3

Net Cost Saving

SOURCE: ATAG

EMIRATES FLYING OVER EUROPEAN SKIES Emirates has over 70 scheduled passenger flights per day to and from European Union countries, as well as 20 scheduled cargo services per week. Emirates also flies to destinations in Switzerland, the USA, Canada, Russia and North Africa through European skies. Emirates is always looking for ways to reduce fuel burn and greenhouse gas emissions. Having one of the youngest fleets in the world is an important first step. Operational improvements, such as route shortening and Continuous Descent on Approach (CDA) are the second logical part of improving fuel efficiency. Just as when driving a car, part of improving efficiency relates to the car and the driver, while part is dependant on the ‘rules of the road’. Projects like SESAR are driven by government initiatives, as most ATC bodies are part of government infrastructure. Improving the efficiency of ATC results in three-fold benefits – for airlines, customers and the environment. Emirates is especially supportive of the SESAR programme, as this will result in fuel and emissions savings, plus shorter flight times for our passengers. We hope the same principles of SESAR will be applied to ATC across all regions of the globe. ❖

If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the ‘About Emirates’ tab on emirates.com or email the Environment team at pea@emirates.com January 2011

Comfort in the air To help you arrive at your destination feeling fine and refreshed, Emirates have developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today. BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY

DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. ❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? ❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight. ❖ Eat lightly and sensibly.

❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. ❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. ❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. ❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT

WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. ❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.

SMART TRAVELLER

Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

Loosen your clothing, remove your jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body that constricts your blood circulation.

Light exercises on your lower legs and calf muscles encourages blood flow and helps reduce muscle fatigue and swelling in the feet.

Carry only essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal therefore we recommend that you wear glasses during flights.

Apply a good quality skin moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out due to the drier cabin air.

Open Skies

FOR MORE TIPS AND ADVICE TO HELP YOU TO ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT AND ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION FEELING FRESH, LOOK OUT FOR MESSAGES ON AIRSHOW, OR REFER TO YOUR INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT GUIDE FOR PROGRAMME DETAILS.

Guide to US customs & immigration forms Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple guidelines on correctly completing the forms. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ARABIC

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Open Skies

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â?&#x2013; Complete the forms prior to landing. â?&#x2013; Use a pen and write in capital letters. â?&#x2013; Complete every line. â?&#x2013; Ensure you write in the correct space. â?&#x2013; If you are in transit through the US, write â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;transitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the address field. â?&#x2013; If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.

IMMIGRATION FORM The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

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ESTA (ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION)

ARABIC

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If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESTA Facts: â?&#x2013; Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

â?&#x2013; The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

â?&#x2013; A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta a b

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Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you need assistance completing the forms.

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**. *Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa Waiver Programme.

January 2011

Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations GREENLAND GREENLAND GREENLAND GREENLAND

Western Western Western Western Europe Europe Europe Europe Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg

KristiansandKristiansand KristiansandKristiansand SCOTLANDSCOTLAND SCOTLANDSCOTLAND

Varnamo Varnamo Varnamo Falkenberg Falkenberg Falkenberg Falkenberg

Varnamo

DENMARKDENMARK DENMARKDENMARK Glasgow Glasgow Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh Edinburgh Copenhagen Copenhagen Copenhagen Copenhagen Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle SunderlandSunderland SunderlandSunderland Nykobing Nykobing Nykobing Nykobing

N. IRELAND N. N. IRELAND IRELAND N. IRELAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Leeds Leeds Leeds IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND Leeds Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Dublin Dublin Dublin Liverpool Dublin NETH.

Echo BayEcho Echo Bay BayEcho Bay Baker Lake Baker Baker Lake Lake Baker Lake

Lugo

Rankin InletRankin Rankin Inlet InletRankin Inlet

uneau

Juneau Juneau

Juneau

Fort Chipewyan Fort Fort Chipewyan Chipewyan Fort Chipewyan

Churchill

Churchill Churchill

Churchill Inukjuak

Inukjuak Inukjuak

Fort McMurray Fort Fort McMurray McMurray Fort McMurray Bear Bear Bear Lake Lake Dawson LakeCreek Dawson Dawson Creek Creek Dawson Creek Thompson Thompson Thompson Thompson Grande Prairie Grande Grande Prairie Prairie Grande Prairie Flin Flon FlinFlin Flon Flon Flin Flon Prince Rupert Prince Prince Rupert Rupert Prince Rupert Prince Albert Prince Prince Albert Albert Prince Albert Prince Prince Prince Prince George George George George Red Deer Red Red Deer Deer Red Deer Saskatoon Saskatoon Saskatoon Saskatoon

Calgary Kamloops Kamloops Kamloops Kamloops

SpokaneSpokane SpokaneSpokane Seattle Seattle Seattle Seattle Butte

Butte Butte

Burgos Burgos Burgos Burgos ANDORRA ANDORRA ANDORRA Vigo ANDORRA

Vigo

Vigo Vigo

Porto

Porto Porto

Duluth

Duluth Duluth

Duluth

Minneapolis Minneapolis Minneapolis Minneapolis

Inukjuak

Amos Amos Timmins

an Francisco San SanFrancisco Francisco San Francisco Los Angeles Los LosAngeles Angeles Los Angeles

RomeRome RomeRome

Naples

Naples Naples Naples Taranto Taranto Taranto

O COOECC AOEENC AAENNA N

BULG MONTENEGRO MONTENE MONTEN

Casablanca Casablanca Casablanca Casablanca Ouargla Reggane

Lima

Middle Middle Middle Middle East East East East Varna Burgas

Varna Varna Burgas Burgas

Varna Burgas

Izmir

Izmir Izmir

Izmir

Sochi

Sochi Sochi Ordzhonikidze Sochi Ordzhonikidze Aqtau Ordzhonikidze Aqtau Aqtau Ordzhonikidze

Tbilisi Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi Poti Poti Poti Tbilisi Zonguldak Zonguldak Zonguldak Zonguldak Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul Ankara Bursa Ankara Bursa BursaAnkara Bursa AnkaraYerevan Yerevan Yerevan Yerevan Antalya

Nicosia

Ardabil Tabriz Tabriz Tabriz Adana Aleppo Aleppo Aleppo Mosel Mosel Mosel Mosel Nicosia

Iraklion Iraklion

Iraklion

Nukus

São Paulo São SãoPaulo Paulo São Paulo

Tehran Tehran Tehran Tehran Tabriz

Beirut Beirut Beirut Beirut Damascus Damascus Damascus Damascus IRAN IRAN IRAN Amman Amman Amman Amman BasraBasra BasraBasra CairoCairo CairoCairo Kuwait Kuwait Kuwait Kuwait

Iraklion

Nukus Nukus

SYRIA SYRIA SYRIA

Mashhad Mashhad Mashhad Mashhad Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Bakhtaran Herat Herat Herat

IRAN

Herat

Dammam Dammam Dammam Dammam Bahrain Bahrain Bahrain Al Medinah AlAlMedinah Medinah AlBahrain Medinah Aswan Doha Doha DohaDoha Riyadh Riyadh Riyadh Riyadh Muscat Muscat Muscat Muscat Mecca Mecca Mecca Mecca Jeddah Jeddah Jeddah Jeddah Al Khaluf Al Khaluf Al Khaluf Al Khaluf

Rosario Rosario Rosario Rosario

Comodoro Rivadavia Comodoro Comodoro Rivadavia Rivadavia Comodoro Rivadavia

SAUDI ARABIA SAUDI SAUDI ARABIA ARABIA SAUDI ARABIA OMAN OMAN OMAN OMAN

Port Sudan Port Port Sudan Sudan Port Sudan Atbara

Atbara Atbara

Atbara

Al Ghaydan Al Ghaydan Al Ghaydan SalalahAl Ghaydan Salalah Salalah Sana’a Sana’a Sana’a Sana’a

Al Fashir

Al Fashir Al Fashir

Al Fashir Mekele

Al Mukalla Al Mukalla Al Mukalla Al Mukalla Taizz Taizz Mekele Mekele Taizz Mekele Taizz Aseb Aseb Aseb Aseb

Djibouti Djibouti Djibouti Djibouti

Bilm

Lagos Lagos Lagos Abidjan Abidjan Abidjan AbidjanLagos AccraAccra AccraAccra Yaounde Yaounde Yaounde Yaou

EQUATORIAL EQUATORIAL EQUATORIAL GUINEA EQUATORIAL GUINEA GUINEA GUINEA SAO TOMESAO & SAO PRINCIPE TOME TOME & SAO PRINCIPE & PRINCIPE TOME & PRINCIPE REPUBLIC REPUBLIC OFREPUBLIC O Libreville Libreville Libreville Libreville CONGO CONGO CONGO Sao Tome Sao Sao Tome Tome Sao Tome

Dem. of D GABON GABON GABON GABON CONGO C Brazzaville Brazzaville Brazzaville Brazz

Kinshasa Kinsha Kinsh

D O COOECC AOEENC AAENNA NLuanda Luanda Luanda Luanda

Kan

HuamboHuamb Huam ZA ANGOLAANGOLA ANGO Lu

NAMIBIANAMIBIA NAMIBIANA

BOTSWAN

Windhoek Windhoek Windho Walvis Bay Walvis Walvis Bay Bay Walvis Bay

Johannesbur Johanne Johann Jo Luderitz Luderitz Luder

Luderitz

BloemfoB

Aswan Aswan

Khartoum Khartoum Khartoum Khartoum Asmara Asmara Asmara Asmara YEMEN YEMEN YEMEN YEMEN

Bilma Bilma

SOUTH AFR SOU SO

EGYPT EGYPT EGYPT EGYPT

SUDAN SUDAN SUDAN SUDAN

Porto Alegre Porto Porto Alegre Alegre Porto Alegre

URUGUAY URUGUAY URUGUAY Baghdad Baghdad Baghdad Baghdad SantiagoSantiago SantiagoSantiago URUGUAY Esfahan Esfahan Esfahan Esfahan ARGENTINA ARGENTINA ARGENTINA ARGENTINA Jerusalem Jerusalem Jerusalem Jerusalem Alexandria Alexandria Alexandria Alexandria Buenos Aires Buenos Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Aires IRAQ IRAQ IRAQ IRAQ Port Said Port Port Said Said Port Said Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo Kerman Kerman Kerman Kerman JORDAN JORDAN JORDANJORDAN Concepcion Concepcion Concepcion Concepcion Suez Suez Suez Suez Zahedan Zahedan Zahedan Zahedan Shiraz Shiraz Shiraz Bam Shiraz Bam Bam Bam Beni Beni Beni Beni Neuquen Neuquen Neuquen Neuquen Suef El-Minya Suef El-Minya El-MinyaSuef El-Minya Suef Bandar Abbas Bandar Bandar Abbas Abbas Bandar Abbas Valdivia Valdivia Valdivia Valdivia

Aswan

LIBYA LIBY

Djanet Al Jawf

Sao Goncalo Sao Sao Goncalo Goncalo Sao Goncalo Recife Recife Recife Recife

Porto VelhoPorto Porto Velho Velho Porto Velho Cachimbo Cachimbo Cachimbo Cachimbo

Barreiras Barreiras Barreiras Barreiras BRAZIL BRAZIL BRAZIL BRAZIL Lima BOLIVIABOLIVIA BOLIVIABOLIVIA SalvadorSalvador SalvadorSalvador Brasilia Brasilia Brasilia Brasilia Cuiaba Cuiaba Cuiaba Cuiaba La Paz LaLa Paz Paz La Paz Goiania Goiania Goiania Goiania Sucre Sucre Sucre Sucre Belo Horizonte Belo Belo Horizonte Horizonte Belo Horizonte

Lima Lima

Bilma

DakarDakar DakarDakar

Rio Rio DeDe Janeiro Janeiro Rio De Janeiro PARAGUAY PARAGUAY PARAGUAY PARAGUAY Rio De Janeiro AntofagastaAntofagasta AntofagastaAntofagasta Baku Baku TURKMENISTAN Baku Curitiba Curitiba Curitiba Curitiba TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN TURKMENISTAN Asuncion Asuncion Asuncion Asuncion CHILE CHILE CHILE CHILE Ardabil Ardabil ArdabilAshgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat Ashgabat

Antalya Adana Adana Aleppo

Nicosia Nicosia SYRIA

Aqtau Nukus

PERU

Djanet Djanet

MALI

Araouane Araouane Araouane Araouane

Baku

TURKEYTURKEY TURKEYTURKEY

Antalya Antalya Adana

Trujillo

Sabhah Sabhah

Nouakchott Nouakchott Nouakchott Nouakchott NIGER NIGER NIGERCHAD NIGERCHAD CH SENEGAL SENEGAL SENEGAL SENEGAL Niamey Niamey Niamey Niamey Bamako Bamako Bamako Bamako GAMBIAGAMBIA GAMBIAGAMBIA BURKINA BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO BURKINA FASO FASO NIGERIA NIGERIA NIGERIA NIGERIA N’Djamena N’Djame N’Djam GUINEA GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA BISSAU GUINEABISSAU GUINEA GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN BENIN BENIN Abuja Abuja GHANA GHANA GHANA Abuja GHANA Abuja ConakryConakry ConakryConakry TOGO TOGO TOGO TOGO COTE COTE COTE COTE Freetown Freetown Freetown Freetown Porto NovoPorto Porto Novo NovoPorto Novo CENTRAL CENTRAL CENTR AFRICA D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE D'IVOIRE SIERRA SIERRA LEONE SIERRA LEONE SIERRA LEONE LEONE REPUBLIC REPU RE Lome Lome Lome Lome CAMEROON CAMEROON CAMEROON CAMEROO LIBERIALIBERIA LIBERIALIBERIA Malabo Malabo Malabo MalaboBangui B

Belem Belem Manaus Manaus Manaus Manaus Belem Belem FortalezaFortaleza FortalezaFortaleza

PERU PERU

MALI MALI

MAURITANIA MAURITANIA MAURITANIA MAURITANIA

Georgetown Georgetown Georgetown Georgetown VENEZUELA VENEZUELA VENEZUELA VENEZUELA PANAMAPANAMA PANAMAPANAMA Paramaribo Paramaribo Paramaribo Paramaribo Bogota Bogota BogotaGUYANA BogotaGUYANA GUYANA GUYANA FRENCH FRENCH GUIANA FRENCH GUIANA FRENCH GUIANAGUIANA SURINAME SURINAME SURINAME SURINAME COLOMBIA COLOMBIA COLOMBIA COLOMBIA Quito Quito Quito Quito ECUADOR ECUADOR ECUADOR ECUADOR

Trujillo Trujillo

Sabhah Reggane

LIBYA Djanet

COSTA RICA COSTA COSTA RICA RICA COSTA RICA

Trujillo

Reggane Reggane

WESTERN WESTERN WESTERN WESTERN SAHARASAHARA SAHARASAHARA

GUATEMALA GUATEMALA GUATEMALA GUATEMALA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA NICARAGUA EL SALVADOR ELEL SALVADOR SALVADOR EL SALVADOR Caracas Caracas Caracas Caracas

Talara

Ouargla Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli Tripoli

Ouargla Ouargla MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO MOROCCO

Canary Islands Canary Canary Islands Islands Canary Islands ALGERIA ALGERIA ALGERIA ALGERIA

Tampa

PERU

Oslo Oslo Oslo Stockholm Stockholm Stockholm Sto Tallinn

Athens Athe Ath TunisTunis TunisTunis MaltaMalta Mal

CUBA CUBA

Talara Talara

Helsin

GibraltarGibraltar Gibraltar Gibraltar Algiers Algiers Algiers Algiers TUNISIATUNISIA TUNISIATUNISIA Rabat Rabat Rabat Rabat

CUBA DOM. REP. DOM. DOM. REP. REP. DOM. REP. JAMAICA JAMAICA JAMAICA JAMAICA BELIZE BELIZE BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HAITI HAITI HAITI HONDURAS HONDURAS HONDURAS HONDURAS

Talara

Oslo

Taranto

MALI

P APPCAAI PCFCAIIFCCFIICFC I C

Vaasa

NORWAYNORWAY NORWAYNORWAY

MACEDO ZaragozaZaragoza ZaragozaZaragoza Rome Rome Rome Rome ALBANIA A Madrid Madrid Madrid Madrid Naples Naples NaplesALB N PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL GREEC SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN SPAIN Ponta Delgada Ponta Ponta Delgada Delgada Ponta LisbonDelgada Lisbon Lisbon Lisbon Sevilla Sevilla Sevilla Sevilla

THE BAHAMAS THE THE BAHAMAS BAHAMAS THE BAHAMAS Havana Havana Havana Havana CUBA

FI Ostersund Ostersund Ostersund

A T ALATATLALNATATLNN I ATCTN IICTC I C

Jacksonville Jacksonville Jacksonville Jacksonville New Orleans New New Orleans Orleans New Orleans

Mexico City Mexico Mexico City City Mexico City

Lulea

Tucson

Tampa Tampa Tampa Houston Houston Houston Houston

SWEDENSWED SWE

Skelleftea Skellefte Skelle

Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg Gothenburg R SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND DENMARK DENMARK DENMARK DENMARK Copenhagen Copenhag C GlasgowGlasgow GlasgowGlasgowCopenhagen LITHUAN

Montreal Montreal MontrealMontreal Ottawa Ottawa Ottawa Ottawa

Toledo Toledo Toledo ToledoNew York New NewYork York New York

MEXICOMEXICO MEXICOMEXICO

Kiruna

TorshavnTorshavn TorshavnTorshavn

Dallas Dallas Dallas Dallas Atlanta Atlanta Atlanta Atlanta Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham

Tucson Tucson Tucson San Diego San San Diego Diego San Diego

Alta

YUGOSLAVIA YUGOSLAVIA YUGOSLAVIA YUGOSLAVIA

Amos

Buffalo Scottsbluff Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago ScottsbluffChicago ChicagoChicago Provo

Gdansk

Viln Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle N. IRELAND N.N. IRELAND IRELAND N. IRELAND Gdansk Gd ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg POLAND POLAND POLAN NETH. NETH. NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester B Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham U. K.Birmingham U.U. K.K. U. K. Warsa IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND WALESIRELAND WALES WALES WALES GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY London London London London Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Dusseldor Krakow K L FrankfurtFrankfurt FrankfurtFrankfu Paris Paris Paris Paris AUSTRIA Munich AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AU Munich Munich Munich Zurich Zurich Zurich Zurich Nantes Nantes Nantes Nantes Vienna Vienna Vienn SWITZ. FRANCE SWITZ. SWITZ. SWITZ.ROMA FRANCEFRANCE FRANCE VeniceMilan Venice Venice Ve Bucha Milan Milan Milan BayonneBayonne BayonneBayonne Nice Nice Nice ITALY Nice ITALY ITALY ITALY SERBIA SER S

Toronto Toronto Toronto Toronto Milwaukee Milwaukee Milwaukee Milwaukee

Provo Provo Provo Reno Reno Reno

Gdansk Gdansk

Marseille

Zaragoza Zaragoza Zaragoza Zaragoza Porto Madrid Madrid Madrid Madrid S P A I NS P SA P A I NI N S P A I N

Detroit Detroit Detroit Detroit Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Boston Boston Boston Boston Omaha Omaha Omaha Omaha Reno Baltimore Baltimore Baltimore Kansas City Kansas Kansas City City Kansas City Baltimore Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Denver Denver Denver U. S. A.Denver U.St. U. S.S. A.A. St. U.St. S. A. St. Louis OaklandOakland OaklandOakland Washington Washington Washington D. C. Washington D.D. C.C. D. C. Louis Louis Louis Norfolk Norfolk Norfolk Norfolk CharlotteCharlotte CharlotteCharlotte Albuquerque Albuquerque Albuquerque Albuquerque Memphis Memphis MemphisMemphis Las Vegas LasLas Vegas Vegas Las Vegas Twin Falls Twin Twin Falls Falls Twin Falls

Marseille Marseille

Moosonee Moosonee Moosonee Moosonee Brandon Amos Timmins Timmins Timmins Williston Grand ForksGrand Grand Forks ForksGrand Forks

Butte

PortlandPortland PortlandPortland

Marseille

Labrador City Labrador Labrador City City Labrador City

Swift Current Swift Swift Current Current Swift Current Brandon Brandon Brandon Williston Williston

Lugo

CANADACANADA CANADACANADA

Calgary Calgary Calgary

Williston

Lugo Lugo

Valencia Valencia Valencia Valencia PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL PORTUGAL ValdepenasValdepenas Lisbon Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas Lisbon Valdepenas

Bear Lake

Vancouver Vancouver Vancouver Vancouver

Gdansk

Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg Hamburg NETH. NETH. NETH. Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Berlin Berlin Berlin Berlin Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Amsterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Rotterdam Cork Cork Cork Cork P O L A NP DO P O L A L A N N DP DO L A N D WALES WALES WALES WALES Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Dusseldorf BELGIUM BELGIUM BELGIUMDusseldorf BELGIUM Wroclaw Wroclaw Wroclaw Wroclaw London London London London Brussels Brussels Brussels Brussels Breslau Breslau Breslau Breslau Frankfurt Frankfurt Frankfurt (Heathrow (Heathrow & Gatwick) (Heathrow & Gatwick) (Heathrow & Gatwick)& Gatwick) Frankfurt LiegeLiege LiegeLiege Prague Prague Prague Prague CZECH CZECH CZECH CZECH GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY LuxembourgLuxembourg Luxembourg Luxembourg SLOVAKIASLOVAKIA SLOVAKIASLOVAKIA Morlaix Morlaix Morlaix Morlaix Paris Paris ParisParis Vienna Vienna Vienna Vienna Rennes Rennes Rennes Le Mans Rennes Le Le Mans Mans Joigny Le Mans Munich Joigny Joigny Joigny Munich Munich Munich Bratislava Bratislava Bratislava Bratislava AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AUSTRIA AUSTRIA LIECH. LIECH. LIECH. LIECH. Nantes Nantes Nantes Nantes Budapest Budapest Budapest Budapest Zurich Zurich Zurich Zurich FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE FRANCE SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLANDHUNGARY HUNGARY Poiters Poiters Poiters Poiters HUNGARY HUNGARY SLOVENIA SLOVENIASLOVENIA Geneva Geneva Geneva Geneva SLOVENIA Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Zagreb Ljubljana Ljubljana Ljubljana Ljubljana ICELAND ICELAND ICELAND ICELAND Lyon Milan Lyon Lyon Milan Lyon Milan CROATIA CROATIA Milan CROATIA CROATIA I T A L Y I TI A T A L YL Y I T A L Y Bordeaux Bordeaux Bordeaux Bordeaux Reykjavik Reykjavik Reykjavik Reykjavik Venice Venice Venice Venice BOSNIA BOSNIA BOSNIA BOSNIA Nuuk Nuuk Nuuk Nuuk Sarajevo Sarajevo Sarajevo Sarajevo Bayonne Bayonne Bayonne Nice Bayonne Toulouse Toulouse Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Nice Nice Nice Monaco Monaco Ancona Monaco Ancona Ancona Ancona Oviedo Oviedo Oviedo Oviedo

Salalah

Port Stanley Port Port Stanley Stanley Port Stanley

CapeCape Town CapeTown Cape TownT

A RAACRRTACC I RTCTC IICTC I C

O COOECC AOEENC AAENNA N

City of Lights

Alta Alta

EK 740 departing Paris on Khatanga Khatanga Khatanga Runway 26R provides a Volochanka Volochanka Volochanka Volochanka beautiful bird’s eye view of the Eiffel Tower, Norilsk Norilsk Norilsk Norilsk Dudinka Dudinka Dudinka Trocadero, PalaisAntipayuta des Dudinka Antipayuta Antipayuta Antipayuta Invalides and the river Vorkuta Vorkuta Vorkuta Vorkuta Seine slicing through Igarka Igarka Igarka Igarka the middle of the City of Lights.

Alta Murmansk Murmansk Murmansk Murmansk Kiruna

Kiruna Kiruna

DEN EDENSWEDEN

ulea Lulea

Lulea

ea eftea Skelleftea

ArchangelskArchangelsk ArchangelskArchangelsk FINLAND FINLANDFINLAND dINLAND Ostersund Vaasa Vaasa

Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek Khatanga

Belaja GoraBelaja Belaja Gora GoraBelaja Gora

Batagay

Sangar

R U S S R RIU A US SS S RI A IU AS S I A

Vaasa

Mirnyj

First Officer Alain Borthayre Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Nizhnevartovsk Boeing 777 Flying with Emirates for 4 years Kirov

Mirnyj Mirnyj

ockholm Tallinn Tallinn

Vologda Vologda Vologda St.Tallinn Petersburg St.St. Petersburg Petersburg St. Petersburg

STONIA ESTONIA ESTONIA ESTONIA Novgorod Novgorod Novgorod Novgorod

Vologda Kirov Kirov Kirov

Batagay

Sangar

Mirnyj Jakutsk

Syktyvkar Syktyvkar Syktyvkar Syktyvkar

nki Helsinki Helsinki Helsinki

Sangar Sangar

Batagay Batagay

Jakutsk Jakutsk

Jakutsk

Magadan Magadan Magadan Magadan

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M R PA S CA L R A F F Y, B OV E T O W N E R , WITH HIS SON A N D I N S P I R AT I O N , A M A D E O R A F F Y. ALL «AMADEO» MODELS A R E C O N V E RT I B L E I N TO A W R I S T WAT C H , A P O C K E T WAT C H A N D A TA B L E C L O C K ( PAT E N D P E N D I N G ) .

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