taste. blas magazine: Issue 3, Summer 2019 by taste.blas_magazine

Celebrating great food and drink in Wales Summer 2019

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Cooking al-fresco

PIC’N’MIX

Picnic hamper goodies

FEAST YOUR EYES Welsh dining in stunning locations

IN-CIDER KNOWLEDGE

The best Welsh Ciders

ICE CREAM BELIEVER

A gelato tour round Wales

PLUS CARMARTHEN FOODIE HOTSPOTS, FESTIVALS, RESTAURANT REVIEWS AND RECIPES GALORE

Editor’s Letter It ain’t Haf hot, Mam! spots in Wales, you’ll be inspired to reach for your wallet, sunglasses, and sandals, not forgetting an OS map! Let our columnists’ words entice you to reach for your wicker picnic basket, then head straight for your nearest orchard or hedgerow. Or if you’d rather cool off in the kitchen, try our refreshing recipes, from some of the best-selling cooks in Wales.

What’s to beat an improvised picnic, or a beach barbecue? Perhaps a table for two, with a fabulous view of the great Welsh outdoors. Think of long hot afternooners, a pint of cider or craft ale; for a holiday to remember, there’s no need to leave Wales. It’s the season of ice cream and agricultural shows, along with cool food, literature and music festivals. And the national Eisteddfod - our biggest summer jamboree – invites all of us to ‘sit’, and just ‘be’.

A golden Welsh summer is also filled with nostalgia, as well as the promise of crafting life-long impressions. And if there’s a ‘taste’ that screams summer, it’s the ‘blas’ of ice cream; don’t we all have a favourite ‘hufen iâ’? My Cardiff childhood memories are filled with the flavours of Thayers – now long gone, but far from forgotten. It was therefore a blast, on behalf of taste.blas, to take the ‘coolest’ ice-cream road-trip around Cymru. So prepare to be swayed, let food and drink lead the way, and create your own summer tales of Wales.

With months of sun ahead, we’ve brought some ‘hwyl’ to taste.blas, to help you plan a wild Welsh summer and a ‘haf ’. From a fly-on-the-wall take on a phenomenal food fest, to the best al fresco supper

With a middle name like Haf – that’s ‘Summer’ in Welsh – I’m at my happiest this time of year. Between those balmy Welsh evenings, plans for road trips and wild swims, my mind is filled to the brim with summer dreams. As always, food and drink are never far from those schemes, spent with family and friends, old and new.

Lowri Haf Cooke

taste.blas is brought to you by EDITORIAL

ADVERTISING

Editors: Lowri Cooke and Jeremy Head

Publisher: Paul Mulligan Tel: 029 2019 0224, sales@conroymedia.co.uk

Contributors: Lowri Haf Cooke, Jon Gower, Myfanwy Alexander, Adele Nozedar, Deiniol ap Dafydd, Llinos and Dylan Rowlands Recipes: Lisa Fearn (Dathlu / Celebrate, Gomer Press), Beca Lyne-Pirkis and Cwmni Da (Bwyd Beca My Food, Gomer Press), Sarah Philpott (The Occasional Vegan, Seren Books), Hugh and Jill Jones with Mark Jones (No Bones Jones: Festival Cookbook, Y Lolfa), Meryl Cubley (News Editor), Adam Rees, Abigail King Photography: Emyr Young (The Walnut Tree + Lowri Haf Cooke Proﬁle pic), Marian Delyth (Jon Gower Proﬁle pic), Iolo Penri (Caernarfon Food Festival photos), Aled Llewelyn (Lisa Fearn recipe photo), Rebecca Bedford (No Bones Jones recipe photo), Manon Houston (The Occasional Vegan recipe photo), Rowan Morgan.

PRODUCTION

Designer: James Meredith, Alan Chaston Sub-editor: Paul Spencer

Printed by: Southern Print

Distributed by Pear Distribution

To receive taste.blas call: 029 2019 0224 taste.blas Magazine is published by Conroy Media Ltd, PO Box 607, Cardiﬀ CF24 1ZR ©Conroy Media 2017. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers can not be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views expressed in taste.blas are not necessarily those of the editor or the publishers.

www.taste-blas.co.uk www.taste-blas.co.uk

Front cover Image - HCC Asset Bank

@tasteblas

Contents Features The Post Woman Y Polyn’s Sue Manson delivers some fine food

All Q’d Up The low-down on BBQ’s and outdoor cooking

A View to Thrill Welsh eateries with stunning vistas

Take Your Pick A selection of Welsh produce for a picnic extravaganza

The Tour Foodie havens in Carmarthenshire and beyond

Cool as Ice Ice creams and gelati from around Wales

Plum Centre Great producers from North East Wales, home of the Denbigh Plum

Northern Stars Stellar producers from North East Wales

Summer Lovin’ Time to get out and forage

Refresher Course Welsh ciders, lager and assorted thirst-quenching summer drinks

www.taste-blas.co.uk

7 11 14 18 20 22 26 28 30 32

Regulars I Am A Cider Drinker! Jon Gower reflects whimsically on his fondness for cider

Recipes Galore If you want to lose weight, look away now

Hone Your Technique Time to sharpen your knives and fire up the BBQ

Very, Very Tasty Let our food and drink tickle your taste buds

Festival Fever It’s the time of the year, it all goes a bit bonkers

Dining Out in Style Welsh restaurants fit for royalty

Fitting The Bill The right wine for the right occasion – or not?

Hold the Front Page The latest news hot off the press

A Perfect Picnic Myfanwy Alexander on her perfect picnic, fact and fiction

www.taste-blas.co.uk

8 36 41 44 49 52 58 62 66

250g

500g

Chef profile

Leader of the Pack a Scotsman from Caithness, who went on to become a restaurant inspector for the AA Guide. Four years later they moved to London, where she was appointed Head Chef at the Little Ship Club in the City. After that she entered the worlds of outside catering and private dining, regularly hosting 100-seat dinners at The Livery Club.

Lowri Haf Cooke talks war scars and knickerbockers with award-winning Y Polyn Head Chef Susan Manson There are plenty of Welsh chefs with ‘sleeve’ tattoos, displaying their pride as members of the cooking tribe. But you’d be hard-pressed to find a more hard-core gang-member than Chef Susan Manson, whose forearms are covered with burns. ‘I’m not sure if it means that I’m more accident-prone than most - it’s just an occupational hazard’, she explains with a shrug. Her no-nonsense attitude to her kitchen warwounds is reminiscent of a traditional Welsh Mam, faced with hot saucepan handles and all sorts of kitchen splatters. She’s a mother herself – to Tilly, who’s 12 – and her scars have caused alarm amongst some. ‘I’ve had doctors, and even my mid-wife, give me ‘meaningful looks’. They were so relieved when I explained that I’m a Chef ’. The head-chef (and co-owner) of Y Polyn in Capel Dewi, Carmarthenshire, is a rare bird indeed - according to the Office of National Statistics, only 17% of chef positions in the UK are held by women. ‘I’m hoping it’s changing, but it’s a hard industry. The hours aren’t conducive to having a social, or family, life – but it’s the only thing I’ve ever wanted to do’. As a child in Sussex she loved making sweets and at 17, she skipped her A Levels to join the kitchen at Amberley Castle. ‘I was surrounded by boys in the kitchen, and very shy. I woudn’t say boo to a goose.’ But there, she met Mark,

Amongst popular dishes at these ‘classic, traditional’ feasts, was Susan’s fish soup that’s been Y Polyn’s house classic since 2005. Paired with sourdough, Gruyère cheese and Provençal rouille, it’s a heartwarming, indulgent treat. It’s just one example of a tantalizing menu that’s a cut above the usual Welsh gastropub fare. Indeed, it’s fair to say, that Y Polyn led the way, garnering plaudits and awards to this day. A year after opening Jay Rayner was much taken with the ‘pleasing bistro classics’ menu, and twice in succession they won the ‘Best Sunday Lunch’ Observer Food Magazine award. So how did the move to Carmarthenshire occur? ‘After 9 years in London we wanted a family life in a rural setting, similar to where we’d both grown up. We were friends with Simon and Maryann Wright, and often visited Nantgaredig, so the four of us opened Y Polyn in Capel Dewi’. Five years later, the Wrights departed amicably, to develop Sosban in Llanelli, before opening Wright’s Food Emporium nearby. Then, in 2012, Good Food Guide readers voted Y Polyn their Recommended Restaurant of the Year for Wales. Much imitated, but never bested, the secret of their success is very simple, as Susan herself explains. ‘We’re a restaurant in a pub setting, so we’re much more food orientated than most pubs, which makes sense, as most people have to drive to get here.’ Indeed it’s a lovely drive through the Tywi valley, past bluebells and wild garlic, and it’s the empasis on local produce that has ensured a loyal following. ‘I love cooking coracle-caught sewin or salmon from the Tywi, and we’ve got local asparagus and Pembrokeshire lamb hogget on the menu at the moment. Seeing customers coming back, and back again, is so rewarding; ultimately, that’s what you want as a chef.’

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Her childhood love of sweets is also in evidence on the menu at Y Polyn; she’s currently on her 30th incarnation of the Knickerbocker Glory – with a tropical promise of ‘Pina Colada’to debut over summer. 28 years since she began her career, she’s still surrounded by men in the kitchen – including Phil Leach, formerly of Slice in Swansea, and Alix Alliston, who graduated to the position of chef from pot-washing – but over the years, she’s encouraged plenty of female chefs at Y Polyn. ‘I’ve got a great team at the moment, but it’s really nice to have a balance of male and female; tempers can fray, and it’s always good not having too much testosterone in the kitchen, but then we can also be very silly. One of the things me and Mark wanted to do from the beginning was to ensure a work-life balance, and we’re now seeing Michelin chefs promote a 4 days on / 3 days off working week.’ ‘At heart,’ she says, ‘kitchen culture is a camaraderie; you want everyone to succeed. Yes, it’s hard work, but what isn’t in life?’

©Marian Delyth

Jon Gower One’s Sincere Praise for Cider

Sadly there wasn’t a stockist in the town so Jim phoned Adam and he kindly offered to bring some samples over in the morning. Unfortunately he was just a tad too late as I had to catch a train and ironically I saw his van crossing the railway bridge as I chugged out of town. But the Celtic gods must have seen this and taken pity because quite by chance a friend sent me a gift some weeks later, an assortment of Skyborry ciders, which washed away a pleasant evening.

Like my father before me I am a cider drinker, which sounds like a confession. It brings with it images of rubicund faces and straw chewing, which are true in my case, other than the straw. Unlike him I am the net beneficiary of the wave of craft cider-making that has swept over the land, from Anglesey to Monmouth. The names alone make a found poem, a liquid litany...Old Monty Oakey Cokey, Alpha Tango Foxwhelp, Riptide, Robin Goch. There has been a mini Renaissance in small orchard planting, apple picking and old techniques for cider manufacture. It’s a reaction against the big conglomerates with their factory processes, much as craft ale has answered the blandness of Eurolager and big brewery all-of-a-sameness. Part of the pleasure of enjoying these boutique ciders lies in the hunt. A few years ago I met a hyperknowledgeable man called Jim Saunders who was standing behind the information desk of the Offa’s Dyke Visitor Centre in Knighton. I asked him if he knew where I could buy some Skyborry Cider. This is made by two brothers, Adam and Dani Davies who scour the orchardlands of the Welsh borders before bringing the harvest back to a shed behind their cottage. I can attest to the fact that every bottle of Skyborry Pommage, Waiting for the Miracle and Rural Method is delicious, but certainly not Golden Delicious. I also like the fact that Skyborry derives from the Welsh word for barn, ‘ysgubor,’ which is a perfect blurring for a border name, and an ambrosial cider to boot.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

This love of cider and apples may account for the most pretentious thing in our garden. Last year we planted what we like to call an orchard although it’s not really big enough to warrant the word. Nevertheless, we’ve planted a small range of Welsh apple types – and wait for it – arranged them as they would be found spatially on the map of Wales. So Pig Aderyn, a Carmarthenshire apple, is found slightly to the west of a variety called Swansea Bay. Then in the north of the patch is the most special one, namely Afal Enlli, the Bardsey Apple. I remember when they discovered the single, stunted but salt-resistant specimen back in 2005, a remnant of the orchard in the island’s priory. I once worked on Enlli and left part of my heart there. And just to remain sentimental for a moment, in another part of our Cardiff garden there’s a single, rare Denbighshire plum, commemorating the fact that I met my wife in Denbigh. I’d often thought what the pink and cream coloured Bardsey apple would taste like but certainly didn’t expect to ever taste a brimming glass of the juice, as happened one evening in Pembrokeshire, where a man had planted a whole grove of 50 trees. Maybe it was my imagination, but the juice had more than a hint of ‘sea-girt isle’ to it, as Shakespeare put it, a hint of iodine, seaweedy tang. Which got me thinking. Wouldn’t it be great if we could have a range of Welsh ciders using exclusively Welsh apple types? There’d be Morgan Sweet, an apple once very popular in the south Wales coal fields, Twyn y Sheriff, a Raglan specialty, the mild bittersweet Perthyre from Monmouth as well as Pen Caled, or hard head from Cardigan. I’m sure there are some dedicated cidermakers out there in the throes of precisely such juicy experiments. By way of encouragement let me place an advance order now. For the days are lengthening and the swallows are on the wing and writing, like haymaking, is very thirsty work.

BREWED IN WALES ENJOYED EVERYWHERE ALC. 5.0% Vol.

www.wrexhamlager.co.uk ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

A newly-created range of Cask, Keg and Bottled beers which have already won an impressive array of awards

Since 2011, Brecon Brewing beers in Cask, Keg and Bottles have been winning friends and awards both locally and across the UK

The impressive range of Lithic Craft beers have been reborn in Keg and Cans and are the only wholly Gluten Free range of Craft Beers in Wales

Special Offer for Trade Customers : Get 20% of your ﬁrst order when you quote : BLAS07 Squire Drive, Brynmenyn, Bridgend, CF32 9TX

01656 728 081

www.coldblacklabel.co.uk

01874 620 800

www.breconbrewing.co.uk

www.lithicbrewing.com

Barbecue Superstars These guys are HOT! All across Wales they’re smoking, basting, marinating and baking. Maybe it’s time you joined them? The Marinaders Who are you? We’re Samantha Evans and Shauna Guinn and we run Hang Fire Southern Kitchen in Barry How did you get into barbecuing? We met when we were 19 and after working in different careers in London both wanted to come back here and do something with more soul. Shauna was really into country music and Samantha loved cooking. A six month road trip sampling soul food and BBQ in the Deep South of the USA got us hooked on the friendships and flavours of the local BBQ joint. So we tried setting up a pop-up BBQ shack in a pub in Splott. The first week we fed four people, within nine months we were feeding 200! Why are marinades and rubs so good for BBQs? Both are about adding an extra complexity and depth. We marinade things that can take an alternative hit of flavour such as chicken, pork or lamb overnight. More subtle flavours like steaks and veggies work better with a rub. We brush them with oil and sprinkle the rub on no more than 20 minutes before cooking. We learned some spice rub secrets in the US that we aren’t going to tell anyone!

Tell us a marinade/rub favourite and how to cook it? Our classic all purpose rub is brilliant and easy to make. Combine sea salt, paprika, brown sugar, garlic granules, onion powder, chipotle chili powder, all spice, cumin, fennel and pepper in a blender and rub away! We like it on ribs, pork shoulders, chicken or as a seasoning for meatballs. What else do you love to cook? We cook soul food and we cook it with love. American barbecue is all about cooking it ‘low ‘n’ slow’. On the menu you’ll find 7 hour smoked St Louis Spare Ribs, 18 hour smoked pulled pork shoulder and 8 hour smoked brisket on Texas toast. But we also do yummy dishes for veggies and vegans and people rave about the Creole Gumbo. Where can we try some? Hang Fire Southern Kitchen is at the Pumphouse, Hood Road, Barry, CF62 5BE. You can buy our new cookbook and we’re filming a new series of Sam and Shauna’s Big Cook Out for BBC Wales right now!

www.taste-blas.co.uk

The Firestarter

The Heatseekers

Who are you? I’m Chris ‘Foodgasm’ Roberts, Gwynedd-based barbecuing guru.

Who are you? We’re Ron and Margaret. After successful careers in building and teaching consultancy we wanted a complete change. So at the age when most people are retiring, we set up Bryn Celyn - a 12 acre smallholding in the heart of the beautiful Anglesey countryside. We love it!

How did you get into barbecuing? It was my dad Colin. He got me into South American cooking methods. He taught me how to use an iron cross asado barbecue to cook meat. He’d learned the technique spending time with Welsh-speaking gauchos on the Patagonian plains in Argentina. Why is cooking over an outdoor fire so good? The whole point of an asado is it brings everyone together. In South America you get whole communities all eating together. And you can’t duplicate the flavour of charring and smoking indoors. The fat drips from the meat onto the embers and makes the smoke come back up and hit the meat again. Cooking with fire is kind of in our DNA. Every culture started that way. We’ve kind of lost the skill to cook this way that’s a shame. Tell us your asado cooking tips You need to start with quality meat. Welsh meat is the best. I love mountain lamb. They don’t just eat grass they eat flowers, berries, and wild grass. You get these flavours coming through. And then you need the right fuel. If you’re buying good meat don’t skimp on the fuel. You needed seasoned hardwood like oak or ash. Super dry it gives you clean smoke. Wet wood gives you dirty bitter smoke which ruins the flavour. Then you have to baste. Salt is essential as it turns the fat into a crackling. I mix a special blend of oil, water, sea salt, whole cloves of garlic and chilis and then just splash it on using a bunch of herbs - rosemary, thyme, bay leafs. No one knows it, but lamb crackling is the best - way better than pork! What else do you love to cook? I cook almost anything over a barbecue or an asado. I love it. I recently cooked a whole cow on an asado. That took 28 hours! And I love a good rub. Massaged into the meat before you cook it. I have my own special brand called Sexy Rub which people will be able to buy in shops soon. It’s a secret blend of local herbs including shitake mushroom powder produced locally by a mate of mine and Halen Mon sea salt. Where can we find you to try some? I’ll be barbecuing at events all across Wales this summer including Royal Welsh and Good life Experience with Cerys Matthews. I’m also at Countryfile Live at Blenheim Palace. You can watch my TV show Bwyd Epic Chris on S4C Click too. I’m recording the second series right now!

www.taste-blas.co.uk

How did you get into outdoor cooking? We started selling free range eggs from our hens. Next came pork pies, sausages and bacon from our own pigs. Then we set up our farm shop. A restaurant and cookery school soon followed. The small-holding is a place to come and relax. In particular we wanted to spend more time outside on sunny summer evenings. So Ron decided to try building a traditional cob oven using clay from our own fields. We now run courses for up to four people to build your own cob oven and cook in it. Why is cooking using an outdoor oven so good? The cob oven’s design means it pulls in cool moist air then heats it to very high temperature. Ordinary ovens use dry heat. The result? Cooking in a moist air means you can cook at a much higher temperature without the food drying out. So the flavours are way better and they’re all enhanced by a hint of woodsmoke. Delicious! Tell us a few of your cob oven top tips We use it to cook all kinds of stuff: pizzas, bread, focaccia, whole legs of pork. It’s important to use the right fuel. We use hardwood from our own woodland: beech, oak, ash or hazel. You need to light the fire and leave it to heat up to 300 degrees centigrade, holding it at this temperature for at least 15 minutes. Depending on what you’re cooking, you can either remove the fire and cook in the residual heat (that works really well for breads). Or leave some fire burning to cook pizzas or joints of pork or chicken. What else do you love to cook? On our cooking experience days, as well as using the cob oven, Ron shows you how to cook spit-roast porchetta. Ron has also built an asado barbecue. He roasts whole Anglesey Salt Marsh lamb over seasoned wood for several hours and serves it sliced with fresh salads. Basically it’s all about trying new ways of cooking. People love it! Where can we find you to try some? North West Wales on Anglesey, half a mile off the A5025 between Moelfre and Amlwch on the Dulas estuary. Find out more, book experiences and buy produce on our website: www.bryncelynfarmshop.co.uk

Know Your SOURCE. Love Nature.

Our cans are 100% recyclable. #KnowYourSOURCE #LoveNature

www.llanllyrsource.com

THE PERFECT VENUE FOR ANY OCCASION Enjoy a relaxing meal in the COPPERPLATE BAR & GRILL At the 4H Stradey Park Hotel & Spa A contemporary Bar & Grill with stunning panoramic views of the estuary Serving classic dishes and daily specials Extensive Cocktail menu, Gin boards and Local beers

OPEN FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA & DINNER

Stradey Park Hotel & Spa, Llanelli, SA15 4HA T: 01554 758171 www.stradeyparkhotel.com @Copperplatebarandgrill

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Let’s Go Outside... Those balmy summer evenings call for dinner ‘al fresco’, or in Welsh, ‘yn yr awyr iach’. Lowri Haf Cooke enjoys the early-evening breeze at prime outdoor supper spots all over Wales. Gwesty Tŷ Newydd, Aberdaron After a jaunt to Uwchmynydd, overlooking Ynys Enlli, make your way down through the heather and gorse to Gwesty Tŷ Newydd. Savour fresh Pen Llŷn crab and lobster, or Cwrw Llŷn battered cod and chips – and don’t forget the side-order of ‘pys slwtsh’. Take in the fresh sea air and the stunning view of Aberdaron’s mile-long beach. For a taste of Welsh culture with your ’sgod a sglod’ supper, time your visit to coincide with Gŵyl Pendraw’r Byd – Tŷ Newydd is at the centre of this vibrant music fest, usually held towards the end of summer. Gwesty Tŷ Newydd, Aberdaron, Pwllheli LL52 0HU; tel: 01758 760207

Dylan’s, Cricieth At peak-times during summer, there is a queue for over an hour to grab a premium seat outside Dylan’s restaurant in Cricieth. To cope with demand, cool Welsh blankets are provided to enjoy the beach view with a ‘Menai Mojito’ in hand! It’s definitely worth the wait, for the starter of ‘Tacos Angharad’, followed by a wood-fired pizza or classic Menai ‘moules marinière’. If you’re famished, there’s plenty of tables inside, in one of Clough Williams-Ellis’ Art-Deco architectural gems. The best advice? Arrive extra early, and wear your ‘siwt nofio’ underneath; pray for a wait, go for a refreshing dip, before an epic Eifionydd feast! Dylan’s, Maes y Môr, Cricieth LL52 0HU; tel: 01766 522773

Bwyty Mawddach, Llanelltyd Would Madam or Sir like a view like no other, in the fresh Meirionnydd air? Follow the Mawddach trail up to Llanelltyd, near Dolgellau, and prepare to be blown away! Chef Ifan Dunn, formerly of Cardiff ’s Da Venditto and Laguna Restaurant, Park Plaza – returned home to Llanelltyd in 2010. His family farm now includes a contemporary restaurant with a wow-factor view of Cadair Idris. Time it right in July, and savour his brother Will’s Spring lamb, for a Sunday lunch to remember. And when the temperature hits high, go for a Negroni outside, followed by a Crab Linguine or Haddock Risotto. Bwyty Mawddach, Llanelltyd, Dolgellau LL40 2TA; tel: 01341 421752

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Pizzatipi, Aberteifi As you stroll along the Teifi in Cardigan, past Lord Rhys’ 12th Century castle, take a moment to admire the view from the bridge . Savour poet Ceri Wyn Jones’ lovely ode to the quay, then make a beeline for Pizzatipi, and pray that the queue at Tafarn Smwglin is not too long! Between 12-9pm each day over summer you’ll find the party’s just begun; grab a pint of the Mantle ale, and find a table in the open air whilst awaiting a fresh wood fired pizza. Toppings vary from local Aberporth crab, to Perl Las cheese and Pembrokeshire new potato, or keep it simple and go for the Bianca –‘dim saws, jyst caws!’ If it rains, laugh it off and make a dash for the nearest tipi; it’s what Welsh summer dreams are made of. Pizzatipi, 1 Cambrian Quay, Aberteifi SA43 1EZ; tel: 01239 612259

The Shed Bistro, Porth-gain If seafood’s your passion, make your way to Porthgain, for a feast of fish and chips. Take a pew near the harbour, near owner Rob Jones’ fishing boat, to feast on the freshest flavours of Pembrokeshire. The crab salad with coriander is a must to begin, along with a glass of Muscadet. Follow that with a John Dory, or a monkfish tail – or chase your plaice and chips with local Bluestone ale. Don’t leave without tasting Caroline’s walnut tart, glazed with caramel and Penderyn sauce. And if you contribute a pound to the Fisherman’s Trust, she’ll share the easy-peasy recipe with you! The Shed, 56, Heol Llanrhian, Porth-gain, Haverfordwest SA62 5BN; tel: 01348 831518

Pitch Bar & Eatery, Cardiff For a cheeky outdoor supper in the capital city centre, look no further than Pitch Bar & Eatery. This Welsh independent ‘drinks and dining’ destination is a Cardiff sunny day sensation. Situated right at the heart of historical Mill Lane, the sun-trap terrace is terrific for people watching. Whether preparing for a concert, or a classic Saturday night out in Cardiff, start with some ‘prinks’ – perhaps a ‘Pitch’er’ of ‘Pitch Punch’, or how about a ‘Beer on Mill Lane’ whiskey cocktail? Do stay for the food – locally sourced from the central market – including the wildly popular ‘Hoff ’ Burger (Welsh for ‘favourite’!), ‘Bass in a Bag’ and veggie-friendly Glamorgan Bites. Polish off your summer eve with a selection of fine Welsh cheeses, and seriously consider returning to Pitch for your Sunday lunch!

The River Café, Glasbury Don’t leave it a year before you retun to Hay on Wye, for the glittering literary fest. Welsh foodies often return to visit The River Cafe, for a leisurely lunch or dinner 5 miles away in Glasbury. Book a table overlooking the 11th century bridge on the river Wye - the site of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn’s victory against the Bishop of Hereford’s English forces. Plump for the crab papardelle and a glass of Italian wine, and admire those gliding along in their canoes along the Wye. The casual dining menu never fails to delight, and was much admired by late restaurant critic AA Gill.

Pitch Bar & Eatery, 3 Mill Lane, Cardiff CF10 1FL; tel: 02920 228882

The River Café , Wye Valley Canoes, Glasbury, Powys HR3 5NP; tel: 01497 847007

www.taste-blas.co.uk

SHOW

OEAU

100

SHOW

Royal Welsh Show 2019

100 S

Sioe Frenhinol Cymru 2019

OEAU

22-25 Gorffennaf/July Royal Welsh Showground Llanelwedd LD2 3SY Mae eleni’n un arbennig, gan mai dyma’n 100fed sioe. Dewch i ddathlu gyda ni! Gatiau’n agor o 8 y bore. Tocynnau ar gael ar-lein yn awr. This year’s a special one, as it’s our 100th show. Come and celebrate with us! Gates open from 8am. Tickets available online now.

#SioeFrenhinolCymru #SFC100 #RoyalWelshShow #RWS100

cafc.cymru rwas.wales

Picnic

Grab your hamper and head for the hills, or the beach, for an afternoon to remember. Deiniol ap Dafydd, founder of Blas ar Fwyd, casts his expert eye over the best Welsh picnic products to fill your basket. 4

Condiments

Pate

1. Cowboy Pickles Flamin’ Hot’ Pickled Gherkins £4.50 for 450g

6. Patchwork Pâté Brandy & Herb £3.50 120g

Perfect on hot-dogs, or paired with a cheddar, with a sweet and sour chilli crunch. Not for the faint of heart!

Sparkling wine 2. Ancre Hill Estates, Sparkling Blanc de Noir £28.00 75cl You can’t let the opportunity to enjoy one of the best wines in the UK to pass. Fantastic lees aged, (adding depth & complexity) Method Champenoise from fine Monmouthshire Pinot Noir. Iechyd da!

Cheese 3. Snowdonia Black Bomber £4.00 200g truckle A mature cheddar, but so creamy – a cheese to keep the whole family happy. Of course you could always bring Snowdonia Red Storm along as well for a tasty mature red cheese.

More Cheese

An original & classic chicken liver pâté recipe by original & classic Margaret Carter from Rhuthun. Proper chicken liver pâté with real flavour.

Gin 8

7. Da Mhile Botanical Gin £19.00 35cl Crush a watermelon with some ice before leaving home – add gin to taste. Did you know this gin won the ‘BOOM’ award last year for best organic drink?

Snack 8. From our Farm Chilli Flavour Biltong. £3.00 40g Gourmet biltong from delicately seasoned prime cuts of Pembrokeshire reared beef – what’s not to love? (not suitable for vegetarians or vegans)

4. Peli Pabo £3.50 100g drained weight Perfect balls of light & fresh goats’ cheese from Dulas on Anglesey – at the request of my wife! Elegant and lovely on a cocktail stick as a canapé – or in your tapas, mezze, salad.

Snacks 5. Jones Crisps, Halen Mon Sea Salted £2.00 150g

1 3

The right salt makes all the difference... obviously, the sharing pack would be best!

www.taste-blas.co.uk

’n Mix 12

Chutney

Salami

9. The Preservation Society – Apple & Ale Chutney £3.50 for a 205g jar.

11. Trealy Farm Fennel Salami £4.50 70g sliced pack

Packed with flavour & using fruit from home growers of the Wye Valley.

Superb mild salami with the subtle tang of whole fennel seeds. Multi award-winning master charcuteriers from Monmouthshire, using free range & traditional breeds.

Crackers 10. Cradocs Miso & Wasabi £3.00 80g

A lovely light biscuit, almost a wafer, with bright flavourings and great with cheese or pâté. Some Welsh products are like mirrors of their creators – these crackers reflect the passion of Allie and Ella from Brecon

Fish 12. Black Mountain Smokery Traditional Smoked Salmon £11.00 200g Traditionally cured & smoked, hand cut, high quality fish. Life’s too short to consider an inferior product.

Salad 13. Blas ar Fwyd Coleslaw £1.75 225g

A product that holiday makers visiting Wales always contact us about from home, asking where they can buy some more!

Soft Drink

14. Lurvill’s Delight Union Cola £2.00 330ml

Deliciously dry Welsh botanical soda for the adults of the party. A lovely soft drink, softly sparkling, well flavoured with balanced sweetness. A ravishing taste from the Rhondda.

Juice 15. Aber Valley Apple Juice £3.40 70cl

A lovely cloudy juice from hand-pressed apples on the farm at the heart of the Brecon Beacons. Lovely chilled, but try unchilled to savour the full flavour.

Soft Drink 16. Heartsease Raspberry Lemonade £1.25 330ml in glass Great to have reduced sugar recipes for a lovely summery soft drink from the Radnor hills.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Even more Cheese

Soft Drink

17. Organic Halloumi - Caws Teifi £5.00 for 200g pack

21. Llanllyr Source Fiery Ginger Beer

Just in case you’re taking a small BBQ with you on the picnic. A superb grill.

Llanllyr Source water and mixers are great but their fiery ginger beer, with its real ginger bite, is just the tonic for a barmy summer’s day.

Lager

Cake

18. Wrexham Lager £2.25 330ml

22. Popty Bara Brith Fruitcake

The first lager brewed in the UK and served on the ill-fated Titanic. Great choice for a boating picnic!

Made to a traditional family recipe by a Snowdonia based family business founded in 1900, this moist, rich fruitcake is a sweet, and convenient, way to finish a picnic.

Sandwich

Salami

29. Welsh Lady Lemon Curd £2.95 311g

23. Cwm Farm Laverbread Salami

A major award-winning product from the Llŷn peninsula to slather on your sourdough bread.

Butter

Snack

20. Tŷ Tanglwyst, Salted Butter £3.25 200g

24. Trail Head Beef Jerky

Handmade on the farm in Pyle (Y Pîl) near Bridgend - ideal for your sourdough or scones. Best in Wales, in my opinion!

Made from Welsh beef, these delicately smoked high protein snacks come in an assortment of flavours from classic to spicy and are perfect for a quick snack or as part of a spread.

Chutney 22

If it’s good enough for the Foreign Office, it’s good enough for us – their home-reared salami with laverbread is a favourite at UK embassy soirees.

26 18

25. Little Grandma’s Kitchen Inferno Chutney Originally consisting of recipes from a venerable family cookbook, the range now includes Inferno Chutney made from incendiary naga chillies – perfect if you like it hot, really hot.

Port 26. Celteg Welsh Elderport Just because it’s a picnic doesn’t mean you can’t round off your cheese board with a nice glass of port. Try this lovely elder and blackberry variation handcrafted in Wales.

Blanket or Throw 27. (background)Melin Tregwynt

Inferno Chutney

www.taste-blas.co.uk

What a great selection of blankets, get one for the beach & another for the hills.

ST JOHN

ASMA KHAN

HANG FIR E

OLLY SMITH

ZOE ADJONYOH JOSÉ PIZARRO BEE WILSON TOMMY HEANEY BREWER JAEGA WISE YNYSHIR’S GARETH WARD ROSIE BIRKETT DJ BBQ JOSH EGGLETON ELLY PEAR STREET FOOD NIGHT MARKET FEASTS COOKERY SCHOOL FORAGING TOURS MASTERCLASSES DRINKS THEATRE KIDS GO FREE WYE VALLEY MEADERY DUSTY KNUCKLE SWSHI BROTHER THAI CWLBOX TREALY FARM CHARCUTERIE OVER 200 FOOD STALLS

Wristbands and tickets on sale now at:

www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com @afoodfestival #AFF2019 AFF-Taste Blas-Halfpage.indd 1

05/06/2019 14:41

Great cider is a timeless joy to us at Apple County. We make real cider and perry from 100% freshly pressed juice. Each cider is made from a single variety of bitter-sweet apples all grown in local orchards. We approach cider-making with all the skills and reverence of a traditional winemaker, allowing the distinctive �avours of each variety to develop through a slow, cool fermentation. Our ciders have won acclaim from chefs, critics, writers, and foodies alike. Valentine Warner, Oz Clarke and Pete Brown have all expressed their appreciation for Apple County Cider.

www.applecountycider.co.uk

Our cider is made on Whitehouse Farm near Skenfrith in Monmouthshire. This lush county is nestled between the Brecon Beacons National Park and the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and is peppered with historic castles. From the farm, we enjoy stunning views across the Monnow valley where the river marks the Welsh border. If you are visiting, enjoy a tasting at our cellar door or soak up the view on our 3 mile orchard walk. If you are staying at one of the Welsh Rarebits Hotels then ask for an Apple County Cider at the bar. come and see Apple county cider at The Royal Welsh show and Try our multi award winning ciders.

Whitehouse Farm, Newcastle, Monmouthshire NP25 5NS 01600 750835 www.taste-blas.co.uk

AWARD WINNING TRADITIONAL WELSH CAKES, BARA BRITH AND SHORTBREAD BISCUITS POPTY BAKERY LTD, LLANLLECHID, BANGOR, GWYNEDD LL57 3HU TEL: 01248 600517 WWW.POPTY.CO.UK

Salami / Snacking / Chorizo / Biltong / Nduja Cwm Farm Charcuterie Products www.cwmfarm.co.uk / Twitter @cwmfarmsalami / cwmfarm@hotmail.co.uk

07446 555102 Mul� Award Winning Salami with a Welsh Twist 22

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Cool Cymru Chill out over summer with Lowri Haf Cooke as she takes the coolest road-trip ever around Wales... Forte’s Ice cream, Llandudno Onorio Forte came to Llandudno from Mortale (now Monforte) in the central Italian region of Lazio. He used to sell his ice cream – a family recipe – from his van, and opened his famous cafe restaurant in 1926. Forte’s is still going strong, run by David, his grandson, and offers 35 tempting ice cream flavours. Amongst recent award-winners are the Classic Vanilla, Rum and Raisin, and Blackberry Sorbet. But for a cut above the rest, give the Gold Star-awarded Mascarpone and Caramelised Fig Ice Cream a test – described ‘exquisite’ by the Great Taste judges in 2018. Forte’s Ice Cream, 69 Mostyn Street, Llandudno, Conwy LL30 2NN; tel: 01492 471193

Cadwalader’s, Cricieth What could possibly top a swim in Cricieth on Penrhyn Llŷn? How about a traditional ice cream cone from Cadwalader’s, and a sunset to break your heart? Tear your eyes away from the view towards the distant Rhinogydd mountains, and walk uphill towards the native Welsh castle. Around the corner you’ll find the parlour that’s the pride of Eifionydd since it opened in 1927. Hannah Cadwalader’s original family recipe included ‘a great deal of love and care’, and from veganfriendly sorbets, to gluten-free cones, all needs are still catered for. You’ll find branches in Tenby, Porthmadog and Betws y Coed – and a two-for-one deal on Sundaes each Monday at the parlour in Cardiff Bay. As the old question goes, ‘How many ‘C’’s are there in Cricieth? There’s only one when it comes to fans of ice cream!

Green and Jenks, Monmouth and Cardiff Green and Jenks could lay claim to being Wales’ oldest ice cream maker. They are able to trace their origins back to Victorian entrepreneur, and ancestor of the current owners, Frederick Green and the dairy he set up in 1888 on Albany Road, Cardiff – Roath Park Dairy Company. Nowadays, their stunning gelato (ranked in the top 20 in the UK by The Guardian) and stylish but cosy café come parlour, make Green and Jenks the place to go in Monmouth. The home-made gelato, much of which is gluten-free, is available in myriad orthodox, interesting and seasonal flavours, such as apple and blackberry, marmalade and our personal favourites, the Great Taste Award winning flavours “Chuckleberry Frozen Yogurt” made with chuckleberrys from a local fruit farm and “Caffe Latte” made with their own espresso coffee. Whilst they still wholesale their gelato under the Roath Park Dairy name, charmingly, events are coming full circle with the imminent opening of their new parlour and deli on Wellfield Road, a stone’s throw from the original Cardiff dairy.

Cadwalader’s, The Iris, Castle Street, Cricieth Gwynedd LL52 0DP; tel: 01766 523665

Green and Jenks, 11 Agincourt Square, Monmouth NP25 3DY, tel: 01600 711 657

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Conti’s, Lampeter As ice cream fashions and modern palates have evolved over time, one flavour has come to define the zeitgeist. You’ll find salted caramel ice cream all over the world, but for some, the finest is from Conti’s of Lampeter! A strange juxtaposition, and a shock to the system, it’s truly a marriage made in heaven between salty and sweet. Like many Italians from Bardi, who travelled to the south Wales valleys, Arthur Conti opened his own ‘Bracchi’ cafe. His son Leno migrated west to Ystalafera, before settling in 1946 in Lampeter, where locals fondly remember his legendary ‘Coke Floats’. His daughter Jo, a costume designer (with Pobol y Cwm and Casualty), and her son Tom ensure that the famous family ice cream lives on. The secret of their success is by respecting tradition, then offering new twists to tempt the customers of Ceredigion. Conti’s, 5 Harford Square, Lampeter, Ceredigion SH48 7HD; tel: 01570 422223

Llanfaes Dairy, Brecon What was originally a grocer’s at the heart of the Brecon Beacons is now one of Wales’ biggest foodie attractions. In 1995, Paul and Eirlys Cole expanded their shop to include an ice cream parlour, but by 2003, it was all about their iced artisan delights. Located opposite Christ College, you’d be wise to avoid the school rush hour, but take your pick, at any one time, from 42 seasonal flavours. A popular flavour over Easter was the classic Creme Egg, but during summer, try the Jaffa Cake, Ferrero Rocher or Raspberry Pavlova. An unexpected favourite with grown-ups is Kinder Bueno, whilst kids go mad in Brecon for Bubble Gum. A thousand litres of ice cream are churned daily over summer, to keep up with the high demand. For a blast from the past, go for the classic Vanilla, Fruit Cake or Rum and Raisin. Llanfaes Dairy Ice Cream Bar, 19 Bridge Street, Brecon LD3 8AH; tel: 01874 625892

Mario’s, Cross Hands Third-generation Italian-Welsh ice cream maker, Mario Dallevalle, is famous all over South Wales. You’ll find his first name at supermarkets, and attractions from Gower, Barry Island and Cardiff ’s New Theatre. At their base in Cross Hands, for over forty years, Mario and family have produced ‘the cream of Carmarthenshire’. They use wholesome Welsh milk and thick double cream from farmer John Phillips’ herd at Cwm Farm in Cwmffrwd. A firm favourite at the ‘Hufen Iâ’ shop at St Fagans National Museum of History is Chocolate, followed by Strawberry and Honeycomb. There’s even a dairy free range, as well as alcohol sorbets - try the Apple Cider sorbet midsummer. For a taste of the exotic, go for the zesty Kalamansi sorbet which secured a 2018 Gold Great Taste award. Mario’s Ice Cream, Unit H, Heol y Plas, Cross Hands Food Park SA14 6SX; tel: 01269 845080

Joe’s, Swansea Mumbles may claim Verdi’s but when you find yourself in Swansea, head straight for the suburb of St. Helen’s. Between Dylan Thomas’ Uplands and Brangwyn Hall, Swansea Jacks go mad for Joe’s. The story goes back to 1895, when Luigi Cascarini first came to Swansea, and opened a successful chain of cafes. His son, Guiseppe (Joe) opened his ice cream parlour at 85 St. Helen’s Road in 1922, introducing Swansea to fresh vanilla gelato. Enrico, Joe’s son, created the famed ‘soft scoop’, that is still the pride of Swansea. You’ll find Joe’s all over, from Harrod’s to Llanelli, and the corner parlour next to Cardiff ’s Roath Park. Popular flavours include blue Bubblegum and rose-scented Turkish Delight. But for the authentic experience, head for Joe’s HQ, for the ‘thrilla’ that is vanilla! Joe’s Ice Cream, Swansea, 85 St. Helen’s Road, Swansea SA1 4BQ; tel: 01792 702265

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Tel: 01686 668933 www.montysbrewery.co.uk

A brand proud to be WELSH! Visit the winery or shop online at www.celticwines.co.uk

Celtic Country Wines, The Winery, Henllan, SA44 5TD

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Wright’s Food Emporium

Destination There are places in Wales you simply have to visit to consider yourself a Welsh ‘bolgi’ or gourmand. Keep these foodie guides to hand, as these epicurean epicentres are surrounded by local gastro treasures. Book a weekend away, and make ‘bwyd a diod’ the highlight of your stay; let Lowri Haf Cooke guide you on the first of our taste.blas Welsh food pilgrimages...

Welsh Food Mecca: Wrights Food Emporium, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire After helping to establish Y Polyn as a Carmarthenshire gastro hot-spot, Simon and Maryann Wright (and family) created something different; today, Wright’s Food Emporium is a mecca for Welsh gourmands . You don’t need to be a food hipster, however, to enter the old Golden Grove – just bring an appetite for life and bold Welsh flavours . Originally based in Nantgaredig, this contemporary Welsh hybrid of cafe-deli-bar-restaurant crossed the Tywi to Llanarthne in 2015. Located just a stone’s throw from the National Botanic Garden of Wales, it shines a similar light on local, seasonal produce. To your left, as you step inside, you’ll find a tableful of cakes, including meringues – served with seasonal fruit - as big as your plate. To your right, gaze above at the daily blackboard – the Rarebit (with or without ’nduja spicy sausage) is a classic, as is the Pork Belly Cubano, both available all year round. But savour those seasonal ‘shooting star’ ingredients – blink, and you

www.taste-blas.co.uk

really might miss them – such as coracle caught sewin from the Tywi. Take a walk through the deli – stock up on Batch 62 Single Botanical Juniper Organic gin from Talog, to the west of Cynwyl Elfed. Or wander into the bar, and take your pick from Welsh ales – Tomos & Ilford from Glamorgan, Loka Polly from Mold, or Seren from Clunderwen.There’s also a variety of natural European wines – also available in Wright’s Wines in Cardiff ’s Castle Arcade. Out back there’s a pleasant sun-trap to while away the hours; grab a book from the extensive foodie library, and savour over Hard Lines coffee from Cardiff, or James Gourmet, roasted in Ross on Wye. Request a bottle of catsup with your meal – it’s plastered with Castro, the family’s three-legged cat. Once a feature in the cafe, he’s now retired upstairs, only rarely heard meowing for his supper. Amongst the friendly foodie chatter, Castro’s spirit is still strong, welcoming all to this Welsh food community that’s like a home away from home. Wright’s Food Emporium, The Golden Grove, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire SA32 8JU; tel: 01558 668929

Coaltown Coffee Roasters

Heavenly

Dining While you’re in the area... Coffee: Coaltown Coffee Roasters, Foundry Road, Rhydaman SA18 2LS; tel: 01269 400265 (25 minutes; 11 miles South-East) Hoffi coffi? Grab a cup of Joe from the Roastery Canteen, HQ of Coaltown Coffee in Ammanford. Head straight for the espresso bar, and order a seasonal special – the Maple Syrup Latte with Halen Môn oaksmoked seasalt was a recent revelation, blended with the award-winning Black Gold No. 3 Espresso. Take a pew, and enjoy the view of a proper roastery, then tuck in to an espressobrownie or home-made sourdough pizza. Whatever you do, stop pinching yourself. You’re not in San Fran – you’re in Rhydaman! Bar: Ginhaus Deli, Market Street, Llandelio SA19 6AH; tel: 01558 823030 (13 minutes; 7 miles NorthEast) Cross the Tywi from Ffairfach and follow the pastelhued hillside houses to the dreamy market town of Llandeilo. Make a left, and then a right onto Market Street where the drinking den of your dreams awaits! It’s both a gin bar and a deli chock-full of Welsh produce, including Strawberry Gin Jam from Miranda’s Preserves. How about a Gimlet or a Tom Collins? Faced with a veritable wall of gin, you may feel a tad overwhelmed, with a choice of over 240 gins from 46 countries. Make it easy on yourself and choose a Welsh G&T from the selection at ‘Cornel Cymru’. P.S. There’s a train station within walking distance! Ice Cream: Heavenly, London House, 60 Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo SA19 6EN; tel: 01558 822800 (13 minutes, 7 miles East) Before departing Llandeilo turn onto Rhosmaen Street, and ponder the philosophical question; ‘What if Willy Wonka were Welsh?’. You’ll find the answer at Heavenly Exquisite Desserts. Not only will you

discover a luxury chocolate emporium, but also the most indulgent spot in Wales for afternoon tea. However, the main attraction has got to be the homemade artisan ice cream; don’t leave without tasting one of over 200 fresh flavours. The peach melba is to die for, along with blood orange, and pink grapefruit sorbet. As in life, the biggest challenge will be one of restraint. Life’s too short as it is, so fill your boots! Restaurant: Y Polyn, Capel Dewi SA32 7LH; tel: 01267 290000 (5 minutes: 2.9 miles North-East) Finish off your long-weekend - or make a decision to extend! – by discovering the foodie holy grail that is Y Polyn. There you’ll find the definition of a Welsh gastro-pub, thanks to husband and wife team, Chef Susan and Mark Manson. The Sunday lunch is an entry on every Welsh foodie’s ‘Bucket List’, or consider booking a superlative three-course supper. Pack your elasticated-waist trousers for a feast to remember; Susan’s fish soup is the ultimate sharing dish as a starter, whilst the Knickerbocker Glory is a gastro ode to joy!

Ginhaus Deli

Pub: The White Hart Inn, Llanddarog SA32 8NT; tel: 01267 275395 (10 minutes; 5 miles South-West) How about a pub, after all that grub? Preferably a cosy, historic, thatched-roof affair, from the time of Owain Glyndŵr, the last native Prince of Wales. Look no further than Llanddarog where The White Hart Inn has welcomed guests since 1371. Along with a blast from the past, you’ll get a taste of contemporary Wales, thanks to the entrepreneurial nous of the Coles family - inkeepers since 1994. Back in 1999, they established Coles Family Brewery, which has expanded to include an in-house distillery. Take your pick of award-winning ales, including the Coles Carmarthen Gold – or go for the SA32 Vodka or Cadogan 1791 Carmarthen Dark Rum. The ‘Cwrw Blasus’ says it all, as does the greeting at the door: ‘Croeso i’r Hydd Gwyn’.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Y Polyn

The White Hart Inn

North East Wales Feature sponsored by Food & Drink Wales If you wanted proof of just how vibrant the Welsh food and drink scene is right now, you need only look at the amazing array of food and drink represented at a recent Discover North East Wales showcase hosted by Hannah Blythyn AM, Assembly Member for Delyn, at the Senydd in Cardiff in partnership with Food & Drink Wales, Food Technology Centre/Grŵp Llandrillo Menai and Menter a Busnes/Fine Food Cluster. Lesley Griffiths AM Minister for Environment, Energy and Rural Affairs said: “Welsh food and drink are key components of the Welsh economy and also an essential part of the tourism offer here in Wales, giving us the opportunity to provide visitors with a real sense of place. The outstanding businesses represented at the ‘Discover North East Wales’ showcase event are prime examples of this, illustrating the strength, depth, and quality that we can offer here in Wales.” In summing up Hannah Blythyn AM said: “It was fantastic to be able to bring so many of North East Wales’ successful and emerging food and drink producers to the Senedd. I’m pleased to have been able to provide the platform to showcase what we have to offer in our corner of the country to a wide and influential audience. “The growing food and drink offer of the region not only adds to our amazing tourism offer that I’m a keen advocate of, but also provides jobs and is a key contributor to the local economy.”

A spirited performance Leading the way, were a number of companies at the forefront of the craft beer and gin boom in Wales. Since 2011 Hafod Brewery has created over 50 different beers, from Iron Age ale to IPAs, all from the four ingredients you should find in good ale: malted barley, hops, water and yeast. Using the best quality ingredients, not the cheapest, the quality of the beer speaks for itself. Cariad Gins use the purest water sourced from the foothills of the North Wales mountains, a traditional copper alembic still and six essential botanicals infused with the finest local Gorse Flowers as the basis for their wonderful, flavoured gins. Wrexham Lager is a great story of renewal and rebirth. After a slow decline at the hands of a plc, local businessmen Vaughan and Mark Roberts have brought historic Wrexham Lager, Britain’s first ever lager brewery, back to life using the original recipe, as it was on the Titanic, and garnering numerous awards and accolades along the way.

Hannah Blythyn AM

www.taste-blas.co.uk

is Tasting Good! Dovecote Brewery is a microbrewery, specialising in unfined and unfiltered cask and bottle conditioned, traditional and modern ales. They already have a number of their own micropubs where you can taste the brews along with a range of bespoke, entirely natural Dove gins made using spices and fruit infusions. There are ambitious plans to open more micropubs too. And then there’s Shlizzy with their lovely gift-sized bottles of fruit infused vodka and gin in apple, blackcurrant, cherry, gooseberry, plum and raspberry flavours

Fine foods aplenty Not to be outdone, food producers were also present in force. Patchwork Traditional Food Co is one of Wales’ longest established artisan producers, producing a range of award-winning pate’s from classic chicken liver pate through to more unusual pates such as Wild Boar Liver Pate with Rum and Ginger. There’s also an extensive vegetarian range. Llaeth y Llan is another well-established producer supplying retailers, big and small, with delectable award-winning yogurts from the family farm. Newer on the scene, and perhaps a little less synonymous with Wales, is Sabor de Amor. Also a family concern, the company specialises in authentic Spanish cooking sauces and condiments. Their award winning Paella sauce is proving a real winner but also look out for their tapenades and alioli. At the other end of the scale Maelor Foods Ltd is the UK’s premier state of the art purpose-built poultry processing facility. Based in Wrexham, all its products carry the British Red Tractor mark ensuring the highest standards of animal welfare as well as the very best quality meat. So keep an eye on your local supermarket for delicious Welsh chicken! Historically, North East Wales’ most famous food is the Denbigh Plum. Sweet and juicy, this ancient variety is the only plum native to Wales and now has protected origin status. Staying with the sweet theme, artisan chocolatier Aballu Chocolates produces delicious high quality, innovative chocolates, using the best ingredients and no artificial additives or preservatives. They look as good as they taste. With a client list that includes Virgin Trains and Ridiculously Rich by Alana (of Apprentice fame), it’s no surprise that The Pudding Compartment makes great cakes and desserts. With an ambitious plan for growth the range will be increasingly available in retail and hospitality across Wales.

Working the local network Many of the producers taking part wouldn’t be nearly as successful without the support of both local and national organisations that include Flintshire, Denbigh and Wrexham tourism departments who were on hand to help out, ably assisted by the Good Grub Club, a local co-operative of independent business promoting food and drink and local tourism. Also attending were support organisations Food Skills Cymru and Food and Drink Federation Cymru. Hafod Brewery: www.welshbeer.com Cariad Gins: clwydianrangedistillery.co.uk www.wrexhamlager.co.uk www.patchworkfoods.com Llaeth Y Llan: www.villagedairy.co.uk www.maelorfoods.co.uk www.thepuddingcompartment.co.uk www.sabordeamor.com www.aballu.co.uk www.shlizzy.co.uk www.northeastwales.wales/ goodgrubclub.wales/ businesswales.gov.wales/foodanddrink/

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Summer Foraging It’s the start of the berry season! Adele Nozedar encourages all to sample the berrylicious delights on offer this summer. Ah, berries…. For many of us, they’re the best part of the wild harvest, and with good reason! Blackberries, for example, are so much a part of our landscape that we sometimes forget what a valuable addition they are to the foraged goodies in our basket. I’d guess that picking those common, delicious and easy-to-find little flavour bombs, for many of us, are the beginning and end of picking the wild stuff - and that’s just fine. And for those of us lucky enough to be in Wales, how about wimberries, or ‘llus’ in Welsh? Part of the summer landscape, for me, is a languid walk in the Brecon Beacons, gathering the glittering black/blue berries which stain lips and teeth purple. Berries, more than any other part of foraging, tell the story of Summer in Wales, gathering not just fruit but the heat of the day, the calls of the birds, the sounds of the water and the delight of the flavours…

What exactly IS a berry? Good question, but you may wish you hadn’t asked… A proper, official berry (according to botanists) is a simple fleshy fruit formed from the ovary of one flower, with seeds embedded in the flesh. Typically, berries are juicy, rounded, brightly-coloured, sweet or sour, and don’t have a stone or pit, although many pips or seeds may be present. Blueberries, gooseberries,

cranberries, grapes, tomatoes, peppers and even bananas are actually berries. In fact - just to astonish you all a bit more - blackberries, strawberries, and raspberries aren’t actually berries at all! They’re compound drupes! At the end of the day, though, we are allowed to ignore these formalities and eat our fill of lots of lovely fresh free fruits!

I don’t care what they are! When can I pick them? The season does vary a little from year to year depending on the weather and where you are, but a good rule of thumb is to keep your eyes open for ripening wild fruits any time from July onwards. Also, there are lots of garden plants, which you might think of as purely ornamental, which also yield berries! Mahonia (aka Oregon Grape) will fruit from as early as May onwards, and Himalayan Honeysuckle has berries which taste of a spicy dark chocolate. Rosehips, too, are easy to overlook, and ripen at different times according to the variety of the rose – and you can eat ALL rose hips. The best ones are the Rosa rugosa ones – they’re very common, growing to be as big, or even bigger, than cherry tomatoes! Find a nice bright red one and squeeze to see if it’s ripe; if there’s no distinct ‘squish’ then move on to another one. Peel away a little of the flesh, and taste. It’s exotic, a cross between oranges and vanilla – really! You’ll always remember the first time you try your first raw rosehip flesh; I’ve had people gasp in surprised delight! Just make sure you don’t eat the furry little pippy bit. Here’s the easiest-ever rosehip syrup recipe for you. It’s fine to double up the measurements: • • • •

500g ripe rosehips 250g caster sugar Water Squeeze of lemon juice

Method Wash the hips thoroughly, pop into a pan, and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and let simmer for 10 minutes or so until soft, then strain through a finemeshed sieve making sure that you remove those furry little pips, which can irritate your throat. Add the sugar, bring to a boil, lower the heat and cook gently, stirring from time to time so the liquid doesn’t burn. Reduce the volume by about a third and leave to cool. Once cool add a squeeze of lemon juice. Use as your imagination warrants; drizzle over ice cream or yoghurt…even add to a glass of chilled prosecco. Iechyd da! Adele Nozedar

www.taste-blas.co.uk

www.gomer.co.uk

EATING IN OR EATING OUT?

£14.99

£9.99

BWYTA ADRE NEU FWYTA MAS?

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Drinking in the Cool and refreshing on a long summer evening or a hot sunny afternoon, cider’s getting a bit of a revamp at the moment with all kinds of innovative things being thrown into the mix. New Welsh producers are bringing oak and rum casks into production, pressing apples by hand, reinventing orchards, dabbling with dragons and involving local communities. All to produce a cider for every palate, from Anglesey to Ponty. And it’s just in time for the good weather. So, whether you like a hint of fizz and fruit or prefer a deep and dark complex taste, we have the cider for you. Now, how do you like them apples?

Apple County - Deciderly Good Whitehouse Farm lives near Skenfrith, Monmouthshire, snug between the Brecon Beacons National Park and the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Channelling their inner winemakers, cidermakers Ben and Steph use slow, cool fermentation methods and select only a single variety of apple for each type of cider. They installed the first terraced orchards in Wales, to maximise that elusive Welsh sun, and the cider tastes all the better for it. Tasting notes: bottled as Vilberie Medium Dry, Dabinett Medium and Yarlington Mill Medium Sweet, the taste ranges from light apple juice with a bit of a kick to deep mellow flavours with a brandy-like finish. Drink it: with raspberry or rhubarb fruit juice for a sweeter, pinker taste. Find out more: http://applecountycider.co.uk/

Gwynt y Ddraig: Breathe a Cider Relief Gwynt y Ddraig, the wind of the dragon, is a firebreathing brewery in Llantwit Fardr near Pontypridd with apples picked and pressed by hand. Born as a hobby in 2001, Gwynt now sells in seven countries worldwide, carrying names like Welsh Warrior and Black Dragon into the collective cider consciousness. Farmer’s Pride and the Fiery Fox mingle with the Old Crow and Farmhouse Vintage Scrumpy, making a tasting session sound like a mix between Dylan Thomas and Roald Dahl. But it’s the Gold Medal Cider, the first CAMRA gold award for Welsh cider producers, that remains their pride and joy. Tasting notes: oak-induced subtle aroma of autumn leaves. Smooth with a bit of a mineral kick. Drink it: with Dragon’s Caerphilly cheese. Find out more: https://www.gwyntcidershop.com/

www.taste-blas.co.uk

summer sun Ty Gwyn - Slice, Slice Baby James McConnel grew apples for large cider companies while his stepson played at Glastonbury. A surplus of apples one autumn led to the birth of Ty Gwyn, a dream continued by stepson musician Alex Culpin. Both music and mixology, he claims, need the big three: passion, patience and practice. Using the only belt press in the country, the results include naturally still draft ciders and bottled beauts with a light sparkle. The Cider Shop near the Black Mountains runs free tasting sessions and you can also order cider online. Tasting notes: the Medium Sweet Cider carries the lightest aroma and taste, with a gentle fizz. Drink it: with your favourite song playing. Find out more: https://www.tygwyncider.co.uk/

Old Monty’s – The Oakey Cokey It began, as all good stories do, with a hobby, a handpress and a mill. That was 2006. By 2018, Old Monty shot to glory by winning the best Cidermaker in Wales Award at the Welsh Cider Championships and the rest, as they say, was history. Situated in Montgomery and only using local apples, Monty relies on natural fermentation to produce their fare. Along with traditional ciders, sip on the Old Monty Oakey Cokey, a potent cider brewed in rum barrels for 12 months to soak up the flavour. Tasting notes: deep aromas fuelled by rum casks and oak in the Oakey Cokey. Drink it: try it hot with a slice of lemon and a dash of bourbon Find out more: http://www.oldmonty.co.uk/

Jaspels – Living Appley Ever After Jaspels, the name an acronym for owners Janet and Ade as well as their red squirrel mascot, takes a different approach. They gather unwanted apples from across Anglesey to produce five unique craft ciders using a handmade wooden press. Through social apple contributions and arty posters with a sense of fun, they aim to revitalise the community’s sense of heritage and craft. Batches sell out fast and names like Autumn and Woodland reflect their love of the outdoors. Tasting notes: the subtle, refreshing Sundaze fits long summer evenings while the Heritage Dry Cider tastes crisp throughout. Drink it: with a slice of apple or even cinnamon as autumn draws in. Find out more: https://jaspels.co.uk/

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Hallets – Incider Knowledge Blaengawney Farm near Caerphilly forms the hub of Hallets Cider Production. They ferment apple varieties separately and then blend the results to create a range of draught ciders and the bottled Hallets Real Cider. Hallets take traditional techniques and mix them up through stainless steel wine fermenters, ancient oak barrels and more. Taking a stand against syrup, they produce Heartbreaker for the connoisseur and National Treasure for those who love a punch of fruit. Rum Cask and Oak Aged reveal their origins and the Dabinett Single Variety sings classic vintage tones. Tasting notes: the Heartbreaker delivers a hit of punchy green apple with a slight astringent finish. Drink it: with simple pork dishes or on its own. Find out more: https://halletsrealcider.co.uk/ Abigail King

Hop to it! If cider’s not your thing, try a zesty chilled summer ale. Monty’s, from Montgomery, has you covered with optimistic golden ale Sunshine. Its signature brew pairs well with spicy food or strong cheese yet it’s still an easy-sipper. It revels in its floral and citrus aromas, giving a distinctive apricot finish on a long summer night. Whoosh from Untapped, Monmouthshire, proved so popular as a summer seasonal, it’s now part of the core range. Aromatic with a fruity nose and bright, zesty flavours, this extra pale ale blends four American hop varieties to reach its clean, dry finish.

Grey Trees in Aberdare brew Digger’s Gold. Inspired by the black gold of South Wales and the industrial revolution, their liquid gold fuels barbecues with its citrus aromas and subtle, bitter aftertaste. Crafted with Marris Otter pale malt, Welsh water and American hops, this is CAMRA award-winning golden ale. Then there’s Wrexham Lager. Subtly hopped, with a clean aroma, it’s refreshing and perfect for summer. It also packs a historical punch. Born in 1882, Wrexham Lager was the first to reach Australia and even boarded the Titanic. A multinational takeover went horribly wrong and it folded 20 odd years ago. Buying the rights for £1, a local businessman reintroduced the original recipes and Wrexham Lager is back. Right in time for summer.

Want something a little more spirited? Try these sophisticated Summer Drinks from Aber Falls and friends Aber Falls in collaboration with Dylan’s Restaurant

Welsh Dry Gin Aber Falls offers a taste of the spectacular Welsh coastline with its very own take on the ever popular G&T. Perfect for those summer days, this classic perfectly pairs the distillery’s award-winning Welsh Dry Gin with Llanllyr Source tonic water, ice and a lime wedge to garnish.

Welsh 75 Another summer favourite, the Welsh 75 combines floral notes from the Aber Falls Violet Liqueur, citrus, and a blast of bubbles. In a cocktail shaker, add all the ingredients except the Prosecco and then shake and double strain into a Champagne flute, before topping with bubbles and neatly garnishing to finish.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

7 -8 Medi / September MEWN PARTNERIAETH GYDA IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Sain Ffagan Amgueddfa Werin Cymru amgueddfa.cymru/sainffagan

St Fagans National Museum of History museum.wales/stfagans

www.finewinesdirectuk.com www.finewinesdirectuk.com

Open to the trade trade and and public public

www.finewinesdirectuk.com

Open to the trade and public Open to the trade and public

Open to the trade and public

242 Penarth Road, Cardiff CF11 8TU 242 Penarth Road, Cardiff CF11champagnes, 8TU 1000 wines, fortiﬁed wines and spirits in stock alongside premium lagers, ales Tel: 029 Over 2078 7500 Fax: 029 2078 7510 Tel: 029 2078 7500 Fax: 029 2078 7510 Email: enquiries@finewinesdirectuk.com Email: enquiries@finewinesdirectuk.com www.finewinesdirectuk.com Supplier to some of the ﬁnest hotels, gastro pubs, restaurants and caterers in Wales www.finewinesdirectuk.com 242 Penarth Road, Cardiff CF11 8TU Tel: 029 2078Road, 7500 Fax: 029CF11 20788TU 7510 242 Penarth Cardiff Email: Tel: 029enquiries@finewinesdirectuk.com 2078 7500 Fax: 029 2078 7510 www.finewinesdirectuk.com Email: enquiries@finewinesdirectuk.com

and ciders

Open to the public - buy through our website or spacious shop adjacent to our bonded warehouse

www.finewinesdirectuk.com

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Pael l a

Recipes

Chef Angela Gray © A L S Photography

INGREDIENTS Base • 12 medium raw tiger prawns in their shells • 130ml olive oil • 4 good sized free-range chicken thighs on the bone • 4 fat garlic cloves, finely grated • with sea salt to make a paste • 1L water • 1 tablespoon Marigold Swiss vegetable powder • 1 large onion, peeled and finely diced • 2 teaspoons smoked paprika • 400g chopped tomatoes, cherry and Santa have great flavour • 100ml dry white wine • ½ teaspoon saffron soaked in 2 tablespoons hot water • 300g Calasparra or other short-grain rice • 250g beans, e.g. broad beans or lovely summer peas • 250g mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded • 100g live cockles (optional) • 1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped • 1 lemon, cut into wedges to serve

until they turn pink and start to turn golden. Stir in one of the pasted garlic cloves and cook for 30 seconds. Pour in the water, add the vegetable powder and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes then strain, ready to use. 2.

To start the paella, heat the remaining olive oil in a 26cm paella pan or a similar sized wide pan. Add the chicken thighs and sauté for about five minutes until slightly browned, season with sea salt and black pepper.

Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened. This bit is important, so take it slowly, add a little water and cover with foil so the onion steams, then remove and cook off the moisture until the onions become sticky. Stir in the smoked paprika and cook for one minute, then add the tomatoes and wine; increase the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes until the mixture is paste-like and concentrated.

Stir in the rice, coating the grains well with the juices, followed by the beans. Pour in 800ml of the stock and the saffron with soaking water. Simmer for 20 minutes then arrange the prawns, mussels and cockles on top of the rice, burying them slightly but don’t stir! Arrange the whole prawns on top. Cover with foil and cook for about 10-12 minutes. The mussels and cockles should be open (discard any that don’t) and the prawns should be pink. If the rice looks a little thirsty, stir in some of the leftover stock to give a rich and creamy finish.

Leave to stand for at least 10 minutes before serving. Finish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Serves 4

Angela Gray’s Summer Recipes is available now Order online www.graffeg.com or call 01554 824000

WHAT YOU DO 1.

First, make the stock. Remove the heads and shells from 8 of the prawns, use the remaining 4 as the garnish. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a pan, add the prawn heads and shells and sauté

www.taste-blas.co.uk

S um m er Puddi ng wi th

Recipes

Rose and C assis INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •

850g mixed red/black fruits e.g. raspberries, blackcurrants, good strawberries, a few redcurrants 10-12 slices firm, good quality white bread 3 rounded tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon cassis ½ teaspoon rose essence Glaze 150g frozen red/black fruits 3 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons water 2 tablespoon cassis

Serves 6-8

WHAT YOU DO 1.

Prepare the fruit – pull the redcurrants from their stems then put them, with the raspberries, in a stainless-steel saucepan over a low heat. Taste the fruit for sweetness and add the sugar accordingly. For normal, sweet raspberries and slightly tart redcurrants, add 3 tablespoons or so of sugar. Sometimes you may need slightly less or more. Pour in the water. The currants will start to burst and give out their juice. They need no longer than three or four minutes at a gentle simmer. The fruit should be shiny and there should be plenty of deep-coloured juice in the pan. Turn off the heat and stir in the cassis and rose essence.

Cut the crusts off the bread. Set 1 slice aside for the base, then cut the rest into three long fingers. Using a glass or cup as a template, cut a disc of bread from the reserved slice, dip into the fruit juice and push in to the base of a 2 pint pudding basin. Line the inside of the basin with the strips of bread, dipping them into the juice first, then pushing them together, slightly overlapping to form a secure wall so no fruit escapes. There will be enough bread left over for the top. Fill with the fruit and its juice almost right to the top. Lay the remaining bread on top of the fruit, patching up where necessary. Put the basin in a shallow dish to catch any juice that escapes, then lay a flat plate or small tray on top with a heavy weight to compact the fruit down. Leave overnight in the fridge. To make the glaze, place the fruit and sugar in a pan with 4 tablespoons of water. Bring to the boil and cook for about 10 minutes over a high heat so that the fruit breaks down, releasing all the juice. Pass the fruit and juice through a sieve, use the back of a ladle to push the fruit pulp and juice through into a pan, then stir in the cassis. The glaze should coat the back of a spoon. Cool the glaze, keep in the fridge overnight. To serve, remove the weights, sliding a palette knife around the edge, pushing carefully down between bread and basin so as not to tear the bread. Put a plate on top, and then, holding the plate in place, shake firmly, lift off the basin to reveal your pudding. Spoon the cassis sauce over the top and garnish with some fresh fruit, mint leaves and rose petals.

A classic British pudding that I made in the South of France using local berries and the flavours of rose and Crème de Cassis. Just so beautiful!

Chef Angela Gray © A L S Photography

Angela Gray’s Summer Recipes is available now Order online www.graffeg.com or call 01554 824000

Roas t ed vegetable T h a i cur ry, ga r l ic n aan & crack ed bl a ck

pep per beef j erky serves 2 people Ingredients: • 1 x large onion • 400g mixed vegetables or frozen roasted vegetables • 1 x 500g jar red Thai curry sauce • 100ml olive oil • 300ml coconut milk • 1 bunch coriander • 2 x mini garlic naan breads • 40g Trailhead black pepper beef jerky How to cook 1. Peel and finely dice the onion 2. Peel, prepare and roughly dice the vegetables of

3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

your choice, place on a roasting tray drizzle over the olive oil and season Place the vegetables into a medium heat oven until browned and cooked Sauté the diced onions in a pan, add the Thai red curry sauce and coconut milk then simmer Add the roasted vegetables to the curry and cook until hot Warm the naan bread in the oven Chop the coriander

To Serve Cut open the naan bread, place into a bowl, arrange the roasted vegetable curry on to the bread and top with the black pepper beef jerky garnish with chopped coriander.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Recipes

S t ic k y hon e y a n d

sesa me chicken This is a great alternative to a burger and a sausage. Serve it with a salad, flatbread or cheat and buy pitta bread or wraps. You could even skewer the chicken pieces together and place them on the barbecue for the smoky flavour. Always cook chicken well, and eat immediately.

INGREDIENTS © Aled Llewelyn

• • • • • • • • • • •

3 tablespoons of runny honey 3 teaspoons of soy sauce 1 red chilli 1 clove of garlic, crushed 3 chicken breasts, sliced (or a pack of chicken wings) 1 tablespoon of olive oil/vegetable oil baby gem lettuce salad onions tomatoes sesame seeds

METHOD Dathlu / Celebrate by Lisa Fearn (Gomer Press) £14.99

Transfer this to a freezer bag and add the sliced chicken breast. Mix well to cover all the chicken and marinate in the fridge for at least half an hour, or overnight is fine.

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan or wok and add the chicken and cook for 6-8 minutes. The time may vary according to the size of the chicken pieces.

Add the remaining marinade juices and continue to cook until the chicken is well coated in a sticky sauce. This may take up to 5 or 6 minutes. Be careful, once the sauce becomes sticky it burns quite easily. If it gets too thick and sticky simply add a little water.

To serve, place a few pieces of chicken on the little gem lettuce, add some slices of spring onion and chopped tomatoes. Finally sprinkle the sesame seeds over the chicken. This is so good!

Place the honey, soy sauce, chilli and garlic in a bowl and mix well.

Pistachio

Ice C r e a m

Italian café culture thrived in the Welsh Valleys during the twentieth century and it’s still a big part of the community. Growing up, I made frequent trips to visit my grandmother in Aberdare, and with my pocket money I devoured Servini’s ice cream sundaes before going to Woolworths to buy some pick and mix, or if I was feeling particulary grown-up, a Forever Friends diary. My sister Jess loved pistachio ice cream (she still does), a flavour that can be hard to track down these days. I have fond memories of that subtly sweet, nutty gelato so I decided to make my own. This dairy-free version is easy peasy to make, and it’s no-churn, too. 40 minutes, plus freezing and thawing Serves 4

INGREDIENTS The Occasional Vegan by Sarah Philpott £12.99

• • • • • • •

150g pistachios, shelled (plus extra for decorating) 2 x 400ml cans coconut milk 200ml plant milk 2 tbsp plain flour 50ml maple syrup 2 tsp almond extract 2 tsp natural green food colouring

www.taste-blas.co.uk

METHOD 1.

Put all the ingredients (except the food colouring) into a food processor. Blend on high until smooth then pour the mixture into a large bowl and stir through the food colouring. Pour into a plastic container and top with some chopped pistachios. Freeze for 12 hours or overnight. When you’re ready to serve the ice cream, remove from the freezer and allow to thaw for 15-20 minutes (or longer if the ice cream has been frozen for a few days. Mash with a potato masher for a softer consistency, then top with the chopped pistachios and enjoy.

C H UR ROS WITH S P ICED

Recipes

CHOC OL AT E SAUCE Churros is a Spanish doughnut by any other name, but much easier to make than the sweet dough used to make regular doughnuts. What makes the churros exceptional is the spiced chocolate dipping sauce that you serve with these deep-fried doughnut delights. I could easily drink the chocolate sauce on its own. Serves 4-6

INGREDIENTS • • • • • •

50g Salted butter, melted 1 Teaspoon of ground cinnamon 350ml Boiling water 125g Plain flour 125g Self-raising flour 1 Litre sunflower oil

Measure out the boiled water into a jug and add the butter.

In a large bowl, sieve the plain flour, self-raising flour and cinnamon and pour in the water and butter, beating the mixture with a wooden spoon until you have a smooth and thick dough. Leave to cool for 10 minutes.

To make the sauce, place the chocolate, cream, milk, honey and spices into a pan and melt over a low heat until smooth and shiny. Stir occasionally and keep warm over a low heat.

To cook the churros, fill a large deep saucepan with sunflower oil and heat until a piece of bread browns in around 50 seconds.

Scrape the dough into a piping bag which has been fitted with a star shape nozzle. Pipe the mixture directly into the pan, using scissors to spin off the dough to the desired length. Fry until golden brown, then drain on some kitchen roll before dusting in the cinnamon sugar.

Serve the sauce in an espresso cup or a shot glass with a few churros on the side.

Chocolate Sauce • • • • • • •

250g Dark chocolate 120ml Whole milk 120ml Double cream 2 Tablespoons of honey 1 Teaspoon of cinnamon ½ Teaspoon of chilli powder ½ Teaspoon of ground ginger

Cinnamon Sugar • •

150g Caster sugar 3 teaspoons of cinnamon

Bwyd Beca My Food by Beca LynePirkis (Gomer Press) £16.99

C H ICKPE A A N D

CHI VE S AL AD This is the standard French dressing we use on most of our salads at festivals. Instead of chickpeas you could use cooked brown rice or quinoa. VEGAN and GF SERVES 4 PREP TIME: 15 MINS COOKING TIME: NONE

INGREDIENTS SALAD • 1 x 400g can chickpeas – drained (or 1 can of any other beans you prefer) • ½ red onion – peeled and sliced finely • 4 fresh tomatoes – diced finely • ¼ cucumber – diced finely • 1 yellow pepper – sliced finely • 1 bunch parsley – chopped finely (leaves only) • 1 bunch chives – chopped finely

DRESSING • 2 tbsp lemon juice • 6 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp Dijon mustard (optional) • 1 clove of garlic – chopped finely • sea salt and black pepper

METHOD 1. 2. 3.

Mix dressing ingredients together, stirring thoroughly. Mix all the salad ingredients together in a suitable serving bowl. Add dressing and mix together just before serving.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

No Bones Jones: Festival Cookbook (Y Lolfa) £12.99

Pub food – Redefined

Greytrees drip mat 234x434.pdf

20/05/2014

10:44

Award winning gastropub in the heart of the Brecon Beacons Greytrees drip mat 234x434.pdf

20/05/2014

Groeﬀordd, Brecon, LD3 7SN 01874 665672 www.threehorseshoesgroesﬀordd.com

10:44

CMY

CAMRA & SIBA multi award winning brewers All our products are brewed and packaged on site. We insist on using traditional methods to create intense flavoured Ales whilst injecting a modern twist to produce balanced flavours and highly drinkable beer appealing to all palates. Gift packs, Mini Kegs, Bottles, Glasses & Merchandise are available at our onsite shop, Open 9-5 every weekday. Grey Trees Ind Craft Brewers Unit 5&6 Gasworks Road, Aberaman, Aberdare, RCT, Cf44 6RS Twitter @greytreesbrewer Facebook-Grey Trees Brewery Web Greytreesbrewery.com Tel: 01685 267077

New bar & bottle shop now open Weds to Sun at Old National School, Cardiff Street Aberdare Cf44 7DP, serving our award winning Ales and guest ales in cask, keg and bottles as well as local Ciders and premium Lager.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

BBQ Season: The Art of Marinades

Techniques

As we enter the summer months and you start planning your BBQ parties, why not impress your guests by making your very own meat marinades that will leave them wanting more. Here is a good technique for one of my favourite marinades - Welsh Honey, Lime and Coriander. It helps maintain flavour and keep your meats tender and is suitable for everyone’s taste.

Ingredients • • • • • • • •

60g lime juice and zested limes if using fresh ( should be 5 limes ) 70g Welsh Runny honey 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce 1 Tablespoon olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper

Making your marinade For a good marinade, you need a balance of acid, oil and spice. 1.

So simply mix all the ingredients together in a bowl.

Place your meat/poultry into a zip sealed bag and pour over the marinade, zip the top and mix all over. Leave in the fridge for 12hrs or until you need them.

Remove from the bag and place straight onto the hot BBQ or grill. You are looking for nice grill marks on either side with a nice golden brown colour.

You could also make a spare mix and brush each side of the meat/poultry each time you turn it over to add some extra punch.

If you’re short on time and can’t marinade your meat/ poultry, then you can simply rub the marinade around them and put them straight onto a hot grill or BBQ. Chris Price, Training Officer, Cambrian Training The art of marinating & grilling develops skills learnt by apprentices when working towards an Apprenticeship Level 3 in Craft Cuisine and covers preparing and cooking of a range of meat and poultry. For more information about Apprenticeships contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or Tel: 01938 555893.

Chef’s Top Tips •

www.taste-blas.co.uk

If you marinade your meats/poultry the day before, you are giving them extra time to soak up those lovely herb flavours and help tenderize tougher cuts of meats.

Techniques

Summer Campfire Braising As the summer holidays are fast approaching, why not try out this fantastic recipe of Spicy Braised BBQ Beans, Sourdough toast and Hafod Cheese on your campfire at home or whilst camping to feed your family & friends a true Welsh delight. Here is a step-by-step guide to preparing and cooking this wonderful outdoor dish that serves 4:

Preparing and Cooking your BBQ Beans Dish: 1.

To begin, place a pot over the camp fire and heat with a drizzle of olive oil

Dice the red onions, crush the garlic to a paste and place into the hot oil and cook until softened

Add in all the beans, largely chopped Chorizo and seal in the hot oil until slightly coloured

Next, add in the dry spices and cook for 1 minute to release the flavours

Add in the red wine vinegar, brown sugar and reduce

Once the vinegar has reduced, next roughly chop and add in the Piquillo peppers

Pour over the chopped tomatoes and stock to cover just over the beans

Equipment

Braise slowly over a low heat for 45 to 50 minutes until the pot has reduced and matured

• • • • • • •

Season to taste then remove from the heat

Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 red onions Stock (whichever flavour you prefer) 4 Garlic cloves 100g brown sugar 50ml red wine vinegar Chorizo Sausage Log 1 Tin Butter Bean 1 Tin Kidney Bean 1 Tin Haricot beans 2 Tins chopped tomatoes 1 Tin Piquillo peppers 2 tbsp. Smoked Paprika 2 tbsp. BBQ Dry Rub 200g Hafod Cheese Sourdough Olive Oil

Camp Fire/Camping stove Medium sized saucepan Wooden Spoon Knife Chopping Board Tongs/Long Skewers Grater

10. Once the beans are ready cut the sourdough into thick slices and toast over the open fire using tongs or skewers 11. Serve with the BBQ beans on top of the sourdough and shave or grate Welsh Hafod cheese over the top and allow to slightly melt for the best finish. Braising is a way of cooking meat, fish, seafood or vegetables by first searing the item in hot fat, and then simmering it, covered, in liquid to finish. Braising differs from stewing in that the item to be cooked is usually in large pieces, as opposed to smaller pieces for stews. In addition, the amount of liquid used in braising is less than for stewing, normally barely covering half of the item to be braised. William Richards, Training Officer, Cambrian Training Mastering the art of Braising is a key technique for apprentices to have in their reportoire as they can utilise cheap local products, cuts of meat and elevate the flavour when handled and cooked correctly. Apprentices develop these whilst working towards a Foundation Apprenticeship in Professional Cookery and Craft Cuisine Level 2. For more information about Apprenticeships contact Cambrian Training Company at cambriantraining.com or Tel: 01938 555893.

Chef’s Top Tips •

Substitute the Chorizo for Cep Mushrooms and remove the Hafod Cheese to cater for your Vegetarian and Vegan guests

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Real Ale. True Quality... Raglan’s award winning brewery - We offer a wide range of superb beers made on site, including pale ales, bitters, stout and wheat beer. Available in bottle, 5 litre party pin, 36 pint pin and 72 pint firkin for both trade and public to collect from the brewery, free local delivery or couriered anywhere in the country.

Monday-Friday 10am-5pm • Saturday 10am-3pm AP NT P

Unit 6, Little Castle Business Park, Raglan, NP15 2BX

Take the Clytha exit at the Raglan roundabout on the A40, then take the next right signposted Llantilio/Crossenny

enquiries@untappedbrew.com • www.untappedbrew.com

Telephone: 01291 690074 W I N G CS H IR E

AN,

MONMOUTH

A family company since 1912, the knowledge and expert skills of all our staff, past & present, keep the tradition of Welsh weaving alive at Melin Tregwynt. Today our blankets, throws and cushions can be found worldwide; from hip hotels to design led stores, in galleries and museums, on film and TV. a working woollen mill since 1912

a working woollen mill since 1912

We always try to make things that are useful and beautiful to look at and just right for you. We offer customised short runs and exclusive designs for hotels, designers and design led stores.

Melin Tregwynt, Castlemorris, Haverfordwest, Pembs, SA62 5UX T +44 (0)1348 891 225 E info@melintregwynt.co.uk W melintregwynt.co.uk

Woven in Wales. melintregwynt.co.uk

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Very, very tasty! Adam Rees sips and samples the newest food and drink in town

1. Penrhos gins

2. Merlin Cheeses

Border gins attain borderline perfection Another artisan distillery doing great things to stand out in the gin market. Out of a small copper distillery on a family farm on the Marches, the award-winning Penrhos original and rhubarb gins both exude enough quality to justify their premium status while being smooth and sophisticated enough for newcomers to enjoy. The rhubarb variety isn’t as sweet as its competitors, opting instead for a clever infusion of home grown berries, fruit and a peppery aroma. Extremely easy on the pallet, it’s a pleasant complement to a summer fruit dessert. The core flavours of the original combine perfectly for one of the best gins we’ve ever tasted, a classic taste whether neat or with a top-shelf mixer. Hints of rose petal and a full wash of blueberry makes it a perfect all-rounder yet with plenty of its own character.

Fictional tales meet real flavours Originally founded using goats milk in Pontrhydygroes, Ceredigion, Gill Bateman’s familyrun producers have since expanded to both cow and buffalo milk products, with this Arthurian range made from the former. With 13 varieties based on characters from Britain’s most famous legends, each adorned with a different heraldic sigil already gets our food senses buzzing before we carve into the waxy wheel. However, the nutty, succulent cheddar is the real winner, oozing creamy taste across the board. Some of the most notable are the villainous Sir Mordred living up to its moniker with punchy mustard seed and Sir Galahad’s moreish combination of rosemary and sun-dried tomato. Sir Caradoc meanwhile is the Holy Grail, with its explosion of mint adding a revelatory addition to any cheese board or favourite snack.

Buy it at: penrhosspirits.co.uk Price: £34-£38.95

Buy it at: merlincheeses.wordpress.com/shop Price: £4 per cheese

3. From Our Farm Biltong

4. Wye Valley Mead

Beef connoisseurs turn curers with outstanding results After breeding cattle on a self-sufficient Pembrokeshire farm for four generations, Rachel and Michael George decided to have a go at making biltong just two years ago. After experimenting with a homemade dryer From Our Farm is now turning out exceptional, awardwinning products. Coming in Chilli and Original flavours, neither relies on the additional seasoning, with the original’s mix in particular barely discernible. Instead the flavour of the beef is left alone to be the headline act. Chunkier and juicier than much of the competition, they’re more akin to Sunday roast leftovers, and will have you scouring the bottom of the pouch for remaining morsels. With such impeccable results after just two dozen months, who knows what great things could be achieved in the future.

Intriguing melding of the traditional and modern tastes An alternative to craft lager or cider this summer, this Meadery from the Wye Valley is putting a refreshing twist on an ancient recipe. Using their own honey and crops for three distinct flavours of mead that up the levels of sweetness with each. The Pale colour and lightly sparkling Honey and Hops is more like a wine than a beer, with the hops giving a floral scent as well as grape, grapefruit and pear that linger. The Honey and Elderflower has a distinct aroma, with more sweetness and honey coming to the fore along with ripe mango. The golden Honey and Rhubarb meanwhile has a candy sensation and hint of citrus that’s ideal for a post-dinner summer chill. We really recommend pairing them with goat’s cheese, Manchego and nuts for a real complementary delicacy.

Buy it from: fromourfarm.co.uk Price: £5.50 for 2x 40g pouches

Buy it from: wyevalleymeadery.co.uk Price: 3 bottles for £10

www.taste-blas.co.uk

5. Case For Cooking Spice Pots

6. Wrexham Lager

Four curry favourites for home-cooked perfection Pembrokeshire couple Pete and Cathy Heritage don’t pretend to be chefs, but have turned their passion for delicious home cooking into this handy collection of spices to encourage others to follow their lead. Each pot is enough for 10 servings and comes with instructions for making the most out of the herbs and spices, and once you start using them you’ll see they’re actually excellent value to boot. Naturally the Red and Green Thai spices pack a decent poke, with the former’s cayenne kick coming to the fore and the latter combining with coconut milk for a soulful curry. The Korma has a lot more flavour than you get from your average takeaway or supermarket fare, but it’s the Jalfrezi that tickled our tongues the most with its tangy flavour and lingering heat.

Delicious Welsh beer bursting with national pride With fire-breathing dragons, lines from Cwm Rhondda and a tag as ‘The Pride of the Celts’, Wrexham Lager isn’t subtle in reminding you where its inspiration comes from. Though made in a new micro-brewery in the town centre, the brand was started by 19th-century German immigrants and the modern-day equivalent continues to use the same ingredients and recipe as past generations. The results are the traditional 4 % WXM Lager – that was supposedly sold on board Titanic – and the punchy 5% Export. The former’s crisp, fresh taste is certainly reminiscent of the German origins the original was founded on, and is deserving of its success with gallons of the stuff being sold to date. The latter follows suit, proving a lot easier and refreshing on the palette than much of its competition, opting for smoothness over pungent flavours, with both doing their homeland proud.

Buy it from: discoverdelicious.wales Price: £12.50 for four pots

7. Cariad Bakery

Buy it from: chesterbeerandwine.co.uk Price: £1.90 per 330ml bottle

Gluten-free sweet treats with flavour at their heart I doubt there’s a more fitting name for Sara Sharpe’s sweet-toothed bakery with its delectable gluten-free treats that are great for the heart and soul. Cariad Bakery is the result of Sara’s personal quest, thanks to gluten and dairy intolerance, for treats that are healthy but taste great. Key are coconut sugar; ewe’s milk (from Anglesey), which contains a form of lactose which humans can digest easily; and the wondersupplement, spirulina. But all this would count for little if they didn’t taste great. And they certainly do. ‘Cariads’, moreish little balls of goodness in strawberry, raspberry and blueberry that are great to graze on; ewe’s milk chocolate and Anglesey chilli fudge that’s as good as any fudge I’ve tasted before; and the coup de grace, a divinely rich Brownie Boule with home-made Salted Caramel centre and Halen Mon salt – a sweet, subtly salty, smooth as silk interior encased in thick dark chocolate. Marvellous. Buy it from: www.cariadbakery.cymru Price: Six Brownie Boules for £22.50

9. Popty Bakery

8. Radnor Preserves Pink Gin Marmalade

Welsh favourites in award-winning hands Traditional Welsh loafs and cakes made in the shadow of Snowdonia’s peaks for over a century is a quintessentially evocative image of our nation’s cuisine. Popty Bakery has a range of top treats, with the shortcake biscuits a particularly buttery, crumbly version of the British snack. The Welshcakes meanwhile have a delightful texture and aren’t stingy on the fruit, while the similar Jam Splits (plain Welshcakes with jam in the middle) have only a slither of fruity spread, letting the flavourful, chalky cake do the heavy lifting. But it’s the bara brith fruit cake, winner of the Bakery Product of the Year prize at the inaugural Co-op Welsh Supplier Awards last year that stands out. Malty, moist and favouring fruit over spice, it’s more than worthy of its accolade.

When breakfast is the most indulgent meal of the day Boasting a collection of luxurious preserves, the Caersws producers have recently been turning heads and acquiring accolades. To celebrate an awardstrewn 2018 they’ve released a nine-jar box of their most luxurious flavours, and released the decadent Pink Gin variety. Even as you pop the lid the aroma is immediately arresting, while the thick chunks of fruit spread on toast, muffin or whatever takes your fancy make for a sinful breakfast treat. Naturally the pink grapefruit gives an instant sharp kick, while the Brecon Botanicals Gin isn’t overt, balanced out by a splash of Angostura Bitters. A review saying Radnor Preserves’ marmalade was good enough for James Bond must have gone to their heads during its creation, and it’s all the better for it.

Buy it from: popty.co.uk Price: Bara brith £3.12 per loaf

Buy it from: radnorpreserves.com Price: £5.49 for 240g jar

www.taste-blas.co.uk

10. Celteg Elderflower Wine Vinegar 11. Blaenavon Cheddar Company A light fruity base for those summer salad dressings With awards aplenty over their brief history, these Ceredigion wine specialists are among our favourite recommendations for those looking for individualistic Welsh products. We’ve tried a few of Celteg’s alcoholic offerings before, including the potent Shipp’s Tipple liqueur and more recently their aromatic Elderflower Wine. The company also has a range of preserves and vinegars, including the Elderflower Wine’s brethren, suited to a fresh salad as you’re enjoying a cool glass of its alcoholic companion. A light alternative to other vinegars or oils used as dressings with its crisp flavour and sweet finish. There’s still plenty of taste from the locally picked fruits packed into each drizzle, making it a versatile addition to other foods, desserts, even cocktails or as a dip for some rustic bread. Buy it from: celticwines.co.uk Price: £3.95 per 250ml

12. Coco Pzazz Chocolate buttons Sweet treats live up to their glamorous moniker We’re spoilt for choice in this land when it comes to top confectionary, with Wickedly Welsh and Nomnom as innovative as they are impressive. Coco Pzazz are another balancing Wonka-esque invention with awardwinning results out of their Powys factory. If you’re looking for simply excellent chocolate, you can pick up the Milk (Valley Blend) and dark (Mountain Blend) bars which you can attempt but probably fail to savour one square at a time, while the divine Coast Blend Sea Salt Caramel Chocolate is awash with favour. However it’s on their range of giant buttons where the shackles have been thrown off, for some wild combinations, from Bucks Fizz to Bara Brith. The salty SpicedOrange takes the classic pairing and assaults it with even more flavour, while the Great Taste-winning Mochaccino’s is as smooth as a barista espresso hit.

Going underground the key to overground conquest A mainstay of food fairs in Wales and nearby, anyone who’s tasted a Blaenavon cheese can certainly testify to its renown. The Pwll Mawr mature cheddar forms the cornerstone of the company’s roster, left 300ft underground in Big Pit coal mine to develop its impeccable, rich flavour. For our money it’s one of the best cheddars in Britain, and though you could pair with all manner of chutneys or drinks, we’re more than happy eating half a truckle of it on its own at any time. Teaming up with other prominent Welsh names, the none-more Welsh Pwll Du has the bite of leeks, mustard and Brains beer at its heart, while another of our favourites is the exceptional oak-smoked Pwll Mawr – slightly dearer but more than worth it. Buy it from: chunkofcheese.co.uk Price: £5 per 200g truckle

14. Morgan’s Brew Tea Since its inception in Welshpool in 2006 when they were tasked to make a respectable cup of home brew for their customers, Morgan’s has gone on to offer a celebrated 45 different varieties of tea. While the aforementioned Morgan’s Brew attains the classic taste with its East African leaves, we’re keen on mintier and sweeter options. The Spearmint is one of the most brisk cups we’ve tasted in a while, with its penetrating blast of fresh taste and smooth finish. The Blackcurrant and Cherry Rhubarb flavours meanwhile pack a hell of a lot of sweetness and tart qualities even after a short brew, with the latter’s mixture of citrus and apple flavours offering a tantalising array of tastes to pick up on. Buy it from: morgansbrewtea.co.uk Price: From £5 per 100g bag

Buy it from: cocopzazz.co.uk Price: £3.35 per 96g bags

13. Pembrokeshire Sea Salt Co

15. Two Dogs Coffee

Harvesting their product from a quiet cove on the Dinas Island Peninsula, this company’s salt has been commended by award-winning chefs for its quality and purity. While a basic jar of sea salt should be an indispensable item in every kitchen, there are some quirky takes to give your seasoning an extra kick or two. The Sea Salt with Chilli and with Sichuan Pepper add increasing levels of poke, while those looking for a really decadent extra need look no further than the Saffron and Black Truffle varieties. While the vibrant green of the potent, fragrant Wild Garlic brand is an attractive proposition, it’s got nothing on the charcoalblack Squid Ink sat, which adds a really powerful bite to any dish when regular salt just won’t cut it.

From their roasting house in Treorchy that’s also home to their terriers (hence the name), John and Sian Bowen offer a selection of beans and blends from across the coffee-growing world. For the more casual drinker, the Brazil Santos RFA is a sweet medium roast, with both chocolatey and nutty notes that’s nourishing at any time of the day. Those looking for a bit more of a bite should have a sniff at the Uganda Cherry Robusta that’s both strong and smooth with stiff tones of syrupy sweetness and a creamy finish. Their two house blends, unsurprisingly, are named after the loyal pups Jack and Gelert, with the lighter blend of the former having plenty of vitality while the latter offering a softer, caress of flavours and caffeine. Another excellent Welsh coffee company born out of passion and graft.

Buy it from: pembrokeshireseasalt.co.uk Price: From £3.75 per 100g

Buy it from: twodogscoffeecompany.com Price: From £5.50 per 250g bag

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Blaenafon Cheddar company is a family business that produces some of Wales’ most awarded handmade cheddar cheeses. Our unique, signature cheese is a Mature Cheddar aged 300ft below ground in Big Pit mining museum for exceptional flavour. By using a selection of ingredients within our flavoured cheeses, from all over Wales we can lead you on a taste experience from south Wales to Cardiff, Swansea, mid Wales, up to the North and a quick delicious hop over to Anglesey. Ales, beer, cider, mustards & chillies, Whisky & Brandy are mixed into our cheeses to give a real tongue tingling experience. Our products are available online from www.chunkofcheese.co.uk. We give talks & cheese presentations to various groups & associations. Coach parties welcomed for a Taste of Wales Event via pre booking only £20pp.

Call in and see us for a Welsh Cheesy Welcome! The Blaenafon Cheddar Company, 79 -80 Broad Street, Blaenavon NP49NF Tel 01495 793123/ 07886388573. Open Mon to Friday 9-5pm (Sat from Nov) Seasonal Sat 10-2pm

www.taste-blas.co.uk

To advertise in the only magazine devoted to food and drink in Wales call Paul on 029 2019 0224. The guaranteed way to reach lovers of food and drink in Wales 48

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Best of the Fests Meryl Cubley takes a tour of the best food festivals in Wales this Summer The Movable Feast – North Wales – throughout the Summer This brand-new roving pop-up food market showcases local food and drink producers throughout North Wales. In July, it stops in Colwyn Bay, Porthmadog and Benllech Beach in Benllech, while in August it visits Bodnant Food Centre in Conwy and Cemaes Bay in Anglesey before reaching Gwydir Park in Llanrwst in September. www.themovablefeast.org/en

Royal Welsh Show – Builth Wells, 22–25 July Celebrating their 100th show, the RWS is a showcase of Welsh (and British) agriculture. There’s a 12-hour programme each day of exciting attractions and displays plus a fantastic array of activities including livestock competitions, forestry, crafts, countryside sports, and, of course, its famed food hall. Bursting with over 70 Welsh food and drink exhibitors, this year’s event is set to be one not to miss. All exhibitors either produce, process or manufacture in Wales; and those who utilise Welsh agricultural products are given priority. Starter businesses will also be given a shot at exhibiting – under the guidance and mentoring of Cywain, a Menter a Busnes project aimed to help develop new products or markets for primary agricultural produce or fisheries. So, you can really be one of the first to taste some mouth-watering morsels – before everyone knows who the newbies are!

The Big Cheese – Caerphilly, 26–28 July This weekend-long family-fun festival always makes for an enjoyable day out; but now revamped for 2019, this year’s event sees three huge food halls to devour, exciting street food vendors, live cookery demos and a live lounge and bar area. www.bigcheesecaerphilly.co.uk

Bite – Insole Court, Cardiff, 27 July Bite Cardiff ended up being the unexpected highlight of the Cardiff food festival calendar in 2018, with more than 10,000 people flocking to the gardens of Insole Court mansion in Llandaff. Thirty dishes were on offer from South Wales’ top chefs and restauranteurs – with every dish priced at the all-inclusive price of £3. Bite will have forty exhibitors for 2019; as well as two further bars. www.insolecourt.org/events/bite-food-festival-atinsole-court

Lampeter Food Festival – Lampeter, 27 July Expect top quality local honey, liqueurs, meats and cheese, freshly baked bread and much more! There’s lots of hot food to enjoy, including burgers and curry, with plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Delicious cider from local breweries, gin cocktails and Pimms! www.facebook.com/Lampeterfoodfestival

Sea2Shore Festival – Aberystwyth, 11 August

The food hall is supported by Welsh Government who operate the Food and Drink Wales Business Lounge, an extensive showcase of Welsh products aimed at the trade. This enables the Welsh Government to attract buyers from across the UK, and beyond, to attend the event, preview the products and meet the producers; providing a unique opportunity for Welsh producers to take full advantage of their presence at the show to enhance their business prospects.

Visitors can find excellent local products including cheese, chocolate, wine, liquors, brownies and baked goods as well as local fish, vegetables and meat. Try delicious street food from local food traders, including paella, hog roast, gourmet burgers, pizza and much more – and wash it all down with some tasty local beverages.

With over a thousand trade-stands throughout the showground, as well as those in the food hall, even the most discerning shopper and food enthusiast will be spoilt for choice during the show – they’ve even provided ‘shopping crèches’ to keep your precious purchases safe until home time.

Cardigan River & Food Festival – Cardigan, 17 August

www.rwas.wales

Royal Welsh Show

The Big Cheese, Caerphilly

www.cardigan-bay.com/whats-on/events/ aberystwyth-food-festival/

There’s more to Cardigan’s food scene than seafood. Sample the best in locally sourced food from independent Welsh producers while watching a boatload of water-based activities on the River Teifi. www.cardigan-bay.com/cardigan-food-festival.php

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Newtown Food Festival, 7–8 September You’ll discover everything from the healthy and nutritious to the downright naughty here! Expect chef demonstrations, a Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, riverside exploration walks and special festival beers and wines. www.newtownfoodfestival.co.uk

Wrexham Food and Drink Festival, 7–8 September Held on Llwyn Isaf, this two-day Wrexham Food and Drink Festival focuses on the best products in and around the area; from tender lamb and fresh trout to juicy blueberries and tipples. Showcasing the produce of over 70 exhibitors, as well as running live demos and cookery classes. www.wrexhamfoodfestival.wales

St. Fagans Food Festival – St. Fagans, 7– 8 September

St. Fagans Food Festival

Abergavenny Food Festival

St Fagan’s food festival is loved by locals for its display of the very best produce from some of the finest Welsh foodie companies around. Offering something for everyone – there’s dishes from Little Grandma’s Kitchen and the Welsh Cheese Company – to international fare from The Spanish Buffet, Puckin’ Poutine and Mr Croquewich. This year’s event also includes a cava van and gin and fizz bar – so make sure you line those stomachs first with all that’s on offer!

Among those already confirmed for this year are Asma Khan, Xanthe Clay, Sandor Katz, Bee Wilson, Rosie Birkett, Elly Curshen, Emiko Davies, Genevieve Taylor, Fozia Ismail, Pete Brown, Jekka McVicar and chefs Anissa Helou, Sam and Shauna from Hangfire BBQ, Copenhagen’s Trine Hahnemann, Gareth Ward, Josh Eggleton, Tom Hunt, Cyrus Todiwala and Tommy Heaney. www.abergavennyfoodfestival.com

Narbeth Food Festival, 28–29 September

www.facebook.com/pages/St-Fagans-Food-Festival

Conwy Honey & Seed Fair, 13 September

www.narberthfoodfestival.com

The Conwy Honey Fair is said to be one of Britain’s oldest food festivals, dating back over 700 years. Expect to see honey-related products, beekeeping stalls, preserves, sweet treats and other bee-related produce and crafts.

Abersoch Taste Weekend – Abersoch, 28–30 September

Mold Food & Drink Festival, 21–22 September Now in its 14th year, this festival showcases a great variety of produce from the town and surrounding areas. There’s plenty to keep everyone occupied, with interactive areas, a cookery school, a food science lab and chef demonstrations. Celebrity chefs this year include Celebrity MasterChef winner Lisa Faulkner and Anglesey’s Stephen Stevens of Michelin-starred Sosban & The Old Butchers. moldfoodfestival.co.uk

Abergavenny Food Festival – Abergavenny, 21–22 September

Award-winning food writer and author of more than ten books Diana Henry will be in attendance, joining writer Angela Clutton for a vinegar masterclass – and Saturday Kitchen wine expert Olly Smith will impart all he knows about fizz cocktails – while chef Zoe Adjonyoh cooks over fire. Returning food festival favourite José Pizarro, fresh from the launch of his new book ‘Andalusia’ will be appearing on the Market Hall stage; and Jaega Wise joins Pete Brown to discover Beers and Ciders of Wales; with fine spirits and cocktail aficionados Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley bringing a ‘Weekend Cocktails’ class and an exploration of the world of gin to the 2019 festival programme of events.

Taking place over two days and offering great market stalls, live music, chef demonstrations, a licensed bar and activities for little ones.

www.conwybeekeepers.org.uk

Neath Food Festival

– Abergavenny Food Festival is the place to be – and to be seen! Influential figures on the British cooking scene Fergus Henderson and St. JOHN co-founder Trevor Gulliver, top a cast of the very best stars of modern Welsh, British and international cuisine.

This summer sees the 21st edition of the ever-popular festival host an absolute smorgasbord of chefs, farmers and food writers from across the UK and beyond, for demos, discussions and the exploration of all things delicious! For serious foodies – and those who simply love food

www.taste-blas.co.uk

The Abersoch Taste Weekend is a food and drink tasting event from local vendors, with plenty of delicious dishes available. There’ll also be craft beers, wines, spirits, coffees and tea. The bars and pubs in the village will also be offering a wide range of guest beers.

Neath Food Festival, 4–6 October 2019 Now in its 11th year, Neath Food and Drink Festival has now established itself as one of the premiere events in Wales’ events calendar. Held over three days, the festival welcomes around 70 exhibitors each year from all over Wales and the South West. Neath Food and Drink Festival is a great opportunity for anyone who enjoys quality produce to meet artisan food producers face to face. Speaking to our exhibitors, the first thing that you’ll notice is their passion and knowledge, whether it is goats milk ice cream, samosas or sea food, long horn beef, handmade chocolates or apple juice, everything has been made by people who care passionately about the quality and process of the products they make. Come along and sample the best food & drink Wales has to offer along with great live music and street entertainment all in the heart of Neath. www.npt.gov.uk/1680

If you give a flying fish about your flavours don’t just add salt. Add Pembrokeshire Sea Salt.

Our home near the beautiful Black Mountains!

Hand harvested from the crystal clear waters at Cwm-yr.Eglwys, our award winning, natural sea salt is pure and sustainable, and has an exquisite crystalline structure.

Our delicous bottled and draught ciders are made using local apples which, unlike many cider makers, we press ourselves. You’ll find them in discerning shops, bars and restaurants across the region – and in our own shop and bar at Pen-Y-Lan Farm.

www.TyGwynCider.co.uk

Capturing the unique essence of the Pembrokeshire coast, and using the finest quality ingredients, we have hand crafted an exciting palette of flavours to satisfy every culinary fancy.

www.pembrokeshireseasalt.co.uk tel: 01348 811136 e-mail: info@pembrokeshireseasalt.co.uk

cider

We produce a festival of exciting craft-ciders!

We look forward to welcoming you – and sharing a taste of Ty Gwyn!

Welcome to Coco Pzazz, artisan chocolate makers based in the Powys village of Caersws. Our busy little team scours the globe for inspiration: great chocolate, exciting tastes and lo lovely artwork. We then add in a little Welsh influence. We blend sustainably grown, high quality chocolate with natural flavours - creating hand finished, exquisitely flavoured bars and buttons They call us “Intrepid Chocolateers” Look out for Coco Pzazz in gift shops, delis, farm shops and visitor accommodation across Wales and beyond. www.cocopzazz.co.uk info@cocopzazz.co.uk 01686 688012

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews

Gwesty Cymru, Aberystwyth

A trip to Aberystwyth is hard to beat, and a stay at Gwesty Cymru is always a treat. Named after Geraint Jarman’s legendary Welsh rock anthem, it was the brainchild of Huw and Beth Roberts. The former seafront B&B was Aber’s first ‘boutique hotel’, but has created waves since 2007 for its highly acclaimed restaurant as well. It claims a central spot by the prom along with a unique seaside terrace, and a killer sunset view of Cardigan Bay. Locals always know that summer has finally arrived by the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses outside. After checking in to my lovely light-filled room, up the striking spiral staircase, I enjoyed a quick run along the promenade, in anticipation of a hearty Ceredigion supper. The hotel-restaurant’s minimalist decor mixes Blaenau Ffestiniog slate with accents from Doctor Who. This is mirrored by a menu filled with endless modern twists on classic Welsh ingredients. It’s a marriage of ideas between inventive Chef Will Ainsworth and inspired co-owner Beth. I kicked off the evening with a first for me – a glass of ‘medd’ from Penrhyncoch’s Shire Meadery. Fearing a cloying honey-filled concoction, I was delighted to find it reminiscent of a light and floral sparkling wine. With asparagus in season, I plumped for the risotto as a starter, that was a creamy dream of a dish. Balanced with the richness of a Birchgrove egg, it created a storm of fresh flavours in my head. The house white wine – a citrussy Chilean Sauvignon Blanc – cut through this glorious savoury pudding like a tidal wave. The main course of roast lamb rump from Tywyn, up the Ceredigion coast, was yet another masterstroke. Presented with a port, thyme and shallot sauce, it was a reminder of Welsh home-cooking at its best. As I admired the purple rays of a ‘Faberystwyth’ sunset I savoured the highlight of the meal; no other word will do to describe the Bara Brith Bread and Butter Pudding, except for ‘bendigedig!’. Drizzled with marmalade custard and Penderyn whisky sauce, it made me envy all who live all year in Aberystwyth. I was lulled to sleep by the sound of waves and woke up ready to face one final epic feast. A perennial on the menu is the breakfast Scotch Egg, filled with sausage, bacon, mushrooms and Birchgrove egg, on a bed of rosti potatoes with Bloody Mary sauce. Miraculously light and moreish, it is another Gwesty Cymru invention – so popular indeed, that you’ll find it on the lunch menu, and for dinner, as a hearty starter! A longheld tradition in Aberystwyth, is to ‘kick the bar’ in the shadow of Constitution Hill. By raising the bar to the rafters however, Gwesty Cymru has long since won the hearts of the Welsh. Lowri Haf Cooke Gwesty Cymru, 19 Marine Terrace, Aberystwyth SY23 2AZ; tel: 01970 612252

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Palé Hall,

Restaurant Reviews

Llandderfel

I’d been curious to discover the secret of Palé Hall since the news that was announced last autumn. The luxury country house hotel in Llandderfel, on the cusp of Denbighshire, claimed the only AA 5 Red Star award outside London. Added to that, Chef Gareth Stevenson’s menu (formerly of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze) was a brand new Welsh addition to the Good Food Guide. As it’s not far from Bala, where some of my family reside, I booked a Sunday evening supper and overnight stay. I did not expect to be utterly blown away by such a charming get-away. I imagine a stay at Palé Hall would be glorious all year, but my visit was blessed with blue summer skies. At the manor’s grand entrance wild rabbits abound, with 50 acres of grounds to cover along the river Dyfrdwy (Dee). It was built by Henry Robertson, a 19th century industrialist and railway engineer, and the entire hotel is powered by water from a nearby stream. Following the stunning drive over, I was drawn to the garden for a walk through the bluebell wood, before enjoying a glass of Palé fizz. With an hour until supper, I enjoyed the comforts of my Carmarthen bedroom – with its lovely vista through the trees towards Llandderfel. An early supper with my Anti Enid was a treat for us both, as we experienced the Chef ’s six course seasonal tasting menu. Hosted in the grand Henry Robertson dining room, it was an evening of revelations. An added bonus was the fact that pastry chefs Adam Cleal and Sam Widnall were riding high on Channel 4’s Bake Off:The Professionals. I rarely begin at the end, but the wild strawberry mousse was the finest – and prettiest - dessert of its kind. It followed a feast of seasonal flavours, that began with braised pork cheek, brightened with rhubarb and pistachio, then a comforting dish of grilled mackerel and Jersey Royals. Without a doubt, the Welsh black beef, and lamb loin were the stand-out dishes – and no wonder, in this agricultural heartland of Wales. But the Denbighshire wood pigeon caught me by complete surprise; full of flavour and balanced with blueberry and savoy cabbage. Nearing the end, the ‘Rhubarb and Custard’ was a playful tribute to the Welsh landscape outside, with the granola ‘topsoil’ crowned with a grassy sorrel granita. Outstanding. Following a fabulous night’s sleep, and a lovely early walk, I headed with purpose to the dining room. The bar keeps being raised for the best breakfast in Wales, and we have a new winner in the case of Palé Hall. The ‘crempog’ was divine – a stack of Welsh buttermilk pancakes drizzled with yoghurt and a sharp berry compote. If I could have stayed there for a week, I would have done so in a heart-beat, but how enchanting to have lived the dream for one night! Lowri Haf Cooke Palé Hall, Palé Estate, Llandderfel, Bala LL23 7PS; tel: 01678 530285

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews

Plas Dinas,

Bontnewydd It’s 50 years this July since the investiture of the Prince of Wales at Castell Caernarfon, that split Welsh society in two. Recently, the entire event was reconstructed for The Crown – the smash-hit Netflix series, starring this year’s Oscar-winner Olivia Colman. Filmed in Caernarfon, the main cast stayed in splendour at Plas Dinas Country House. Based on the outskirts of

the village of Bontnewydd, it’s located far from the madding crowd. But this five star hotel is a blue-blood affair, with even stronger links to the royals than The Crown. Originally dating from the 17th Century, Plas Dinas came into the posession of Robert Jones of Ynyscynhaearn during the 19th Century, who oversaw extensive Victorian additions to the house. It came to prominence following his grandson Antony Armstrong-Jones’ marriage to Princess Margaret in 1961. As Constable of the Castle, he arranged the whole investiture shebang – but it was his half-brother Peregrine who inherited Plas Dinas. For those who adore the Royals, there’s plenty at Plas Dinas to enjoy, as the household is filled to the brim with family mementos. But as an ardent Welsh nationalist, I found plenty of other delights, that ensured a memorable stay in May. One highlight was the view, from the wildflower path, over Y Foryd towards Ynys Llanddwyn on Anglesey. I was gobsmacked to see this iconic Welsh lovers’ pilgramage spot – make a note to stay around Saint Dwynwen’s Day in January! Another, without a doubt, was Daniel ap Geraint’s contemporary (and bilingual) Welsh menu at The Gunroom. Formerly of Caernarfon hit-restaurant Blas, this Prestatyn born chef is a prince among men, whose understanding of flavours keeps guests, and locals, expressing a joyful ‘Amen’! The treacle bread to begin was like manna from heaven – or rather, the closest possible flavour, bara brith. The scorched mackerel starter was tempered by a cucumber sorbet, followed by a cool peach and lemon balm palate cleanser. A good job too as the Caernarfon beef and dripping chips had only one job to do; they came, they saw, they conquered. Whilst the ravishing treacle-cured sirloin offered a comradely nod to the ‘bara brith’, the dripping chips gave me visions, meant to be shared with the chef, telling him to open a ‘pop-up’ on the A487 forthwith. Last, but not least, a perfectly executed Gypsy Tart which sent me to bed on a cloud of caramel and brown-sugar mousse. My bedroom, Snowdon, was comfort itself; what more could be said about a suite fit for a prince? For me, however, my stay was perfected by the respect shown – in all aspects – to the Welsh language. Over a fabulous full Welsh breakfast I was tickled pink to read a list for guests of useful Welsh phrases. Upon leaving Plas Dinas I recalled my old high school motto; ‘Coron Gwlad ei Mamiaith’. Loosely translated, it really says it all: ‘The Crown is the country’s mother tongue.’ Lowri Haf Cooke Plas Dinas, Bontnewydd, Caernarfon LL54 7YF; tel: 01286 830214 www.plasdinas.co.uk

www.taste-blas.co.uk

The Walnut Tree Inn, Llanddewi Ysgyryd Bwytai Cymru is a new Welsh-language book by Lowri Haf Cooke exploring fifty special eateries in Wales. ‘The Walnut Tree’ in Llanddewi Ysgyryd, on the outskirts of Abergavenny, has been a much-loved Welsh foodie attraction for years. Antrim-born Chef Shaun Hill’s style of cooking is personal, precise, and fuss-free. His Michelin star menu is inspired by his far-flung travels, and includes many ‘greatest hits’ from his career in the kitchen which spans over fifty years. The Kerala fish curry is a comforting classic, as is the rabbit with mustard crème fraîche, and the set lunch menu - a national treasure - is an absolute steal. Un o’r bwytai brafiaf yng Nghymru, heb os, yw’r Wanut Tree, sy’n hawlio seren Michelin. Yn hafan glyd, gartrefol, yng nghysgod yr Ysgyryd Fawr, fe’i lleolir ar ffordd gefn ychydig i’r Dwyrain o’r Fenni. Mae ymweliad yn brofiad arbennig bob tro, a hanes y bwyty yn chwedlonol erbyn hyn. Bu iddo enw da erioed, dan arweiniad Franco ac Ann Taruschio, wrth uno cynnyrch Cymreig mewn glân briodas â seigiau Eidalaidd. Wedi deugain mlynedd yno, roedd hi’n amser ymddeol; aeth pethau o chwith braidd i’r bwyty wedi hynny... I gychwyn, cafwyd llwyddiant dan arweiniad Stephen Terry, ond bu tensiynau rhyngdo ef a’r rheolwr, Francesco Matteoli. Wedi i’r cogydd disglair adael i sefydlu The Hardwick, daeth y dyn ei hun, Gordon Ramsay – nid i goginio ond i ffilmio’i raglen deledu, Kitchen Nightmares. Peidied neb â chredu fod pob cyhoeddusrwydd yn help; roedd y bennod ddrwgenwog yn ddigon i gau’r bwyty am flwyddyn gron. Yn wreiddiol, doedd gan Shaun Hill ddim diddordeb mewn camu i’r adwy, er i ffawd druenus y bwyty ei dristáu. Tra oedd yn llywio ceginau Michelin Gidleigh Park yn Nyfnaint a Merchant House yn Llwydlo roedd y ‘Gollen Ffengig’ wastad yn ddihangfa braf iddo, gyda’r croeso teuluol a’r bwyd syml yn plesio bob tro. Ond wedi deugain mlynedd a mwy yn y busnes ei hun, roedd yn hapus i sgrifennu a gwneud gwaith ymgynghorol, i Fortnum and Mason a British Airways ymysg cwmnïau eraill. Fe’i ganed yn Antrim yng Ngogledd Iwerddon, cyn symud gyda’i deulu yn blentyn i Camden Town. Wedi graddio yn y Clasuron, dechreuodd weithio yng ngheginau Llundain, gan bontio’r cyfnod rhwng y traddodiad Ffrengig a Nouvelle Cuisine. Dros y blynyddoedd bu’n gysylltiedig â gwreiddiau gastronomeg foleciwlar, ac yn geffyl blaen wrth ddathlu bwyd rhanbarthol Prydain. Roedd wrth ei fodd yn trawsffurfio Llwydlo yn ‘gyrchfan fwyd’ o fri – ac yn wir, bu wrth ei fodd erioed yn ardal odidog y Gororau, ar y ffin rhwng Lloegr a Chymru . Felly pan gafodd gynnig oedd yn amhosib ei wrthod – i goginio

Restaurant Reviews

yn unig heb ddim gwaith papur - cyflymodd y galon, ac estynnodd yn syth am ei ffedog a’i wisg wen. Ers ailagor y Walnut Tree yn 2008, aeth bwyty o nerth i nerth, gan ailgipio seren Michelin. Ceir cywirdeb i’r coginio, ond gwneir hynny’n ddi-ffwdan; mae’n fwyd gonest sy’n driw i’r cynhwysion. Mae’r gofod ei hun yn braf a chyfforddus, ac ni cheir arlliw o agwedd ffroenuchel. Mae’r darluniau amryliw gan y diweddar William Brown o gymorth wrth greu naws anffurfiol. Mae’r fwydlen bersonol yn hunangofiannol; ceir adlais o gyfnodau’r cogydd mewn bwytai amrywiol, ynghyd â’i brif ddiddordeb, teithio rhwngwladol. Diguro, yn wir, yw’r ddêl amser cinio – am ‘dri chwrs’ , ynghyd â thamaid i aros pryd. Ar fy ymweliad mwyaf diweddar mwynheais croquette teisen bysgod a blas perlysiau o’r Dwyrain, gan gynnwys chwa sitrws lemwnwellt. Mae un cegaid o’r bara llaeth enwyn fel toddi mewn gwely o wlân cotwm, gan gynnig addewid mawr ar gyfer y brif wledd. Un o hoff gyrchfannau’r cogydd yw Kerala yn Ne India, ac fel cwrs cyntaf ceir seigiau synhwyrus o’r rhanbarth hwnnw. Mae’r maelgi tandoori yn bendant werth ei brofi, a’r cyrri Kerala yn nefoedd ar y ddaear. Chwyrnwr coch (red gurnard) yw dewis y cogydd ar gyfer y saig – pysgodyn cadarn, sy’n gweddu i’r cwmin a’r cnau coco i’r dim.Yn brif gwrs rhaid argymell y gwningen mewn crème fraîche mwstard, neu gawl selsig o’r enw choucroute. Saig Ffrengig i dwymo’r galon ar ddiwrnod gaeafol yw hon, sy’n hyfryd iawn gyda gwin gwyn sych o Alsace. Yna i orffen mewn steil ceir rhestr faith o bwdinau, o hen ffefrynnau i gyfuniadau newydd sbon. Ceir meringue lemwn a crème caramel a hefyd Alasga Pob blas menyn cnau mwnci. Ond perffeithrwydd ar blât yw’r parfait banana a siocled, a gyfosodir â sioc drydanol sorbet leim. Ffefryn mawr y dyn ei hun yw’r ‘treiffl’ Somloi o Hwngari, y bu’n ei weini yn Soho ar hyd y saithdegau ym mwyty y Gay Hussar. Gwibiodd degawd heibio mewn chwinciad ar gyrion y Fenni i Shaun Hill yn y Walnut Tree, ac yn ystod ei gyfnod yno mae wedi cwblhau hanner can mlynedd yn y byd arlwyo. Wrth fyfyrio’n achlysurol wrth fynd â’r ci am dro, mae’n cydnabod mai damwain fu’r cyfan. Doedd e ddim wedi bwriadu gweithio fel cogydd am gyhyd – ond dyna a fu, ac mae Cymru ar ei hennill o’r herwydd. Nid ar chwarae bach y mae goroesi yn y busnes, ond ‘cadw i fynd’ yw’r gyfrinach, medd ef. Er mor agos yw Lloegr i Landdewi Ysgyryd, rhai eg enwau Cymreig sy’n llenwi’i fwyty o ddydd i ddydd - cyfenwau fel Williams, Jones, Evans, Davies a Griffiths... ac mae e’n ddiolchgar am gefnogaeth pob un. The Walnut Tree Inn, Hen Ffordd Rhosan ar Wy, Llanddewi Ysgyryd, Y Fenni NP7 8AW; tel: 01873 852797

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Flavours of Wales 6 Pack RRP. £41.99 at the special price of £19.99.

These beautiful books will grace and complement any cookbook shelf. Featuring traditional recipes and easy to follow instructions by Gilli Davies and photographed by Huw Jones. • Welsh Cakes • Baking • Welsh Lamb • Sea Salt • Seaweed • Cheese

Order online www.graffeg.com or call 01554 824000

CAFE BAR ANNA�LOKA CARDIFF’S FIRST 100% VEGAN RESTAURANT

ANNA�LOKA, 114 ALBANY ROAD, CARDIFF CF24 3RU 02920 497703 WWW.ANNA�LOKA.COM

HELLO�ANNA�LOKA.COM

ANNA_LOKA_CARDIFF � INSTAGRAM

OPENING TIMES: MONDAY TO FRIDAY 11:30AM � 10:00PM SATURDAY 10:30AM � 10:00PM SUNDAY 10:30AM TO 18:00PM

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Restaurant Reviews

The Three Horseshoes Inn, Groesffordd There are places in Wales that really blow you away; the Three Horseshoes Inn at Groesffordd is a case in point. Based just outside Brecon, it’s one of those hidden little treasures that – unless you’re hyper-local – you’ve not much hope of stumbling upon yourself. It’s mainly thanks to Taste Blas’ foraging columninst Adele Nozedar (from neighbouring village Llanfrynach), for letting me in on a Welsh food secret too good to keep. Run by Ashley Haworth for over twenty years, The Three Horseshoes Inn has been given a recent gastronomic makeover, including an eye-opening menu which celebrates Brecon Beacon ingredients foraged metres away from the pub. Indeed, the name of the village says it all - Groesffordd is Welsh for ‘crossroads’, inviting foodies to take the path less travelled. Turn away from local legend, The Felinfach Griffin, on the A470; head instead towards Abergavenny, then to a quiet residential cul-de-sac, with a perspective of Pen y Fan to break your heart. As you enter the former blacksmith’s shop, make a beeline for a ‘beach hut’ out back. With dining space for eight, you’ll want to stay until late, savouring those last summer rays with your grub. Or head instead for the dining room, where the view will surely whet your appetite. It would be easy to pick a number of classic gastro-pub dishes at the National Pub & Bar Awards’ ‘best pub in Powys for 2018’. But with 2019 National Chef of Wales award-winner Gavin Kellet amongst the team of chefs, I plumped for Brecon Beacon brilliance instead. The heady feast of flavours was generous, to say the least, so pace yourself if you want to squeeze in a sweet. The evening kicked off with a powerful amuse-bouche of nettle custard with wild garlic puree and onion ash. Decorated with forget-me-nots and jack-by-thehedge, this late spring offering launched a symphony for the senses. It quietened down to a murmur for the mackerel tartar starter, before exploding with a wasabi sorbet kick to the head. What ultimately finished me off was a powerful umami punch of a slow-cooked short rib of Welsh Beef; the mushroom, wild-garlic and marrow infused meat was so rich it fell off the bone in defeat. I’m not often knocked-out before dessert, but I’ll have to return to devour the rhubarb and gingernut cheesecake. What a rematch to savour, at the crossroads near Pen y Fan, with flavours fit for King Brychan Brycheiniog himself. The Three Horseshoes Inn, Groesffordd, Brecon LD3 7SN; tel: 01874 665672

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Summer Drinking During the best days of summer Y Sgwâr is a pool of sun, edged with the stunning granite buildings of Dolgellau. On days like these, local customers in Meirionnydd go for fresh, easy-going, light drinking. Pinot Grigio is always a popular choice, as is the more unusual Siegerrebe from Whitecastle Vineyard near Abergavenny. After closing time, we often head for the hills, taking a little picnic to Llynnau Cregennan or Llyn Cynwch (Precipice Walk). These evenings are blissfully tranquil, staring out over the Mawddach, watching the world wind down with a glass of Pecorino in hand. Many of us choose our wines by the season, and between barbecues and picnics, summer drinking tends to happen outside. Sales of sparkling wines shoot up with Prosecco leading the way, but can I suggest a different fizz? Challenge your friends with

a delicious French crémant and see what they think – any reputable wine merchant will guide you to a decent one. Better still, many of the Welsh vineyards have splendid sparkling wines - look for Ancre Hill’s Blanc de Noirs. These sparklers from Wales will generally be drier and have a bit more structure and flavour. With the climate we have in Wales, the wines produced are never going to be chunky blockbusters, but that’s their beauty over summer when you want something light. Everyone loves a Sauvignon full of elderflower, kiwi and gooseberry flavours but have you considered a Solaris from Wales? Light, fresh and fruity, this is ideal for drinking in the evening sunshine. Lots of people head for rosé when the sun’s out, which is also great. If you’ve been put off by sweet Californian Zinfandel, then do try again: there’s a whole range of pink wines that have a bit more body and structure for al fresco dining. A rosé from Provence is perfect with salads and tarts. Here in Wales, go for Montgomery, who produce a beautiful crisp, dry rosé with Pinot Noir - or try Pant Du’s Rondo rosé from Penygroes. Spain produces many fuller-bodied rosados that are the traditional answer to a cool wine to drink with food in hot weather. These are gutsier and easily stand up to barbeque food, which, thanks to marinades and strong sauces combined with chargrilling, can be problematic. We tend to go for lighter reds in the summer; a Valpolicella has a streak of acidity that will cut through some of the fatty foods we’ll be feasting upon. Alternatively, you could choose a Beaujolais. Wales does light and fruity flavours well and the Rondo grape is producing good results here, with that same acidity and herbiness, and bright brambly fruit on the nose. Back to fizz, and a little something to go with your fruity puddings. What could be better than a sweet, frothy Moscato, generally light in alcohol? Enjoy it with sweet, sun-ripened strawberries, or better still, with meringues and cream. The blend of the wine’s sugary notes with the dessert is a delight. Ah! Those summer nights! Dylan and Llinos Rowlands Dylan and Llinos’s Top 5 Summer Drinking Wines Ancre Hill, Blanc de Noirs. Scintillating ultra-dry fizz, a match for Champagne £34.50 Llaethliw Solaris – herby, light and refreshing. £17.50 Montgomery Rosé – refreshing pink grapefruit with a delicate palate of wild strawberries. £18.80 Provolo, Valpolicella– soft red wine with red cherries and plums £10.50 Cerrino, Moscato d’Asti – a sweet frothy delight. £10.80

www.taste-blas.co.uk

www.wyevalleymeadery.co.uk

NEY

HONEY & HOPS

OWER

HONEY & ELDERFL

MEAD MADE NEW

@wyevalleymeadery

Handmade Welsh Cheddar cheeses, infused with herbs, fruits and spices for exciting and new tastes. We sell to shops, restaurants, Wholesale and in food festivals around the United Kingdom.

now available via

Pontrhydygroes, Ystrad Meurig, Ceredigion, SY25 6DP www.merlincheeses.com merlincheeses@gmail.com 01974 282808

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Great Scott!

Top tips from ‘down under’ to help you select a cracking wine this summer It’s no accident that Fine Wines Direct have an exclusive distribution relationship with Allan Scott’s winery. He’s a stalwart of the New Zealand wine scene with over 45 years’ experience as a wine-maker and possesses an amazing depth of knowledge. Here he imparts a few pearls of wisdom that will help you enjoy your wine this summer. taste.blas: Can you talk us through how to choose the right type of wine for the occasion over the summer? Allan Scott: Barbecues tend to be about meat and to counter the richness usually found with meat I would generally recommend Bordeaux varietals. If it’s a “posh” BBQ it’s likely to be richer meats so Malbec, Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon are best. A “casual” BBQ is likely to have a wider range and therefore lighter meats and Pinot Noir or Merlot would be my choice. It’s hard to directly match salads to wine but I’d suggest a Sauvignon Blanc – it’s bright and refreshing with a salad. With fish I’d definitely go for a dry Riesling because the usual Citrus overtones in Riesling enhance the fish flavours in much the same way as squeezing a lemon would. Maybe Sauvignon Blanc if no dry Riesling available. To start, the obvious wine is a good Methode Traditionnelle (which is the term used to describe the traditional way to make champagne, that’s often used by non-Champagne sparklings) such as our Cecilia Sparkling Rosé or Champagne itself. When it comes to desserts, the tradition is to match with sweeter wines, but in many situations, unless there’s one in the cellar or at the back of a cupboard (which are likely to be old and therefore usually over the hill) it’s perfectly OK for desserts to be ‘matched’ with the leftovers from the previous wines served. For a lazy sunny afternoon it’s definitely Rosé and the fruitier the better. Other choices would be Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling or Pinot Gris. Gewürztraminer is a variety often overlooked as an afternoon choice but great if snacking with cheese. t.b: People often worry about matching the right grape or style to food – what’s your view? AS: I tend to avoid tagging wines to particular foods just because it’s a traditional match. Instead, I just hope that the wine I choose is enjoyable and fits the occasion and circumstances that it’s being served in. For

instance, I wouldn’t turn my nose up if I was offered a gutsy Malbec with fish and chips - even though not an obvious match, I am sure it would be appreciated just as much. t.b: How do you choose a good wine? AS: Same story, don’t get too hung up on it – it’s hard to choose a book by its cover and a lot of wines are bought by label. I tend to be less choosy when purchasing. I enjoy the contents hoping that the varietal characteristics expected in that particular wine are apparent, it has balance of possible sweetness and acidity and, if advanced in any way, that it has good integration. t.b: Why is it worth spending a bit more? Is there a sweet spot? AS: To be honest it is difficult to make a decent wine that will retail under £10 so anything below is likely to be produced in a manner which does not do the wine any favours. Because £10 is borderline quality I tend to go a little higher. A good rule of thumb to me at home when buying is to spend £20 -£30 (40-60 NZ$) - I would be confident that the wine will meet expectations. If not, I don’t hesitate to take it back (I could write an essay on this subject!) t.b: How important is a good wine supplier, especially when you’re not sure what to buy and whose wines to trust? AS: We are very fortunate to have had Fine Wines Direct UK based in Cardiff as our importer and distributor over a long time and appreciate that, like us, they are a family business and share the same values of being personally responsible for every outcome. Time certainly brings trust and our relationship has continued to go from strength to strength to the point we can almost read each-other’s minds. And it’s the same principle if you’re buying wine from a retailer. If you trust the people you’re buying from, then you can rely on their advice and rest assured that you’re getting a great wine for your money and one you’re likely to enjoy. t.b: Your top tips for the summer from your range? AS: Top tips would be either Scott Base or Allan Scott Rose or perhaps the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc which is soon to arrive as a “out on the patio” drink. For something more serious, I think Generations Chardonnay is a winner and perhaps Scott Base Pinot Noir which is even more serious. Our complete range is available at FWDUK wine shop 242 Penarth Road, Cardiff.

Allan Scott Wines are available exclusively at Fine Wines Direct, 242 Penarth Road, Cardiff CF11 8TU. Tel: 029 2078 7500. www.finewinesdirectuk.com Fine Wines Direct are a 3 time finalist at the prestigious Harpers Awards for ‘Wine Wholesaler of the Year’. They stock a huge range of wines, many exclusive, and spirits in their shop. They also have tasting rooms and a unique bonded warehouse.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Award-winning artisan chutneys, curds, preserves, jams, mustards and marmalades all handmade to traditional family recipes in St Clears. Available to the trade and public via our website, quality retail and food markets.

Award winning craft cider made on the Isle of Anglesey from locally sourced apples. Natural fermentation and unfiltered.

www.littlegrandmaskitchen.co.uk 01994 231648 sales@littlegrandmaskitchen.co.uk

www.jaspels.co.uk Tel - 07990 800 100 email - info@jaspels.co.uk

MORGANS BREW T EA COM PAN Y

We are specialist suppliers of loose leaf teas and infusions from established plantations. Our blends are sourced from a collection of old and new recipes. We sell our own brand of 46 loose leaf teas and accessories via online webshop. We love to share our passion for tea in all its myriad forms and delight in inspiring our customers to try new flavours and recipes.We want to encourage our customers to think differently about they use tea and infusions for drinking and culinary use. Our aromatic and flavour-rich blends are endlessly versatile; whether it be a satisfying cuppa, a delicate herbal pick-me-up, as an aromatic culinary ingredient or as a twist to an elegant cocktail. From black teas to caffeine-free, from herbal to fruit infusion – all our teas are blended for your enjoyment. You can drink our teas and infusions in the morning, mid-day, afternoon, evening - and as a nightcap.

T: 01938 552 303 | M: 07713 440 558 | E: hello@morgansbrewtea.co.uk | www.morgansbrewtea.co.uk Oldford House, Berriew Road, Welshpool, Powys SY21 7SS

www.taste-blas.co.uk

News

Here’s what’s happening! Meryl Cubley has the lowdown on all that’s new in Welsh food and drink Halen Môn launch Gin – Jin Môn – as Sustainability Bite! deep as the Sea itself Bite is Cardiff ’s newest summer food festival; an If you’re a fan of the internationally successful Halen Môn branded sea salt products, then brace yourselves, because they have recently launched their own gin. This ‘gin of the sea’, uses the classic botanicals found in quality gin production, enhanced of course, by a pinch of the famous Halen Môn Sea Salt, for a flavour they say, that’s as deep as the sea itself. Expect aromas of beach pine and juniper, which are sure to make this gin a crowd-pleaser. Distilled in Snowdonia using water from the mountains, all you need do for a true taste of North Wales, is lie back, sip, and sigh with pleasure... www.halenmon.com

Aber Falls Distillery feeds back to the local community At a time when the origins of food and drink are increasingly important, sustainability and traceability is a top priority for the team at Aber Falls Distillery, who not only utilise ingredients from the distillery’s beautiful countryside for their products, but have also established strong links and partnerships with other Welsh businesses. The distillery’s goal is to improve sustainability and drive the local economy and tourism trade. “With growing appreciation for the provenance of food and drink, as well as a greater sense of responsibility to the environment, we should all be looking to achieve sustainability,” commented James Wright, Managing Director at Aber Falls Whisky Distillery. Currently in talks with the National Farmers’ Union Cymru, Wright is looking to establish local sources, trial barley crops on farms in North Wales, and test grain varieties at Bangor University. “You have to take a long-term view and adopt a strategy that will help sustain the business in the future; the more grain varieties that are grown in Wales, the greater the security of supply and the more expressions of whisky we can achieve. “We want to be as Welsh as possible but to do so we need to ensure we have sustainable supplies as our market expands”.

Poetic Past-Time Leads to Mushrooming Enterprise

Good news for the amazing Anna Loka – the best vegan restaurant in Cardiff – their submission for an alcohol license has been granted! Well done team!

A shared love of Welsh poetry has led to the rapid expansion of a Gwynedd mushroom-growing company. The Mushroom Garden – Snowdonia, has already tasted success in producing fresh and dried Shiitake and Oyster mushrooms for customers including restaurants, hotels and the National Trust. However, as Cynan Jones’ family-run business has blossomed, extra growing capacity has become a necessity – now provided by Montgomeryshire beef and sheep farmers, Arwyn and Gwenllian Davies. Arwyn, who farms 320 acres near Llanerfyl, shares a love of writing poetry with Cynan.“We’ve known each other a long time, I’ve taught cynghanedd (a style of Welsh poetry), and over the years Cynan and I would see each other at eisteddfodau. Gwenllian and I were looking to diversify on the farm and looked at different options. Cynan said they were looking to expand and mushrooms fitted the bill.” Arwyn has installed two polytunnels, with a combined length of 110ft by 20ft, in which they aim to produce around 40 tonnes of mushrooms by the end of 2019. “The increase in production means we can take on new contracts as well as servicing existing customers,” says Cynan. Let’s wish these Welsh fungi well!

www.anna-loka.com

www.snowdoniamushrooms.co.uk

www.aberfallsdistillery.com

Anna Loka gets bevied

inclusive event that aims to encourage discussions around ‘real food’. The event takes place in the gardens of Insole Court mansion in Llandaff. As part of the 2019 Bite reboot, organisers have looked at ways to improve on the sustainability of the event. As a result, reusable Bite-branded, souvenir cups will go on sale for £3 each – which also happens to be the cost of each dish at Bite festival. Phill Lewis (founder of the Bite festival and Dusty Knuckle pizza restaurant), explained, “We want to limit single-use materials at the festival, so this year, we’ll be providing reusable, Bite-branded cups for use at the bars. These can also be taken away as a little souvenir to be used again and again. “We’ll put these up for pre-sale, and people can collect them at the festival. Not only will this help us to make the event more sustainable, it will also help us to cover the costs for the extra infrastructure we need to grow Bite, and make it an even better experience for 2019.”

www.taste-blas.co.uk

News

Uisce Restaurant – Tommy Heaney’s From Llŷn to Llanrwst newest Cardiff venture Speaking of eisteddfodau, how about raising a glass to Having launched his first solo venture, the eponymous Heaney’s in Cardiff last autumn, chef Tommy Heaney is delighted to announce another venture, Uisce (pronounced ish-ka). Located right next door to Heaney’s, this second site, a coffee and wine bar, will be open for breakfast and lunch in the day and wine and charcuterie at night. www.instagram.com/uiscebyheaneys

Welsh Chefs appoint National Sustainability Champion The Culinary Association of Wales has appointed a National Sustainability Champion to take forward Worldchefs initiatives across Wales to inspire sustainable food consumption. Donna Heath, a hospitality training officer at awardwinning work-based training provider Cambrian Training Company in Welshpool, is looking forward to her role which will see her work closely with schools, colleges and businesses. She will promote and implement the Worldchefs Feed the Planet programmes, which include the Food Heroes Challenge, Food Waste Challenge and the Sustainability Curriculum. www.worldchefs.org

Moreish Mallows Exciting news for fans of chocolate; actually, make that exceedingly fine chocolate marshmallows from the foothills of Pen y Fan. The Mallow Tailor is the brainchild of Kate and Janet Coton Wright, from Llanfrynach in the Brecon Beacons; and their aim is to produce the best chocolate marshmallows you’ll ever taste. Using the best local ingredients around, expect fillings such as salted caramel, rhubarb and cream and caramallow; and their tea infused marshmallows are available in tins of 6 or 12, tailored to suit each customer. Exquisite and indulgent, they’re also kind to the planet. According to Kate, “...It’s about quality and taste and the environment for us. We’ve tasted a lot of ‘ok’ chocolates and we see so much plastic used to wrap confectionery, so we thought we could shake things up a bit and actually get people really excited about eating fresh beautiful confectionery that limits any environmental damage.”

Myrddin ap Dafydd, as he steps into the role of Welsh Archdderwydd (Archdruid) at the Conwy County National Eisteddfod (3-10 August). Born and raised in Llanrwst, where this year’s Eisteddfod is held, he’s one of twelve directors who originally set up Cwrw Llŷn in Nefyn. The popular craft ale will be available on the Eisteddfod ‘Maes’, so if you see Myrddin in his robes, wish him ‘iechyd da’, as well as ‘heddwch!’ (‘peace’) – the Archdruid’s annual plea to the crowd. www.cwrwllyn.cymru

Welsh Produce celebrated at Co-op Welsh Supplier Awards The Co-op Welsh Supplier Awards celebrate the history, passion, quality and innovation that is found in abundance in Welsh produce – one of the reasons why Co-op stock over 500 Welsh products in-store. Co-op also firmly back British agriculture by sourcing all its own-brand fresh meat from the UK. A move which has ensured Welsh lamb availability year-round. The Minister for Environment, Energy and Rural Affairs, Lesley Griffiths said: “The Co-op Awards allow us to recognise and celebrate our exceptional food and drink products. Welsh food and drink producers are characterized not only by dedication to producing quality products but also to innovation. This year’s award winners are prime examples of this.” Chef Ellis Barrie said: “The beauty, surroundings and abundance of fresh ingredients around our restaurant, The Marram Grass, in Anglesey, is a constant inspiration for our team, and we know this to be the case for many producers and growers in communities across Wales who create stand-out quality food and drink”. Bangor-based Popty Bakery won the Bakery Product of the Year award with their outstanding Bara Brith; something that the company have focused upon in recent years, along with their delicious Welsh Cakes. Congratulations Popty!

Monty’s Brewery

Gwynt Y Ddraig won first prize for their sweet cider once more – this time at the International Cider and Perry Championships held in the Cider Museum, Hereford. www.gwyntcidershop.com

www.montysbrewery.co.uk

Gwynt Y Ddraig Cider sweeps the sweet cider prize

Donna Heath

www.popty.co.uk www.themarramgrass.com

For the second time in three years, Monty’s has been nominated as a Finalist in this year’s CAMRA Champion Beer of Britain award. With results being publicized from 6th August onwards, many will be keen to see how Monty’s continue on their path of success. There were more awards from the London Beer Competition too this year, with a Silver for Dark Secret and two Bronze Awards for Magnitude and Figgy Pud. Monty’s was the only Welsh Brewery to win an award and out of the 26 Silver awards only six were from UK breweries. This only goes to highlight the fantastic quality of this Mid Wales brewery.

www.themallowtailor.co.uk

Myrddin ap Dafydd

www.taste-blas.co.uk

News

Llanllyr SOURCE Premium Water launches ‘water in a can’ By using recycled cans for water, Llanllyr SOURCE have launched a ‘water in a can’ product that gives a big sustainability tick to the company’s credentials. The product can be back on the shelf within six weeks, offers reduced energy consumption, no landfill requirements and minimal waste. The transporting of 330ml cans also gives off 49% less CO2 per litre than that of 500ml plastic bottles. In addition, if more Welsh businesses and individuals use the product, the need to import water from overseas will be reduced. www.llanllyrwater.com

Culinary Association of Wales sends chefs to the USA! Wales is hoping to send a team of talented butchers to the World Butchers’ Challenge in the United States for the first time next year. Contested by 16 countries from around the globe, the event is being held in Sacramento, California in September 2020. We wish Craft Butchery Team Wales all the best!

Double win for Ty Gwyn Creating a genuine artisan fruit cider could be considered a tall order; but Alex Culpin of Ty Gwyn, was determined to make a product where the cider didn’t play second fiddle to the fruit: “It’s a blend of classic bitter-sharp Browns cider apples I pressed myself, along with some truly outstanding blackcurrant juice from a superb local grower – the fruit actually tastes of fruit not flavouring! The duo of Alex and his wife Laura, have also just won a prestigious Silver award for their Ty Gwyn Medium Perry. Here’s to you! www.tygwyncider.co.uk

Cwm Farm Congrats Congratulations to Cwm Farm who won “Best Meat Snack” at this year’s Cannon and Cannon British Charcuterie Competition for their Laverbread Salami. No wonder they provided the canapés for the Queen’s birthday celebrations at the embassies in Brussels and the Hague! www.facebook.com/cwmfarm

Historic Hensol Castle gets boost for business The 400-year old Hensol Castle, used as a backdrop in BBC dramas including Doctor Who, Sherlock Holmes and Torchwood, is set to become a flagship £7 million scheme tourism destination. Located in the grounds of the four-star Vale Resort, visitors will be able to distil their own bespoke bottle of gin, made to their specific taste, take a tour of the distillery operation, learn about the history of gin and Hensol Castle, understand and identify the ingredients used in the distillery; and enjoy a gin tasting and cocktail bar. Stephen Leeke, managing director of the Vale Resort, said: “This is a hugely exciting development at the Vale Resort and another critical step forward in the overall redevelopment of the historic Hensol Castle. “The distillery experience will be totally unique, not just in Wales but globally. It is a key part of our strategy for the re-development of Hensol Castle and its destination restaurant, which will focus on the very best of Welsh food and drink.” www.hensolcastle.com

Apple Country Cider tantalise the taste buds Apple County Cider is a family business, run by Ben Culpin. This dynamic team have launched both a raspberry cider – and a rhubarb cider – perfect for lazy summer evenings. The raspberry has just the right amount of raspberry juice from local growers. This is a refreshing treat for the sophisticated palate. Whilst the Rhubarb, again from local growers, gives a tart edge; a dry and nostalgic treat for the grown-ups. Bottoms Up! www.applecountycider.co.uk © Meryl Cubley

www.taste-blas.co.uk

Premium Coffee from Around the World Roasted in the Rhondda

SPECIAL OFFER Order online by the end of September and receive a 10% discount with

GWESTY CYMRU

CODE TBM1

H O T E L

R e s t a u r a n t

www.twodogscoffeecompany.com

GWESTY CYMRU H O T E L

R e s t a u r a n t

Eat | Drink | Sleep | Relax 01970 612252

Aberystwyth www.taste-blas.co.uk

gwestycymru.com

Wickerpedia Myfanwy Alexander We all have our own picnics of literature and personal legend and it is a truth universally acknowledged that any picnic created in adulthood can never come close to these early feasts. For many of us, Wind in the Willows’ Ratty’s perfect Edwardian basket of treasures remains the classic breathless list: ‘There’s cold chicken inside it,’ replied the Rat briefly; ‘coldtonguecoldhamcoldbeefpickledgherkinssalad frenchrollscresssandwichespottedmeatgingerbeerlemonadesodawater—’ Chicken featured in the first great al fresco meals of my childhood: my brothers and their teenage friends would build a fire of driftwood and would cook a substantial chicken over the glowing embers, a gritty, smoky delight which contravened all sensible rules on ‘cooking things thoroughly.’ We pretended to be Vikings, not a group known for their manners: the greasy hands and faces were all part of the fun. Later, I realised the seductive potential of poussin, warm bread, olives and a bottle of white wine chilled in a stream: a little celebrated charm of the Welsh countryside is the fact that the thirsty wanderer is seldom more than a few yards away from moving water with booze-cooling potential. As a direct result of those romantic summer days, I soon had six young picnickers to provision and the rustic wicker gave way to a battery of unlovely but practical cool boxes. I realised that time and sanity could be saved by expecting the children to complete part of the process themselves: rather than staying up half the night filling rolls, they could select their own combinations of cooked meats, cheeses and salads. I did not make our own pork pies for these outings but when our local butchers, such as Rikki Lloyd of Welshpool, create such excellent products, I felt no guilt. I am, by the way, a great fan of a good pork pie. To quote Marie Kondo, they ‘spark joy’ with their crispy and meaty textures, to ask nothing of the triumph of the jelly. But, personally, I consider that I need a month’s notice to make my own raised crust pie.

www.taste-blas.co.uk

This summer, I am facing the greatest picnic challenge of my life: Glyndebourne. I do love opera and an excuse to don a frock, but there is no doubt that the picnic is the pinnacle of the event, the apogee of al fresco dining, and squishy bread rolls with a bit of ham flabby as a dog’s tongue will not cut the mustard, not even wholegrain Dijon mustard. I am in a party including many epicurean Welsh exiles and so am determined to create a cornucopia of homeland treats. My favourite substantial summer salad is a stylish yet utterly simple mixture of broad beans, lightly smashed if you like, and quails’ eggs in a good vinaigrette. It doesn’t get soggy or bruised, unlike most operatic heroines, and I am lucky enough to have a brother-in-law with a farm in Tuscany making oil which is downright hearty. My next choice would be a carpaccio of smoked venison from the wonderful Beacons Farm Shop in Bwlch, in sherry vinegar, given a little crunch by a few toasted hazelnuts. When I was a guest at a Welsh Venison Centre wedding last summer, we were treated to delicious home produced meat on the most glorious day, and they should know about meat in season. Every picnic needs nibbles and I’m opting for another Powys producer, Cradoc’s Biscuits. My favourite is the baked cocktail biscuit with pear and Earl Grey tea, which has a flavour as understated yet redoubtable as a Jane Austen heroine, perfect for opera on a summer’s evening. The leek and Caerphilly cheese biscuits clamour to be included in my best of Welsh hamper: they sing a lovely duet with a salsa with warmth rather than fire. I wish I had the technology to finish my meal with a blackcurrant sorbet but I fear it would end up like a Ribena Slush Puppy, which doesn’t say Glyndebourne at all, so I’ll channel the best of the Welsh hills with whinberry summer puddings. A bottle of Rondo from Montgomery Vineyard will give the venison a run for its money without having us snooze through Act 2. Wish me well as I take on the gourmets on their home turf; I know Welsh food will hit the highest note.

INTRODUCING EXQUISITE A

RESERVE

YOUR

NEW

CARTE

TABLE

OUR

NOW

Holm House Hotel, Marine Parade, Penarth, Vale of Glamorgan, CF64 3BG Information and reservations on: 02920 706 029 | reception@holmhousehotel.co.uk | www.holmhousehotel.com

SUMMER READY T R A D I T I O N A L

ORDER

FA R M H O U S E

NOW

C I D E R

CONTACT

S A L E S @ G W Y N T C I D E R . C O M O R

P H O N E

0 1 4 4 3

2 0 9 8 5 2

taste. blas magazine: Issue 3, Summer 2019

Articles inside

Dining Out in Style

Very, Very Tasty

Fitting e Bill

A Perfect Picnic

Hone Your Technique

Recipes Galore

Refresher Course

Cool as Ice

Plum Centre

Summer Lovin’

e Post Woman

Northern Stars

A View to rill

All Q’d Up

I Am A Cider Drinker