Warsaw Ghosts pages 14-15
Vietnamese Noodles page 48
Strolling through Praga pages 20-21
october
Scary Warsaw
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E D I T O R EDITOR’S PICK t’s Friday. You are exhausted. Your partner is exhausted. It’s been a dreary week. The last thing you feel like doing is cooking. What to do? Don’t think twice, head to your Favorite Neighborhood Restaurant. Everywhere my family has lived, we’ve had one. If you are as fortunate as we are in Konstancin, you might even have two to choose from. Today we are featuring Pomidoro; Sayam, our other Favorite Neighborhood Restaurant, was a featured pick in the July issue. So what constitutes a neighborhood restaurant? These are my criteria, in order of importance. 1) Location, location, location. You must be able to eat, drink and quickly get home. Walking or bicycle distance is ideal. 2) Consistently good food. No exceptions here; having to send back the main course is enough to knock the Favorite Neighborhood Restaurant down to just another joint in the area. 3) Comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. We want to walk out happier than when we walked in. 4) Finally, a big bonus is seeing friends and neighbors there as well. Other kids to play with our kids (ok, when they were younger), colleagues to greet, friends to perhaps join. Pomidoro has all of these and more. Established in 2003, by the late Jan Wejchert, it was rumored to be a personal favorite of his businesses. Recently it was purchased by two couples, the Bartczaks and the Kusidels. Ewa and Wojciech Kusidel have lived a few blocks away from the restaurant for almost 15 years, and highly value the neighborliness of the ambiance. Already a few changes are evident, as are apt to occur with new ownership. There is a new head chef, a new emphasis on fresh pastas and the menu del giorno, daily specials available from lunch through dinner, presuming of course that the patrons before you didn’t snap it all up. Slight menu tweaking has occurred and the wine list is growing. But there are no ‘baby and the bath water’ revolutions planned here, thankfully. The cuisine remains solidly Italian. The bare walls, industrial interior, which reflects the papermill past life of the building, will not be changed. The staff stays the same: Grzesiek, our regular waiter, is a young man from the neighborhood; we’ve known his parents for years. Pomidoro’s long-time abidance to Rule #2 meant that as patrons we were oblivious to the change of management because the food is just as fresh and tasty as it always was. Whether out to eat with your extended big Greek, Italian, Polish, whatever family or on an intimate first date, there is a corner in Pomidoro for you.
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Trick or Treat, it’s the Halloween issue! he seasons are changing and we at the Insider are changing as well. The Warsaw Insider is the premier, go-to, monthly magazine for the expatriate community. But expats come in all shapes and sizes. We want to change to embrace the entire community. In order to better serve the community and provide you, the reader, with what you want to know, won’t you lend us a hand? The Insider is designed for the English-language speaker living here in Warsaw or visiting frequently. Not inconsequentially, our articles, features and listings are perfect for tourists too and we welcome everyone to share with us in this glorious city and her treasures. But our real strengths lie with writing and photographing for those who live here, work here, go to school here. No matter whether you married into this country or on stopping here for a few years to skip some rungs on the corporate ladder, Warsaw and Poland have much to offer you personally. Living and growing up (and we never stop that, do we?) in Warsaw is what we are about. Like peeling an onion, there is always more depth, more color, more dimension here than you ever expected. Let the Warsaw Insider whet your whistle for adventure and exploration. We are interested in your ideas and suggestions. Maybe it is something pretty straightforward (“How does Wedel make their scrumptious hot chocolate?”) or maybe something more general (“How about a sports section?”). No idea is too small or too large for us to take under consideration as we move forward. Write us with your suggestions at: editor@warsawinsider.pl Paula Rewald
PIOTR WYSKOK
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Pomidoro Stara Papiernia, Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, 05-520 Konstancin-Jeziorna tel. 22 702 8777, www.pomidoro.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00
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The Insider is an independent, accurate and sometimes irreverent account of what’s happening in and around Warsaw. If it’s here, we print it. Insider writers are forbidden to accept payment in return for favourable reviews.
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05 1.
2.
International Chopin Competition
01 Letter from the Editor Trick or Treat 01 Editor’s pick Pomidoro 04 Ongoing Events Art in Chopin’s Time
04 Arts and Entertainment The best of what the city has to offer, from museums and galleries to concerts and parties
Halloween in Poland
05 Insider’s Pick XVI International Chopin Piano Competition
20 Feature Strolling the Neighbourhood: Praga
14 Feature Scary Warsaw
22 Feature A Walk among the Finnish Houses
16 Feature Celebrating All Saints’ Day 18 Feature Celebrating Halloween in Poland
October 2010, No. 10 (170) ISSN: 1643-1723 Publisher Zuzanna Ziomecka
Advertising Dominik Antoniszewski dantoniszewski@valkea.com Production Łukasz Pogoda lpogoda@valkea.com
Managing Editor Jessica Savage-Hanford
32 Chef’s Special Trick or Treating at the Belvedere 38 Hot Find Włoska Robota
Information in this guide is accurate as of press time, but things can change quickly and without notice. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.
Advertising Karol Kosiorek Manager kkosiorek@valkea.com
prewald@valkea.com
27 Insider’s Pick Pod Samsonem
26 Feature Life After Vodka
Staff Photographer Bartosz Bajerski
Editor-in-Chief Paula Rewald
jsavage@valkea.com
24 Feature Let’s Visit an Embassy!
27 Eating Out
Cover Illustration Olka Osadzińska Contributors: Kay Brownsey, Kit F. Chung, Roberto Galea, Elizabeth Gardella-Gribbs, Gretchen Hardey, Aleksandra M. Herbich, Hilary Heuler, Jerzy Kamecki, America Martin, Jay Martin, Agnieszka LeNart, Michal B. Paradowski, Ronald Smit, Piotr “Batman” Wyskok
Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com
Published by VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland;
tel. (48-22) 639-8567; fax (48-22) 639-8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl
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what’s inside:
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71
Diplomacy meets Artistry
Polish your Parking
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48 Hot Find Toan Pho
53 Top bars, pubs & clubs
56 Till You Drop Where to shop for the best fashion, accessories and fine food and drink 56 Hot products In The Kitchen 57 Insider’s Pick Mama Gama
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69 Lifestyle
74 Feature All you need to get Motorcycle Culture around the city, including hotels, spas, salons, 77 Community contacts clinics and community Getting connected contacts and giving back
69 Insider’s Pick Castle Ryn
84 Warsaw Map and Street Index
71 Polish your Polish Parking po polsku
87 Classifieds
60 Feature Mexican Chic
...and find much more at www.warsawinsider.pl
Gretchen Hardey
Photo credits: 1. Courtesy of the National Museum of Warsaw
2. Shutterstock 3. By Ronald Smit 4. By Piotr Wyskok 5. Courtesy of Gretchen Hardey On the cover: Photo by Roberto Galea
featured contributor
Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000
Gretchen translates Halloween for us on page 18. She first moved from the U.S. with her family to Poland in 1996 and is now on her second ‘tour’. Gretchen holds an MBA from Simmons in Boston. She is not ashamed to admit that she has received tickets from the policja for talking on her cell phone, parking in a pedestrian walk and making an illegal right on red. We are dedicating Jay Martin’s Polish Your Polish column this month to her.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES ONGOING EXHIBITIONS Chopin – Iconography of the Romantic Period Muzeum Narodowe (The National Museum)
ongoing until
14 THUR
Art in Chopin’s Time
COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
In commemoration of the 200th anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth, this exhibition presents the works of the most acclaimed French and Polish artists of the Romanticism movement; contextualising the great composer and his music in light of European art and culture in the mid-nineteenth century. The various artistic works assembled (amounting to just under 200 individual works) include drawings, engravings, sculptures and photographs, which explore the iconography of European Romanticism. French artists include: Delacroix, Delaroche, Decamps and Chassériau. Also included are contemporaneous Polish artists: Matejko, Michałowski, Rodakowski, Simmler, Grottger and Kwiatkowski. The bulk of the exhibition is formed from the Museum’s existing collections, although various pieces have been acquired from Polish institutions, both at home and abroad. Info: www.mnw.art.pl.
“Object/subject” [Przedmioty/ Podmioty] Galeria Klimy Bocheńskiej (Klima Bocheńska Gallery)
What kinds of roles do objects play in art? This is one of the questions posed by the most recent exhibition at Klima Bocheńska’s Praga-based gallery. From everyday objects to exceptional creations, the relations between objects and subjects presents a thinking through the artists’ reality and the manner of their works. “Object/subject” displays the works of ten Polish artists, all of who began working in different decades of the last century. From Eugeniusz Markowski, who started his career in the 1950s, to Sławomir Ratajski and Marek Sobczyk, who came to prominence in the country’s politically polemic 1980s, their varied art-works reflect different historical contexts. The exhibition also features paintings by: Modzelewski, Grzyb, Woźniak and Młodożeniec. Info: www.bochenskagallery.pl.
Anette Messager, “On Show” Zachęta Gallery
A French First COURTESY OF ANNETTE MESSAGER
One of the most important French artists active today, Anette Messager began working during the end of the 1960s, in an art world dominated by men. She has since won the Golden Lion for her installation “Casino”in the French Pavillion at the 51st Art Biennale in Venice, the first French female artist to do so. Her work ranges from photographic explorations of the body to installations composed of everyday objects. Gathered by Messager in her small Parisian flat, these shed light on her beliefs about female denigration through social conformity. She also makes use of words and shapes. The Warsaw exhibition features her famous installations of fabrics woven into unusual and wonderful forms. Selected works are presented in six of the gallery’s exhibition rooms and its entrance hall. The Zachęta exhibition is the first retrospective of the artist’s work in Poland. Info: www.zacheta.art.pl
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COURTESY OF ZOFIA JABŁONOWSKA
Role-Playing
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ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Museums, galleries, concerts and events
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Insider’s Pick Arts and Entertainment
COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
02 SUNDAY – 23 SUNDAY music The XVIth International Fryderyk Chopin Piano Competition Multiple Locations
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SHUTTERSTOCK
Once every five years the world of Chopin explodes upon the stage
he sixteenth international installment of this acclaimed Warsaw-based competition begins in earnest this October. Having whittled down its contestants through April’s prelimaries, three rounds of auditions will follow from the 3rd till the 16th of October. This year’s candidates, hail from Russia, the US, Japan, China, Korea, Australia, not to mention the favoured Poles. One of the oldest music festivals in the world (it first premiered in January, 1927), its premise was the brain-child of Prof. Jerzy Żurawlew (1887-1980), an accomplished polish pianist and composer. Ceremonies related to commemoration of 161st anniversary of the death of Chopin will also be staged on the 17th and 18th of October, featuring the Orchestre des Champs-Élysées. The prize winners’ concert will take place in Teatr Wielki (Grand Theatre) on 21st October, at 20:00. The festival allows audiences not only to recognise the current standard of classic pianists, globally, but also a place to observe the changing relationship of attitudes towards Chopin’s works, which happens every five years. The competition will also allow for a wide repertoire of Chopin’s pieces to be performed – from his early works to later maturity – as well as some which are otherwise rarely performed. For more info visit: www.konkurs.chopin.pl and www.teatrwielki.pl. >>
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TO Oct
Tournament Club: Kahuna squash & badminton ul. Zawodzie 26 Aiming to increase the popularity of squash in Poland (which arrived sometime around 1997) the 2010 Squash European Nations Challenge Cup will be located in Warsaw. Spectators have a chance to see 16 male and 8 female teams participate in what has becomes a huge, cross-cultural event. The cup has been running since 2003. Info: www.encc2010.pfs.com.pl
City Design Festival “Warsaw under Construction” (Warszawa w budowie) Multiple Locations The Warsaw Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum Sztuki Nowoczesnej w Warszawie) will be hosting a month-long series of workshops, city walks, open discussions, parties and exhibitions. The festival, which runs from the 1st till the 31st of October, is part of the city’s attempt to become the European Capital of Culture, 2016. Info: www.artmuseum.pl
01 FRI – 03 SUN 02SUN – 20WED Film
Art Exhibition
Kuchnia.tv Food Film Fest Kino Kultura, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23 The second edition of the festival will showcase films from Europe and the US. Films touch on topics such as bee-extinction, local food and diets, soil preservation, the world of plants, and the rather intriguing links between wine and rock music. Info: www.kuchnia.tv.com
Marco Angelini “Solchi Urbani” Galeria Art NEW media, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41 An exhibition of contemporary Italian art, run in conjunction with parallel exhibitions in Rome and Bratislawa. Acknowledged as a step forward for artist Marco Angelini, the exhibition is an exploration of “traces”. It is also an inquiry into the idea that city-
Tel: +48 22 702 10 72
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COURTESY OF ETNOKINO
Art Sport
CZŁOWIEK Z MARMURU (MAN OF MARBLE)
Polish Films in English Etnokino The State Ethnographic Museum (Państwowe Muzeum Etnograficzne w Warszawie) ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 609 525 756 The Autumn season of classic Polish films, featuring English subtitles, begins in Etnokino. Screenings take place every Monday. Tickets cost zł.10. All screenings start at 19:00. For more info visit: www.filmowawarszawa.org or www.ethnomuseum.pl
11.10 08.11 22.11 06.12
Człowiek z marmuru (Man of Marble) – Dir. Andrzej Wajda Człowiek z żelaza (Man of Iron) – Dir. Andrzej Wajda Dzieci Wehrmachtu (The Children of The Wehrmacht) – Dir. Mariusz Malinowski Wodzirej (Top Dog) – Dir. Feliks Falk
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life is a state of mind, rather than a direct reference to reality. www.artnewmedia.pl
08 FRIDAY Party The European Comission in Poland celebrates the 30th Anniversary of Solidarity 21:00–04:00, Centralny Basen Artystyczny. The Rhythm of Freedom (“Rytm Wolności”). A host of DJs and live music.
08 FRIDAY – 17 SUNDAY Film 26th Warsaw Film Festival Kinoteka (Palace of Culture and Science) and MultiKino Złote Tarasy
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Culture The European Comission in Poland celebrates the 30th Anniversary of Solidarity 18:00–20:00, Seminar, University of Warsaw Library: “The Birth of Freedom”. Discusses the origins of the Solidarity movement and its subsequent influence on Eastern Europe. Guests include former German and Czech activists. The discussion will be conducted in English, with Polish translators. The event’s Guest of Honour will be Jose Manuel Barroso, the Chairman of the European Commission.
The Alexandrov Ensemble (Chór Alexandrowa) 19:00, Congress Hall (Sala Kongresowa) This world-renowned choir is comprised of an all-male singing group, dancers and an orchestra. They are the official army choir of the Russian forces and especially acclaimed for the variety of their musical repertoire. Info: www.kongresowa.pl
COURTESY OF ALI TAPIK
ast year, the Warsaw Film Festival became the thirteenth member of FIAPF (International Federation of Film Producers Associations, www.fiapf.org), an elite group which counts the film festivals of Cannes, Berlin and Venice among its prestigious European members. The festival programme includes feature length films, documentaries, and short films. Participating as Jury members are Izabela Plucińska, a Berlin-based Polish animator and feature-film director, Andrzej Jakimowski. All films are screened in their original language versions, from festival prints. In the case of non-English language films, a festival print means a print with English subtitles. Tickets: Empik (prior to the festival); Kinoteka (during the festival) The festival program can be found at www.wff.pl
10 SUNDAY
11 MONDAY
ONGOING this month Art Divercity. Learning from Istanbul – video, installations, photography Multiple Locations Linked to the British Council’s “My City” project, the exhibition is the first Poland-based presentation of the younger generation of Turkish artists, whose work relates to the contemporary and future megapolis of Istanbul. The pieces deal with urban spaces, and the social, political and economic backdrops of modern-day city living. www.csw.art.pl
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ONGOING
Theatre
Art
Migrations Festival Teatr Dramatyczny Teatr Dramatyczny presents the second installment of its festival trilogy: “Migrations”. Invited guests include theatre and music troupes from Germany, Switzerland, Poland and Greecewith foreign directors mixing up polish repertoires.
22nd International Poster Biennale Wilanów’s Poster Museum Wilanów’s Poster Museum is extending the exhibition dates for its competitive exhibition. The Warsaw Biennale is a reveue of posters created worldwide between 2009 and 2010 which are grouped in the following categories: Ideological; Cultural; Advertising; student debuts and an additional category “Chopin Anew.” Info: varsovie.hypatie.com.
till
Sports bars Jimmy Bradley’s ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest Bar Below ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 22 621 21 81, www.barbelow.pl Open Mon-Fri 17:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00 Champions Sports Bar ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 65 tel. 22 630 51 19, www.champions.pl Open daily 11:00-24:00 Sketch Foksal 19, tel. 22 829 29 55,
10 SUNDAY
www.sketch.pl Open daily 12:00-01:00 SomePlace Else ul. Bolesława Prusa 2 tel. 22 450 67 07 www.someplace-else.pl Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-02:00, Sat 16:002:00, Sun 12:00-23:00 Klub Maracana ul. Chłodna 35/37tel. 668 678 266 Open Mon-Thur 17:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 20:00-02:00 Confashion Sport ul. Moliera 6, tel 22 203 6888, www.confashion-sport.pl Open Mon-Sun 09:00-01:00
LEISURE
Confashion Nights Out 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th 16th 22nd 23rd 29th 30th
Mondays “In The Waiting Line.” Evening chillout, from 16:00 Tuesdays “Glam Town” Fashion night: catwalk showings, from 16:00 Wednesdays “Kind of Blue” / Modern Jazz, from 16:00 Thursdays “Like a Rolling Stone” / Thursday rock classics, from 16:00 “Retro Party” / Ed Szynszyl & The Sweets / 22:00 “Scandals Boutique” / DJ Hugo, DJ Nobis / 22:00 “180 Minutes To Party” / DJ Licky/ 23:00 “Video Dance Party” / DJ Matt Kowalsky / 22:00 “The Finest in Black Music” / DJ Vibe/ 22:00 “Confashionism – true music religion” / DJ Moondeck / 22:00 “Sound Desire” / DJ Chriss Jaxx / 22:00
AT HOME AROUND THE WORLD
WA R S AW
+48 22 73 77 200 www.corstjens.com
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info@corstjens.pl
XXX
16 SAT – 31 SUN COURTESY OF ANDREAS POHLMANN
>>
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Best of Warsaw o vote, visit our webpage: T www.warsawinsider.pl Voting ends midnight, October 7th.
Vote now!
Winners announced in the November issue … and the nominees are:
Eating Out: Premium Categories Best Polish Cuisine
Best International
Best Asian Cuisine
Best Newcomer
U Fukiera Delicja Polska Dyspensa Stary Dom Różana
99 Likus Concept Amber Room Fusion at the Westin La Rotisserie
The Oriental at the Sheraton Sayam Ganesh Galeria Bali Papaya
Merliniego 5 Platter at the InterContinental Amber Room Trattoria Rucola Sayam
Best European Cuisine Best Latin Cuisine
Best Sushi
Rozbrat 20 Belvedere Bellini San Lorenzo Vapiano
Sakana Tomo Izumi Sushi Zushi The Place
Blue Cactus Argentine Frida Nowy Świat Casa To Tu Fiesta Mexicana
Eating Out: Best Deal Categories Best Brunch Deal
Best Dinner Deal
Kafka Cafe Vincent To Lubię Francuska 30 Kawiarnia Ogrody
99 Meza at the Hilton Downtown at the InterContinental Dom Polski Lemon grass
Magazyn Butelek Bordo Polka U Szwejka Bazyliszek
Best Breakfast Deal
Best Lunch Deal
Best Service
Czaj Jeff’s Hard Rock Cafe Blue Cactus Żywiciel
Hard Rock Cafe U Kucharzy Restauracja Polska Różana Ye Olde Foode Michel’s Brasserie
La Rotisserie Tradycja San Lorenzo Bistro de Paris Ale Gloria
Going Out
BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
Best Cafe
For an invitation to attend our Best of Warsaw event on Thursday, October 28 (the best party in town), email: events@warsawinsider.pl
Lifestyle
Best Night Out – Bar
Best Night Out – Club Best Wine Bar
Best Spa
Powiśle Sketch Confashion Paparazzi Someplace Else
Nine El Presidente Platinium Opera Enklawa
Zen Divine Le Space Fabryka Próżności Dotyk Spa
Jung & Lecker Vintage Enoteka Mielżyński Vinoteka 13
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THE SCREENING ROOM
15th
Eat Pray Love (Jedz, módl się, kochaj) Drama. USA, Dir. Ryan Murphy, with Julia Roberts, James Franco, Javier Brdem Based on the book by Elizabeth Gilbert, the film follows a woman taking a round-the-world journey of self-discovery.
COURTESY OF WARNER BROS. PICTURES
COURTESY OF COLUMBIA TRISTAR
Get Him to the Greek Comedy. USA, Dir. Nicholas Stoller, with Jonah Hill, Emily Blunt, Russel Brand A record company executive must force an unco-operative rock star into a comeback concert.
8th Piranha 3D (Pirania 3D) Horror. USA, Dir. Alexandra Aja, with Elisabeth Shue, Jessica Shor, Jerry O’Connell A group of strangers bandy together to do battle with prehistoric man-eating fish.
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Legend of the Guardians (Legendy sowiego królestwa) Fantasy animation. Australia, Dir. Zack Snyder, voices Hugh Jackman, Ryan Kwanten, David Wenham A young barn animal named Soren is kidnapped. He subsequently discovers a plot whereby young owlets are brainwashed into becoming soldiers.
Let Me In (Pozwól mi wejść) Horror. USA, Dir. Matt Reeves, with Chloe Moretez, Richard Jenkins In a New Mexico town, a bullied 12year-old boy becomes friends with a vampire child, who lives in secrecy.
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Boy Comedy. New Zeland, Dir. Taika Waititi, with Craig Hall, James Rolleston 11-year-old- New-Zealander “Boy” comes face to face with an absent father.
The Other Guys (Policja zastępcza) Comedy. USA, Dir. Adam McKay, with Mark Wahlberg, Will Farell, Samuel L. Jackson Mismatched New York detectives attempt to live up to the reputation of their police idols.
Charlie St. Cloud Drama. USA, Dir. Burr Steers, with Zac Efron Amanda Crew A young man overcome by grief at the death of his younger brother, takes up a job as caretaker of the cemetery in which his brother is buried.
22nd Get Low (Aż po grób) Comedy drama. USA, Dir. Aaron Schneider, with Robert Duvall, Bill Murray, Sissy Spacek The fabled life of a 1930s Tennessee hermit.
Vampires suck (Wampiry i świry) Comedy. USA, Dir. Jason Friedberg, Aaron Seltzer, with Ken Jeong Vampire Spoof based on the Twilight series. Teenage Becca is torn between two love interests in her native town of “Sporks.”
Saw 3D The Traps Come Alive (Piła VII 3D) Horror. USA, Dir. Kevin Greutert, with Tobin Bell, Btesy Russel, Costas Mandylor Survivors must group together to do battle with the vicious ‘jigsaw.’ Furry Vengeance (Zemsta futrzaków) Comedy. USA, Dir. Roger Kumble, with Brendan Fraser, Ken Jeong, Brooke Shields A real estate developer faces protest from local woodland creatures when he tries to turn their forest into a housing development site.
COURTESY OF TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION
Animal Kingdom (Królestwo Zwierząt) Drama. Australia, Dir. David Michod, with Guy Pierce, Ben Mendelsohn, Joel Edgerton When Josh’s mother dies of an overdose, the teenager unexpectantly finds himself living with his criminal family.
29th
The American Thriller. USA, Dir. Anton Corbijn, with George Clooney Assassin Jack travels to Italy as a respite from a world of violence- or so he thinks
COURTESY OF COLUMBIA PICTURES
COURTESY OF PARAMOUNT PICTURES
COURTESY OF FRAGILE FILMS
Dorian Gray Drama. UK, Dir. Oliver Parker, with Ben Barnes, Rebecca Hall, Colin Firth Parker’s third foray into adapting Oscar Wilde’s novels for the screen (The Importance of Being Earnest, An Ideal Husband), sees a beautiful young man make a pact for eternal yout.
Dinner for Schmucks Comedy. USA, Dir. Jay Roach, with Paul Rudd, Steve Carell, Lucy Punch The only thing standing between Tim (Paul Rudd) and total career success is surviving his boss’s annual company dinner.
COURTESY OF SUMMIT ENTERTAINMENT.
1st
COURTESY OF SMOKEHOUSE PICTURES
Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . S e e m o r e a t : w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l
Cyrus Comedy. USA, Dir. Jay Duplass, Mark Duplass, with John C. Reilly, Jonah Hill A recently divorced man’s relations with both his ideal woman – and her son.
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Museums & Galleries Appendix2 (Praga) ul. Białostocka 9, www.appendix2.com Art New Media Gallery (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41 www.artnewmedia.pl Centre for Contemporary Art (CSW) – Ujazdowski Castle (E6) ul. Jazdów 2, tel. 022 625-0522 www.csw.art.pl Fryderyk Chopin Museum Ostrogorski Palace, ul Okólnik 1, tel. 22 441 6251, chopin.museum/en Galeria ART (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 17, www.galeriaart.pl Galeria Art New Media (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41 www.artnewmedia.pl Galeria Asymetria (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 8/8A, www.asymetria.eu Galeria ATAK (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 www.atak.art.pl Galeria Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 1/4, www.galeriafoksal.pl Galeria Klimy Bocheńskiej ul.Zabkowska 27/31 tel. (+48) 601 511 713 www.bochenskagallery.pl History Meeting House (D3) ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Historical Museum of Warsaw (D1) Old Town Rynek 28-4, www.mhw.pl Katarzyna Napiórkowska Art Gallery (D1) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, ul. Puławska 17 www.napiorkowska.pl
Venues
Konarska-Konarski (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 022 841-2846 www.konarska-konarski.com.pl
Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 tel. 022 826-8570
Projekt Kordegarda (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3 www.zacheta.art.pl
Kordegarda (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17 www.zacheta.art.pl
CBBM Contemporary Art Gallery Fabryka Koronek, ul. Burakowska 5/7 www.fabrykakoronek.pl
Reduta Banku Polskiego (D2) ul. Bielańska 10, www.reduta.pl
Le Guern Gallery (D5) ul. Widok 8, www.gallery.leguern.pl
Centralny Basen Artystyczny (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6 tel. 022 339-0761 www.basen.art.pl
Lokal 30 (E4) ul. Foksal 17 B, www.lokal30.pl Museum of Independence (B2) Al. Solidarności 62 www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw (C4) ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl National Museum in Warsaw (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Raster ul. Hoża 42/8 raster.art.pl/galeria Simonis Gallery (A1) Latająca galeria/Flying Gallery ul. Burakowska 9, tel. 022 637-3610 www.simonisgallery.com www.latajaca-galeria.pl Warsaw Archeological Museum (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 022 504-4800 www.pma.pl Wilanów Poster Museum (Wilanów) ul. Kostki Potockiego 10 www.postermuseum.pl Warsaw Rising Museum (A4) ul. Grzybowska 79, tel. 022 539-7905 www.1944.pl Yours Gallery (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 33 www.yoursgallery.com Zachęta National Art Gallery (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3 tel. 022 827-5854, www.zacheta.art.pl
Over 0,000 people in Warsaw do as well.
Stodoła ul. Stefana Batorego 10, www.stodola.pl
Confashion Cocktail Bar & Restaurant (D2) ul. Moliera 2 www.confashion.pl
Teatr Nowy (D9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 www.nowyteatr.org
Etnokino at the National Ethnographic Museum (D3) ul. Kredytowa 1 www.pme.art.pl
TR Delikatesy ul. Marszałkowska 8 www.delikatesytr.blog.pl
Fotoplastikon (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 51 www.fotoplastikon.steroes.com Grand Operahouse/National Theatre Pl. Teatralny 1 www.teatrwielki.pl Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222-0700 www.hardrock.com
Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 tel. 022 828-3409, www.tygmont.com.pl Nowy Teatr ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 www.nowyteatr.org Teatr Dramatyczny Palace of Culture – Pl. Defilad 1 www.teatrdramatyczny.pl
Hilton Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 63 www.hilton.com
Teatr Studio/Galeria Studio Palace of Culture – Pl. Defilad 1 www.teatrstudio.pl
Jazzownia Liberalna (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, www.jazzownia.com
Iluzjon Filmoteki Narodowej Al. Niepodległości 213 www.fn.org.pl
Kino LAB (E6) CSW Zamek Ujazdowski ul. Jazdów 2, tel. 022 628-1271 www.csw.art.pl/kino_lab/
Teatr na Woli ul. Kasprzaka 22, www.wolnawola.home.pl
Palladium (D4) ul. Złota 7/9, www.palladium.art.pl
?
See this 2
Sala Kongresowa (C4) Pałace of Culture and Science, pl. Defilad 1, www.pkin.pl/sala_kongresowa/
Teatr Remus ul. Targowa 8, www.teatrremus.pl
Karol Kosiorek, kkosiorek@valkea.com tel. 022 639-8567 #150 mob. 0606 911-955
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“SCARY” WARSAW BY JESSI SAVAGE-HANFORD
The Insider’s Jessi SavageHanford joins up with actors Ania Markowicz and Maciek Makowski to exchange ghost stories
particularly ill-at-ease as a youngster). A lot of the ghost stories I have heard were told in Poland, at my grandparents’ apartment in Warsaw. In light of our Halloween-themed issue, I’m taking the opportunity to update these childhood tales, and get to know some new ones!
rowing up in England, All Hallow’s G Eve and All Saints’ Day were times to bring out the ghost stories. Since
A friend of my mother’s once recalled that while dining in the newly furbished apartment of close relatives in y cousin’s grandfather used to tell Mokotów, he felt uneasy during the us the following story when we meal. It was as if the atmosphere had were quite young (but maintained it well turned; something wasn’t right. Upon into our adolescence). It was about an voicing this concern to the other guests old Polish palace haunted by ghosts, present, one of them rebuked him with, among them a young woman who “You feel uneasy? I can see two men had been murdered in one standing by your right side.” of the castle’s turrets. A popular tourist stop, ghostly activity was War Stories at first unheard of. his type of Polish ‘ghost story’ is the Then during one most common type that I have such tour, heard in Poland. Not to dwell on the a young painful or macabre, one of the more female moving narratives revolves around an visitor experience relating to my great uncle. seemed to Toward the end of World War II, he was become possessed. In the recovering from serious injury at a stately home that had been converted middle of the into a temporary hospital. One night, palace, she he dreamt of his mother bidding him suddenly started farewell. He woke to the real-life screaming and howling sensation of someone kissing him on that she had been murdered. The cause of his forehead. It was then that a nurse entered the room, wanting to know her distress seemed about the woman who had just left my to come from a large portrait. The soldier-uncle’s bedside. He subsequently went to his window and tour-guide took the portrait saw a woman, who he recognised to be his mother, floating away from the down to house and down the garden path. find that The next morning he received word of instead of a solid his mother’s death from tuberculosis. wall, there He hadn’t seen her since the start of was a small the war. door, which led to a hitherto Książ Castle
childhood I’ve known all the basics: ghosts like damp, dark conditions (such as basements); moving furniture around an old house can upset previous (deceased) occupants; and cats and children are apparently more adept at sensing the ‘presence’ of spirits (making me feel
undiscovered chamber. The hidden room housed a small bed, which had bloodstained bed sheets and the bones of an unidentified, young woman.
Dinner Party
Haunted Palace
M
DRAWINGS BY PIOTR WYSKOK
T
ocated some distance from Warsaw LCastle. (thankfully) is the 700-year old Książ It is open to the general public
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A BEGINNER’S GUIDE
Akademia Teatralna genuine ghostly occurrence. Polish actress and ghost story connoisseur, Ania Markowicz explained how her night-time excursion to the castle was part of the real deal. “We were in a group of ten, standing underneath the castle, when the guard started explaining how the upper floors have no lighting (they never had any electricity) and how, in later years, they were rarely used. It was just then that a bright light appeared in one of these rooms, and then in another room. One room after another, the top floor lit up with an impossibly dazzling light. I looked at the guard half-expecting to be let in on the joke – but his face had turned stone white. It was evening and there was no one left in the building. It was the strangest of sensations – standing there in this tour group, utterly transfixed upon these glowing rooms...” [NB: The castle no longer caters to night tours…] The guard later revealed a similar (even scarier!) occurrence to Ania, saying that a tour group, who had visited the castle some weeks earlier, had stood in the corridor in order to have various items on display explained to them, when one group member pointed out an unused, ironwrought door. The guide responded that the heavy entranceway hadn’t been used in years and that he wasn’t even sure of where it led. At that very
moment an elderly woman opened the door, stepped out of it, oblivious to the petrified crowd and walked down the corridor.
Haunted Halls of Residence hen Anna was a student, studying W at the Drama Academy; she recalls a certain winter holiday, which she had to spend alone in her Warsawbased residence hall. She explains how the building would also sometimes house various tenants, who moved in when the students had left for the holidays. So, whilst spending her nights studying, Anna wasn’t initially surprised by the sound of children running down the corridors. What did seem curious was the fact that this happened at 1am (exactly), a curious time for young children to be playing. The next night it also happened again at 1am. When it happened for the third night (at the same time) Anna went to the door and debated whether to open it. Fearing what she might or might not see, she decided to remain behind closed doors. On her final day in the accommodation she enquired about the “family with young children” from the porter on her way out. “What family?” she recalls him saying. “You’ve been our only tenant here for some time.”
aciek told a tale about his time as a M student at Warsaw’s Academy of Dramatic Arts. Whilst there, he became familiar with the popular rumour that the upper halls of the Academy were haunted; students wouldn’t wander there after school hours and janitors refused to clean there after dark. Intrigued, Maciek and a friend decided to brave a night alone in the school. They heard doors slamming, people walking down the halls and whispering. Needless to say, they did not repeat their experiment in a hurry.
Kabaty he ghosts seemed to have followed T Maciek to the apartment where he now resides. A few of the rooms, he claims, have developed their own strange custom of housing ‘shadows’ which first appeared just after Maciek had moved in. Whilst brushing his teeth in an adjacent room across the hall, he saw that several shadows were spreading across the room, as if a group of people had suddenly gathered there. The shadows were clearly defined human forms and they reappear sporadically throughout the year.
Polish Ghost Tour! Zamek Książ, www.ksiaz.walbrzych.pl Akademia Teatralna, ul. Miodowa 22/24, Warsaw
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CELEBRATING ALL SAINTS’ DAY
BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
BY HILARY HEULER
Not just for Polish nationals, suggestions for how to share this special holiday
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POWĄZKI CEMETERY
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On All Saints’ Day, cemeteries across the country come alive with candles, flowers and well-wishers. As any seasoned foreigner will tell you, it can be one of the most awe-inspiring experiences in Poland. All Saints’ Day (also known as “All Hallows”) is a Christian holiday devoted to commemorating those who have passed away, and the candles laid on graves supposedly allow departed souls to find their way in the darkness. But while the Church may have adopted the tradition in the 7th century, the custom of visiting cemeteries and lighting candles actually dates back to pagan times and an ancient Slavic feast called dziady (meaning “forefathers” – also the title of a famous play by Adam Mickiewicz). This historical link may explain why the holiday is more rigorously observed here than it is in the West. Neighbouring countries, such as the Czech Republic and Hungary, have similar traditions, but the prevalence of religious Catholics in Poland makes this a particularly special place to celebrate All Saints’ Day. So what can you expect on November 1st? First of all, it’s a national holiday, so don’t expect the shops to be open. Second, avoid the roads; it’s common for Poles to return to their home towns around All Saints’ Day to visit the
BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
f you have ever walked past a Polish cemetery at night, you will probably have noticed the candles – dozens of candles burning all day, all night, at all times of year. It can be a touching sight, a reminder that the dead are gone but not forgotten. But unless you’ve visited a cemetery on the evening of November 1st – All Saints’ Day – trust me, you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.
THE MILITARY CEMETERY
cemeteries of their relatives, and both the traffic and road accidents are at their worst. But most importantly, DO visit a cemetery! The best way in Warsaw is to take advantage of the special bus routes set up around town to ferry people to and from the most popular cemeteries, such as Brodno Cemetery in Praga and the Military
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ALL SAINTS’ BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
EVENING SOLITUDE
Cemetery (Cmentarz Wojskowy). But you’ll find the biggest crowds at Powązki, the final resting place of a host of Polish luminaries, an elegant place filled with beautiful, vine-covered statuary. Consider a visit there around dusk, when the tens of thousands of twinkling candles really start to come into their own. Making your way through the throngs of people you’ll find the hawkers at the gate selling candles, flowers and pinkand-white pańska skórka, a type of homemade taffy candy traditionally sold only on November 1st. If you haven’t brought a candle of your own, this is a good place to pick one up – the candles in glass lanterns are specially designed to burn for hours, even days. If you don’t have a specific grave to visit, you can still participate; one of the most extraordinary things about this holiday is the fact that nearly all graves get at least one candle, as people go out of their way to decorate the tombs of those whose friends and relatives aren’t there to care for them. As a foreigner, I like to focus my attentions on these graves – it can take a while to locate a candleless tomb in Powązki, but keep walking toward the back and you will find some. By nightfall, the cemetery is transformed into a flickering sea of red and gold. It’s both moving and breathtakingly beautiful. Roman Catholics are obliged to attend mass on All Saints’ Day, so you’ll notice that the churches are packed.
POWĄZKI AT NIGHT
“By nightfall, the cemetery is transformed into a flickering sea of red and gold…” Chapels in the cemeteries themselves are usually overflowing, so if you fancy stopping in for a bit of spiritual solace you might find that your only option is to stand outside.
From a Western (particularly American) perspective, the only down side to this holiday is that it puts a bit of a damper on any Halloween parties you plan on throwing the night before – not only will most of your Polish friends be out of town, but with all the solemn reflection on death and the departed, no one much feels like partying. But it’s a small price to pay for the chance to take part in such an extraordinary national outpouring of love and respect for those who are no longer with us. Powązki Cemetery is on ul. Okopowa, entrance from ul. Powazkowska. w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l
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CELEBRATING HALLOWEEN IN POLAND
BY GRETCHEN HARDEY ELIZABETH GARDELLA-GRIBBS
“Trick of Treat” invokes memories of costume angst, bags of candies, serious fun. Gretchen Hardey gives hints of how to bring the holiday to Poland ELIZABETH GARDELLA-GRIBBS
t out the “Could you poinald?” road to Grunw hen our family moved to Poland in 1996, we wanted to cling to as many of our American traditions as possible for our children’s sake (okay, and ours also!). However, we discovered to our disappointment that Halloween was not celebrated widely in Poland. In our early days of residing here, groups of parents would organize Halloween evenings so that our sartorially
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rs rs ba a M s fer ia pre e L s es Princ festooned children could safely visit designated homes of ex-pats in order to collect as much overly sugared and unhealthy candy as possible. Wellinformed teachers at the American and British Schools of Warsaw took vitamins and went to sleep early on these nights as they were painfully aware that their young charges would be clinging to various portions of the
ceilings and light fixtures for the next few mornings. Polish friends inquired about the history of the holiday, and with a great deal of aplomb and sophistication, I replied, “Uh, I really don’t know.” Actually, the name Halloween is derived from All Hallow’s Eve, the day before All Hallow’s (also called All Saints) Day, which dates as far back as the 16th century. While All Hallow’s Day
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spirits. I’m just speculating here, but pumpkins are much more plentiful in North America, and more importantly, pumpkins are much easier to carve than gourds, so our ancestors probably adapted. In the United States and Canada, Halloween is a secular holiday. In fact, it has become a highly lucrative commercial industry for firms that manufacture candy and costumes, and farmers who produce pumpkins in addition to the increasing popularity of “haunted houses”. Costumes for children have morphed from strictly scary garb to a plethora of disguises, such as Darth Vader, ballerinas, bumble bees, all characters from the Disney movies and any other costume Mom can devise. There is apparently no limit to the humiliation youngsters have suffered at the hands of moms intent on creating the cutest costume in the world. “I hear Złota 44 is hiring!” Let’s bring the discussion full circle back to how Halloween is celebrated in Poland! Due to the influence of ex-pats, Polish children, (November 1st) is a Christian not being fools, have found that the holiday which honors the dead, modern occasion of collecting candy and other Halloween, so recently introduced to Warsaw and Poland, stems from the primarily North American celebration of the holiday in a secular manner. The origins of Halloween, however, were decidedly religious in nature. Both Celtic and Scottish history viewed the end of October as the end of the calendar year otherwise known as the Light Time. November 1 was considered the end of the harvest season and the beginning of the Dark Time. It was believed in early Celtic times that the night before All Saints’ Day provided a diminution in the passage between this life and the next, allowing not altogether friendly spirits to pass back to this side. The practice of wearing costumes came about because it was believed goodies from friends and neighbors to be that the wearing of frightening garb a cultural gift not to be ignored. It is now would discourage the visits of evil not unusual for Polish children to dress spirits on the night before All Saints’ up and ring door or gate bells on October Day. Centuries ago people carved 31 in search of sweet treasure. It is masks out of gourds and it was believed important to emphasize that the term these masks would help ward off evil “trick or treat” is a historically based
greeting that children call out to the houses they visit; it should never be construed as a threat and if the lights are not on in a house, this means that the residents are not taking part in Halloween and are not targets for “tricks” or any inappropriate behavior. Another suggestion for a great way to celebrate Halloween in Poland is to have a party rather than trying to organize houses to visit. Haunted houses, replete with carved pumpkins and scary ghosts, constructed in playrooms or basements can be a fun and safe way to have fun on Halloween evening. Because in Poland Halloween is always followed by a school holiday, Halloween parties are increasingly popular with parents and their little goblins! Whether Halloween is celebrated in Poland or North America, it can be a fun and enthusiastic way to usher in the fall season, as long as parents ensure that safety is the top priority. My twentysomething children no longer agonize over their Halloween costumes this time of year, and if they do, I’m not sure I want to know about it. But they have happy memories of their long ago Halloweens, Polish style.
tty!” up, Sco e m m a “Be
“It was believed that the night before All Saints’ Day provided a diminution in the passage between this life and the next, allowing spirits to pass back to this side…
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ELIZABETH GARDELLA-GRIBBS
ELIZABETH GARDELLA-GRIBBS
TRICK OR TREAT
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Praga
or some Varsovians, the idea of spending time in Praga is downright scary. Despite its previously dubious reputation Warsaw’s right bank is fast shedding its dodgy past as a host of funky new shops, cafes and bars spring up, many spearheaded by some of Warsaw’s more creative characters. Ząbkowska and 11 Listopada may already be wellknown party scenes, but this month the Insider’s Hilary Heuler sees that Warsaw’s wild side is only just beginning to unfurl.
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
F
BY HILARY HEULER
ROBERTO GALEA
STROLLING THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
Winowajca Dada ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717 www.galeriadada.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 It’s a bit hard to define exactly what Dada sells, but one thing is certain – you won’t find any of it anywhere else. This is the place to go for truly unique jewellery (think crochet earrings, felt rope necklaces and beads the size of saucers), or printed tunics designed by local artists. There is non-wearable art as well, including lamps made out of everything from bowler hats to kitchen sieves.
ul. Inżynierska 1, tel. 503 083 450 www.winowajca.org Open Mon-Fri 10:00-midnight, Sat 12:00-last customer, Sun 14:00-22:00 With an impossibly cool bar and a simple menu that changes daily (try the pumpkin soup), this new kid on the block promises to
become a favourite hangout for the artistic types that haunt the neighbourhood. An eclectic collection of comfy furniture and “the nicest bartender in Praga” (so they say) shouldn’t hurt either. It looks tiny at first glance, but more seating can be found in the back.
ul. Inżynierska 3, tel. 22 619 1254 / 506 488 481 baza.studiomelon.pl & www.senpszczoly.pl Drop into Café Melon in the afternoon for a hot drink and a peek at the featured work of local artists and photographers. Then, once the sun sets, duck into the courtyard where you’ll find Sen Pszczoły, one of Praga’s newest late-night hot spots. Musical offerings vary depending on the date, but they offer live music or DJs most weekends – check the website for detailed programmes.
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ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
Café Melon & Sen Pszczoły
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ROBERTO GALEA
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
PRAGA DISTRICT
Szuflada Ząbkowska Street Bars ul. Ząbkowska 5, 6 & 11 Despite being more established institutions, these three funky bars on ul. Ząbkowska – Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (“On the Other
ZĄBKOWSKA 6 Side of the Mirror”), W Oparach Absurdu (“In the Realm of Absurdity”) and Łysy Pingwin (“Bald Penguin”) – are still a crucial part of any proper Praga night out. Each has its own local colour and eccentric décor, and since they’re on the same street, it’s possible to hit them all in one night.
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
ul. Kawęczyńska 4, tel. 22 619 5217 Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 With its mad jumble of jewellery, handbags and antique knick-knacks, it can take a few minutes to get into the spirit of “Szuflada” (or ‘Drawer’ in English). But it’s an experience well worth the effort. Once you venture into the back, you’ll discover that this little shop’s real selling point is its collection of vintage clothes. Here, you can rummage through the racks-loads of quirky period items, from 1960s-era frocks to fascinating little pillbox hats. Ideal for anyone look for a unique find.
Mucha nie siada ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669 Open daily 10:00-22:00 This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighbourhood, it’s a welcome addition. Bright pillows and big windows give it a cheerful air and the menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee (10 different kinds of espresso!) is reason enough to while away an afternoon. They’ve also got WiFi.
Czarny Motyl ul. Zabkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964 www.czarnymotyl.pl Open daily 12:00 to last customer An intriguing cross between a chilled-out bar and a café, this is a good spot to grab a light
meal (of salad, pasta and naleśniki), a preparty drink or a post-work sheesha. But don’t be fooled by the interior of antique trinkets – this place is for the seriously hip. The massive umbrella in the middle of the room is a dead giveaway.
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BY JAY MARTIN
An unexpected pocket of extremely desirable real-estate tucked in the center of town
A WALK AMONG THE FINNISH HOUSES ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
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houses specifically were part of Finnish post-war reconstruction contributions to the USSR. Of the original 200 or so, 28 survive today. “Not bad for a temporary measure,” I comment. “In Warsaw, temporary solutions often last the longest,” Kacper notes.
Despite the low rumble from nearby Trasa Łazienkowska, there’s almost no traffic along the actual streets here – which include, surprisingly, ul. Johna Lennona. Kacper explains that on the first anniversary of Lennon’s death, in 1981, Beatles fans marched down to this
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
had barely got started on my walk around the ‘Finnish houses’ with architectural guide Kacper Nosarzewski, when he tells me that the only thing I thought I’d known about them isn’t true. “Many people think they were built for the workers building the Palace of Culture and Science. But they weren’t.” The little clutch of dark wooden houses seem entirely out of place in the heart of grey, concrete Warsaw. I have often wondered what their story was, but I wasn’t able to find out much. And now the one thing I had read turned out to be wrong. Kacper explains that these bungalows, along ul. Jazdów in central Warsaw, were built in 1945 as temporary emergency housing for the architects, engineers and other professionals needed to start planning for the city’s rebuilding. There were other ‘Finnish’ houses built for the Palace workers in other parts of Warsaw, as well as pockets in Gdańsk and Silesia, but those came later – in the 1950’s. All of them came prefabricated from Finland – hence the Finnish moniker – but the Jazdów
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then unnamed lane, sang ‘Give Peace a Chance’ and erected a makeshift street sign claiming it in the name of their hero. Ironically, four days later, the government declared martial law. But in 1991, the fans got their wish, and street got its present-day name. Walking around the little houses, each with their own leafy garden and distinctive black pitch roof, it’s almost impossible to believe you haven’t left Warsaw altogether. The closest thing I can think of is visiting a skansen, those Polish open-air historic museums that preserve long dead ways of life. The community here, though, is very much alive and kicking. “Living here has its pluses and minuses,’ says Elżbieta Funkiewicz, who moved here in 1971 when she got married. Her husband’s father was an architect, and his family had lived in the house since it was built. “On the plus side, we’re right in the centre of the city. On the minus, there’s electricity, cold water and sewerage – and that’s it.” Her heating comes from wood, and a boiler provides hot water. One of her neighbours, Jan Fomin, wanders up with his grandson. Jan, an artist, was born in 1947 in the same house he still lives in today. They confirm what Kacper has told me, that these properties are not owned privately, but leased from the city. “I guess we’re sort of relics of communism, aren’t we?” Jan says. As
we sit on Elżbieta’s porch sipping coffee , I experience the wonderful sense of community here first hand. “It’s just like a big family,” Elżbieta says, “A very artistic one – our parents were artistic, we are, and our children are, too.”
“Of the original 200 or so [temporary houses], 28 survive today…”
They also confirm that these bungalows never housed workers, but planners, architects and such. Ironically, Jan tells me that the city planning professionals for whom the houses were built actually had little say in the design of post-war Warsaw, due to the Soviet planning directives they were bound by at the time. I ask them if they remember the John Lennon gathering. “Oh yes, they came here, playing their guitars and smoking pot – we didn’t even know what marijuana was at that time, it was a huge shock!” they laugh. Jan comments, “I think the idea of calling it John Lennon Street was just a joke at the start, but now I live on that street!” On a serious note, though, Jan and Elżbieta tell me that the soil here is eroding. “It’s the vibrations from the Trasa Łazienkowska; they’re threatening the houses.” The roar from the freeway suddenly seems much more sinister. “So this won’t last forever?” I ask. They shake their heads. Jan comments, “One day, maybe all that will be left is what has been written about what was once here.” “You know, these days so many people emigrate, to see new things,” he continues. ‘Yet Warsaw is full of little places like this that so many Varsovians have never even been to. Many people don’t even know it’s here.” We look down at Jan’s grandson – the fourth generation of his family in that house, I observe. “You’re right,” he says. “Where could be better?”
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
ROBERTO GALEA
OUR NEIGHBORHOOD
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LET’S VISIT AN EMBASSY! BY RONALD SMIT windows and pointy towers. The Japanese ambassador’s residence is a textbook example of a home from the land of the rising sun. And then there is the contrasting Dutch embassy. Unique in architecture and although hypermodern, there is a strong link with the past. An ignorant h yes, the embassy. Place of bypasser will be impressed by the international intrigue, exciting magnificent fence: green, metalic parties for the happy few, and vegetation. With a little luck he or she diplomacy at its best. Well, that may be so will get a glimpse of the garden with its in some rogue states, but in most civilized beautiful pond. But what is it like countries the embassy is a harbour for inside? Most people never get a glimpse expats, a solid trade-supporting centre of the inside of such a building. and above all a business card from the In that respect, the Dutch embassy is country it represents. no exception. So we took a look inside, No wonder that embassies quite to boldly go where no ordinary citizen often are masterpieces of architecture. ever goes. Cultural Attaché Martin van If you walk around in Warsaw’s new Dijk has been working at the embassy embassy quarter – mainly located on for eight years already. He praises the and around ul. Kawalerii – it feels a bit building, being especially happy with like having holidays. The quiet lanes the abundant light and openness of his full of lush greenery give you a taste of working environment. This openness is the good life, a perfect place for a one of the hallmarks of the design as it relaxing stroll. The embassies not only creates a spacious environment themselves are bastions of a foreign but at the same time is a symbol for the nation, sturdily fenced and wellopenness and accessibility of the Dutch guarded. But at the same time they government and the nation as a whole. seem to bring in some atmosphere from far away and sometimes also Past versus present from times long gone. Surprisingly, this modern building Take for example the Spanish designed by the Dutch firm Erick van embassy – Mediterranean white, small Egeraat Architects has some very strong
COURTESY OF THE NETHERLANDS EMBASSY
Old World luxury meets modern-day charm: Ronald Smit visits Warsaw’s thriving embassies
A
links with the past. The design is based on work of the 17th century Dutch architect, Tylman van Gameren. Van Gameren was active in Poland, designing such buildings as the palace in Nieborów, Branickich in Białystok and the St. Kazimierz Church in Warsaw. He enjoyed simplicity, openness and at the same time he had a great eye for detail. An example of this combination of talents is easy to find in the embassy, KACZYŃSKA TULIP
WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
COURTESY OF THE NETHERLANDS EMBASSY
GRACEFUL GATES
NL EMBASSY INTERIOR
One of the memorable events in Mr. Van Dijk’s eight year career was the baptizing of a new tulip variety named after former Polish first lady Maria Kaczyńska. It was presented to her in 2008 and thanks to this creamy coloured tulip, her name and spirit will live on forever. It took grower Jan Ligthart 18 years to cultivate this flower.
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RONALD SMIT
TAPESTRY INSIDE AND OUT where engraved double-glazed windows on all corners of the building form an attractive and artistic finishing touch. The magnificent stairs directly behind the high wooden entrance door, another wink to van Gameren, are reminescent of the luxury entrance of palaces from the seventeenth and eighteenth century. Just like in those old palaces, if one looks up there is a stunning ceiling decoration. But with a nod to modernity, we are treated to an oversized photo display by the photographer Erwin Olaf. For the rest, the interior breathes high tech. Lots of glass, bare concrete walls, easy to separate spaces to host parties or meetings. It could be a futuristic research facility from the year 2150, but still radiates a definite human friendliness. Belgian tapestry wall hangings are world renown (see above at the embassy). But a lesser As said before, probably the biggest known Belgian tradition is the making of flower tapestries. One of the fondest memories of eye-catcher of the Dutch embassy is its the staff at the Embassy was the day in August 2008 when the dull grass field in front of the great fence. According to Van Dijk it was embassy was transformed into a colorful display of classic flower patterns. A glimpse from not planned in the original design to the past, once again. have the building fenced, but that changed after the attacks of 9/11. In actuality, the fence fits perfectly well. this darkness from the past, since the No wonder in 2005 the building won the Embassy resembles a residence of the splendid building radiates dignity and first prize in the prestigious architectural Belgian royal family. However splendid the 18th century blue blood. The palace rose from the competition Życie w Architekturze palace looks now, it lay completely in ashes thanks to a deal between Poland (‘Living with Architecture’). ruins after the Second World War. It was and Belgium, where the Belgians bombed by the Germans in revenge, as agreed to renovate the building in return Classy classic for a long term lease. The Belgian A little further away from the traditional in those days the building housed a hospital where, among others, government thought this was a good embassy strip of Warsaw, we find the wounded soldiers of the Warsaw deal. Rebuilding commenced in 1959 Belgian representation in Poland. Uprising were treated. Only the thick and in 1962 the Belgians moved into With impressive columns walled cellars remained after the war. their new embassy. overshadowing its entrance and bright Nowadays one could not imagine all white coloured façade, the Belgium A little Chopin gossip First Secretary Antoine Misonne and Consul Leo Cortens give us a tour. Downstairs are just the regular offices, but already here a visitor gets impressed by the style and dignity of the spacious (especially in the matter of height) working quarters. From the Consul, we hear that in the past the embassy building was the place to be for the latest in music. It was the home base for a musical ensemble and rumors have it that Chopin played there just before he left Poland for a lifelong exile in Paris. The main feature of the building is probably the classic stairs curving upwards. At the first floor we find the real palace atmosphere, the office of Ambassador Raoul Delcorde looks like a museum. Also the ‘modest’ guest room with classic furniture and – of course – a piano leaves an everlasting FITTING FOR CHOPIN impression on visitors, c’est magnifique!
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RONALD SMIT
BEHIND THE DOORS
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LIFE AFTER VODKA
BY KIT F. CHUNG ROBERTO GALEA
Kit F. Chung talked to the man who is shaping the cultural identity of Praga’s Koneser Vodka Factory
J
anusz Owsiany wants you. He wants you to leave the cushy left bank of Warsaw to play in Praga and give it a leg up. This historically rich district survived the war with minimum artillery scratchings, only to be thoroughly wrecked by neglect in the decades that followed WWII. Number Crunching Praga isn’t the problem child it once was. Artsy people have been swarming in to set up nests in the derelict tenement buildings. Frequenting bars in the dodgey courtyards is becoming a point-scorer. Plus it’s putting together the turf that will host the opening match of the UEFA Euro Cup 2012. So, you would think Praga has a solid leg to stand on. But that’s not what the numbers say. “Only 2% of visitors to Warsaw come to see Praga. We have been defamed by guidebooks as a place with plenty of criminals,” said the charismatic silveredhair Praga-enthusiast. Before life as an urban conservationist, Owsiany was a designer of bottles. The slim, frosty Belvedere vodka vessel you see in bars and clubs is one of his many pride and joys. Now the President of the Stowarzyszenie Monopol Warszawski, an NGO, he looks out for the well being of Praga, and in particular, that of the defunct Koneser Vodka Factory. Crime figure distortions aside, Janusz conceded that Praga lacks a good-sized historical building to crank up the visitor number. He believed that the Koneser plant, if properly revitalised, could be the crowd-puller. Change Factory This 5-hectare redbrick 19th century liquor facility came into being when
www.teatrwytwornia.pl For more on Praga, see Hilary Heuler’s article on strolling the streets on p. 20.
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Warsaw was an outpost of the Russian Empire. The pay package for the 100,000 Russian soldiers garrisoned here included a daily litre of vodka per person, churned out by the factory. The liquid kept flowing during Nazi occupation and the post-war period. When capitalism moved in, Koneser ran up a staggering debt of zl.52 million, forcing production to halt some years ago. The debt also made it hard to find investors with deep pockets. Janusz had feared that cost-conscious, rather than heritage-conscious, new owners would raze the complex down. He wanted it to become a cultural center. He got half of his wish. BBI Development, the investor, has put on paper the plans for an estate fit for work, play, shop, eat and sleep. New office and residential buildings, with matching bricks and style, will stand along side the original, spruced up oldies. In this plan, Janusz is tasked with maintaining the cultural elements. Teatr Wytwórnia will have a part in the new scheme. This theatre has been running for 5 years in one of the peripheral buildings. The stage is for debutant actors, directors, dancers and scriptwriters.
“It’s a place for young people to have somewhere to start,” Januesz said, “For their first contact with the audience and media. A place to learn and make mistakes.” Vodka’s out, Wine’s In The factory is still on a look out for a restaurateur. Though an accomplished designer of liquor bottles, Janusz is a wine-lover. He believes that they have the ideal setting for a warehouse-cum-postindustrial styled setup. The building earmarked as for wining and dining has a basement with parallel rows of metal columns, imparting a distinct industrial mood. “Wine is a living product. You must take care of how it is stored. Especially with Poland’s winters, you need a plus Celsius storage place,” he said, adding that the basement is a natural habitat for reds and whites. After a slow start, renovation is now underway to doll up the guardhouse. Fans of derelict industrial grounds should do what Janusz wants – hop over to see the facility before the heavyduty machinery moves in. (KC)
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EATING OUT THIS MONTH:
Restaurants
15 updates! *
SECTIONS Cafés & Tea Rooms . . . . p.29 Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . p.34 African . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .p. 52 American & Tex-Mex . . . p.44 Asian & Indian . . . . . . . . p.49 Balkan & Russian . . . . . p.46 French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 43 Kosher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .p. 46
RATINGS Greek/Middle Eastern . . p.46 International & Fusion . p.40 Italian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.44 Japanese & Sushi . . . . . p. 51 Latin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 47 Polish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 35 Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 52
The following categories are a rough indication of how much two main courses and an average bottle of wine will cost. $ $$ $$$ $$$$
under zł.100 zł.100-200 zł.200-350 zł.350 and up
(A1) map location
ideal for business meetings take a date non smoking area child friendly vegetarian friendly delivery breakfast menu outdoor area BOW 2009 Best of Warsaw Award Winner
Cu r r e n t issu e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t ob e r 2 0 1 0. www.warsawinsider.pl
Insider’s Pick HOT FIND
Pod Samsonem ul. Freta 3-5, tel. 22 832-1788 Open daily 10:00-23:00 www.podsamsonem.pl
ALEKSANDRA M. HERBICH
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“Despite the Disneyland locale, this is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space…”
od Samsonem fills a gap in the dining scene of the Old and New Towns precisely because it has no ambitions to be froufrou. There isn’t any pièce de résistance floral arrangement. Instead, the tables sport napkin holders with the logo of “Społem” (a restaurant collective that pre-dates Communism, but since it was operational during the post-war period, most people regard it as an evil symbol of the bad guys). The wait staff doesn’t serenade, fawn nor look down their noses at you. And they certainly don’t chop steak tartare at the table. The menu doesn’t offer deconstructed pierogi nor flaunt heritage ingredients. What they have is an extensive repertoire of traditional Polish food that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. They pitch themselves as a Jewish establishment, but the bulk of the menu is routine Polish. What comes out of the kitchen are dishes I am perfectly happy to feed to my family and friends. Everything is reasonably priced and in fact, dirt cheap, given its prime location. Despite the Disneyland locale, this is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. And that’s hard to come by, especially in the Old City, where most establishments are out to dazzle not only your taste buds but also overload all your other sensory receptors. However, Pod Samsonem can’t shake off its infamy. Founded in the late 1950’s, the previous set of waiters was well versed in the art of brusque service. Now, while the crew is a new generation and a mixed batch of ‘ready-with-a-smile’ as well as the ‘I-don’t-do-smile’ types, the old reputation clings on. And since they sell tea for zł.3, pork cutlet dinners for zł.20, grilled whole trout with potatoes and very fresh salad for zł.20, it would be galling to complain about the slow delivery. The Sunday we dropped in, we found the tables quickly snapped up the moment they were cleared. The diners, made up of locals and tourists, were in slow-motion with the meals and prolonged the dessert and coffee time with animated chitchats. It had the buzz of merry dining which is so missing from most restaurants in Warsaw. (KC) >>
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INDEX
Centrum Akashia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Ale Gloria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Amber Room . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Amigos American Steakhouse 48Angelo . 40 Antrakt. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Arsenał . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Art Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Atrio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Babalu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Bacio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Bar Balbinka. . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Batida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Besuto Sushi Bar . . . . . . . . 51 BilyKonicek Café . . . . . . . . 29 Bistro Babooshka . . . . . . . 46 Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Bistro Przekąski Zakąski. . 35 Blikle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Bliss Restaurant. . . . . . . . . 49 Blue Cactus . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 BookhouseCafé . . . . . . . . . 29 Bollywood Lounge. . . . . . . 49 Bordo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Buddha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 C.K. Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 C.K. Oberża. . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Café 6/12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Balgera . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Colombia . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Kredens . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Café Lemon. . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Vincent . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Caffetino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Canton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Cava. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Cesarski Pałac . . . . . . . . . . 49
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Champions Sports Bar . . . 48 Chianti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Chłodna 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Chłopskie Jadło . . . . . . . . . 36 Coffee Karma . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Coffeeshop Company . . . . 30 Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia . . . 30 Czuły Barbarzyńca. . . . . . . 30 Dekanta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Deco Kredens. . . . . . . . . . . 40 Delicja Polska. . . . . . . . . . . 36 Delikatesy Gessler. . . . . . . 30 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Dyspensa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Dżonka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 El Popo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Essencia Smaku. . . . . . . . . 34 Fish & Chips . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Flora Caffe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Folk Gospoda . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Frida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Fusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Galeria Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Galeria Zadra . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Ganesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Gar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Ginger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie. . 36 Hard Rock Cafe. . . . . . . . . . 48 Hana Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Herezja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Inaba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 India Curry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Inside Restaurant . . . . . . . 40 Inn Under the Red Hog. . . 36 Izumi Sake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Izumi Sushi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Jazz Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Jazz Bistro Espresso. . . . . . 31 Jung & Lecker . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Kafka Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
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Kaiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Kawiarnia Ogrody. . . . . . . . 31 Kawka Bar Kawowy . . . . . . 31 Kiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Kolonia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 KOM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 La Cantina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 La Fiesta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 La Passion du Vin . . . . . . . 34 Latino Brasserie . . . . . . . . . 47 Lemongrass . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Le Petite France . . . . . . . . . 43 Likus Concept . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Literacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Lokanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Magazyn Butelek . . . . . . . 34 Maharaja India. . . . . . . . . . 50 Maharaja Thai . . . . . . . . . . 50 Mandala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Mała Gruzja . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Mała Serbia . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Marconi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Mela Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 The Mexican . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Meza Restaurant . . . . . . . . 41 Michel's Brasserie . . . . . . . 41 Między Nami Café . . . . . . . 31 Mille Gusti. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Naleśnikarnia. . . . . . . . . . . 36 Nine Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Nowa La Boheme . . . . . . . 36 Nowy Wspaniały Świat . . . 31 The Olive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 The Oriental . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Opium Pleasure Lounge . . 51 Osteria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Oto Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Papaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Parmizzano’s . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Pekin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Pędzący Królik . . . . . . . . . . 34
Piccola Italia . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Pizzeria na Barskiej . . . . . . 45 Pizzeria na Nowolipkach . 45 The Place. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Tobaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Papryka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Pod Gigantami . . . . . . . . . . 36 Poezja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Polskie Smaki. . . . . . . . . . . 36 Prowansja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Qchnia Artystyczna . . . . . . 42 Quattro Canti Trattoria. . . . 45 Restauracja Pod Gigantami . . . . . . . . 36 Restauracja Studio Buffo . 42 Restauracja Warszawska . 39 Restaurant 99. . . . . . . . . . . 42 Restaurant Strauss . . . . . . 42 Rialto’s Restaurant . . . . . . 39 Ristorante Il Sole . . . . . . . . 45 Ristorante San Lorenzo. . . 45 Roma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Royal India. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 R20 Rozbrat 20 . . . . . . . . . 42 Rusticoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Sakana Sushi Bar . . . . . . . 52 Sense. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Shilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Shlomos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Sketch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Sklep z Kanapkami . . . . . . 34 Słodki... Słony.... . . . . . . . . 34 So-an Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sofa Clubistro. . . . . . . . . . . 43 Someplace Else . . . . . . . . . 49 Smaki Warszawy . . . . . . . . 39 St. Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Studio Buffo . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Sushi 77. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sushi Teatr . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sushi Zushi. . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Sunanta Thai. . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Suparom Thai . . . . . . . . . . . 51 T.G.I Friday's . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Tapa y Toro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Tapas Bar Casa To Tu. . . . . 47 Taqueria Mexicana . . . . . . 47 Tien-Tien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 The Place. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Toan Pho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Tobaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Tok Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Tomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 U Kucharek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 U Kucharzy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 U Szwejka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Venti Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Vespa Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Villa Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Vinobilia w Rogatce . . . . . 35 Vinoteka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Warsaw Tortilla Factory. . . 48 Winokracja . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Ye Goode Foode. . . . . . . . . 43 You & Me Bar . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Zen Jazz Bistro . . . . . . . . . . 43
Old Town – Stare Miasto Bellini. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Enoteka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Freta 33 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Giovanni Rubino . . . . . . . . 44 Gospoda pod Kogutem . . 36 Honoratka. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka . . 41 Jazzownia Liberalna. . . . . . 41 La Rotisserie . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Namaste India . . . . . . . . . . 50 Nomia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
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INDEX Pierogarnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Polka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Podwale Piwna Kompania 36 Restauracja Staromiejska 38 Same Fusy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 To Lubię. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 U Fukiera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Mokotów Argentine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Banja Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Belvedere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Dziki Ryż . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Flik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Herba Thea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Jeff's. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Karczma Słupska. . . . . . . . 36 Little India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Merliniego 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Mood Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Papu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Portucale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Q-Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Restauracja “Różana”. . . . 38 Restauracja “Tradycja” . . . 38 Ristorante Balgera . . . . . . . 45 Roma Bukieteria . . . . . . . . 45 Samira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Stary Dom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Vapiano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Venti Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Zielnik Café. . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Żużu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Ochota Hong Kong House . . . . . . . 50 Filtry Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Grand Kredens. . . . . . . . . . 36 Melterni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Nonsolopizza . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Piccola Italia . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Prima Vera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Va Bene Ristorante . . . . . . 46 Vera Italia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
cafés & tea rooms Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827-6411. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Quirky café full of antiques and theatre props by the Grand Operahouse. Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826-4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18. www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 09:00-21:00. A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles. $ BilyKonicek Cafe (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490-846. Open daily 09:00-20:00 Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and homebaked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite to eat on a rainy day. $ Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826-6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 09:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods. $$ Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826-8559. Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in bookish interior. $
Saska Kępa & Praga Arti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Babalu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Bar Turecki “Efes” . . . . . . . 46 Boathouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Café Baobab. . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Café Melon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Café Rue de Paris. . . . . . . . 29 Dom Polski . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Fabryka Trzciny. . . . . . . . . . 40 Francuska 30. . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Il Caminetto . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Kępa Café . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Le Petite France . . . . . . . . . 43 La Strada. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Le Cedre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Papryka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Passe Partout . . . . . . . . . . . 42 PastaCafé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Porto Praga . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Santorini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Takeda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Trattoria Rucola . . . . . . . . . 46 Yoko Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Wilanów & Ursynów Butla Wine Bar & Store. . . 34 Castello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Zorba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Ganesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Garaż Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Giancarlo Ristorante . . . . . 44 Gugo Sushi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Quattro Canti Trattoria. . . . 45 Restauracja “Pod Łaciatym Bobrem” . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Restauracja Staroświecka 38 Rimini Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Sapori d’Italia. . . . . . . . . . . 46 Shilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 TUTU Music Bar . . . . . . . . . 34 Villa Nuova . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Guccio Domagoj . . . . . . . . 34 Kalimba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Mielżyński Wine Bar . . . . . 34 Pepperoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Spotkanie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Zaułek Smaków – Winiaria Portius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Żywiciel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Outskirts Gospoda Kampinówka. . . 36 Gościniec Kołomyja. . . . . . 36 Home Africa Bar. . . . . . . . . 52 Oregano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Pomidoro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Sayam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Siwy Dym . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Willa Borówka . . . . . . . . . . 44 Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Złoty Strug Inn and Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . 39
chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display. Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale. $
Bordo (D4) ul. Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826-0171; ul. Nowy Świat 5, tel. 22 622-0068, www.bordo.com.pl. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00 Casual, fun and affordable first-date spot or a place to meet up with a big group of friends over good trattoria classics. Nowy Świat location is slightly snazzier. $ Cafe 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622-5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Try the great teas and vitamin drinks that are packed with a punch, all aiming at keeping you healthy and balanced. Being healthy has never tasted so good – if you can ignore the fug of cigarette smoke. $
Cafe Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620-3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. This cozy café is located on a charmingly run-down street of pre-war Warsaw. Simple and chic, it’s the perfect spot for one of the best cups of coffee in the city, home-made desserts and sandwiches, house wine and beer any time of day or night. $$ Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617-8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 08:0021:00, Sat- Sun 07:30-22:00. A favourite Rendez-vous spot for all the French-speaking folk dwelling the area. $
Café Colombia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 628 0226 www.cafecolombia.eu. Open daily 7:00-23:00 The ambiance blends exotic elements with a tempered Colonial backdrop. Serves finegrade Columbian coffee, along with some scrumptious desserts and other café fare. $ Café Lemon Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 6 , tel. 22 829-5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24h. A large selection of salads, pastas and snacks. Everybody can find something suitable for their tastes. Once you’re done with your meal, you can go downstairs to party further. Cafe Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00. This
Żoliborz
Cafe Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828-0115. Open daily 06:30-24:00 A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from savory croissants to delicate brioches and almond croissants. $$ Caffé Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629-0189. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00, www.balgera.pl. The breakfast menu here is
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long. $ Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624-0196. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts. $ Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826-6427, mob. 603-952-363. Open Mon-Fri 09:0024:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 09:0022:00; Sun 09:00-21:00. www.cava.pl. Providing stiff competition for all the other cafés in the area, Cava offers a wide selection of coffees including the premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. $$ Chłodna “25” (B3) ul. Żelazna 75a/Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620-2413,
www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in the Wola district, the last bastion of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła, Chłodna 25 is a fabulous combination of café and club. Friendly, laid-back and as civilised as an artist’s loft: a firm Insider favourite. $
Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584-7101. Open daily 09:00-23. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcoloured and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit anytime of day. $$
Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875-8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 07:3022:00, Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. A very laid-back café, without the string of poseurs occupying other cafés in the center. Mostly friendly staff and excellent coffee. $
Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826-3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A very charming bookstore and a café in one. $
Coffeeshop Company (B3) Centrum Handlowe Wola Park, mob. 666-020103, www.coffeeshopcompany.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00. This coffeeshop is part of a Viennese franchise with shops around the world. The Warsaw location offers a warm ambiance, big mugs and hot coffee guaranteed. Plus a good selection of sandwiches and cookies. $
Delikatesy Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826-7936, www.gessler.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00, Sat 9:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes, and pastries at shockingly low prices, despite the premium location. $ Filtry Cafe (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl, Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great
Drop by to ta ste o ur new menu
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Al. Jana Pawła II 23, 00-854 Warsaw, phone.: +48 22 620 1999
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www.restaurant99.com
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coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers. $ Flora Caffe Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232-642. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather. $ Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. $ Garaż Cafe (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858-2693, www.garazcafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30, Sat 13:00-21:30, Sun 13:00-17:30. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up. Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825-8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends. $ Jazz Bistro Espresso (D5) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627-4151, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 10:0024:00. For those familiar with the Jazz Bistro chain, this non-smoking new venture offers the same menu, with the cosiness of a café. $ Kafka Cafe (E3) ul. Obożna 3, tel. 22 826-0822. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0022:00. This arty coffeehouse on the backstreets of the University is much more than just your typical student café. The bright interiors and fully-stocked bookshelves make this place a firm favourite with beatniks of any age. $ BOW 2009 “Best Café” Winner. Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869-9784, mob. 502 669-376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:0020:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids. $
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CAFÉS Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826-2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0022:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge! Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621-6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 09:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 09:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting. $ Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616-1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz. $ Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kidfriendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials. Między Nami Cafe (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828-5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. This is a hot spot at all hours of the day and night, but it’s not so hot if you dislike cigarette smoke, noise and crowds – all at the same time. $ Mood Cafe (D10) al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898-3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00. Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must! $ Nowy Wspaniały Świat ul. Świętokrzyska 63, tel. 22 826-5803 www.krytykapolityczna.pl. Open daily 9:00-last guest. This café-cum-bar near the University offers homestyle zł.15 lunch specials every day of the week. The cool artsy vibe makes it a must day or evening. $
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Sponsored Feature
TRICK OR TREATING AT THE BELVEDERE
BY JESSICA SAVAGE-HANFORD
Chef Komar treats the Insider’s Jessica SavageHanford to some special Halloween dishes elvedere’s Head Chef, Adam Komar has just brought me a selection of pumpkins. There are orange ones, yellow, green; some are small and pear-shaped, others large and rotund. We’ve been discussing Halloween and what the Łazienki-based restaurant has planned for October’s menu. Adam is keen to stress Belvedere’s new themed brunch initiative; I am adamant about my pumpkins. The amicable chef kindly relents and suggests the following seasonal recipees for Insider readers: a special pumpkin soup, venison with pumpkin garnish. I then take the opportunity to sample one of the restaurant’s staple desserts: a to-die-for blend of white chocolate mousse, infused with żubrówka. Being particularly fond of a certain cocktail of żubrówka and apple juice; this last inclusion I find particularly delicious. As it is, the recipe is a Belvedere novelty, meaning that the place has now set near-impossible standards as to my dessert-quality expectations across the city. I can only lament the fate of the next establishment’s chocolates and ices that I set out to sample… In addition to my newly-discovered desert fetish, is Belvedere’s own newlydiscovered Head Chef. A Warsaw-native, Komar’s culinary excursions mean that he’s well-travelled, having worked in both Australia and Hong Kong, prior to his appointment at Belvedere. Having started as Head Chef in May, it’s this experience abroad that he hopes to bring to the table, with many plans for future creations. Warsaw’s reputable restaurant currently has two menus: one ‘Polish,’ based on the menu originally created for King Poniatowski in 1765; the other ‘international’ with a fusion of ‘foreign’ flavours. The brunches, Komar tells me, are a new initiative. They happen once a
B
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week, cater to around 150 guests and have chefs grill game in front of a crowd of eager diners, situated in the glass conservatory outside. It is the creativity that cooking brings which Komar values most, however. He plans to use his tenure as cook to introduce as many inspired dishes as possible. When I inquire as to advice for my own gastronomic adventures, he is keen to stress authenticity; throw out the chemical ingredients, don’t take the easy short cuts and get back to being inspired by fresh foods first-hand (all of Belvedere’s produce arrives fresh, mainly from the Mazury lake-lands as well as from abroad). Also present is Katarzyna Starzyńska, the restaurant’s director. Embarking on her third year at Belvedere, she explains how she was keen to change the kind of environment that Belvedere once catered to. She wants to bring about a more open and welcoming atmosphere for her clientele, with an increasingly laid-back feel – in spite of the lavish settings. The increasing quality of the food is also something she wishes to continue
Serves four Ingredients: Saddle of Venison – 800 g Fresh thyme – 5 g Fresh rosmary – 5 g Fresh marjoram – 10 g Garlic – 5 g Oil – 50 g Butter – 25 g Olive oil – 25 ml Pumpkin – 250 g Zucchini – 200 g Tomatoes – 200 g “Demi Glace” brew – 500 ml Żubrówka vodka – 50 ml Butter – 25 g Wheat Flour – 25 g Salt and pepper to taste Preparation: Rinse the saddle of venison, dry. Wrap the meat in fresh rosemary and
HEAD CHEF, ADAM KOMAR
through the restaurant’s joint catering initiative. This aims to provide private parties with the same quality food as visitors to the restaurant itself. Above all, however, it is the unique menu that Komar and Starzyńska are keen to stress. Here are dishes that you can’t get in other restaurants, that look as delicious on the plate, as they taste on the tongue – Komar has a knack for creating both. Having received his training in Warsaw, a decade’s worth of traveling has now brought the young chef back to his home city, where he has yet to leave his mark. But if my experiences at Belvedere are anything to go by, I can safely say that he is well on his way.
thyme: place in the fridge. Peel the pumpkin, cut into slices (2cm by 2cm) sauté in butter on low gas until it’s soft. Add a chopped clove of garlic and fresh marjoram. Season with salt and pepper. Slice the zucchini length-wise, sauté in olive oil until it becomes soft. Drop tomatoes in a pot of boiling water to loosen skins. Peel the skin, deseed, cut up the pulp. Add sliced tomatoes to the zucchini, season. Boil the “demi glace” brew, until it evaporates to half its original size, add the żubrówka; bring to boil, season; knead the butter and flour and add to the sauce in small amounts to thicken it. Remove the fresh herbs from the saddle of venison; heat the oil on a frying pan and fry the meat on all sides until it turns golden. Place into a pre-heated oven and cook for around 10 mins, at 170°C. Serve sliced.
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BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
ROBERTO GALEA
Pumpkin Soup Serves four Ingredients: Pumpkin – 300 g Carrots – 50 g Celery – 50 g Onion – 50 g Fresh garlic – 10 g Olive oil – 25 g Butter – 25 g Stock – 1000 g Young spinach leaves – 40 g Oscypek cheese – 65 g Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation: Rinse the vegetables, peel and wash. Slice the carrots, celery and onion and sauté in olive oil, add sliced pumpkin and continue cooking for approximately 10 mins. Add garlic and briefly sauté; add the stock and butter. Cook until the pumpkin begins to disintegrate; blend to liquify. Serve the soup on a plate decorated with leaves of spinach and plasters of cheese.
ROBERTO GALEA
ROBERTO GALEA
WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
Saddle of Venison with Pumpkin, Zucchini with Concassé Tomatoes and Żubrówka Sauce
ul. Agrykoli 1 (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558-6700 mob. 606 102-002 www.belvedere.com.pl restauracja@belvedere.com.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest.
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826-0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theatre Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service. $$
TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 22 2513274, www.tutu.waw.pl. Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davies recorded in the 80s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak. $
Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635-9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. A must for café-junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from. $
Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825-5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00. A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office. $
Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00, upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. Offers a good selection of simple salads, pastas and mains at reasonable prices. The international spread of beers is impressive, although rather pricey of you’re doing rounds so better stick to the local draught. $
Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00 This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls. $$
Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods. $ Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622-4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00. Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Desserts” Winner. To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635-9023. Open daily 10:00-22:00, www.tolubie.pl. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended! $ Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621-7799. Open daily 07:00-22:00, www.tokcafe.pl Perfect music for Monday mornings. Plus, great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouth-watering selection of goodies for your sugar fix. $
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wine bars Butla Wine Bar & Store ul.Cynamonowa 33, tel. 22 641-5123 www.butla.com.pl. This little wine bar near Imielin metro station caters for all kinds of wine drinkers: beginners and oenophiles alike. The staff is knowledgeable and can help with navigating the comprehensive wine menu. C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826-8317, www.ckobozna.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest, Sat 10:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł.9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond. $-$$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831-3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00midnight, Sun 13:00-17:00 Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. Lovely patio in spring and summer. $-$$ BOW 2009 “Best Newcomer” Winner.
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Esencja Smaku ul. Odolańska 10 (off ul. Puławska, 8 mins walk away from Metro Raławicka), tel. 22 845-0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro
characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392-7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00–22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced. $-$$ Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866-6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul.Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, caféstyle chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. KOM (C3) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338-6353, www.komunikat.net Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00 Sat 12:00-23:00 A fine selection of top wines from around the world complemented by a fusion menu in art deco style. $$ La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222-0495, www.winnica.pl, Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine. Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412-3124. Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties. $$
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Merliniego 5 Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646-0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636-8709. www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00
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Vinobilia w Rogatce (E7) Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, tel 022 423-4904, www.vinobilia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-21:00. Run by Frenchmen and set in a pre-war building. Choose among 12 different varieties of wine from all over France and nibbles. $$ Vinoteka 13 (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492-7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sunday 11:0017:00. This premium wine shop and expansive bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from France, Austria, Spain and Italy, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. $-$$$
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(the kitchen closes at 23:00). Mielżyński’s is without a doubt one of the best wine bars and tapas-style restaurants in the city. It combines the finest wines with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu. $$
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Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625-4197. Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, Sun 14:00last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe. $-$$
Bagatela (E7) ul. Bagatela 12, tel. 22 625-2245. Open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu & Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. Welcome to the Polish 70s. Located in the basement of the Polish Information Agency, the interior could do with a new look. The food, however, is pretty good. $$
Winokracja (B2) ul. Karmelicka 19, www.winokracja.com, tel. 22 838-9015. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00. The interior is rather low-key, but the great selection of Italian and Spanish wines more than makes up for it. A free wine tasting is held a few times a month.
Belvedere Restaurant (F8) The Orangery in Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1 (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558-6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Its brilliant location, beautiful décor set in a gorgeous array of greenery, courteous service along with the impeccable presentation and succulent flavours of every dish, all of it proves that Polish restaurants can compete with the best of Europe. $$$ BOW 2009 “Best European Cusine” Winner
polish Ale Gloria (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584-7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The affluent decor isn’t the only thing this restaurant has to offer. Aromatic, satiable tradional dishes with a contemporary twist, such as the duck breast in rose sauce, will keep you coming back for more. $$$
Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24h. The convenient location, the inexpensive food served 24/7, and the laidback atmosphere is what gave Przekąski Zakąski a cult status among the hip crowd. $
GaleriaFreta Caffe & Restaurant • concerts, shows, events • coffee, deserts, cocktails, international cuisine we gladly cooperate with artists and promoters
00-227 Warsaw Freta 39 New town Square (22) 831-02-35 www.galeriafreta.pl
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339-1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827-0351. Open daily from noon to midnight. A quick-stop spot for Polish classic, like bigos and pierogi. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622-4594. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $-$$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 8264770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 6162432, www.rest auracjadompolski.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The restaurant is elegant, and surely too pricey to be a regular dining-out location, unless you’re on an expense account. Nonetheless, it charms with a special family atmosphere. $$$ Sunday family lunch: 12:00-17:00. Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629-9989, restauracja.dyspensa@gmail.com, www.dyspensa.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. The menu in this homey, elegant restaurant comprises fine traditional Polish fare with foreign influences and boasts an excellent reputation in terms of both cuisine delectability and service. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890-1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open daily 12:00midnight. With the traditional décor, highlighted by stone and wood additions, this folky attraction pulls in the crowds. $$ Gospoda Kampinówka ul. Tetmajera 38, 05-080 Izabelin, tel. 22 721-8354, www.salmix.pl. Open MonFri 10:00-21:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. Located in the heart of Kampinoski National Park (very close to Warsaw), it offers Polish meals prepared according to old traditional recipes, with an emphasis on venison, fowl and wild boar with smoked bacon. $$
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Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887-6520 gospodakwiatypolskie@o2.pl. Open daily 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and very big portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka are highly recommended. $$ Gospoda pod Kogutem (C1) ul. Freta 48, tel. 22 635-8282, www.gospodapodkogutem.com. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 11:00-24:00. Great pyzy ze skwarkami and more sophisticated Polish dishes, guaranteed to please both the fully matured expat and the culinarily nostalgic Pole. $$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Gościniec Kołomyja (Konstancin) Al. Od Lasu 23, tel.22 754-0594, www.kolomyja.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. A bucolic cottage with a menu of Polish specialities and attractions for kids on weekends. $ Grand Kredens (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629-8008. www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635-0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests. Now Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850-3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Red-stone walls, wooden floors, red curtains everywhere and big family-friendly wooden tables give the place a warm, festive air. It has a distinct past and, during the last century, rose to fame based on tales of eminent communist leaders ditching an official event of the Party to dine here. $$ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841-4552. Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $
Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635-8995. Open daily 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Soup and main for zł.19. Naleśnikarnia (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel. 22 826-8948. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00. A great variety of wholesome and filling pancakes, for main course and dessert. Great location, and sidewalk tables for the warm days. Nowa La Boheme (D2) Plac Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692-0681, www.laboheme.com.pl Open daily 12:00last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental. Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828-0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open daily 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland. Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Rustic fare and the best draught Pilsner Urquell in town draws publicity to this lively but cosy setting. Booking ahead is recommended. $$ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open daily 12:00–23:00 Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Polskie Smaki (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 826-5967. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This is Polish food as it should be – traditional. The popular oscypek also finds its way into the selections. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629-2312, www.podgigantami.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$$
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Restauracja “Pod Łaciatym Bobrem” Al. KEN 83, tel. 22 855-5676, ww.podlaciatymbobrem.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-21:00. A hidden gem of a small neighbourhood restaurant serving exquisite and satiable Polish classics at great prices. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848-1225 Open daily 12:00-last guest. Różana’s Empirestyle decor and traditional Polish cuisine make every meal at this gorgeous pre-war villa memorable. Excellent wines and arguably the
best dining in the city, from the farmhouse duck to the deer saddle filet – each cooked to perfection and unbelievably tender. $$ Restauracja Polska “Tradycja” (E8) ul. Belwederska 18a, tel. 22 840-0901, www.restauracjatradycja.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. Situated in a large villa surrounded by lush trees and potted plants, offering wellknown Polish delicacies – all tasty and beautifully presented. $$ Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square,
HOT FIND
COURTESY OF WŁOSKA ROBOTA
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Restauracja Staroświecka (multiple locations) al. KEN 54, tel. 22 436-5868, ul. Migdałowa 4, tel. 513 095 457, www.staroswiecka.pl Open daily 10:00-23:00, breakfast until 12:00.
Włoska Robota (The Italian Job) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463 Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00
F
“Our finale is an uncomplicated but delectable panna cotta, while the table next to us gushes that the tiramisu is ‘the best in the world’…”
www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831-0259. Open daily from 10:00midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$$
orty-four percent of Poles like to munch on pizza when eating out. This is not a statistic based on airy science, but hard fact from a survey on Poles’ eating habits conducted by GfK Polonia for the Polish daily Rzeczpospolita. So it might not be surprising that yet another pizzeria joint is tempting the Polish palates. Wloska Robota is squirreled away in Park Szczesliwicki in Ochota. The park houses an artificial ski slope which, in theory, can be used all year round, but in practice has capricious operating hours. The Italian restaurant however, located on the viewing terrace of the ski slope, can be relied upon to to keep to its stipulated business hours. While this storefront has seen a series of eateries come and go, Wloska Robota looks willing and determined to stay. “Real Italian food,” beams head chef Espito Nello, who is also a genuine article hailing from Naples. The menu is a cookie-cutter range of pizza (Toscana, Milano, Roma, etc.) with the usual range of toppings (olives, mozzarella, corn, capers, etc.) on a thin crust. The house recommendation is the Parma and Parmesan topping (zł. 26). My son’s Campagnola fared very well. However, if you’re after baked dough, the “panuozzo” sandwiches (zł. 15) are the winners. Be prepared to wait since each oblong loaf with a puffed-up crispy dome is made-to-order using caputo flour which, the chef explained, is an ingredient imported from his region in Italy. I can have these for lunch everyday. The forte of the establishment is the house-made pasta. Chef Nello personally mans the pasta station. The classical sauces (Carbonara, Bolognese, etc.) are featured but the top marks goes to the spinach pasta (zł. 21). There are some meat dishes but we haven’t yet sampled those. The very quaffable Italian white wine is zł. 9 per glass. Our finale is an uncomplicated but delectable panna cotta (zł. 12), while the table next to us gushes that the tiramisu is “the best in the world.” The intimate interior is neither rustic nor modern but a welcoming cross between the two which plays on pairing different shades of the Italian flag. There’s only five tables, and each has five funky modern chairs with green or red plexiglass backs. Grab the sofa corner if you want food served on a low coffee table. Plenty of natural light streams in through the glass walls that offer views of the green astroturf of the ski slope. Music is whatever Radio Eska is piping, accompanied by the crackles and pops from the wood-fired oven. The overall package is exactly what you need when you’re after Italian classics – lowkey (but not low brow), friendly staff, unfussy and 100% pleasant. (KC) $
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Halfway between Imielin and Natolin metro stations, it’s easy to reach. The home-made food and wooden indoor make this restaurant a perfect place to spend time with friends. $ Restauracja Warszawska (E6) ul. Chopina 5a, tel. 22 628-8140, www.restauracjawarszawska.pl. Open daily. 12:00-last guest. Quite a mixed experience: the chicken liver salad was a delight but the zł.125 roast-suckling pig was more than disappointing… $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73, The Rialto Boutique Hotel, tel. 22 584-8771. Open Mon-Fri 06:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 07:00-22:30. The service is exceptional and all is reasonably priced. In the evenings, the menu is varied, delectable and fantastic. More than worth every złoty. Siwy Dym (Piaseczno) ul. Puławska 378 tel. 22 644-5000, www.siwydym.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. This homey restaurant promises a meal with a taste of regional Polish flavour and prides itself on hearty authenticity. $$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621-8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl Open daily 09:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of delectable pistachio cream cake. $$-$$$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106 tel. 22 646-4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open daily: 12:00-lat guest. A combination of elegance a cozy, family-style vibe. This old-fashioned space will make you feel like you’re in Zakopane. And the authentic Polish food definitely satisfies. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square) tel. 22 831-1013, www.ufukiera.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The ambience is that of an intimate dinner at a stately home – which it very well is: the Fukier townhouse has 500 years of history behind it. $$$ U Kucharek (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7 (entrance at pl. Piłsudzkiego), tel. 22 826-7936. Open daily 12:00 to last guest (the kitchen closes at 24:00). U Kucharzy has expanded with a low-key bistro run by an all-
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POLISH female cooking staff. Excellent pierogies, meat dishes and cakes. Not to mention, a great view of Piłsudski Square. $$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826-7936, www.gessler.pl. This restaurant is basically based on the open-kitchen format, in what formerly served as the Hotel Europejski’s main kitchen and is now a sprawling white tiled dining-room divided up into larger and smaller dining rooms. So, maybe the service is a bit wonky and the wine list a bit weak, but it’s definitely on the Insider’s list of hotspots. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner. U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339-1710, www.uszwejka.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:0024:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Their żurek easily ranks among the best in town. Also serving a variety of good, perfectly spiced meat dishes, including Poland’s famous cabbage-wrapped gołąbki and a white sausage platter. $$ Villa Nuova ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885-1502, www.villanuova.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96 B, tel: 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favourite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the centre, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$ Zielnik Café (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844-3500, www.zielnikcafe.pl Open daily 10:00-23:00. A neighbourhood café and restaurant with an inspired menu. Wooden floors, friendly service and excellent food ensures that this place is often packed. $ Złoty Strug Inn and Restaurant (outskirts) Pluski 104, 11-034 Stawiguda, tel. 89 512-6228, www.zlotystrug.com.pl. A country house 2 hours away from Warsaw stocked with a great home-style restaurant. Delicious traditional Polish dishes like chicken soup, fresh fish, roast rabbit and young cabbage. $$
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international & fusion Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, 022 523-6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The elegant dining room at the Roundtable Business Club is finally open to the public, offering sophisticated interiors, impeccable service and fine dining. $$$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622-4454, www.bacio.pl Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Atrio Restaurant & Bar (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 653-9600, www.atrio.waw.pl Open Mon-Sat 08:00-24:00. A great place to start the day with their amazing breakfasts, but also for lunch and dinner. With its stylish interior and efficient service, they will not disappoint – morning, noon or night. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424-6666, www.babalu.pl. Open daily noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay 29,99 zł / person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 6163331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Great Mediterranean food in a nautical-inspired setting and great wines. Green play area and Sunday brunch deal (zł.129 per person, kids free) with nanny service. $$$ Café Kredens (F6) ul. Przemysłowa 36, tel. 22 625-1578, www.kredens.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Much smaller than its Grand cousin, the café is fitted out to remind you of a Polish grandmother’s cosy, warm flat and serves some really good Polish and international fare. $$$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828-4585, www.ckoberza.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00;Sun 12:00-24:00. Premium wine bar
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serving Central-European cuisine with a variety of meat dishes, featuring Polish, Czech, Hungarian and Austrian specialities. Try the Cesarska Deska Mięs for a carnivorous experience. $$
www.fishandchips.pl. The new chippy in town, that also serves hot cross buns and candies. Upon request, they serve gluten-free food stuffs as well.
Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826-0660, www.kredens.com.pl, decokredens@tlen.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Classy and warm, with a large number of intriguing starters on a menu worth exploring for those with an adventurous spirit. $$$
Flik (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 22 849-4434, www.flik.com.pl. Open daily 12:30-24:00 (the kitchen closes at 22:00). Michelinrecommended but not quite as packed as you’d expect. Pleasant summer garden, prompt service and excellent lamb. $$$$
Downtown Restaurant (C4) InterContinental Warsaw, ul. Emilii Plater 49, level 2, tel. 22 328-8888 Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. On Fridays, the Seafood of the World buffet dinner offers diners an unmatched spread of their favourite treats fresh from the sea. Downtown’s menu features an array of tasty dishes prepared by the InterContinental’s new executive chef Thorsten Hoeck. Langorous Sunday Brunch. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Brunch” Winner Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845-0944. Open daily 11:00-22:00, www.esencjasmaku.pl In a city saturated with sushi, pasta and pierogi, there’s always room for a restaurant that knows and respects its culinary roots, and aims to re-establish the simple sensory pleasures of predominantly local and superlatively fresh seasonal ingredients. $$ Essencia (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98 (Novotel Hotel), tel. 22 596-0120, www.accorhotels.com Open daily 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00. The cuisine is a fine and unique mixture of different sorts, which come – quite literally – in different shapes and sizes. Sip your warm drink from a fancy porcelain setting, while perusing their dessert menu. $$ Fabryka Trzciny Restauracja ul. Otwocka 14, tel. 22 619-1705, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open Mon 12:00-15:00; Tue.-Sun 12:00-24:00 (the kitchen closes at 23:00). A creatively seductive space far away from the hurly-burly of downtown Warsaw and a menu labeling itself as ‘art-industrial’ that blends Polish classics with a contemporary twist. $$
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Fish & Chips ul. koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240-804,
Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635-0931. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices. Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-toceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 4508631. Open Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 07:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. The lunchtime service is efficient (i.e. quick). For the dinner options, get the steak or stirfried black tiger prawns. Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30; buffet for zł.95. $$ Galeria & Restauracja Zadra (C2) ul. Gen. Wł. Andersa 29, tel. 22 831-9668, www.galeriazadra.pl Open daily 11:0024:00. The steak is a succulent and melt-inthe-mouth hunk of beef and creme brulée fans should definitely converge here. $$
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Ganesh ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623-0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open daily 08:30-24:00. Ganesh is a casual eatery that’s a great place for treating family or friends. The menu has over 350 items and takes you from northern to southern India. Ginger ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827-3003, www.ginger.com.pl Open daily 24h. No matter what time a day, Ginger serves food. The menu is very extensive, from breakfast, lunch to soups, pastas and many many more. Try the Ginger Burger, recommended by the friendly staff. Inside Restaurant & Cafe (B2) al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 695 940 535, www.insiderestaurant.pl. Open daily 10:00-21:00 A new location with quality food that’s affordable and tasty. You can feel the freshness of ingredients in every bite you take and the staff is nice, friendly and professional.
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If you’re looking for an international fusion of tastes this is the place for you. Visit their website and you will receive zł.10 off of any order exceeding zł.50 (valid Mon-Fri after 15:00 and Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00). Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627-4151, www.jazzbistro.pl, piekna@jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 10:0024:00. The vibe, service and reasonable pricing should get your mind off things for a few minutes outside work. The omelettes are wonderful for breakfast. $$ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887-8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice $$ Jazzownia Liberalna (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635-3769. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest. Location, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that aren’t mind-blowing. With an edgy interior, live music and tasty affordable food, it’s one of our favourites! $$ Kaiser (D4) ul. Chmielna 24, tel. 22 826-3191. Open daily 12:00-last guest. With a lovely mix of Polish and international dishes (such as huge salads and massive plates of pasta), Kaiser is a sure-fire winner with something to please everyone, though vegetarians may go
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a bit hungry. Service is a tad inattentive, though friendly enough. $$
sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.
La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 5316000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 07:0011:00, 12:00-23:00. The dishes on the menu are works of art which not only look good, but will leave you speechless with gustatory delight. The service is impeccable. $$$ BOW 2009 “Best European Cusine” Winner
Meza Restaurant (A4) Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Center, ul. Grzybowska 63. Open daily 06:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$
Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492-7409. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bathhouse is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramic tiles. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy’ flair. An extensive French and Italian wine selection and creative desserts. $$$
Michel’s Brasserie (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.michel-brasserie.com, Open daily 10:3023:00. Michel Moran takes on international classics, served in simple but sleek interiors with the same Bistro de Paris level of quality. Ideal spot for business lunches – there’s a special lunch menu for zł.44 – a pretty good deal in these parts. $-$$
Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551-1823. Open 7 days a week; breakfast 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:3016:30, dinner 18:00-23:00. Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavourful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from Warsaw’s top hotel – excellent. $$$
Nine Club and Restaurant ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. 22 828-9966, www.nineclub.eu. Open daily 11:00-midnight. This night club doubles as a restaurant with an intriguing menu put together by a twentysomething maestro who bases his technique on state-of-the-art sous-vide cooking. Simple, yet excellent meat and fish dishes. Flashy décor gives a glam vibe to lunch or dinner. $$$
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Nomia Restaurant (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. 22 8314379, www.nomia.waw.pl. Open daily 10:0024:00. Nomia is the chicest and yummiest place to grab a bite in the New Town Square.
Merliniego 5 Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646-0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s
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Papryka ul. Zwycięczów 22, tel. 22 616 0257 www.papryka-salami.pl. The Hungarian owner carts in ham, salami, various types of preserved peppers, and naturally, Egri Bikavér wines. Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856-7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl Open daily 10:00-last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616-2882, www.passepartout.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. European with a touch of Asian and American. Something for every fancy. Try the salmon (zł.41) lightly studded with crushed peppercorns – delicious. $$ Porto Praga (Praga) Global Food & Connoisseur Bar, ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698-5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:0024:00. It’s worth a trip across the Vistula to explore the world of fine global cuisine in the Art Deco interiors of a renovated textile mill. World-class cocktails and premium international dishes like Spanish ossobuco, and Madagascar filet mignon. $$
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Prima Vera (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 406-2345, www.primavera.pl, Open daily 11:00-23:00. This Ukranian joint boasts some great dishes from around the world, especially the carpaccio, thin-crust pizzas or simple chłodnik on warmer days. $ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625-7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$
23:00; Sat 12:30-24:00; Sun 12:30-16:30. Portion sizes are satisfying, the menu is fresh and original and the service will make your meal even more pleasurable. $$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00. Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318-2834, www.strauss.pl. Open MonFri: Lunch 11:00-16:00, Dinner 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$
R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628-0295, Open daily 9:00-23:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalising selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Restauracja Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339-0775, 022 626-8907, www.studiobuffo.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:30-23:00; Sat & Sun 13:0023:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types. The menu offers tasty conventional mains. $$ Restaurant 99 (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620-1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-
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Samira al. Niepodległosci 213, tel. 22 825-0961, www.samira.pl. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826-6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl Open Sun-Thur 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Warsaw’s first fusion restaurant still leads the pack in terms of signature cocktails— you can’t miss the watermelon martini. The menu blends the best of Asian and European cusine, with its delicious curries and tom kah kai soup. $$
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Shilla ul. Wąwozowa 33, tel. 22 649-3376. Open MonSat 09:00-19:00. Your best bet for Japanese and Korean groceries. The catch is that the
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store is located in the backwaters of Kabaty. They sell furikake (flavour-enhancers for rice) as well as Japanese beverages like Asahi beer, Kirin lemon tea and iced coffee.
Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. $$
but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. Skip the tuna steak in teriyaki but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$
Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626-1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing Semifredo ice-cream. $$
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Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646-4585, www.bistro-zuzu.pl Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $
Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839-3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$-$$$
Ye Goode Foode ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2388, www.yegoodefoode.pl. A resturant with oldfashioned slow food that’s good for you. They use only unrefined oils as part of their cooking process as well as whole wheat flour, freerange eggs and ecologically-sourced teas. You and Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00, Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-24:00. Currently serving a new spring & summer menu in addition to their already pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$
french Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826-0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open MonSat 12:00-24:00. This upmarket restaraunt dazzles with an extensive menu full of brilliant French cuisine and impeccable service. $$
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Le Petite France ul. Zwycięców 28, lok. 12, tel. 22 622-9646 www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties, such as Fleur de Marquis and Sainte Maure. There’s also all sorts of preserved meats.
St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826-3008, www.stantonio.pl Open Tues-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$
Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839-8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl Open daily 12:0022:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. Great pizza. $
Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827-8716; catering mob. 0502-042-588, www.restauracja villafoksal.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest;
Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447-2500. www.jazzbistro.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00 The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lenghty,
Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621-4258, www.prowansja.pl, restauracja@prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavours. $$ Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, Milanówek, tel. 22 4253881 www.willaborowka.pl Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$
italian Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635-8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open daily 10:0023:00. Cornetti, fratetti, focaccia and panna cotta are just a few of melodic Italian breakfast treats you’ll come across. Breakfast served daily from 08:00-12:00. Great for kids. $$$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626-8303, www.bacio.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too. $$$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831-0202 www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera in the Old Town Square. Brilliant pizza pies, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885-7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828-0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Sunday brunch: 12:00-16:00, zł.88. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831-3443.
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Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight, Sun 13:0020:00. Located just outside of the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar and restaurant serves up some great food (try the steak) and exceptional wines from top European winemakers for decent prices. Lovely patio in spring and summer. $-$$ BOW 2009 “Best Newcomer” Winner. Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828-2605, www.gar.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent, thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549-6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$
rich seasoning and fresh ingredients. Start off with a beef tartar with thin slices of parmesan, prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe. $$ Mela Verde (D4) ul. Chmielna 8, tel. 22 826-6346, www.melaverde.pl. Open daily 12:00-01:00. This funky Italian pizzeria and eatery is a perfect place to grab a quick lunch between meetings. The staff is friendly and welcoming, and the pastas and fresh-made pizzas are great. $$ Mille Gusti (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23 (corner of al. Jana Pawła II), tel. 22 499-5178 www.millegusti.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. In Italian, Mille Gusti means “a thousand flavours.” This newcomer on the Warsaw scene is true to its name, offering a wide-ranging menu of Italian dishes – from salads to hearty pastas, meat dishes and, of course, pizza pies. $$ Nonsolopizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824-1273 Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. The decor isn’t striking, the pastas are passable, but the salads are good and the varied selection of pizzas from the wood-fired oven is superb. $
Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 8262788, www.giovanni.pl Open daily 11:00midnight/last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. Decent house wine too. $
The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450-6706. Open Mon-Fri 06:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 07:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. With a new summer menu bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90.
Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672-5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00 This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secrete fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $
Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterow 14, tel. 22 425-5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the centre, this lovely villa houses a cosy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$
La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331-6798, 022 331-6797, www.lacantina.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. A long wait and stiff prices leave much to be desired. $$ La Strada (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 23/25, tel. 22 670-0527, www.lastrada.com.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. A hot find in Praga, with a décor easily reminiscent of an Italian village. Offers authentic, satiable Italian cuisine consisting of
Parmizzano’s (C5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630-6306. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Excellent service, traditional Italian menu and incredible food. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Pastacafe (H2) ul. Kamionkowska 48a, tel. 22 870-0373, www.pastacafe.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-21:00. Pastacafe, a low-key
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restaurant-cum-café situated on quiet Kamionkowska Street has managed to perpetually lure a regular following. $$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961 Open daily 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846-8737. Open daily 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822-2750, www.nabarskiej.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We are told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzera na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498-8877. www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:0022:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00. It may be unassuming, but this family-style pizza place serves up some of the best pizza pies we’ve tried. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622-6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702-8777 Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644-559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00 Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $
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ITALIAN Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641-9544, www.rimini.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849-5674, www.balgera.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653-6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open daily 11:00-24:00. It’s not often that the waitstaff of a restaurant walks the tight rope between inattentiveness, attentiveness and hovering. Combine the delectable selection of treats for the tummy with a quiet and peaceful ambience and you’ll definitely remember this experience. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652-1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. Still huge and classy, and still dishing out excellent Italian food from the famous Tuscany region. Elegant décor, flawless service and an eye-popping wine list for a lovely dining out experience. $$$ Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826-7676; Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Good food and charming Italian-themed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewen about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621-0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> you to try its Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw, in Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of deserts -with ice creams produced on-site with the best Italian ingredients. Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the Tuna Salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade
fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$
Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $
Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl Open daily 12:00-22:00 Serving classic Italian favourites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this newly opened restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.
Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880-724, www.malagruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $
Va Bene Ristorante ul. Pruszkowska 13 (A9), tel. 22 824-5060, www.vabene.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356-1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00 Fresh salads, thin-crust pizzas and a huge variety of pastas makes this international staple of Italian cuisine a hit. The Warsaw location is bright, spacious and family-friendly. Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 5581094. Open daily 06:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. Free parking up to two hours when dining. Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823-8380, www.veraitalia.pl Open daily 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$
balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854-0782, www.banjaluka.pl Open daily 12:00-24:00. Enjoy a variety of dishes from the hearts of Croatia and Serbia-Montenegro, while listening to folk tunes. It’s a bustling place, so be sure to make a reservation. $$ Bistro Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406-3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625-1040 www.babooshka.pl Open daily 10:00-22:00. This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more.
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Mała Serbia (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622-4640, www.malaserbia.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. With wall to wall sports memorabilia, it’s no longer the only place in town serving authentic Serbian food. Meat-lovers will still be in their element: the portions are gigantic, delicious and good value for money. $
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greek/middle eastern Bar Balbinka (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 625-4440. Open daily 09:00-23:00. All the usual kebabs and grills you expect to find in a typical Turkish café, but supplemented with daily home-made specials such as stuffed aubergine, spicy lamb stews or tasty trout. $ Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616-2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Small and always packed; the menu features all the old favourites: kebabs, grills and salads, and a special Turkish yoghurt. $ Le Cedre (F1) al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670-1166, www.lecedre.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Special recommendations: a salad with parsley as a starter and the cubes of chicken grilled on a skewer. Next door is Cedros, offering Lebanese food and other items, including a great take-away service. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Balkan and Middle Eastern” Winner. Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585-1004, www.lokanta.home.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. The restaurant has built up
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its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$ Meltemi Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823-9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Samira (C7) al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825-0961. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.samira.pl. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and and artist scarfing down their excellent Lebabon Kafta. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672-0525. www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php Open daily 12:00-23:00. Good Greek cuisine, a lovely whitewashed courtyard with friendly service. $$ Zorba ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648-4589, www.zorba.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to kvetch about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetisers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$
latin Argentine (E8) ul. Sandomierska 13, tel. 22 463-4788, www.argentina.com.pl. Open daily 11:00midnight (dinner until 22:00). An authentic Argentine spot with its own tango room and 7 types of steak from the US and Argentina. Paired with a fine Malbec, they come perfectly grilled to order and satisfying for those in search of steak in the city. $$-$$$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827-2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343-434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:0002:00. Great decor and impressive service. The salsa is a bit on the bland side, but the salmonspinach quesadillas and burgers are what keep us coming back. Plus the margaritas. $$ La Fiesta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829-8560, ul. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 621-3154, www.lafiesta.pl. Open MonFri 10:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-02:00. A relaxed vibe and decent Mexican food. $$ Latino Brasserie @ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel. 22 321-8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$
Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898-0925. Open daily 11:00-23:00. www.portucale.pl. Transport yourself to Portugal and enjoy true Portugese fare. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific eating-out experience. $$ Restauracja Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (in Złote Trasy Shopping Mall). Open daily 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans, rejoice! With the full range of tastes – from spicy veggies to succulent squid – Tapa y Toro is an ideal place to enjoy the most perfect tapas platters. To ignore the fact that you are in a mall, sit at one ofthe middle tables. $$ Tapas Bar/Casa to Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 828-5890, www.casatotu.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Great cocktails and signature margaritas at the bar upstairs, a sprawling maze of cozy dining rooms downstairs. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556-4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826-9021, www.mexican.pl Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Corona bottle
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> chandeliers and pretty waitresses in skimpy tops. The cocktails are refreshing and the tortillas fresh. Order anything else and you’ll be reminded it’s a long way to Mexico. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621-8622; www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open daily noon till last guest. Whatever you do, be sure to get the Factory Nachos – they’re huge and the guacamole is amazingly good. $$
american & tex-mex Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629-3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0024:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes all you
need is a good steak to make everything okay; this is the place to find one. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851-2323, www.bluecactus.pl. With modern south western cuisine and a garden with a view on Morskie Oko Park, this place pulls in the families, kids and couples. A very rich menu, big portions, fabulous cocktails and a great frozen strawberry margarita make this place noteworthy. $$ Sunday brunch: 12:00-15:00; zł.72 for adults and zł.10 for kids under 10. BOW 2009 “Best Spanish and LatinAmerican” Winner Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
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Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59, Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222-0700. Open daily 12:00-midnight. All the favourites are firmly in place, like the double-bacon-cheeseburger, BLT, massive salads and the tastiest nachos and guacamole in the city by far. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825-1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open SunThurs 10:00-midnight, Fri-Sat 10:00-01:00.
Toan Pho ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888-147-307 Mon-Fri 9.30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 tanding in the queue at Toan Pho I hear the following exchange: “Nie ma,” said the proprietor. “Nie ma?” responded a Polish customer, perplexed. “Nie ma,” the Vietnamese repeated decisively. “Nie ma” translates to “we don’t have it”. Normally “nie ma” would get the Ugly Capitalist in me fuming, but this exchange I found rather amusing. The customer was flabbergasted not to find any surówki (a salad) with his fried rice. The standard Polish-Vietnamese version, is shredded pickled cabbage, carrot and bits of chilli. I’ve long distrusted this jarring surówki, which seems to come readyglued to many a polish meal. Its ever-present nature has become a nuisance. So, it’s pleasing to find someone refusing to budge to cabbage culture. Surówki scrutiny aside, what drew me in to Toan Pho was a blown-up newspaper write-up on the wall with the headline “The Stadium’s Soul.” Years ago, I went on a quest around the city’s Vietnamese restaurants looking for a bowl of pho, and was greeted with amused “nie ma” from the immigrant cooks. I finally found the beef noodle soup in the beat-up shacks of the bazaar by the old stadium in Praga. Treating myself meant using recycled wooden chopsticks and eating from bowls that were only given a half-hearted rinse. As the construction of the new stadium gets underway in earnest, the stalls at the bazaar are disappearing. But the good news is there are a few more places on the west side of the river that are now preparing this dish. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodle are just the thing for my Asian soul. Also appealing is the chaos intrinsic to casual Asian eateries. When they’re packed (which they usually are), you need to hover near a table where the plates and bowls are almost empty. Order your food at the counter from the owner who is more interested in the program running on the flatscreen overhead. In Toan Pho, the short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding, although you can ask for an English version. The chef yells out the names of the dishes when they are ready. If your Polish is wobbly, stand close to the kitchen. The food is decent and as for the pho, the only thing I would add is a touch more coriander. (K.C.)
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“Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodle are just the thing for my Asian soul…”
tel. 22 630-5119, www.champions.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$
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The ultimate dining place to satisy a craving for authentic American cuisine and kitsch. Rinse it all down with Coca-Cola. $ BOW 2009 “Best Breakfast” Winner. Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450-6707, someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue.-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Long known on the Warsaw scene as a good place to get spicy and sizzlin’ Tex-Mex dishes and great Margaritas. Good live music. $$$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza Bldg.), tel. 22 653-8360/62. Open Mon-Fri 10:0024:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. Typical USA chain style restaurant serving burgers, ribs and salads, with sometimes disappointing substitutes for American ingredients, although the beer and sports are fun. $$
asian & indian Arti Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123 , tel. 22 626-9002 Open daily 11:0-22:30. Welcome to India in the heart of Warsaw. Expect a bright and welcome atmosphere. Arti’s menu is extensive, offering 15 appetizers, 13 types of bread, 16 chicken, 12 lamb and 22 vegetarian dishes! It may be a little expensive but definitely worth it! Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826-3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620-
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AMERICAN/ASIAN & INDIAN 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. The classiest of Chinese eateries. A beautiful and traditional indoor gives a great look at Chinese history and culture, perfectly complimented by a sophisticated menu. $$
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Bollywood Lounge ul. przeskok 2, tel 22 827 0283. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest, Sat 16:00-last guest, Sun 12:00-17:00. Daily parties with all the latest Indian and other exotic beats, lots of dancing, lights, colours and sheesha smoke. Buddha ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826-3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 This restaurant in the heart of the city offers a large selection of Indian dishes for vegetarians.
Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00 Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. Both locations of Dziki Ryż are very popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $-$$ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621-5015, www.dzonka.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:0017:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $
Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838-3823, www.canton. warszawa.pl Open daily 11:00-22:00. Tucked under residential blocks in Wola, Canton has been wokking away quietly for 10 years. Highly recommended is the Peking Roast Duck (zł.99). Perfect for families and large groups. $$
Galeria Bali and Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828-6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. As a lavish gallery and restaurant in one, Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$$
Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827-9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but on the plus side are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (allyou-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck.$$
Ganesh (Ursynów) Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 93 lok 1, tel. 22 335-0887, www.ganesh.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 This Indian restaurant might not scream “fine dining” with its interior, but once you try their dahi gosht, you might beg to differ. The palak paneer, mutton vindaloo or vegetarian kofta won’t disappoint either. Satisfaction guaranteed. $$
W i nne r o f St y l e S p ots 2 0 0 8 a nd Wa rsa w Insid er’s Bes t of Wars aw 2009 Bes t Bus i nes s Lunch Award
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Herezja ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074-175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties. Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658-0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438-9350, www.indiacurry.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00. Authentic décor and an extensive menu that covers all corners of India. The Mutton Masala is out of this world. $$$ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696-3300
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www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. Along the street known as “Embassy Way,” Lemongrass Restaurant is all sleek décor and fantastic Thai cuisine. The whole place is a futuristic mix of Asian minimalism and pan-European glamour. Excellent cocktails – try the Shanghair Mojito. Plus, a full dim sum menu and crispy aromatic duck with cucumber and spring onion. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Business Lunch” Winner. Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621-1392 www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. One of two princely Asian restaurants in the centre of Warsaw, the decor is outlandish and the food ranges from bland to superiorly spicy. Curry dishes are the right choice here. $$ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635-2501. Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.
Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019-666. www.mandalaklub.com and www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00, Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its indiaexpress catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696-3856, www.namasteindia.pl. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. For fans of the tiny but great takeout spot at Nowogrodzka 1, Namaste has a restaurant in the old town and a new club/restaurant in the centre (entrance from ul. Parkingowa). While the decor in the latter might bring to mind a middle school dance, the food is affordable and amazing. Business lunch 12:00-17:00 daily, zł.17. $ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450-
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6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$
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Opium Pleasure Lounge ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 (pl. Teatralny), tel. 22 827 7161. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-01:00, Sat and Sun 12:00-02:00. Attractive, vaguely Asian décor. The chill-out room upstairs allows you to stretch out and relax. There’s a long list of alcohols at the bar and a good selection of local and international Djs at the weekends. Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel 022 826-1199, 022 826-4851. Open daily 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl Mix things up in this hip spot where the chef brings out the best of Thailand, Japan and China. Surprisingly great sushi – the salmon sashimi plate is brilliant – and tasty soups and curries. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Asian Cuisine” Winner Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827-4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin, on ul. Senatorska. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is very good. $$ Q-Club (E6-7) Hyatt Regency Hotel, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558-1234. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-23:00. Fresh and funky Asian-themed menu, Q-Club offers a variety of gourmet buffet spreads from across the globe. $$$
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JAPANESE & SUSHI here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.
Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434-2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Among the best Thai restaurants in Warsaw. Start with a mix of delicious appetizers, pad thai and all of the curries are great. A real treat for Thai afficionados. $$
japanese & sushi Akashia (C4) al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636-6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222-0333, www.akashia.pl With two locations, you have a choice of decent sushi. We recommend the Sushi Set ‘Normal’ (zł.55), which consists of nine sushi and six maki and the very tasty Beef Itame (zł.37). $$
Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627-1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood and the shrimp cakes are worth a try. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635-3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Lovely pastel interior, and a welcome change from the seedy and stained décor you’re accustomed to in Chinese-Vietnamese joints. Food and service get high marks as well. $$
Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621-7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$
Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7. tel. 888 147 307. Run by a Vietnamese couple that formerly ruled a soup stall at the National Stadium, this unseemly place serves up some of the most authentic Vietnamese chicken and beef soups. $ Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520-2222, www.tobaya.pl. Don’t let the Wola office building exterior fool you – inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots
Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 8280020 www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0022:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00 This intimate little sushi restaurant in the pavilions behind ul. Nowy Świat sports chic decor, excellent sushi and good service. The best sushi deal in the city for quality and price. $ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480,
Royal India (B3) ul. Jana Pawła II 45A, lokal 43, tel. 22 487-7077 www.royalindia.waw.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00 In spite of its plain appearance, this unassuming spot has got some dishes that will satisfy most curry connoisseurs, especially the chicken Jal Frizy and Saag Mutton with butter naan or onion-fried rice. $ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756-3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00 A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The new summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from theclassic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $-$$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 8268585, www.hanasushi.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00 This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622-5955. Open daily 12:00-23:00 (the kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Business Lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. Izumi Sake (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 8257950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open daily 12:0023:00. Not to be mistaken with Izumi Sushi, this chic and petite restaurant is just the place to warm up with Japanese green tea and to satisfy cravings for hot sake and noodle soup. $ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825-7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open daily 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892-0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44. tel. 22 828-0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826-4517.
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www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in slick setting. Plus vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636-0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826-5958, www.sakana.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. With all the usual suspects firmly in place, what sets Sakana apart is its wonderful atmosphere and friendly service – not to mention a superb location. $$$ BOW 2009 “Best Sushi” Winner So-an Sushi Club (D6) ul. Koszykowa, tel. 22 630 810-054. Open daily noon-23:00. Because it’s hidden in a corner, this place is familiar to some regulars as the ‘shy Sushi on Koszykowa.’ Sure, the sushi is great but there’s also a selection of hot Japanese dishes like the Shabu-Shabu beef bowl. Specials include an 11-piece sushi set with soup — only 55 zł. Delivery available. $-$$ Sushi 77 (multiple locations) www.sushi77.com, ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890-1811, Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. Felicjana SławojaSkładkowskiego 4. Open daily 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826-4787, www.sushiteatr.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zenlike elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420-3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Characterized by an inviting bar, this sushi joint offers a myriad of delicious maki and nigiri combinations. Allow the chefs to make up a few specialties based on your favorite ingredients and prepare to get infatuated with the fresh, zesty flavor. $$ Tekeda (H6) ul. Francuska 16a, tel. 22 616-1418, www.sushi.pl Open daily 12:00-last guest. The sushi floats by on little boats, with cooked
seafood options for the raw-fish squeamish worth the trip across the river. $$$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434-2344, www.tomo.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Excellent. With the maki, sushi and sashimi floating past on little wooden platters, this is the place for all you impatient eaters. The fact that it’s packed every night of the week says it all. $$$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, 3rd Floor (Promenada Mall), tel. 22 611-3535, www.yokosushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$
seafood Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30. Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 110:00-21:00 www.fishandchips.pl. This might be the only place in Warsaw which sell British style breaded cod and chips. Also on the menu are deep-fried Mars and Snickers bars. Visit if you long for the taste of the chippy. Alas, the food does not come wrapped in English newspapers. Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621-1646, mob. 601 243-466, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 or until last guest. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, it's ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. Superb fresh oysters and lobster dishes. $$
african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617-4057. Open daily 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can reappear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open daily 14:00-last guest. Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as I-dare-you items like goat’s head. $
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bars & pubs Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826-5455, biuro@browarmia.pl, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The place brews its own beer, which makes it great for a ‘guys night out.’ $ Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 6566281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest, Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience. $ Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620-2413 www.chlodna25.pl Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00last guest. A café in the daytime, beatnik-chic meeting spot by night. Chłodna 25 has got the laid-back vibe of a house party. $
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Confashion Sport Bar (D2) ul. Moliera 6, tel 22 203 6888, www.confashion-sport.pl. Open Mon-Sun 09:00-01:00. This is definitely one of the best venues for sports lovers which Warsaw has to offer. To top it all off, the place serves huge burgers as well as top-notch cocktails. What better way to watch the game?! Hard Rock Cafe (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222-0700, www.hardrock.com. Open daily 12:00-02:00. The Warsaw branch of this legendary establishment is chock-full of all the classic memorabilia and a hint of Nashville flavour. A great live music venue and hamburger-hotspot. $$ BOW 2009 “Best Live Music” Winner. Jazz Café Helicon (C1) Freta 45/47, tel. 22 635-9505. Open daily 11:00-00:00/last guest. Tasty snacks and beer make this a perfect stop off the beaten track in the Old Town/New Town area. Back garden open in summer. $ Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (B4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654-6656. Open 10:00-last guest. Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. With Guinness on tap, an all-day Irish breakfast and some of the friendliest staff in the city, this is the best Irish pub in Warsaw. $$
www.saturator.art.pl Open daily 20:00-last guest. One of Praga’s most eminent enclaves of cool, with a distinctly camp vibe. $
Nowy Świat “Pavilions” (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 and Foksal A maze of Warsaw’s best dive bars, from the legendary Pewex, breezy Windigo, heavy red Klepsydra or hookah-friendly Kafajka. $
Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826-6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00last guest; Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest. Sense is not only one of Warsaw’s most popular restaurants, it also boasts a brilliant vodka bar. $$
Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Swiętokrzyska 63, www.krytyka polityczna.pl. Open daily 9:00-last guest. The newest spot to hit Nowy Świat brings a low-key Berlin vibe. This place is the answer to hipster hangouts along the main strip. $
Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00, upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, although rather pricey of you’re doing rounds so better stick to the local draught. $
Panorama Bar (C5) Top of the Marriott – 40th floor, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630-5074, 22 630-6306 Open daily 18:00-02:00. The drinks are quite good – if on the pricey side at about zł.30-35 a pop, while the décor of the two-floor venue is pretty darn glamorous. $$$
Time Café (E4) ul. Smolna 40, tel. 604-595-323, www.timecafe.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. This timely treasure is hidden in a courtyard smack in the centre of the city. The interiors are partly industrial and partly vintage, which makes for a charmingly eclectic combination. $
Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828-4219. paparazzi.com.pl/pl/warszawa/ Open Mon-Thur & Sun 16:00-01:00, Fri & Sat 16:00-02:00. Pre-party meeting point for the fancier Warsaw crowd. $$$ Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Plac Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316-976, www.planbe.pl Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest, Sun 16:00last guest. The coolest dive bar in Warsaw. It’s strictly for the artsy crowd who are in for the beer, cigarettes and some good music. $
jazz clubs
Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 8267936. Open 24 hours. One of its prime attributes is the fact that it’s open 24 hours and serves food/vodka shots/beer. You’ll find it packed to the brim at two, three, four and even five am. $ Pub Lolek (B8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825-6202 www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling. $ Restaurant 99 (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 23, www.restaurant99.com, tel. 22 620-1999. Open daily 08:00-23:00. This slick Warsaw fusion restaurant also has one of the best bars in the city, with expert service. $$-$$$ Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 504 353-772,
Jazz Point Bistro (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, level -1, tel. 22 222-0910. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. It may be located in the mall but it has got a tasty Asian menu. Outdoor terrace live with funky jazz acts. $$ Jazzownia Liberalna (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635-3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that aren’t mind-blowing. $$ Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowieczka 6/8, tel. 22 828-3409 www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club. $
clubs Balsam (D10) ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 22 898-2824 Open daily 11:00-last guest, Fri-Sat 12:00-last
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Current issue: 01 – 31 October 2010. www.warsawinsider.pl guest. Located in a former fort in the Mokotów district, its low-key vintage atmosphere attracts mostly the hip, younger crowd. $ Bollywood Lounge ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 22 827 0283. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest, Sat 16:00-last guest, Sun 12:00-17:00. Daily parties with all the latest Indian and other exotic beats, lots of dancing, lights, colours and Sheesha smoke. Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826-8570, www.clubcapitol.pl A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, overthe-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events. $$$ BOW 2009 “Best Night Out” Winner. Club 70 (B3) ul. Waliców 9, tel. 22 654-6767, www.club70.pl Open Mon-Sat 20:00-last guest. The DJ spins a mix of hits from the 70s, 80s and 90s, bringing Saturday Night Fever into the 21st Century. $
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Confashion cocktail bar&restaurant (D4)
ul. Moliera 2/4, tel. 22 692-8585, www.confashion.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:0024:00, Fri 12:00-02:00, Sat 19:00-02:00. The drinks are perfection, the décor sleek and inviting. $$
Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827-3151, www.enklawa.com Open Wed-Sat 21:00-04:00. Enklawa is surprisingly packed most nights of the week thanks to a sprawling dance floor and pop DJs. Best Wednesday night party. $$ The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827-5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat 20:00-last guest. Created by the masterminds behind Platinium, The Eve balances the casualness of the lounge bar with a serious party vibe. $$$ Herezja ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale is off the beaten path in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A sensual labyrinth of rooms decked out with exotic, elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties. $$ Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open weekdays 12:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. This spot has a funky layout and the speakers serve up an eclectic mix swinging tunes from the past five decades. $ Klubokawiarnia (D3) Corner of ul. Czackiego and ul. Świętokrzyska. With the most kitsch PRL-propaganda décor in the city, you can dance the night away under the disapproving gazes of Marxist cronies. $
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Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 891 0619, www.mandalaklub.com. An Indian restaurant venue which is also a club. Its Reggae nights draw big crowds on Mondays. Mono Bar (D4) ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. 22 827-4557, www.monobar.pl Open Wed.-Sat 17:00-last guest. Something of a student hangout, the dance-floor is always happening. Regular Wed Latino night. $
Nine Club and Restaurant ul. Kredytowa 9, tel. 22 828-9966 www.nineclub.eu. Open daily 11:00midnight. Spread out over three levels, Nine Club doubles as a restaurant but downstairs is where the action’s really at, with an epic dance floor and frequent live music. $$ Obiekt Znaleziony (C3) ul. Małachowskiego 3 (cellar of the Zachęta National Gallery), tel. 22 828-058 www.obiekt.blog.pl Open Mon-Thrus. & Sun 12:00- 01:00, Fri & Sat 12:00-last guest. Located in the cellar of the Zachęta gallery, this club is a modern and minimalist artsy gathering spot for the alternative crowd. $ Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, The Grand Opera Theater, pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828-7075,
Lunch time Take-away option
Cocktails
Quality
Book parties with us
www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12
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www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A mysterious blend of Balinese-inspired styling and a sprawling dance floor. $$$ Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596-4666, www.platiniumclub.pl Open Mon-Thur 12:0001:00, Fri 12:00-05:00, Sat 16:00-05:00. Platinium has whipped up the perfect recipe for the most glamorous, most decadent, most devil-may-care hotspot. $$$ Powiększenie (F4) Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088. Open 11:00last guest. A low-key hangout that attracts mainly beer-loving student types. For fans of eclectic contemporary rock, electro and jazz, the downstairs stage regularly hosts cool local and international acts. $ Sheesha Lounge ul. Sienkiewicza 3, www.sheesha.pl Located in the centre of the city, Sheesha Lounge can be a good place to start your evening, or just take a little breather. A full Middle-Eastern menu and belly dancing.
Skład Butelek (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 602 338 824. Open weekends from 19:00-03:00. Whether you’re heading to Skład Butelek from any of the other two clubs in the 11 Listopada enclave in Praga or it’s your primary destination. This is unique and magical spot. $ Utopia (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 827-1540. Open daily 21:00last guest. Warsaw’s glammest nightclub is also the only real gay club in the city. Impossible to get into unless you’ve got the right connections or a really great haircut. $$
Riverside Venues
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La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. 22 331 4975 Located on the left bank right across from the Old Town, the view from this spot is spectacular. Add surf-inspired cocktails, lounge chairs, a volleyballl net and spontaenous samba – and it’s the most unexpected beach party you’ll ever see. A chunk of Ibiza right here in Waesaw.
*
Plac Zabaw www.placzabaw.blogspot.com. Meander your way through Agrykola Park in the middle of the night and you have one of two outcomes: you either get mugged or you make it to Plac Zabaw. The names translates as “playground” and it’s got a pretty low-key set-up in the middle of the wood just under the Trasa Łazienkowska highway.
*
Warszawa Powiśle ul. Leona Kruczkowskiego 3, tel. 602 773 997 This is the hippest spot in the city. All the cool kids from Warsaw and abroad convene at this refurbished railway ticket office before and after a night out. Cheap booze and loads of curb on which to park your bottom and survey the ranks of cool.
*
Cud nad Wisłą Kościuszkowski Bank along the Vistula – rear of the BUW University Library, ul. Dobra 55/56, tel. 790 703 412. This is the latest bar-on-thebeach endeavour in Warsaw – and certainly the most alluring. The music is a mix of club music and remixed electro and rock tunes. Serves beer and wine.
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In the Kitchen… Eva Solo Tea Brewing Appliance Complete with a temperature maintaining jacket, this is both an efficient way to brew tea and a stylish addition to any kitchen table. Guaranteed to help your cuppa maintain a strong, aromatic flavour. Ideal for tea lovers, this tea maker also comes with two glass tumblers. zł.383 at Fabryka Forum, www.fabrykaforum.pl
Alessi Mama O Kettle Chic, sleek and bound to make tea breaks ever so luxurious. Italian brand Alessi’s stainless steel “kettle with a whistle.” An Andrea Branzi design. zł.695 at Red Onion, www.redonion.pl
Kitchen Combo NEST 8 This ‘indispendable’ device is billed as a musthave in every kitchen. Linking aesthetics with functionality, the NEST 8 collection was designed with limited kitchen space in mind. It’s a mixture of bowls, sieves and other accessories all stacked into one. zł.188 at Le Duvel, www.leduvel.pl
Black and Blum High-Dry Drier Dish and cutlery drier from British brand Black and Blum. This ‘high elements’ drier allows you to dry glass tumblers as well as wine glasses. You can also save on space with its special fold away capacity. Available in green and grey. zł.179 at Rossi, www.rossi.pl
Chef’n GarlicZoom Garlic Cutter Easy to use and clean, the GarlicZoom works as you roll the device over a flat surface. zł.49.90 at FIDE, www.fide.pl
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BOOMERANG Frying Pan The Boomerang frying pan/wok is unique in that it doesn’t require any arduous wrist action. But what you lose in kitchen work-out, you gain in healthy eating: its Teflon Platinum Plus coating means that you can prepare meals with hardly any fat. zł.446 at Le Duvel, www.leduvel.pl
Joseph Joseph Rolling pin “Friendly, precise and practical” this rather anthropomorphic-sounding kitchen implement is available in green and grey. zł.98 at Le Duvel, www.leduvel.pl
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TILL YOU DROP Helping you indulge your high-end guilty pleasures
THIS MONTH:
* 5 UPDATES
fashion .............................58 sports gear .......................65 kids’ stuff .........................66 beauty & fragrances.........64
bookshops.......................68
accessories ......................62 interior design..................65 shopping malls................68
Insider’s Pick
(of the month):
HOT FIND
MamaGama ul. Jasna 17 m. 1 www.mamagama.pl Mon. 15:00-19:00 Thurs. 10:00-15:00 or by appointment Ula’s tel: 501 585 575 amaGama is the kind of store in which Beata Sobczyk and Ula Chincz always dreamed of doing their shopping. Co-founders, friends, and, above all, mothers to Nina, Rysio and Bruno, respectively, they have achieved their pet dream: to combine spending more time with their kids with less time in the office. Not just your run-of-the-mill dummy (or pacifier) and rattle sellers, MamaGama offers
M
“The owners stock products which are personally tried and tested on their own children…”
unique, practical products, created for women who don’t want to compromise on quality, especially when entering into motherhood for the first time. The owners stock products which are personally tried and tested on their own children – during walks, while taking naps, for bathing and just unwinding. They also think global in terms of sourcing their merchandise with creations coming from around Europe, Australia, and anywhere else where they note innovation. Many of the in-store items are available in Poland only through MamaGama. “Our aim is to make MamaGama a shop for mothers. We want our store to facilitate young mums.” they explain. “Our products are meant to ease the burden of everyday parenting.”
The shop also hosts a discussion forum. Mothers can leave recommendations, share ideas and exchange advice. “If someone recommends a product to us, we work hard to obtain it, even if it means going to the ends of the earth to find it.” Customers can have a virtual rummage in the online store (which unfortunately is not yet in English) or, alternatively, nip in to the Warsawbased and child-friendly showroom, equipped with toys, treats, and of course, kids.
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l
INDEX 3F Studio .................................65 400 Rabbits ............................62 Agharta ...................................65 American Bookstore ...............68 Angielski Antykwariat/English Books ..................................68 Ania Kuczyńska.......................58 Anna Walker............................58 Arkadia ...................................68 As You Like It...........................68 Bagatt .....................................62 Bally ........................................62 Bed and Breakfast ..................65 Blind Cafe Concept Store ........58 Blue City..................................68 Bo Concept..............................65 Body Shop ..............................64 Bonpoint.................................66 Burton Shop............................65 Cepelia ....................................65 Ceramika MM..........................65 Chiara......................................62 Chicco .....................................66 Church's..................................62 Clue.........................................58 Czuły Barbarzyńca ..................68 Dior .........................................64 Domoteka ...............................65 Ego&Eco..................................65 Eklada Home...........................65 Elf Joy ......................................62 Empik......................................68
Emporio Armani ......................58 Ermenegildo Zegna .................58 Etro Home ...............................65 Fashion House Outlet Centre..68 Flaming & Co...........................58 Flash........................................58 Frank A ....................................58 Frey Wille.................................62 Fridge ......................................64 Fryzierkowo.............................66 Furla ........................................62 Galeria 2 Deco.........................65 Galeria KEN.............................68 Galeria Mokotów ....................68 Galeria N+U.............................65 Gal i Lu ....................................64 Glamstore & Glamstore Elite...65 Gosia Baczyńska.....................59 Go Sport..................................65 Green Store .............................59 Harnn & Thann........................64 Hermitage ...............................62 Horn & More ...........................62 Hublot Boutique .....................62 id Interior Design.....................65 Impresja..................................66 Infashion Outlet ......................59 Inglot.......................................64 Instytut Clarins ........................64 Intersport ................................65 Jaime Mascaro ........................62 Jeanstore .................................59
fashion Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also caries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825-0664, www.annawalker.eu. This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions. Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 13:00-18:00. This eclectic 50s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. Perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.
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J.M. Weston.............................62 Joanna Klimas .........................59 Justyna Chrabelska .................59 Kalimba...................................66 Kate & Kate .............................62 Kartell......................................66 Klif...........................................68 Koło Antiques Market .............66 L'Aura ......................................59 L’Occitane ...............................64 Lanoro.....................................59 La Sal Gallery ..........................62 Likus Concept Store ................59 Lilou Signature Bijoux.............62 Lilla Moda ...............................59 Loding Shoes and Shirts.........59 Lullaby ....................................66 Luxury & Liberty ......................59 M.A.C. .....................................64 Maison Creative......................66 Mimbla....................................68 Mokotowska 71.......................66 Moliera 2.................................59 Mothercare .............................68 Muji.........................................66 Niebieskie Migdały.................68 Numery Litery..........................68 Od Czasu do Czasu.................62 Odzieżowe Pole.......................59 Orange Tree.............................66 Panorama ...............................68 Pandora ..................................64
Flash (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621-9943 Stocks the latest Jil Sander, Strenesse and other minimalist collections in a sophisticated space.
Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626-0650. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00. The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle in the center of town. Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584-7000, www.zegna.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne. Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629-
Petit Patapon ..........................68 Pinko .......................................59 PKS Snowboard Shop .............65 Premiere..................................59 Promenada .............................68 Quality Perfumeria ..................64 Recamiere...............................66 Red Onion...............................66 Redford & Grant ......................59 Robbe & Berking.....................66 RS1 ..........................................59 Sabon .....................................64 Sabotage.................................59 Sadyba Best Mall....................68 Scandinavian Living................66 Schumacher............................59 Sergio Rossi ............................64 Shoe Be Do.............................64 Simple.....................................62 Sklep Słoneczny .....................65 Smyk.......................................68 Spacestation...........................66 Targówek.................................68 Teresa Rosati...........................62 Time Trend ..............................64 W.Kruk.....................................64 Wola Park................................68 XXIV.........................................62 Zielony Kot ..............................64 Złote Tarasy.............................68 Zoom.......................................66
0545, www.flaming-co.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0020:00, Sat 10:00-18:00. This concept store, now re-opened on ul. Mokotowska after renovation work, beings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch in Galeria Mokotów and Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska.
Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 695 78-97, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.
Frank A (E6) ul. Natolińska 3. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00,
BARTOSZ BAJERSKI
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* updates! Sat 12:00-15:00. The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch. Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6, tel. 516 133-507, www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl. This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces. Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147-336, www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space. Infashion Outlet (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 43, tel. 502 263 655, www.infashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Visit this recently renamed shop for Scandinavian designer clothes at affordable prices. Jeanstore (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, Level 1 Promenada, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, Level 0 Jeanstore is a one-stop shop for the world’s most exclusive denim brands. From celebrity faves 7 for all mankind, J Brand, Juicy Couture, Rock & Republic, True Religion and Plein Sud, they’ve got it all. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831-0292 www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) tel. 502 437-200, info@justynachrabelska.com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the centre solely by apointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625-1680.
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…TILL YOU DROP Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Lanoro Lingerie Shop (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. 22 622-8947, www.lanoro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. The most well-stocked lingerie shop in the city, with collections from Chantelle, Passionata, Calvin Klein, Lejaby, Victoria’s Secret and more… Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492-7409. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541-3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man. Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00, Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But it’s fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip. Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel. 22 827-7099, www.moliera2.com, office@moliera2.com Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00 Devoted exclusively to the fashion houses of Valentino and Salvatore Ferragamo, this fancy boutique is stocked with all three Valentino lines as well as accessories from Ferragamo. BOW 2009 “Best Fashion” Winner.
Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 622-4867 This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers. Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up. Pinko (D4) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 22 628 5048; Promenada shopping centre, www.pinko.it Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-18:00. Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Première Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531-4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. Redford and Grant (D3) at the Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313-2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. RS1 (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, www.rs-store.pl. Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-17:00 RS1 is the continuation of the Guerilla Store concept founded by Robert Serek. This is the place to go for fashion-forward items from Comme Des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, sunglasses by Linda Farrow for Raf Simons and Bernhard Wilhelm, as well as cool trainers from designer Puma collections. Sabotage (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887-1056, Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London or Tokyo. Schumacher (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 621-9950 This boutique sells über-chic clothing from the
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MEXICAN CHIC Fashion designer Rodrigo de la Garza discusses his Mexican roots and what made him trade the warm climes of Central America for chilly Poland ou may have seen his name pop up on Facebook or seen some of his slick suits on a smattering of celebs in society glossies like Viva and Gala. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. It’s not surprising – there are quite a few Central and South American natives out there who ditch that part of the world for an entirely different deal here – and they love it. De la Garza came to Poland six years ago when working for his parents’ business importing and exporting Alpacas and their wool around Europe. Two and a half years
Y
ago, Rodrigo decided to sell his share of his parents’ business and follow his dreams of fashion design. He began working out of a small workshop, taking his time to set up the right supply and production structure. “My priority was to find the right textiles and the most efficient way of getting the best fabrics for my suits. It was seven months between the day I started the business and the day I created my first prototype that fulfilled all my expectations for fit, texture and construction.”he explains. “It was a bit hard in the beginning but I’m very happy with the outcome today.” Last Spring, de la Garza moved into a swanky thrift-chic showroom at ul. Bema 65, on the ground floor of a refurbished factory in the Wola district. The exposed brick walls and vintagestyle furnishings bring a London-esque vibe to the most unexpected of places. And the giant in-house Saint Bernard is the perfect accessory. and his own personal style. As for The designer’s specialty is customprices, expect to spend no less than made, or bespoke, suits, ideally cut and zł.2,500 and no more than zł.5,000. in all the styles and patterns you could What is the classic de la Garza silhoutte? “Inlets, sculpted shoulders, higher buttons, slightly wider lapels – this creates a really slim, masculine line,” explains the designer. Having just pulled off a very successful first fashion show this past month, de la Garza is the rising star of the local fashion scene and beyond. When it comes to getting your hands on a really great item that is tailored to fit a man’s form and style, while even visually shaving off a few pounds, in Warsaw, de la Garza is the one to watch. Definitely worth a trip to Bema – and have a few glasses at the next-door 4 Senses wine bar. Fabulous. possibly conjure up. The textiles – merino wool tweeds and cashmere – come from Italy and England. After a Rodrigo precise measurement session, the De La Garza client’s requirements and preferences ul. Bema 65, are discussed and a few weeks later, a suite 6 marvelous new bespoke suit is ready to mob. 664 524 847 hit the city streets. www.delagarza.it His customers range in age from 16 to Opening hours: 60 as the collection of models cover a by appointment broad range of tastes. From traditional cuts and textures to dandy-esque patterns in plaids and flashy fabrics, everything is available from Paul Smith to Versace, depending on the customer
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COURTESY OF RODRIGO DE LA GARZA
COURTESY OF RODRIGO DE LA GARZA
“My priority was to find the right textiles and the most efficient way of getting the best fabrics for my suits…”
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COURTESY OF RODRIGO DE LA GARZA
BY AGNIESZKA LENART
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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Schumacher line in a pristine, minimalist setting and comfortable fitting and lounge area. Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531-4500 (Klif) www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio. Teresa Rosati tel. 609 433-343, www.teresarosati.com.pl, email: teresarosati@op.pl. Elegant cocktail dresses and gowns for special occasions beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s bestknown designers. Ready-to-wear and custommade services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment. XXIV (E6) ul. Koszykowa 24, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13-20, Sat 12:00-15:00 Run by the owner of the Rs1 and Warsaw Nike shops, this boutique follows the hipster streak with an in-store cafe and loads of cool clothes and gadgets from the likes of Penfield, Schott, Skandynawski Wood Wood and Cheap Monday.
accessories 400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629-2636, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space.
Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611-3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.
and seductive lingerie are all available at this jaw-dropping shop. BOW 2009 “Best Accessories” Winner.
Church’s (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745-0810 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.
Jaime Mascaro (E4) ul. Mysia 5 (Liberty Corner), tel. 22 596-5115 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00 The Mascaro family has been making shoes for three generations. Here, you can get the latest styles in quality materials for a fraction of what you’d pay at the P3K shops up the street.
Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793-729, www.elfjoy.com Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant handmade pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37 (D4), tel. 22 827-5503, www.frey-wille.com Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finelyground glass and minerals. Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 5413896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan.
Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621-9144 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Plac Trzech Krzyży.
Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 323-76 76 www.hermitage.pl. Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a worldclass selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo, along with limited edition Vertu mobiles.
Bally (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 551-5469, www.bally.com Mon- Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00 -16:00 The company name has been synonymous with top-class shoes for 160 years, and Bally’s shoes are still the stuff of a fashionista’s dreams. You can also find handbags and a small fashion collection.
Horn & More (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 628-4007, www.hornandmore.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. One of the most intiruing additions to the Warsaw shopping scene is this daring boutique. This elegant shop sports all the ingredients for the perfect seduction. Aromatic teas, intriguing scents,
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Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821-0101 This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world.
J.M. Weston (E5) Plac Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745-0810 Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 Sat 10:00-17:00. This French luxury leather shoe and accessories brand has been known for its Parisian style and American-inspired technique since the late 19th century. Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021-841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend or fellow Insider. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. The boutique’s owner travels the continent in search of designers. One of our hottest finds yet. La Sal Gallery (E5) ul. Mokotowska 52, tel. 22 628-0226, www.lasalgallery.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. The owners scan the globe in search of unique jewelry and exotic salts that come in all sorts of textures, colors and flavours. Lilou Signature Bijoux (C6) ul. Moktowska 63. tel. 508 353-034, www.lilou.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:30-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00. This new boutique showcases the work of designer Magdalena Mousson-Lestang – sweet charms bracelets and necklaces that are pure low-key chic. Free engraving and a wide selection of styles make these a perfect personalized gift for both men and women. Od Czasu do Czasu at Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222-0305 www.zegarki.info.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Offers a brilliant selection of watches and fine jewelry from the
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Sponsored Feature
AUTUMNAL INSPIRATION BY BY RICHIE RICH s those winter nights creep closer and the post-summer days get shorter, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t embrace the seasonal change in style. And what better way to brighten up than with PANDORA? The established jewellery line has created a new collection of ready-to-wear items which play up to autumn’s changing colours, with handcrafted designs in burnt colours just waiting to flatter autumnal wardrobes. For Fall, PANDORA’s collection has toned down the colouring and, as always, keeps its trademark quality. The designs work with the coming season’s natural colour schemes to create styles that are fitting, but versatile.You can accessorize shawls and coats with a personal touch: the new collection’s array of charm-combination possibilities allows you to create unique trends that are all your own. You could, for instance, opt for the “PANDORA moments” designs: a selection of charms “Golden Moments,” “Decorative Silver” and “Black and Gold” tones which blend beautifully with the world famous PANDORA charm bracelet. The exotic wood designs and Ruby and Onyx stones add to the luxury; whilst the detachable straps allow you to be creative with the ways in which you wear your bracelet. A personal favourite is the “Friends Forever”range: ideal for those who want to cement any special end-of-year relationships. You can even make your gift go further, by making a present of new charms to build up your bracelet-giving exchanges: just remember to leave some slack when selecting bracelet sizes to fit in those future charms. PANDORA “Compose” is particularly ideal when making your own masterpiece. The series of beautiful silver and 14k gold earrings can be worn in endless combinations. In addition to old classics are a range of stunning hoops in silver and goldwhich work best when combined with shapes like tear-drop or moonstone pendants and plunging necklines. Or you can up the elegance with round, feminine pendants featuring gemstones in an array of colours such as black rutilite, pink opal and
A
green amethyst to achieve a classic look. But if its energy and glamour that you’re looking for this Autumn- give yourself a boost during Fall showers with the new PANDORA “Stories” and “Ring upon Ring” designs. They’ve got gold rings, melanite necklaces and gemstone pendants. Mix and match designs from different collections; or vary your sizes. PANDORA necklaces come in a range of 60, 80 and
“Give yourself a boost with the new PANDORA ‘stories’ designs…” 100cm lengths – allowing you to produce your own intriguing tints and layers. You could even wear two or three necklaces at once to create a spectacular layered look! Although whether its summer, winter or anything in between- one essential design element that weathers all season changes are diamonds. Treat yourself to something stunning and lasting and check out what PANDORA has to offer. Its “Eye-Catching
Diamonds” range does exactly what it says on the tin (or, rather, the elegantly-labelled box it comes in): it ensures that your jewellery remains eye-catching and fabulous. And there’s no better time to get purchasing than now, since this month, as a new dimension to the lovepods earring collection, PANDORA launches a new, stylish stud with luxurious pavé diamond clusters. So what are you waiting for? PANDORA’s set of jewellery designs are both striking and flexible-so get creative! It’s time for your metamorphosis.
Find all store addresses at www.pandora.net
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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> likes of IWC, Chopard, H. Moser, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Perrelet, Rado, Roamer and Certina. Limited Edition pieces and accessories from Montblanc, Dunhill and Korloff also available. Pandora (C4) Złote Tarasy Shopping Centre, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222-0859. Also Klif, Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Promenada Shopping Centres. Info: www.pandora-jewelry.com/pl. This Hollywood favourite has made a splash all over the world. Create one-of-a-kind pieces using elements from Pandora’s superb-quality gold, silver and enamel bead and charm collections. Or choose from the signature earring, bracelet and necklace collections. Great choice for special gifts.
famous brands, such as: Seiko, Certina, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Guess and CK. W.Kruk (multiple locations) pl. Konstytucji 6, tel. 22 628-7534; pl. Trzech Krzyży 8, shopping centres. www.kruk.pl Poland’s premier jewelery and watch shop. The P3K location is also the home of Poland’s first Rolex boutique. Classic, quality pieces. Zielony Kot (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, tel. 22 826-5118, www.zielonykot.global.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00, Sat 11:00-17:00 An awesome array of costume and silver jewelry. Thousands of pieces to choose from in this tiny shop.
beauty & fragrances The Body Shop (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:00-20:00. Fresh and fabulous products. Pick up a Community Trade product and spend your money with a clear conscience.
COURTESY OF PANDORA
Dior Institute and Dessange Salon (D3) Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331-0808 or 022 331-4994 www.diorinstitut.com, wwww.dessange.pl This sleek boutique offers a full selection of Dior cosmetics and beauty products, along with a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff.
Sergio Rossi (E5) ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 629-9505 Sergio Rossi’s Warsaw boutique offers the newest styles, colors and trends in high-end footwear for women and men. Shoe Be Do (C12) Galeria Mokotów, tel. 22 541 3712. If you love designer shoes from the world’s top fashion houses, this is the place for you. An absolute wonderland of the latest styles from Michael Kors, Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Moschino, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and Veronique Brahnquino. Time Trend (multiple locations) ul. Głębocka 15, ul. Chmielna 35, ul. Jubilerska 1/3, ul. Puławska 427; Galeria Mokotów, Blue City, Arkadia, Złote Tarasy www.zibi.pl Time Trend (Zibi) is the biggest chain of watch showrooms in Poland with
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Fridge by yDE (B5) ul. Miedziana 11, tel. 22 628-0073, www.fridgebyyde.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. This ultra-chic cosmetics shop specializes in products with all-natural ingredients and essential oils, based on scents such as rose, honey, lemon, ginger. It’s stocked with scrubs, lotions and scents, plus products specially tailored for men and kids. It’s even got a treatment room for all the facial and exfoliating rubdown addicts. Gal i Lu Neoperfumeria (A1) ul. Mokotowska 63 (enter at ul. Wilcza), tel. 22 622-1013, email: sklep@galilu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat. 11:00-15:00. ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 828-3900, www.galilu.pl Open Mon-Fri 08.00-20.00; Sat 10.00-18:00. A jaunt to Gal i Lu is sheer indulgence for your olfactory receptors. Exclusive perfumes, aromatherapy oils and skincare products. Facial and body treatments. BOW 2009 “Best Beauty” Winner.
Gal i Lu Olfactory (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 628-3000, www.galilu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Here you can find unique scents for men and women, created in artisanal workshops in Italy, France and Spain, with the help of Galilu’s friendly shopgirls. Harnn & Thann (C4) Złote Tarasy Floor 1, tel. 22 222-0563, www.harnn.pl or www.thann.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:00-20:00. This awardwinning Asian line of skin care products is made of all-natural products, from herbs and fruits to essential oils and jasmine. Inglot (D3) Nowy Swiat 64, tel. 22 826 0313. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-17:00. The affordable answer for a hi-flash makeup case. Good selection of lashes, sparkly shadows and bronzers. Visit the flagship shop on Nowy Świat or at most shopping centres. Institut Clarins (E7) ul. Polna 3, tel. 22 875-9642, www.clarins.pl Open Mon-Fri 08:30-21:00; Sat 09:00-17:00. Offers a complete line of the deluxe skin-care and cosmetics brand. L’Occitane (multiple locations) Arkadia Shopping Centre, tel. 22 323-7084 Galeria Mokotów, tel. 22 541-3316, Promenada, tel. 22 611-7708, Reduta. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. At the L’Occitane boutique, one can indulge in unique skincare products inspired by the principles of phytotherapy and aromatherapy. Your Insider especially recommends the heavenly Immortelle line. Ideal for gifts. M.A.C. (C4) Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59 and Arkadia, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 697-916-170. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun. 10:0020:00. M.A.C has just opened a new shop in Arkadia. Fans of the brand’s bold colours and high quality products now have their choice of two chic shops in Warsaw. Quality Perfumeria (multiple locations) Hotel Marriott, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79; Centrum Handlowe Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, ul. Kędzierskiego 3B (Bemowo) www.perfumeriaquality.pl. Next to Gal i Lu, one of the best places in Warsaw to get top-shelf cosmetics and truly unique scents. From Annick Goutal, Bond 09, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Robert Piguet, Serge Lutens, Creed and even Courvoisier, this is the place to indulge your nose.
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Sabon (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 838-8883 www.sabon.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Here you’ll find body and skin care products based on Dead Sea minerals. Sklep Słoneczny (Żoliborz) ul. Słowackiego 21/23, tel. 22 833-2086 Open Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00 This little shop offers a stock of organic, all-natural cosmetics, from basic to high-end.
sports gear Burton Shop Adrenalina (A6) Blue city Shopping Centre, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, Level –1, tel. 22 311-7370 www.adrenalinasklep.pl/snowboard Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Stocks a solid collection of Snowboard equipment and fashion from top brands Burton, Anon and Gravis. Go Sport (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541-3811, www.go-sport.pl. A huge store with an extensive stock of sports equipment for (nearly) all disciplines. Intersport (various locations) Arkadia, Złote Tarasy and Sadyba Shopping Centres, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, ul. Złota 59, ul. Powsińska 31. Stock up on snowboard, biking, tennis and rollerblading gear for all seasons at this massive store. PKS Snowboard Shop (D10) Al. Niepodległości 121/123, tel. 22 845-0941. www.pksnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-14:00. Sells a range of snowboarding gear, from boards and bindings to jackets and goggles from cuttingedge brands.
home décor & interior design 3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651-5644 www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients. Agharta (E4) ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 828-2347,
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…TILL YOU DROP www.agharta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00. This multi-faceted shop sports exotic wares from Indonesia, Thailand and Zimbabwe too, everything from silk scarves and jewellery to stone figures and beautiful wood furnishings. The website has got an even bigger selection and is easily navigable.
traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Great for gifts. Eklada Home ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 22 412-5252, www.eklada.pl. A shop full of sweet home accents and gift ideas. Etro Home (E5) ul. Mokotowska 46. In the flagship Warsaw boutique of the Italian brand you’ll find the full array of decorative bed covers, lamps and vases, in addition to scents, jewelery and other fashion accessories.
All That Stuff *Solec 81 B, www.allthatstuff.pl. A new addition to the pre-loved goods market. Stocks quirly titles imported directly from the UK. Bed and Breakfast (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 838-5381 www.bedandbreakfast.net.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00. Offers a whole range of contemporary classics in interior design. Subtle colours and tasteful forms.
Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621-2420, www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.
Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636-7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.
Galeria N+U (Saska Kępa) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616-4073, www.nplusu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-17:00. This chic gallery/shop offers a selection of bright and colourful quality housewares from all over the world, even Mexican glass and Madagascar baskets. Great for gifts. Brands sold include Casa Bugatti, Ecoist and Franz Collection.
Cepelia (multiple locations) Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-15:00 ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, ul. Krucza 23, pl. Konstytucji 5 (D6), ul. Francuska 49 (H4), ul. Chmielna 8, www.cepelia.pl Specialises in Polish artistic handicrafts such as furniture, ceramics, sculpture, painting, jewelry and leatherware, this is the perfect place if you’re looking for traditional souvenirs. Ceramika MM by Maciej Szaciłło www.ceramikamm.com. Maciej Szaciłło’s work goes way beyond basic pottery. His primary output is functional art objects such as lamps and sinks, embellished with brilliant glazes, patterns, textures and three-dimensional reliefs.
COURTESY OF GALERIA N+U
* updates!
9/27/10
Glamstore & Glamstore Elite (2 locations) ul. Narbutta 82 (Mokotów), tel. 22 403-2300; ul. Marconich 3 (Wilanów), tel. 22 253-9753; www.glamstore.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00, Sat 11:00-15:00. These ultra-cool design shops feature the funkiest housewares and accessories, from Victorian-inspired mirrors, to gumball-shaped chairs and plush purple couches.
DDR Studio (E6) ul. Mokotowska 31, tel. 22 628-4060 Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00, Sat 12:00-18:00 A showroom and gallery of authentic vintage furnishings from the 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s. Domoteka (Targówek) Targówek Park Handlowy, ul. Malborska 31, tel. 22 334-4567, www.domoteka.pl ego&eco (D4) Nowy Swiat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels,
id Interior Design (Żoliborz) pl. Kozietulskiego 2A lok.2, mob. 0661-289833, www.idstudio.pl. By appointment. Run by Katja Sadziak, a London-trained designer, this design studio focuses on individual needs for individual clients, for either home or office.
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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l
Kartell (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 22 621-7874, www.kartell.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat 11:00-14:00. Poland’s only flagship store of the awardwinning Kartell design brand. The place to go for bright signature pieces from innovators Phillipe Starck and Maarten van Severen. Koło Antiques Market between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. Perfect for the casual browser or Eastern European history buff searching for antiques with a historical twist. A fun place to browse silver cutlery, military paraphernalia, pre-war crockery, chunky furniture and just about any bric-a-brac. Kuchniasklep at Blue City (A6) Level -1, tel. 801 080-027 or 022 425-3843, www.kuchniasklep.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Filled to the brim with the most exclusive housewares from all over the world – from utensils to ultra-sharp knives, energy-efficient “double-wall” pots and pans and a whole array of devices to transform a basic kitchen into a star. Also stocks gourmet deli products, condiments, teas and spices. Maison Creative (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622-3864. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. This gorgeous boutique features furnishings that boast luxury and class. From tasteful gilded mirrors, sparkling chandeliers and posh period lounges. Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629-0511, www.mokotowska71.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available. Muji (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.muji.com Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Located inside Arkadia, Muji offers a selection of reasonalby priced home accessories, furniture, sportswear, stationary and toys. Functional yet stylish, all designs
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18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00. This vast store/gallery located near the Sobieski Hotel is really kind of a design kingdom, from contemporary classics to funky.
follow the Japanese company’s minimalist philosophy. Tree *ul. Orange Majdan 85d & 63, Wiązowa (just past Stara Miłosna), tel. 22 795-1605, www.orangetree.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00. Looking some original furniture? Look no further than Orange Tree with pieces made from such wood like mango, teak or rosewood. All furniture is imported from India and range in size from large gates to small glass doorknobs. Recamiere (D5) ul. Wilcza 23, tel. 22 629-5085, www.recamiere.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 Brainchild of interior designers Ewa Breymeyer and Rafał Darski. Carries designer pieces from around the world and offers professional decorating services for home or business. Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817-1339, www.redonion.pl Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glasswares, sourced from all over the world. Red Onion’s new internet shopping site to make it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget. BOW 2009 “Best Home Decor” Winner. Robbe & Berking (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 10, tel. 22 627-1987. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. If you’re looking for top-quality silverware, you will certainly find it here – from hand crafted cutlery to engraved baby rattles. Scandinavian Living (D3) al. Piłsudskiego 21, Konstancin Jeziorna, tel. 22 754-6312, www.scandinavianliving.pl Open Tue. & Thur. 12:00-20:00; Wed. & Fri 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. The shop offers a “Scandinavian way of life,” with imported furniture, cushions, lamps, tableware and even clothes. Bright, colourful and homey. Spacestation (Żoliborz) Citadel at ul. Czujna, tel. 604 456 104, www.spacestation.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:0016:00. Stepping into Spacestation is actually very much like setting foot on Mars. Installed under the cavernous arches of an old armoury, this playful, funky furniture showroom is all about ultra-bright colours and forms that confound expectations. Zoom (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 816-2065, www.zoom.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-
COURTESY OF ZOOM
>> Impresja (Piaseczno) ul. Kruczkowskiego 8A, Piaseczno, tel. 22 757-2091, www.impresja.waw.pl Open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-17:00. A cluster of cosy cottage houses filled with authentic Polish crafts, ceramics and decorative items. Great for gifts.
kids’ stuff Bonpoint (D4) ul. Ordynacka 11. This little shop is devoted to beautiful quality clothing and accessories for little ones. Chicco (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall, Arkadia, www.chicco.pl Internationally-recognised as a chain that provides safe, educational and fun products for little ones such as cosmetics, clothes and toys, as well as accessories for pregnant women. Great for birthday presents. Fryzjerkowo *ul. Foksal 12/14, tel 22 827 27 44, www.fryzjerkowo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 sat 10:00-18:00. Warsaw’s first children’s hairdresser where warm and friendly staff will take care of your loved ones. Intimate and brightly painted space with lots of attractions. Also has a shop with toys, cosmetics, handmade jewelery and bilingual books. Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839-7560, www.kalimba.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-21:00. Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter, cafe and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids. Lullaby (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 22 839 1009;
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SHOPS Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> ul. Grzybowska 2, #5 From cashmere-cotton sweaters and blankets to educational toys and bilingual books, this eco-friendly shop is just the place to get stylish baby-gear. Mimbla (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, Arkadia This children’s clothing and bookstore offers quality essentials for your little prince or princess. And for the eco-minded parents, they even sell reusable organic nappies. Mothercare (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Arkadia, Reduta, Wola Park, Klif www.mothercare.com A widely recognised brand associated with moms, babies and kids. They offer a lot of decent maternity clothing and colourful items for kids, including pushchairs, car seats, clothing, toys and gifts. Niebieskie Migdały (E6) ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 629-1192, www.niebieskiemigdaly.com Absolutely amazing stuff for a child’s bedroom, ranging from cribs to lamps; from teddy bears to framed pictures. Petit Patapon at Złote Tarasy (C4) www.petitpatapon.com This shop offers beautifully gentle clothes for babies and toddlers. The collections are designed by a talented mother of five, Noelle Tutenuit. SMYK (D4) ul. Krucza 50 (corner of al. Jerozolimskie), tel. 22 551-4300; there are also numerous other stores, namely in all of Warsaw’s shopping malls. This chain harkens back to the Communist times in Poland, and although there is a wide selection of clothing and toys for kids.
bookshops American Bookstore (multiple locations) ul. Nowy Świat 61, tel. 22 827-4852,
ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 22 234-5637. Shopping centres: Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall, Arkadia, Blue City. Konstancin-Jeziorna: Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702-8633 www.americanbookstore.pl Stocks all the latest titles in English-language literature, from highbrow lit to blockbusters. Angielski Antykwariat/English Books (E3) University Library (BUW), ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552-7417, www.z2reki.pl. This secondhand bookshop has a warm, cozy atmosphere and it is full of books in English.
bookshop in one featuring books, albums, magazines and games for both kids and adults.
shopping malls Arkadia (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00
As You Like It (multiple locations) University Library (BUW), ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 826-6455; ul. Emilii Plater 4, tel. 22 625-2830 www.tmc.com.pl Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00. A treasurehouse of gift-worthy books and albums: from Herb Ritts’ larger-than-life photography collections to Phaidon’s Wallpaper guides.
Fashion House Outlet Centre ul. Puławska 42E, tel. 22 296-5022, www.fashionhouse.pl
Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31. te. 022 826-3294. Open Mon-Thurs 10:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 10:0024:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. A bookshop-cumteahouse with a brilliant ambiance and a wide array of great books in Polish and smaller selection of English-language books and albums.
Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00
Empik (multiple locations) ul. Marszałkowska 116/122 (Junior Mega), ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. 22 627-0650 and shopping centres throughout Warsaw. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-20:00. www.empik.com. The biggest media chain in Poland features its own foreign-literature section with a range of important titles from past and present. Numery Litery (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 622-0560 www.numerylitery.pl Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Another cafe and
Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389-8600 www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00
Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531-4500, www.klif.pl Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640-1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-19:00 Sadyba Best Mall (H11) ul. Powsińska 31, www.sadyba.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, www.chtargowek.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00
The welcomes people who know about good food and wine to review some of Warsaw’s finer restaurants. Please send a sample review (about 300 words) to: editor@warsawinsider.pl
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Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, www.wolapark.com Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00
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LIFESTYLE Lifestyle and beauty basics
THIS MONTH:
4 UPDATES *
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INDEX Accommodation ....................70 hotels ......................................70 apartments..............................72 Transportation ......................73 car rental .................................73 relocation companies .............73
travel agencies ........................73 taxis.........................................73 Health & Beauty....................75 spas & salons..........................75 fitness clubs............................76
Medical .................................77 private clinics .........................77 emergencies............................77 24h pharmacies ......................77 Pet Care .................................77 grooming & vets......................77
Community Contacts .............77 houses of worship ..................79 Education..............................80 Polish for foreigners................80 preschools ..............................80 schools....................................83
Insider’s Pick
COURTESY OF ZAMEK RYN
HOT FIND
Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn; tel. 87 429-7000 www.zamekryn.pl
G
othic castles are notorious for dungeons and ghosts. This is particularly true in the former hangouts of the Teutonic Knights, the brotherhood of monks recruited by a Polish king to give the strong-willed natives (conveniently labelled as pagans) a good thumping. The Order’s architectural prowess was lavished on Malbork Castle, which has a UNESCO World Heritage badge. But some smaller Polish fortresses were pretty banged up from wars and neglect, later rebuilt into museums like the Kwidzyn Castle which was
given the task of storing old agrarian tools and accoutrements of torture. The castle (zamek) in Ryn has met a more luxurious fate. Take one look at Hotel Zamek Ryn and the question of evil spirits vaporises. After the money-is-no-object facelift, the castle is so ‘21st century’ that medieval ghouls would feel totally out of place here and I’m certain, scout for dingier haunts. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company powwows, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries. The 164 rooms can sleep up to 350 guests. Ryn has no shortage of power photo op’s. The
spruced up facade, though stripped of Gothic angular features, provides a towering backdrop for group snapshots. The smart banquet hall with its three-storeyed ceiling and canopied by giant mock-tapestries will have your guests wow-ing. Time out can be had at the indoor pool lined with an aquarium along one wall or the two-laned bowling alley. Fresh air can be taken in a front courtyard, equipped with wooden decks, tables and benches for BBQ or beer sloshing. Ryn is a sleepy village located equidistant between Giżycko and Mikołajki, two of the main marina-resort towns northeast of Warsaw. Organizers of team-building exercises who do not want the participants to steal away can be assured that they have a captive audience here as the only open bar in the immediate vicinity is at the castle. Another vital factor for group events is the support from the hotel staff whose ‘service with a smile’ you can rely upon. Finally, the breakfast leaves no one with a complaint. The variety of edibles along with an omelette station are modern foregone conclusions, but there are thoughtful touches like warmed cups for individually made coffees (as opposed to the pre-made brew dispensed from a catering canister), constantly replenished trays of house-made pastries and chefs doing their walkabouts to inspect that the spread is maintained up to expectations. If there’s one thing to whinge about: the corridors don’t have movement-sensors and the lights can suddenly time out… or was I wrong about the architectural preferences of ghosts after all? (K.C.) >>
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Accommodation
Some hotel prices might not include VAT
APARTMENTS, HOTELS
top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels
(B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356-5555 www.hilton.com Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in worldclass hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558-1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, warsaw.regency.hyatt.com Venti-Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328-8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor. Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 5511000, www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531-6000, www.mamaison.com Standard room: €250. Beautiful hotel and world-class service in the Old Town area. Award-winning La Rotisserie restaurant and outdoor patio. Swimming pool, sauna, open 24h (only for hotel guests). Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630-6306, fax 22 830-0311, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł.528 (weekdays), zł.376 (weekend). Gym and swimming pool. The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584-8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. 24-hour fitness centre for guests only.
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Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450-6100. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321-8888. Single & double rooms zł.420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.
Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657-8011, sof.victoria@orbis.pl, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95-200. Swimming pool now open to public. Westin (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450-8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.
4-star hotels Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579-1000, hotel@sobieski.com.pl, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.
www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Email: H3383@accor.com. Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. Wellness centre and sauna. Number 12 Boutique Hotel and Spa ul. Myśliwiecka 12, tel. 22 628-0073 www.number12.pl. Luxury spa and two period apartments. Daily rate €130-160. Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318-2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only. Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456-8000, www.airporthotel.pl Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, gym. Scottish Ranch Skarboszowo (outskirts) Skarboszowo 30, tel. 22 613-889 www.szkockieranczo.pl. Single and double rooms zł.210-330. Suites and deluxe apartments zł.350-490. Horseback riding, fine dining and other outdoor activities.
3-star hotels Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697-3999, holiday@orbis.pl, www.holiday-inn.com Single room: €100.58 (weekend), €124.12 (weekdays), double room: €120.91 (weekend), €144.45 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.
Castle Inn (D1) Castle Square, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425-0100, castleinn@castleinn.pl, www.castleinn.pl. Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.279-430. Breakfast: zł.20.
Holiday Inn Warszawa Józefów ul. Telimeny 1, tel. 22 778-3000, reservations@holiday.aquila.pl, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Single & double room: €140-150, breakfast included.
Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575-6000, e-mail: nov.airport@orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.
Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583-2100, www.orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €78-112.
Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528-0300, www.orbis.pl Single & double rooms: €60-135. Fitness room, Finnish sauna, gym.
Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650-0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend) Fitness centre.
MDM Hotel (D6), pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339-1600, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Single & double rooms: €60-130.
Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.: 22 596-00-00,
Hotel Belwederski (E8), ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840-4011, 22 684-
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POLISH YOUR POLISH:
PARKING PO POLSKU BY JAY MARTIN
ou may be surprised to find that rules apply to parking in Poland – although how well they’re followed is another story. And while ignorance may often be bliss, not being able to read the signs won’t get you out of a ticket. So, here’s some information that might help. White-on-blue ‘P’ signs indicate parking areas. If under the ‘P’ you see the word ‘płatny’ (paid), then you’ll need to pay at the machine and display the receipt on your dashboard. ‘P’ signs marked ‘koniec’ indicate the end of the parking area. A blue circle with a red cross means no parking. However, additional information under these signs can include ‘nie dotyczy…’, which indicates an exception where the sign doesn’t apply. So ‘nie dotyczy CD’ means cars with diplomatic plates are excepted, and ‘nie dotyczy zatoki’ means you can park in the zatoki (bays) only. ‘Nie dotyczy chodnika’ means you can park on the chodnik which is the footpath or sidewalk. This is not to be confused with chłodnik, a cold, cucumber-based soup. You might get some laughs if you ask if you can park on the soup, but unless your parking inspector has an exceptional sense of humour, you might end up with a ticket anyway.
Y
PIOTR WYSKOK
Parking made easy with a handy guide to avoiding the Meter Maid
Other signs might tell you that certain restrictions ‘obowiązuje’ (apply) only at certain times: usually ‘w godz. …’ (short for w godzinach or during the hours of…); ‘pon-pt’ (poniedziałekpiątek or Monday to Friday); or ‘dni robocze’ or ‘powszednie’ which mean business days. Parking is commonly ‘płatne pon-pt. w godz. 8-18’, and bezpłatne (free) at other times,
“You might get some laughs if you ask if you can park on the soup…” including soboty, niedziele, and święta (Saturdays, Sundays and holidays) – although now you can check for yourself. Certain parking spaces are also marked as being ‘dla…’ or ‘tylko dla…’ (‘for… only for…’) showing for whom they are reserved. Most commonly it’s people with disabled parking permits, but others include mieszkanców (residents). And if you see ‘nie parkować’ … then it’s pretty clear that parking is ‘nie wolno’ or not allowed!
If, like me, you’re constantly scrounging around in the bottom of your bag for change for the parking meter, you might want to consider loading your Warszawska Karta Miejska (Warsaw City Card) for parking. You can get a card at the Punkt Obsługi Pasażerów ZTM (public transport Passenger Service Centre) under the Centrum metro station. You’ll need a passport-sized photo and ID as cards are personalised. You can then load your card for parking at various service points, including the Centrum Obsługi Klienta – pavilion 1000E at the Świętokrzyska metro station. The sentence you’ll need is “Proszę doładować kartę na parking” (pro-sheh doh-wad-oh-vach kart-eh na parking) – “Please load my card for parking.” Once it’s loaded, put the card in the slot on the meter, push the ‘+’ button for the time you want, and choose ‘akceptuj’ (or ‘anuluj’ to cancel). The machine will print your ticket and tell you your balance after each use. Hey presto, you’ll never be caught short of change again – especially important since ‘parkometr nie wydaje reszty’ means, you guessed it, ‘the meter doesn’t give change’! I’m just sorry there’s no magic trick to finding a parking spot.
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> 2260, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Single room: zł.240, double room: zł.280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri.-Mon.). Breakfast included.
budget hotels Kyriad Prestige (D5) ul. Towarowa 2, 00-811 Warszawa warszawa@kyriadprestige.com.pl www.kyriadprestige.com Single & double rooms from €70. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.
Warsaw Apartments ul. Augustówka 9, tel. 22 550-4550, www.warsawapartments.com.pl Warsaw Star Apartments Short-term rentals ul. Słomińskiego 19/51, mob. 509-792-272, www.warsawstarapartments.pl Apartment rentals for short-term stays in attractive locations across Warsaw.
apartments & real estate top hotels around Poland Kraków E-Expert WARSAW REAL ESTATE & MORTAGE ADVISE
E-Expert Nieruchomości Kredyty Inwestycje ul. Kopernika 28/1, tel. 606-630-300, email: info@e-expert.org, www.e-expert.org Real-estate advisory services for rent and purchase of premium properties across Warsaw, as well as investment advisory for developments across Poland and mortgage servicing for locals and expats. Holland Park Apartments (E5) ul. Książęca 17/19, tel. 22 584-5900, www.hollandparkapartments.pl InterContinental Warszawa ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328-8800, www.apartments-warsaw.com The hotel offers 76 extended-stay apartments that offer the luxury of a private apartment with all the fivestar amenities of a world-class hotel. Apartments start at €85 per day for a studio and from €120 for two-bedrooms. Housekeeping, room service and concierge services included. K&L Luxury Properties ul. Sarmacka 15/100, tel. 791 089-656 www.libner.pl, email: president@libner.pl Caters to expat and temporary-stay clients looking for high-end properties in Warsaw’s best residential districts and communities. Old Town Apartments (D1) ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14 apt. 2, tel. 22 887-9800/01/02. P&O Apartments www.apartments.officemedia.pl booking@officemedia.pl, mob. 0506-130-885. Apartments for those people who appreciate peace, independency and privacy. Houses, Apartments, Suites, Flats, for days, weeks or months in Warsaw. Short-term and long-term Holiday Rentals. The service is available in Polish, English, French, and Spanish.
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5-star hotels
Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421-4865 single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar. Grand Hotel ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. 12 424-0800 single & double rooms €177-189. Sauna, fitness centre, massage, library, hiking.
Gym, swimming pool, tennis court, beach volleyball, private beach, marina, spa.
Poznań 5-star hotels Sheraton Poznań Hotel ul. Bukowska 3/9, tel. 61 655-2000 single and double rooms €177-194 Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & wellness centre, massage, jacuzzi, indoor swimming pool
4-star hotels Ibb Andersia Hotel Plac Andersa 3, tel. 61 850-5269. Single & double rooms: €119-148. Sauna, fitness centre, solarium, massage, jacuzzi, turkish/steam bath, hammam, indoor swimming pool
Tri-city Dwór Oliwski ul. Bytowska 4, 80-328 Gdańsk, tel. 58 5547000, www.dwor-oliwski.pl. Single suites from €196, Junior suites from €290, Presidential suite from €310. Offers bike rental, golf, Nordic Walking, and SPA stocked with swimming pool, steam room, dry sauna, fitness room.
4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424-3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207 Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.
Mazury
Kamienica Gotyk ul. Mariacka 1, 80-833 Gdańsk, tel. 516 141-133, 58 301-8567, reservation@gotykhouse.eu, www.gotykhouse.eu. Single & double rooms zł.190-310.
Gałkowo Hunting Estate Gałkowo 46, Ruciana Nida, www.galkowo.pl, tel. 604-952-732, 608-033-840. Single and Double cabins: zł.100-135. Old-fashioned country estate features horse-back riding, sailing, swimming, traditional dinners prepared by one of Poland’s most famous chefs.
Grand Hotel Sopot by Sofitel ul. Powstańców Warszawy 12/14, 81-718 Sopot, tel. 58 520-6000, fax 58 520-6099, www.sofitel.pl. Double rooms zł.675-845. Suites zł.765-1,025 (rates vary according to season). Newly-renovated landmark hotel offers premium service, plus wellness centre, swimming pool, steam room, dry sauna, thermal bath, gym, spa.
Galeria 69 Dorotowo 38, tel. 89 513-6481, www.hotelgaleria69.pl, Singles, doubles, apartments: zł.250-1330. Bright-white, modern interiors in posh lakefront resort. Sauna, golf course, fishing, canoeing, hiking, cycling, turkish/steam bath, indoor swimming pool.
Zakopane
Mercure Mrongovia Resort & Spa ul. Gliżyczka 6, Mrągowo, tel. 89 743-3100 www.mrongovia.hotel.pl. Single & double rooms: zł.363-381. Spa, face & body treatments, pool, watersports & fitness. Weekend and holiday packages available. Siedlisko Morena Jeziorowskie 11a, 19-330 Stare Juchy, tel. 87 619-9999, www.siedliskomorena.pl
Belvedere ul. Droga Do Białego 3, tel. 18 202-1200 single & double rooms: €129-155. Sauna, fitness centre, spa & wellness centre, billiards, table tennis, darts, jacuzzi, hiking, cycling, bowling, turkish/steam bath, hammam, squash, mini golf, indoor swimming pool.
Wrocław 5-star hotels Radisson SAS Hotel ul. Purkyniego 10, tel. 71 375-0000. Single & double bedrooms €106-164. Sauna, fitness
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TRANSPORTATION 4-star hotels Qubus Hotel Wrocław www.qubushotel.com, ul. Św. Marii Magdaleny 2, tel. 71 797-9800. Single & double bedrooms €117-130. Sauna, fitness centre, swimming pool.
Holiday Inn Wrocław ul. Piłsudskiego 49/57, tel. 71 787-0000. Single & double bedrooms: €152. Sauna, fitness centre, massage.
relocations
Transportation GETTING AROUND
car rental Avis (C5) tel. 22 572-6565, fax 022 572-6566, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650-4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801-120010, rezerwacje@avis.pl, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650-2896; mob. 691-411-130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621-1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500-1620, 800-143-789; rezerwacje@hertz.com.pl warszawa@hertz.com.pl
Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878-3539, expat@expressrelocations.com, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716-5566, fax 22 716-5567, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl
Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511-1550, 22 511-1555, fax 22 511-1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650-2031, fax 022 650-2032, www.sixt.pl
Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, 05-500 Piaseczno, tel. 22 701-7171, fax 22 701-7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com Interdean relocation services company that’s celebrating its 50th year of operation. It has 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitates easing the transition across borders.
Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602-475-355, www.trustrentacar.pl
Move One Relocations tel. 22 630-8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com
relocation companies
travel agencies
AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, 05-500 Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077, ags@agspoland.com, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com
Neckerman Call Center: tel. 804-200-111, ul. Modlińska 8, warszawa.auchan@neckermann.pl, tel. 22 811-9010; pl. Konstytucji 1 (D6), tel. 22 6224022, warszawa.centrum@neckermann.pl; ul. Chmielna 98 paw. 8 (D5), tel. 22 620-6777, chmielna98@neckermann.pl; ul. Kredytowa 2 (D3), kredytowa2@neckermann.pl, tel. 22 8275916; al. KEN 92, tel. 22 446-1314, ursynow@neckermann.pl
*
Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847-8878, mob. 514 643-286, email: warsaw@bestorelocations.com www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients. CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737-7200, fax 22 737-7277, info@corstjens.pl, www.corstjens.com Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894-5929 or 22 5782093 warsaw@crownrelo.com www.crownrelo.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670-4280, expat@duxconsulting.com.pl, www.duxconsulting.com.pl
Orbis Travel The largest tour and travel agency in Poland with numerous locations: pl. Konstytucji 4 (D6), tel. 22 628-8222, orbis.konstytucji@pbp.com.pl; ul. Puławska 31, tel. 22 646-2772, orbis.pulawska@pbp.com.pl; ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650-4423, orbis.okecie@pbp.com.pl; Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 311-7321, tur.bluecity@pbp.com.pl
taxis MPT tel. 22 1919 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644 or SMS at 600 009-644
www.bestorelocations.com warsaw@bestorelocations.com tel: 606 405 200 >>
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POLAND’S MOTORCYCLE CULTURE
BY AMERICA MARTIN
America Martin gets initiated into Warsaw's “biker brotherhood” s a child, I used to sneak into the garage at home to play with my dad’s motorcycle, a dark green Honda 250. By the time I was eleven, I was sneaking the motorcycle out of the house. When my father found out, he grounded me for a month and later sold the motorcycle, hoping it would put an end to my escapades. Which it did temporarily. In high school, I began dating a boy who owned a motorcycle and have continued to gravitate toward motorcyclists ever since. It’s inevitable, perhaps, that youngsters should keep their parents on edge. Since relocating to Warsaw, I’ve learned to recognise Polish biking culture, which fires up without fail every spring with the first hint of sunshine. I welcome the loud “vroom-vroom” of motorcycles that filters in through my window; music to some, horrendous noise to others. Come summer, the roads of Poland are crawling with bikers and in this country motorcyclists are passionate
DRAWING BY PIORT WYSKOK
about their machines. Most cardrivers dislike the noise and speed which these powerful bikes generate. This in turn may be responsible for the creation of what could be termed a “Road Brotherhood”. Indeed, Polish motorcycle-owners
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GOPHI/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
A
function as an extended family. This message of camaraderie is conveyed by the special salute that passing riders have for one another, a kind of ‘low-five’ or sideways “V” sign. As one motorcyclist put it, “whoever rides a motorcycle is my friend.” Someone’s passion for motorcycles can be inexplicable to those who don’t share it. Advocates liken it to something of a religious experience. To non-bikers, the romance of it can at least be understood if one considers how on-the-road sagas such as “Easy Rider” would fare being remade with mini-vans. When The Hard Rock Cafe first opened in Warsaw, bikers parked their choppers there on Sundays. The first few times, I stopped and gawked. It was a taste of California; a reminder of my youth, when I would ride up and down the coast highways between Mexico and the US, wild and free, with the breeze whipping past me. Now as an adult in Poland, I caused more than one eyebrow to rise when I started dating a motorcyclist. Riding at 160 kilometres per hour is the closest thing to flying I have experienced. It is
exhilarating and addictive. After our first outing together, my boyfriend complimented me on how good a “backpack” I am. “Darling,” I gloated, “I learned to ride when I was eleven.” Confident about my biking abilities, on our next vacation we covered 3000 kilometres in six days just for the heck of it, stopping at roadside inns when night fell or camping at the foot of the Dolomites once we crossed the Italian border. We took only a tent, sleeping bags and enough clothes for a week. With its powerful engine and light body, our Honda Africa Twin can now easily carry two full saddlebags and whatever is stashed in the back compartment. Unimaginative creature that he is, my boyfriend adamantly opposed the idea of my using these excursions as an excuse for some cross-cultural shopping. Although the boots I bought in Italy did indeed have to stay behind due to lack of storage space, the experience hasn’t deterred me. In a couple of weeks, I plan to go again and this time, there will be plenty of room in my saddlebag for all the damage to the wallet that I plan to inflict during our trip.
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spas & salons AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355-100, www.tuina.pl Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy. Atelier 1 (E4) ul. Kopernika 13 Apt. #1, www.ateliern1.eu, tel. 22 826-3867 . Open daily 9:00-20:00. Atelier 1 is a luxurious salon that offers salon, spa, manicure, pedicure and even fashion styling services. Ambasada Urody (D5) ul. Wilcza 9, tel. 22 621-5869, mob. 606-909009, www.ambasadaurody.pl. Open: Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. This salon specialises in treatments for men and offers facials, full body treatments including laster hair removal. A quaint and indulgent refuge. Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789-2016, www.beautysecret.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-16:00 Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered. Bella Salon (D3) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 625-3300, www.belladerm.pl. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:0016:00 Bella Salon offers a range of hi-tech, highend treatments for perfecting that beach body all year round. The laser hair removal treatment is guaranteed to eliminate unwanted hair forever. BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. Brunette Hair & Nail Spa (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 412-5510, www.brunette.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:0021:00. A chic little boutique in the midst of office building central offers precise manis, pedis and salon services. Friendly staff and personalised service. Collagena Botox Express (multiple locations) CH Złote Tarasy, ul Złota 59, Floor 2, tel. 22 2220280. Open daily 10:00-22:00. Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. 22 455-5180. Open Mon-Sat 9:0019:00 www.collagena.pl. The Collagena clinics
offer minimally invasive procedures like Botox injections and lip plumping. The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622-6362. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:0017:00. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-of-the-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. Day Spa Zen (A1) ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 322-5055. www.dayspazen.com.pl This urban retreat is thoroughly modern, sure to polish every inch of a tired and aching body. BOW 2009 “Best Spa” Winner. Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331-0808 or 22 331-4994 www.diorinstitut.com, wwww.dessange.pl This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs. Divine Beauty and Wellness Studio Al. Niepodległości 217, #1; tel. 728 812777 www.divine.com.pl. At Divine you can choose from a large number of facials, body scrubs and other good stuff for your skin – all made from 100% organic ingredients. Ayurveda massage as well as manicure and pedicure is also offered. This is a peaceful haven for those in need of some pampering. By appointment only. Mention you’re a Warsaw Insider reader for a 10% discount! Dotyk Spa (B8) ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898-7272, www.dotykspa.pl Open Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00; Sat 09:00-18:00. With numerous packages, treatments and exotic massages Dotyk Spa has something for everybody. Ericson Labaratoire Anti-Ageing Centre (Ursynów) Galeria Ursynów (Metro Natolin), Al. KEN 36, lok. 105, tel. 22 436-7867. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-17:00. Dr. Jola Czarkwiani provides excellent consultation services and treatments for a variety of needs: from chemical peels and botox to IPL hair removal and photo rejuvenation. Escape Salon & Day Spa (H11) ul. Limanowskiego 11 (at the corner of ul. Powsińska), www.escapesalon.pl. tel. 22 642-3358. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00;
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Sat 09:00-17:00. Escape’s skin care programs keep you looking radiant, and body treatments to keep you looking fit and firm. Hair-à-Porter Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558-1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-17:00. Don’t be fooled by the bare-bones decor, the friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women. La Perla Cosmetic Clinics ul. Łowicka 21b/1 tel. 22 856-5535; ul. Wilcza 22a, tel. 22 625-7000; Panorama shopping centre, ul. Witosa 31, 1st floor. www.laperla.pl Open 9:00-21:00. This full service clinic offers a whole gamut of cosmetic procudures: anti-aging, rejuvenation and plastic surgery based on the latest in global technology. Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622-9428. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. You can be assured to spend a few blissful hours here and then walk out looking incredible. Łaźnia Klub (E12) ul. Puławska 119, tel. 22 852-2219, www.klublaznia.pl Open daily from 10:00-22:00. Great massages (try the Lomi Lomi massage if you’re undecided), body treatments, a solarium, a sauna, beauty treatments and a nail salon. Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater Street 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 3288643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” – which essentially incorporate Eastern philosophies into their services – such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages. The Pedicure Spa by OPI (A3) ul. Chłodna 48 (corner of ul. Wronia), tel. 22 4093085, www.pedicure-spa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0021:00, Sat 9:00-18:00. The first professional American-styled nail spa in Warsaw. Peggy Sage (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826-2374. Open Mon-Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-16:00. Longknown for its classic manicures and pedicures, Peggy Sage also offers face and body treatments. Royal Vital Salon & Spa (B4) ul. Sienna 93, tel. 22 890-8395. www.royalvital.pl The latest treatments in cosmetic treatments with or without surgery for rejuventation, slimming and toning.
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Salon MEN (Stokłosy) al. K.E.N 83, tel. 22 401-1050. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-18:00. Beauty care strictly for men. Facials, depilation, grey coverage, hair growth stimulation, manicure and pedicure.
Established in 2009, the group welcomes both men and women for training sessions, which are divided into different levels of ability and aimed at both children and adults. Training classes have complementary Maculele music sessions.
Sharley Health and Beauty Institute (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 73/75, tel. 22 636-4664/6, www.sharley.pl. Elegant décor and friendly staff. They offer make-up application, styling, hairdressing, manicures and pedicures, aesthetics medicine, laser treatments and intensive body treatments.
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Terra Spa (D6) ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 622-1417, www.terraspa.pl, spa@terraspa.pl Terra Spa offers facials, classical and relaxing massages, manicures and pedicures. Warszawianka Centrum Kongresowe Hotel Wellness & SPA Jachranka 77, tel. 22 768-9000, www.warszawianka.pl Hotel Warszawianka is located 35 km from the centre of Warsaw, and offers many attractions such as an Aqua Park and wellness spa.
fitness clubs Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851-0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance. Dharma Yoga www.dharmayoga.pl. Offers classes in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630-6306 www.holmesplace.pl Open Mon-Thur 06:0022.00, Sat & Sun 9:00-21:00. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. Check website for membership info. BOW 2009 “Best Health Club” Winner.
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Warsaw Capoeira Locations Vary, www.capoeira.net.pl.
Salsa Libre ul. Solec 38, tel 22 458 2445, www.salsalibre.pl Energizing, well-located and complete with a laid-back cafe/ bar serving cocktails and snakcs, Salsa Libre is a great place to have some Latinofuelled fun. Classes run from 10:00-22:00. Magic Trainers We provide personal training for health and beauty for individuals and small groups. We also train individuals and groups in selfdefense. For more info call 602-416102 Pure Health & Fitness Blue City Shopping Centre, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, level 4, tel. 22 311-7555, Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 379-7777, www.purepoland.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 8:00-20:00. Modern equipment, multigyms, free weights, a range of classes, tidy locker rooms, steamroom, sauna for a really good price. RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328-8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 06:0023:00. Sat & Sun. 07:00-21:00. Top-class facilities and equipment, as well as private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool affords a panoramic view of the city. Free for hotel guests. Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321-8888. Open Mon-Fri 06:00-22:00, Sat & Sun 08:0021:00. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes. zł.100 per day. Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450-6100, www.sheraton.com/warsaw. Open Mon-Fri 6:0022:00, Sat & Sun 8:00-20:00 Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł.3,420/year.
World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl. Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00. Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, World Class Health Academy offers all the fitness services you need, including a gym with trainers and a swimming pool.
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private clinics AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355-100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies. Diagnosis, acupuncture, ancient healing massage, physiotherapy. English, German spoken. Aster Med – The Orthodonitics & Implants Centre (H12), ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858-0354/55, 22 858-1519, www.astermed.pl Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654-2116, 22 654-5484, www.austriadent.pl.
22 632-0181, www.citident.pl
psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 0606-518-151.
Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823-7222, dentalux@detalux.pl, www.dentalux.pl Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl General number for information and to schedule an appointment: 022 311-7777. Eurodental ul. Andersa 15, tel. 95-93, mob. 502-475-014, ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857-0088, www.eurodental.pl
Medicover Center Atrium, al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 39, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 41 95 96 or 804 229-596, corporate center 22 592-7000. www.medicover.com. The Rehabilitation Center is at ul. Podchorążych 35 Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403-8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30. High-standard orthodontics and aesthetic dentistry.
Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103 lok 4, tel. 22 566-2222, www.damian.com.pl
Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458-7000, cmed@cm-lim.com.pl, www.cmlim.pl
Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 40 80; ul. Puławska 257, floor 1, suite 71, Melody Park, tel. 22 24 12 444, www.cpp.eu
Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24h hotline: 801-800-808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332-2888, www.luxmed.pl
Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862-4770,
Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level
emergencies Ambulance: tel. 999 and 112 for mobiles Police: tel. 997 Fire: tel. 998
24-hour pharmacies al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620-0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834-5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 22 822-2891. ul. Puławska 39
Pet Care VET CARE & GROOMING Dog Walking Service Need help walking your dog in Warsaw? To discuss your requirements and arrange a free trial walk, call Ken on 505 629284.
insurance services for pets at a central locations in Mokotów and Wola. For Ursynów area, contact the Natolin veterinary clinic www.natwet.pl.
Elwet – Pro Animal Veterinary Care www.elwet.pl Provides quality care and
Piękny Pies (H4) ul. Szwoleżerów 7 #33, tel. 604 264-543
www.pieknypies.pl. Quality pet grooming services in Saska Kępa. Provides pups with show-worth looks for reasonable prices. Psi Koci Fryzjer (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 73, tel. 509 134-468 Quality on-site pet grooming services.
Community Contacts GET CONNECTED Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3. Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month). Contacts: Zack, tel. 22 635-4487; Bill, tel. 22 620-0473 and Izabela, tel. 506 018-696.
American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2,
1st floor; tel/fax: (22) 827-60-00; e-mail: amnesty@amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob. 0603-378-567. >>
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> The Atelier Foundation (E4) Atelier Foksal, ul. Foksal 11, second floor. The Atelier Foundation offers drawing, painting and sculpture classes, art history lectures, exhibitions and open air sessions for adults and kids in English. For more information: tel. 22 826-8813, 022 826-9589, www.atelier.org.pl Australians in Warsaw The group meets once a month for drinks and a chat. For more information: darren.haines-powell@ifgroup.com.pl Awangarda promotes the integration of people with disabilities into mainstream society. For more information, please contact Małgorzata Samborska at e-mail: m.samborska@awangarda.org.pl or visit Awangarda’s website at www.awangarda.org.pl Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi. Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Mixing the best of soccer and rugby and faster than both, Cumann Warszawa GAA, Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 0518-425-587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail.com Dharma Yoga Dharma Yoga studio now offers classes in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl. Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl. “Dr Clowns” volunteers provide Patch Adamsstyle entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. To volunteer or make a donation, call 022 854-0501, 02 or 03. English Speaking Alcoholics Anonymous Meetings every week. For more information, log on to www.aa-europe.net or contact: Zach on 22 635-4487.
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The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” Since 2008, E.S.E.B.O.P. has been attending to the personal needs of foreign business decision-makers who are frequently parachuted into leadership positions in Poland without segregating these persons into categories based on their nationality or business industry. This organisation seems to work best for such a niche group of people as the growing corporate membership supports. For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346-406. European Social Democrats in Poland Organised by Labour International, the German SPD and the French PS. Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624-0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@assemblee-afe.fr Expats-in-Poland.com, Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl Foundation for Poland is a charity organisation that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502-198-782. Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. It is a public benefit company and a non-government organization entitled to receive 1% of income tax from tax-payers in Poland. To contribute to this charity, contact Patrycja Wróbel, Management Board Member, ul. Kickiego 1,
04-373 Warszawa; tel. 22 517-1770, email: info@fdf.pl, www.f-df.pl. Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, 05-500 Piaseczno, tel. 22 825-0390, e-mail: mikolaj@mikolaj.org.pl The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for oer ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). Info: www.mikolaj.org.pl. German Speaking Women’s Treff is for all women who speak German or would like to improve it. For further information call Grażyna at 605-580-521 or send an e-mail to: GermanSpeaking@web.de. Habitat for Humanity International (F11) is a non-profit organisation that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642-9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl The Institute for the Realization of Self Provides training in developing intuition, clairvoyance, self-realization, astral traveling etc. Free spiritual healing sessions every Wednesday. Founded and led by Antoni Przechrzta, member of the National Federation of Spiritual Healers. tel. 607 387 737, www.uzdrawianie.com International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45 every Tuesday at 12:00. Note: the last Tuesday of each month, meetings are held at 19:00. For info: 601 897 731. International Women’s Group Unites expat women in Warsaw through cultural, education and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held twice a month on the first and third Monday. For info: iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com. Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845-0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members, along with help getting connected in Warsaw.
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COMMUNITY The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626-8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl or sprzedaz@schelleracademy.com.pl Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-andeat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501-093-691 for more information. Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osinski at a.osinska@mabor.com.pl. Mums & Tots brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com New Europe Writers Ink (D5) is a fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Contact: tel. 22 622-2625, email: biuro@pol-in.pl, web: www.pol-in.pl. Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw or in for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535-566) or Robert (mob. 791 667657) or see the group page on Facebook.
experience necessary but fluent English proficiency is required. A way to meet new friends and have fun playing games. Info: Facebook group: http://tiny.cc/zaffa or CreativeCowboy@yahoo.com.
Italian ul. Smoluchowskiego 1, every Sunday, 12:00.
Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered (since 2002) charity, founded and run by Kimberly Reed. Contact Dominik Granada at: mob. 0668-031-667, talizman@talizman.org, www.talizman.org
French (D8) ul. Rakowiecka 61, every Sunday, 10:45.
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Anglican and Episcopal Church meets every Sun. at 10:00 in Res Sacra Miser Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62). Sunday school during service, refreshments after service. For more information: Rev. Robert Campbell, mob. 602-782-497 assistant.chaplain@anglicanchurch.pl, or visit www.anglicanchurch.pl
Spanish (D8) ul. Melsztyńska 12, every Sunday, 10:40.
German (E5) ul. Wilcza 6, the second and the fourth Sunday of the month, 10:00.
Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The intention is to bring art and music to a wider audience through an intimate approach. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. To request an invitation or for further information regarding the programmes or the mailing list, please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or 502 965 353. Toastmasters International (C4) Members practice and learn communication skills and public speaking in an enjoyable, inspiring and supportive environment. Meetings every Wednesday, 19.00 at Palace of Culture 12th floor (premises of Collegium Civitas). Entrance from ul. Marszałkowska side. Visit www.toastmasters.org.pl or call Etan at 696-292-451 to learn more.
Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8 (Praga), tel. 500 270-990. Services are held in Polish and English. Sun 11:00 (Sunday School and Evangelistic service) and Thurs 19:00. For more information contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 500-270-990, e-mail: paulesock@yahoo.com. www.gbc-ekb.com
Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson by mob. 606 247-347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.com.
houses of worship English ul. Radna 14, every Sunday, 11:30 (CCD, every Sunday, 10:30)
Beit Warszawa: The Progressive Jewish Congregation Friday Shabbat services at 19:00, weekly lectures, activities and Holiday events. For more information: 22 885-2638; fax 22 885-8982, e-mail: office@beit.org.pl, www.beit-warszawa.org.pl Chabad-Lubavitch ul.Słomińskiego 19, tel. 22 637-5352, www.chabad.org.pl The Outreach Activities of the Chabad-Lubavitch center include adult education classes, Jewish youth programs and a Talmud Torah. The center’s Glatt Kosher Restaurant offers daily Glatt Kosher meals.
TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl. www.travelfriends.pl.
Masses held in different languages in Warsaw: Role Playing Group in Warsaw International English-speaking group in Warsaw, mostly foreign professionals, play tabletop Dungeons & Dragons fortnightly. No
The Bahá’i Community of Warsaw (D5) Centrum Narodowe/National Centre, ul. Lanciego 13, tel. 22 353-3717. For more information: www.bahai.org.pl or bahai@bahai.org.pl
International Christian Fellowship (E10) Interdenominational services Sunday 17:00 at ul. Puławska 114. For more information: Pastor Larry Huddlestons at mob. 607-309-490, office tel. 22 844-7996, contact@icf-pl.org, >> www.icf-pl.org
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> Nożyk Synagogue (C4) ul. Twarda 6, tel. 22 620-0676, 22 620-4324, www.jewish.org.pl. Services Mon.-Fri. 8:00 and at sunset, Sat. and Sun. 9:30 and at sunset. Shabbat dinners Friday at the Youth Centre. Polish Christian Church: Christian Fellowship “North” (F1) Provides services translated into English and German. Sunday school for children aged 3-13, baby and toddler care, youth meetings. For more information contact Monika Sacewicz at 501-516-589 or www.schpolnoc.pl
St. Paul, the Apostle of the Nations, English Speaking Roman Catholic Parish ul. Radna 14 at the Church of St. Vincent de Paul Charitable Society, Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Miraculous Medal. No services Monday. Contact Father Wiesław Dawidowski, mob. 600-384-916, chaplain@catholic.li.pl Warsaw Diamond Way Buddhist Center “The Stupa House”, ul. Ożarowska 65/67. Open meditations are held on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 20:00, Fridays and Sundays at 19:00. In addition, every Friday at 18:00 meetings are held for
anyone interested in Diamond Way Buddhism. For more information: www.stupahouse.pl, tel. 22 877-3408, stupahouse.buddyzm.pl Warsaw International Church (C2) ul. Miodowa 21 near the Old Town, tel. 22 842-2351, pastor@wic.org.pl, www.wic.org.pl. “A Mainline Church for Today.” English-speaking worship and Sunday School for children.
To be listed in this section, please fax your info to 22 639-8569 or e-mail insider@warsawinsider.pl
Education PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS
polish for foreigners Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629-9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals. Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pffwarsaw.com, email: info@pff-warsaw.com Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company
or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles. The Centre for Polish Studies (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 20, room 507, tel. 22 3803036 and mob. 0605 205-882, e-mail: www.learnpolish.edu.pl. Learn the basics or polish your Polish at the Centre, which specializes in teaching Polish language and culture to foreigners. Centrum Języka Polskiego (E5) ul. Mokotowska 35, tel. 22 626-9671 www.cjp.pl They organise group lessons, weekend trips an individual courses. In addition to Polish
IS ACCEPTING APPLICATIONS FOR ALL OUR LOCATIONS AND PROGRAMS TODDLERS CASA
MONTHS
YEARS
YEARS
ELEMENTARY
YEARS
“LITTLE CHILDREN, FROM THE MOMENT THEY ARE WEANED , ARE MAKING THEIR WAY TOWARD INDEPENDENCE.” MARIA MONTESSORI
CONTACT SYLVIA TEL MOBILE:
OR
sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl
“THE CHILD IS BOTH A HOPE AND A PROMISE FOR MANKIND.” MARIA MONTESSORI
SZWOLE ER W WARSZAWA; WARSZAWA; BADOWSKA IZABELIN; SZKOLNA www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl
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lessons, Centrum Jezyka Polskiego offers Russian lessons at various levels. IKO Institute of Polish for Foreigners (E4) ul. Kopernika 3, tel. 22 828 52 67. www.iko.com.pl. Email: iko@iko.com.pl Polish language education for expats. Follows a total immersion approach to communication, with a combined focus on language and culture. Klub Dialogu (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, room 160, tel. 22 498-1010, www.klubdialogu.pl. They offer regular, intensive, weekend, travel and family courses for every language level. Every lesson lasts 60 minutes; the first lesson is free. Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson. Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl Perfect Polish tel. 783 012-463, www.perfectpolish.pl, info@perfectpolish.pl. Skilled teachers in Polish language and culture on a range of levels: from Survival Polish to Polish for Business and even Polish Culture and Literature. Speaking, listening, reading and writing.
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EDUCATION POLA-Polish for Foreigners Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 Apt. #21 tel. 22 622-0717, mob. 0607-419-661, www.pola.edu.pl, email: biuro@pola.edu.pl Polish made easy. Specialises in teaching Polish as a foreign language at every level. Group and individual courses based on practical communication techniques. Flexible and mobile instructors. Schola Vera – Polish for Foreigners Polish for foreigners taught by bilingual native speakers. School offers free trial lesson, reasonable prices, flexible locations. Teachers are patient, friendly and knowledgeable in all areas of Polish language, lifestyle and culture. For more information, contact Schola Vera by phone or email: tel. 79 0597-145; schola.vera@gmail.com. Worldwide School (E3) ul. Dobra 56/66, tel./fax 022 826-6904; ul. Morcinka 5 paw.16, tel./fax 022 638-4196; ul. Kondratowicza 25, tel. 22 675-1174; ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 21/24, tel. 22 833-9112; www.worldwideschool.pl Their “Polish for Foreigners in Poland” program is aimed at companies, individual clients (open “Razem po polsku” training). They also have lectures about Polish history and civilisation. The French Institute (D2) ul. Senatorska 38, tel. 22 505-980, www.ifv.pl The Institute organises general Polish courses for French native speakers (zł.1,260 for 60 hours).
preschools ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 6162066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials. Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów), mob. 0502-355-919, www.trampoline.edu.pl This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646-7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school. Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646-9288-89, www.canadian-school.pl. The Preschool’s programme is tailored especially for the needs of young learners with a curriculum based on the English language and the addition of French. Preschool offers: international teachers, a family atmosphere, a variety of after school activities that
includes swimming, art, modern dance, karate, tennis, pottery and more. For info call or email secretary@canadian-school.pl.
Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 68 93 ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 87 36, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 61614-99, 0605 344-038 www.saint-exupery.pl, info@saint-exupery.pl. Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool provides a French Curriculum for children 2 to 6 years old (1st year of Primary school). Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Small classes (one to ten teacher-pupil ratio) and a welcoming family atmosphere.
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Cu r r e n t i s s u e : 0 1 – 3 1 O c t o b e r 2 0 1 0 . w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l >> The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, tel. 22 843-9370, The English Playhouse functions in the quiet and green-filled residential Mokotow district, next to Królikarnia Park. This preschool follows the English National Curriculum and enrolls children from 12 months up to 5 years old. For info call Agnieszka Weston, mob. 0604-464-333 or email office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Web: www.theenglishplayhouse.com The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644-1514, mob. 0605-561-514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl
HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okręşna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717-5513, fax 22 717-5145, mob. 608-369-269, 501-495543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Homeâ€? is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world. *REGISTRATION for the new preschool year 2010/2011 is now open*
Happy Montessori House, Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427-3767, mob. 697 060-504, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddlerfocused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649-1440, 649 14 42 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities. International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843-0964, preschool@preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of MokotĂłw district.
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Our door is now open for accepting registrations for the new year, which commences in September 2010. Please contact us for more information or to book a visit. 0DPD 0DUWD¡V 7RGGOHUV &HQWUH LV DQ (QJOLVK VSHDNLQJ SOD\ DQG learn group in the heart of Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. Our kind staff and warm environment provides a gentle and safe introduction to nursery education. ‡ PDUWD FURVV#QHRVWUDGD SO
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Kidzcorner Marina Preschool & Kindergarten Marina MokotĂłw, ul. Ukryta 4, tel/fax 022 493-1354, mob. 501 050-622, www.kidzcorner.pl. The Kidzcorner school is located within the Marina MokotĂłw residential complex. It offers a bilingual Polish-English learning program based on encouraging a child’s innate potential which follows the Suzuki (Mother Tongue) Method, along with elements of the ideas of Carol Off and Bati Strauss for optimal cognitive development. Music is highlighted as a learning and development tool, with individual and group violin lessons for kids 2-10 years. Premium facility, state-of-the-art learning and a family atmosphere. “Little Jumboâ€? English Pre-School (E12) ul. KurpiĹ„skiego 79, tel. 721 899-999 www.littlejumbo.pl, email: littlejumbo@wp.pl An international pre-school for international and local toddlers run by qualified, Englishspeaking staff. Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English speaking play and learn group in Old MokotĂłw, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta.cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607-704-396. Maple Leaf Preschool ul. ĹťoĹ‚ny 16, tel. 22 644-2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. CzereĹ›niowa 31a, WarszawaWĹ‚ochy, tel. 22 863-7756 and ul. ĹťoĹ‚ny 16, tel. 644 23 26, 501 251-414. MiÄ™dzynarodowa SzkoĹ‚a Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. KrĂłlewicza Jakuba 36, tel. 22 842-2481; ul. Sadowa 4, Konstancin, mob. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu. This nice kindergarten is located in the WilanĂłw district, in a cosy house with a beautiful garden.
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EDUCATION Nanny Express Al. Witosa 31, #105, tel. 22 858-3328, www.nannyexpress.pl. Nanny Express provides childcare professionals for the Warsaw elite. Here, the nannies have very specific qualifications and come with a University degree in pedagogy, at least two years of previous experience working with children and at least an intermediate fluency in English. Plus, they undergo a training process which includes first aid and FCPR training, nutrition, pediatrics, communication, arts and crafts. The most trusted source for childcare. Pooh Corner ul. Tukana 2d, Pyry, tel. 22 648-1605, www.poohcorner.pl Nursery school in the Pyry district of Warsaw. Three Language Day Care (F4) ul. Cicha 5, tel. 503 072-119, www.zlobekjezykowywarszawa.pl. The first trilingual nursery school in Warsaw. Located in the Powiśle district of Centrum, it offers children 1-3 a comprehensive curriculum taught by native speakers of Polish, Spanish and English. Info call or email: amjup2000@yahoo.com.
schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702-8500, fax 022 702-8500, admissions@asw.waw.pl, www.asw.waw.pl. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs
and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.
Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842-3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842-4448, ies@ies-warsaw.pl
Canadian International Primary School ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 816-5798/99, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl Canadian School of Warsaw (C11) ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646-9288, www.canadian-school.pl. Established in 2000, The Canadian School of Warsaw provides an IB Programme along with the Canadian and Polish Curriculum. International highly qualified teachers, small classes and a friendly atmosphere provides students with an optimal learning facility. Canadian School offers a wide variety of after school activities, such as: creative thinking, emotional intelligence, playing on different instruments, creative arts, pottery, modern dance, karate, swimming, tennis and others. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649-1440, 649 14 42 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides preKindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and
Japanese School by the Japanese Embassy ul. Kormoranów 7a, tel. 22 643-5474 www.japoland.pl/gakko. This Japanese Embassy-sponsored Japanese School in Ursynów has been running since 1978. It now has over two dozen pupils, studying a traditional Japanese curriculum. Lycée Franćais de Varsovie (H4) ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616-5400, www.lfv.pl Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 39 08, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. Tours and school visits available for potential new students and their families. Deutsch-Polnische Begegnungsschule “Willy-Brandt-Schule” in Warschau Kindergarten and Elementary: ul. Wandy Rutkiewicz 2, tel. 22 642 27 05. Middle school: ul. Kolegiacka 1A, tel. 22 885 83 22, www.d-sw.pl Presents a full Polish-German curriculum from Kingergarten through Middle School.
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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1
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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1
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Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3
w w w.w a rs a w i n s i d e r. p l
Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7
Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6
Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2
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