Issue 26: Springtime in Tokyo by Time Out Tokyo

A fling with spring

Inside

There’s a new season in Tokyo and everyone’s happier for it. The city is blooming right through to May with flowers of every imaginable colour, from pink sakura to purple wisteria and yellow tulips to baby blue nemophila. The sunny days and cool weather call for more time spent outdoors, so go for a walk through paradise – also known as a Japanese garden – and then take to the water with either a scenic cruise on Tokyo Bay or a paddle down the rivers and canals for a unique view of the city. And don’t forget the food streets, on which you can enjoy a leisurely stroll while feasting on Japanese snacks and delicacies. It certainly is a wonderful time to be in Tokyo.

April – June 2020

Discover springtime at its most beautiful in Tokyo on p22 È

Table for one How to eat well even when you’re dining solo

PAGE 44

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Total devotion Specialist shops dedicated to a single craft

PAGE 48

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

FUJI SHIBAZAKURA FESTIVAL (SEE P27)

The great outdoors

ENOSHIMA SEA CANDLE

Vitamin sea Go island-hopping along the Kanagawa coast

Venture into an actual jungle without leaving Tokyo

PAGE 68

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È FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 10 Courtesy Calls 12 To Do 18 Guide to Olympics and Paralympics 22 Springtime in Tokyo 44 Eating & Drinking 48 Shopping & Style 50 Things to Do 56 Art & Culture 60 Music 62 Nightlife 64 LGBT 66 Film 68 Travel & Hotels 72 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when… Cover

Art direction: Steve Nakamura Photography: Naohiro Tsukada Origami sakura: Origami Kaikan

Editor-in-Chief Lim Chee Wah Contributing Editor Marcus Webb Sub-editor Kit Kriewaldt Editor Kaila Imada

Staff Writers Mari Hiratsuka Shiori Kotaki Tabea Greuner Jessica Thompson Emma Steen Kasey Furutani Hisato Hayashi

Editorial Assistant Youka Nagase Designers Yuki Masuko Chikako Fukui Zineb Bektachi Saiko Miyasato

Staff Photographers Keisuke Tanigawa Kisa Toyoshima Administration Momo Ando Creative Solutions Mao Kawakami Naoki Shimao

Aya Ito Phillip Huey Paul Clark Ili Saarinen Leo Kaku Aidan McFarlane Reina Iwabuchi Hinata Matsumura

Advisor Masashi Takahashi Executive Vice President Akiko Toya President/Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani

ORIGINAL Inc. 101, 5-9-9 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp Time Out Digital 77 Wicklow Street, London,WC1X 9JY www.timeout.com +44 (0)207 813 3000

Time Out Group CEO Julio Bruno Founder Tony Elliott

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Update

The Olympic Torch Relay Starting on March 26, the Olympic Torch Relay will begin its 121-day journey through all 47 prefectures, connecting the country with community torch bearers. After kicking off the journey in Fukushima, the torch will pass through central Japan all the way down south to Okinawa in early May, before looping back up to Hokkaido and finishing with a 15-day celebration in Tokyo.

The Olympic torch relay has been cancelled and will be rescheduled.

FIVE THINGS

Tokyoites are talking about

Æ tokyo2020.org

The number of Studio Ghibli movies that are currently streaming on Netflix the world over, except North America and Japan. We’re bummed to miss out.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Izakaya for vegans

Izakaya, Japan’s version of the gastropub, is one of the best ways to experience the breadth of Japanese food and drink in one sitting. However, vegans and vegetarians have often missed out on this quintessential Japanese experience – until now. Izakaya Masaka has opened in Shibuya, serving beloved comfort food classics that are entirely meat- and dairy-free.

Miyashita Park is transforming into a multi-purpose shopping and entertainment complex with a hotel and a rooftop park with lush greenery – another development in Shibuya’s massive makeover.

Ætinyurl.com/TOTimasaka

5 K5

Once the last place you’d go to have fun, this former bank building from the 1920s has just been transformed into one of Tokyo’s hippest hangouts. Between the boutique Hotel K5, modern Japanese restaurant Caveman, a Switch Coffee shop and a Brooklyn Brewery beer bar, there’s plenty to explore. What keeps us coming back is the inventive tea-based cocktails at Ao Bar.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Ætinyurl.com/TOTk5

OLYMPIC TORCH: © TOKYO 2020. TORCH RELAY DETAILS ARE CORRECT AS OF MAR 10

A new jewel in Shibuya’s crown

Tokyo Update

COUNTDOWN TO TOKYO 2020

ON THE COVER

The Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games are just a few months away and the city is already decked out in its Olympic best. Get your cameras ready and snap a pic at these photo spots before the crowds gather in the summer.

JAPAN OLYMPIC MUSEUM

While you have to pay to enter the second floor of the Japan Olympic Museum (¥500, 65 and older ¥400, free for high school students and under), the first floor of the museum and the outdoor monument gallery are completely free. The outdoor sculptures make for the best photo ops; they include Olympic cauldrons from the previous Japan-hosted Games and the iconic Olympic rings. Æ4-2 Japan Sport Olympic Square Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku (Gaienmae, Kokuritsu-kyogijo, Sendagaya stations). tinyurl.com/ TOTJapanOlympicMuseum. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols).

ODAIBA MARINE PARK

Hosting the Olympic marathon swimming and triathlon events and the Paralympic triathlon, Odaiba Marine Park is one of the main venues for the Games. Overlooking the water are the five Olympic rings – especially picturesque in the evening when they are lit up with the Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo Tower glowing in the background. After the Olympic closing ceremony, the rings will be replaced with the three ‘agitos’ – the official symbol of the Paralympics – until the Games come to an end. Get the best view from Odaiba’s many waterfront walkways, or better yet, take a yakatabune boat tour for a closer look.

They may only bloom briefly, but cherry blossoms are the symbol of spring in Japan. After all, spring is the season for hanami festivities, which see friends and family gather under cherry blossoms for picnics and other outdoor activities. The gorgeous sakura origami on the cover were made by the paper-folding experts at Origami Kaikan in Ochanomizu. They have hundreds of paper types in stock, ranging from the delicate single-coloured washi to handdyed origami paper, all of which come with a set of English instructions to help you create your own origami art. If you’re all thumbs when it comes to crafts, sign up for a workshop and learn how to create a paper crane, a doll or even some slick, if impermanent, fashion accessories including earrings and brooches. Æ1-7-14 Yushima, Bunkyo (Ochanomizu Station). 03 3811 4025. origamikaikan.co.jp. 9.30am-6pm, gallery 9.30am-5.30pm, closed Sun & hols.

Æ1-4 Daiba, Minato (Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTOdaibaPark

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

TOKYO STATION

Located in front of Tokyo Station’s Marunouchi Central Exit, the Olympic and Paralympic countdown clocks track the days, hours, and even seconds until the opening ceremonies on July 24 and August 25 respectively. The distinctly European red brick facade of the station is a photo spot in itself and year-round you’ll see both amateur and professional photographers snapping pics of the station and of Gyoko-dori, the gingko tree-lined street that connects Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace. Kasey Furutani

SEE MORE TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

Æ1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). tinyurl.com/ TOTTokyoStation

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Tokyo Update LIGHT UP COFFEE

ONE DAY IN…

This charming little café pours a mean cuppa with houseroasted beans, which can also be purchased at the shop. Go for the tasting set if you can’t decide – it features a flight of three different drip coffees. Other menu items include lattes and Americanos, made with a different espresso bean each day, as well as snacks like toast and puddings.

Kichijoji Tokyo’s western suburb of Kichijoji is close to the city centre (with direct trains from Shibuya and Shinjuku) and yet far enough removed for a spot of tranquility, especially at the lush Inokashira Park, known for its iconic swan boats and cherry blossoms. So don’t just come for the nearby Ghibli Museum; explore a little further and you’ll discover a cool neighbourhood peppered with stylish restaurants, cafés and boutiques to keep you browsing for hours on end. By Kaila Imada

Æ4-13-15 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 2094. lightupcoffee.com. 10am-8pm daily.

ICHIEN HONTEN

Located on the bustling shopping street Nakamichi-dori, Ichien Honten is hard to miss – there’s usually a queue outside the shop. The big draw is the jumbo pan-fried gyoza (¥500 for five) which go well with the satisfying shoyu ramen. Other dumpling options include chicken and shiso leaf gyoza, miniature one-bite gyoza and a premium pork variety. If the line looks a bit daunting, just get the gyoza and nikuman (steamed buns) to go. Æ2-17-2 Kichijoji Honmachi, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 22 5919. 11am-9pm, closed Wed.

DO UPLINK KICHIJOJI

For some relaxing-yet-edifying downtime, head to the trendy Uplink theatre in the basement of Parco Kichijoji. It offers a range of documentaries, independent and art films. Spend some time exploring Uplink before your show, as the space also features an art gallery plus a gift shop with a range of film merchandise. The snacks here go beyond your standard popcorn and soda: settle in with craft beer and cola, house-made ginger ale, hot dogs, cookies and cakes. Check its website for the film schedule. ÆParco Kichijoji B2F, 1-5-1 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 66 5042. joji.uplink.co.jp. Opening hours vary according to movie times.

SHOP MAJERCA

This minimalist outlet only stocks what it calls ‘welfare’ items, or products designed and made by people with disabilities. The items in store, sourced from all around Japan, each have their own charm. Browse through artisanal ceramics and jewellery, children’s toys, hand-woven belts, camera straps and more besides. Many of the products come with a description of their provenance and the artisans who created them. Æ3-3-11 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 1623. majerca.com. 11am-7pm daily.

EAT & DRINK CAFE LUMIERE

If well-designed homeware is what you’re after, make a beeline for this zakka lifestyle store. Cinq carries all sorts of tableware and kitchen gear, plus fashionable clothing such as socks and knitwear. It even has its own brand of merchandise which includes metal coffee and tea canisters, cloth aprons and umbrellas. With items sourced from around Europe and Japan, the shop is perfect for a spot of interior inspiration.

ÆHigashiyama Bldg 4F, 1-2-2 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 48 2121. twitter.com/lumiere_cafe. 12noon-8pm, Sat & Sun 11am-8pm. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Æ2-28-3 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 26 8735. cinq-design.com. 11am-7pm daily.

PHOTOS BY KEISUKE TANIGAWA

CINQ

This café takes kakigori shaved ice desserts to the next level by covering them in fluffy meringue before lighting them on fire with a flaming concoction of rum. It makes for quite the show-stopping dessert, plus it tastes pretty amazing, too. Flavour combinations range from caramel and strawberries to seasonal varieties such as rum raisins and apples with fresh custard cream and mascarpone cheese. The menu here also features cakes and sandwiches.

OPEN TOKYO

Halal restaurants in Tokyo

rk-free For po n, see rame .com/ l tinyur framen p T TO

It’s not all tonkotsu ramen and pork katsu – Tokyo has plenty of good halal options, too. By Mari Hiratsuka and Shiori Ito. Photography Kisa Toyoshima

ZAKURO

This raucous little slice of Persia is tucked away in quiet, leafy Yanaka. Beneath myriad mosaic lamps and billowing sheets suspended from the ceiling, you’ll find a mix of Iranian, Turkish and Uzbek cuisines served on wooden boards placed on the floor. Zakuro is not the place for a quiet meal, especially during the nightly belly dancing show at 8pm. While the restaurant has a menu, the big draw here is the set course customised on-the-fly by the owner Ali to suit each table’s tastes. The ¥1,000 ‘super hungry’ lunch course comes with soup, stew (choose from chicken, lamb, beans or vegetable), curries, chai tea and dessert. Or try the ¥2,000 dinner course cheekily named ‘you-can’t-finishit-all’; an advance booking for three or more people includes a complimentary shisha session. ÆYanaka Studio 1F, 3-13-2 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa (Nippori, Nishi-Nippori stations). 03 5685 5313. nippori-zakuro.com. 11am-11pm (last orders 10pm), closed Wed.

TURKISH RESTAURANT ANKARA SHIBUYA MIYAMASUZAKA

The draw at this Turkish restaurant near Shibuya Station is the lunchtime beef kebab set (¥2,000), which comes with manti (Turkish dumplings with meat), shakshuka made with deep-fried aubergine and yoghurt sauce, and pide bread. If you’re not feeling like a feast, go for the chicken kebab set instead, with bread, soup and salad for just ¥1,000. Lunch deals aside, we also recommend dinner with a group of friends, since so much of the food here is meant to be shared and there are regular belly dancing performances on Friday and Saturday (8pm-8.30pm). Don’t leave without having dessert – the chewy, sweet dondurma (¥550), Turkish ice cream, is a must. ÆMiyamasuzakaoka Bldg B1F, 2-19-20 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3486 7449. ankara.jp. 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm daily.

ALADDIN

Sitting just across the street from the swanky Roppongi Hills shopping centre, Aladdin serves up Arabic and Iranian dishes overflowing with vegetables. Inside, the Iranian paintings on the walls and the wooden lattice at the windows give this place a real Arabian Nights vibe. The ¥1,200 all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm) is great value. Thin, crispy bread and shish kebabs are regulars, with other dishes changing daily. If you’re in luck, you’ll find the fantastic biryani cooked in a dozen spices. With so many options plus dessert, chai tea and coffee on offer, expect to leave with a full stomach. ÆRoppongi Yasuda Bldg 2F, 3-2-6 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 3401 8851. persia-aladdin.com. 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-10pm, Sun 5pm-10pm.

LE MAGHREB CHANDELIER

This Nishi-Azabu restaurant has been dishing up traditional Moroccan and Mediterranean fare since 2010. You can tell the food here offers an authentic taste of the region – many of Le Maghreb Chandelier’s devoted diners work at the nearby Moroccan embassy. Kick back in one of the cosy booths and chow down on a kebab platter (¥3,080), a plate piled high with chicken and mutton. For a real treat, get the lamb tagine (¥2,860) – stewed in a mixture of spices, dried fruits and sesame for hours, the meat is so tender it falls apart at a whisper. ÆYamatake Kasumicho Bldg 1F, 1-12-5 Nishi-Azabu, Minato (Roppongi, Hiroo, Nogizaka stations). 050 5589 5919. lemaghrebchandelier.com. 11.30am-3pm, 5pm-11.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 12noon-4pm, 5pm-11.30pm.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Courtesy Calls

Table manners How to be a polite and cultured customer at a Japanese restaurant. By Xiaochen Su

order and rhythm. Daily objects from shoes to cutlery have their own defined places, and unwritten rules stipulate when and how they are to be properly handled. This is especially true in a restaurant setting, where customers are expected to help maintain the natural order of things. To avoid embarrassing social faux pas, here are some of the most important dining rules to follow.

KNOW WHAT IS ON YOUR TABLE

Once you sit down at the dining table, you will be immediately given an oshibori, a hot wet towel, and ohiya, a glass of iced water. The oshibori is to wipe your hands with before and throughout the meal as a matter of personal hygiene. It’s impolite to wipe your face with the oshibori or worse, blow your nose into it. While it’s okay to be content with just water at a restaurant, it’s improper to only drink the ohiya with your food at an izakaya. While the staff will gladly refill your glass of water, or replace it with hot green tea, you are expected to order at least one drink along with food. When the first drink is ordered, the waiter will bring otoshi, or an appetiser, with the drink. The content and price of the otoshi are not decided by the customer. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

AYAKO KOJIMA

LIFE IN JAPAN is often marked by

It usually consists of something that goes well with alcohol, like edamame, or a sampler of the restaurant’s speciality. For izakaya, otoshi is a replacement of the ‘cover charge’ more commonly used in bars and clubs. Of course, you should not forget the chopsticks, laid on a chopstick rest, or stored in a little wooden drawer on the table. It is offensive to put them straight up in a bowl, pass food directly between two pairs of them – both actions are associated with Japanese funerary rites – or lick or stab food with them.

Once at the table, certain words should not be forgotten. ‘Kanpai’, or ‘cheers’, should precede people having their first sip of anything besides the ohiya. And it should not happen before everyone at the table has their drink in hand. Before digging in, utter the word ‘itadakimasu’ to show your gratitude for the food. Similarly, end your meal with ‘gochisosama desu’ as a show of gratitude to the restaurant for the meal. While at the table, you should be considerate of others. If you see that your companion’s drinking glass is empty, ask the person if they want another drink. If you are sharing from a communal bottle of beer or sake, refill the person’s glass – never pour a drink for yourself. The bill should be asked for at the table, but be paid at the cash register next to the restaurant’s main entrance. Only if a sign indicates that the bill is settled at the table

REMEMBER THAT DINING IS A COMMUNAL EXPERIENCE

Many restaurants have low tables on tatami (traditional straw mats). Before entering the seating area, take off your shoes and put them at designated areas with the toes facing out or in dedicated storage lockers.

will the waiter come to handle the money.

KNOW HOW TO ORDER

Ordering at the restaurant has a proper process. The drinks should be ordered first, even before you decide what you want to eat. At an izakaya, fibrous and protein dishes, like salad, meat and fish, should be ordered first. Only when everyone at the table has had their fill should shime, the last dish of the meal, such as rice or noodles, be ordered. When ready to order, you should call over the waiter by raising your hand and calling out ‘sumimasen’ (‘excuse me’). If you’re at a loss as to what to order, simply utter the magic word ‘osusume’ to ask for the restaurant’s recommendations. And while you eat, don’t forget one of the most important words of all, a welcome expression in restaurants the world over: ‘Mmmm…’

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How to get tickets

MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless

- Buy them online through the official website (ticket.teamlab.art), or at Lawson or 7-Eleven. - Tickets are sold for a specific day, but not for a specific time slot. - Tickets for the following month go on sale in the middle of the current month. - Same-day tickets can be purchased at the door, unless they are all sold out in advance. - Please check the official website for other terms and conditions.

Odaiba Palette Town, 1-3-8 Aomi, Koto, Tokyo (Tokyo Teleport, Aomi stations). Tel: 03 6368 4292 (10am–6pm) Website: borderless.teamlab.art Weekdays 10am-7pm, Sun, Sat & hols 10am-9pm Closed on 2nd and 4th Tue of the month

DO TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO

What’s in town from April to June 2020

DON’T MISS

THINGS TO DO Sanja Matsuri The traditional Sanja Matsuri, known as one of the Three Great Festivals of Edo (now Tokyo), was first held in 1312. This massive three-day spectacle draws over a million visitors to Asakusa every year and celebrates the three men who founded the neighbourhood’s famous Sensoji Temple. You can expect processions and traditional dance performances, culminating in the festival highlight when three huge mikoshi (portable shrines) are shuttled through the streets by local residents. ÆMay 15-17. Asakusa Shrine, 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito. asakusajinja.jp/english. FREE.

THINGS TO DO KANAMARA MATSURI

Better known as the Penis Festival, this annual highlight at Kawasaki’s Kanayama Shrine falls on the first Sunday in April and celebrates fertility in a big Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

way. You’ll agree when you see the giant mikoshi (portable shrine) containing a variety of phalluses being paraded through the streets. Crowds will start forming as early as 9am at the shrine, but the parade will only commence at noon. Don’t miss the Elizabeth Mikoshi, a less traditional float donated by the eponymous drag queen club Elizabeth Kaikan, with a huge pink penis that certainly stands out in the crowd. Visitors can also enjoy (in)appropriately shaped candy, vegetables and decorations, all while helping to raise money for HIV/AIDS prevention and treatment.

Kawasaki, Kanagawa prefecture. tinyurl.com/ TOTkanamara. 10am-5pm. FREE.

THINGS TO DO TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE FESTIVAL

Tokyo Rainbow Week is back to celebrate LGBTQ pride with a number of events, including a rip-roaring parade (April 26) that sees thousands of people gather every year and take to the streets in fancy dress alongside colourful floats. This year’s theme is ‘your happiness is my happiness’ and the festival hopes to unify Tokyo’s diverse communities, regardless of age, ability, nationality or gender identity. The main event will be held at Yoyogi Park over two days on April 25 and 26, with

ÆApr 5. Kanamara Shrine, 2-13-16 Daishi Ekimae,

a variety of booths by LGBTfriendly companies, while a number of stage performances and charity events take place from April 25 to May 6. ÆApr 25-May 6. Yoyogi Park, 2 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya. tokyorainbowpride.com. 11am-8pm. FREE.

SANJA MATSURI: PIERRE JEAN DURIEU/DREAMSTIME

APRIL

TO DO FILM ZUSHI FILM FESTIVAL

Every spring, this popular beach in Zushi (Kanagawa prefecture) turns into an open-air movie theatre. You can look forward to live music performances, a merry-go-round, a skate ramp and a food bazaar. ÆApr 24-May 6. Zushi Beach, 3 Shinjuku, Zushi, Kanagawa prefecture. zushifilm.com. Details TBA.

ART KIMONO: FASHION IDENTITIES

Dive into the history of Japan’s national dress at the Tokyo National Museum. This five-part exhibition features some of the finest textiles, prints and designs, from ancient kimono from the Kamakura period (1185-1333)

which were originally used as undergarments, to the more modern ones you see worn by women at festivals and on special occasions. The highlight is a hand-painted kimono from the 18th century – as the last surviving work by the famous Japanese artist Korin Ogata, the item has been designated an important cultural property. Every Friday and Saturday and over Golden Week (April 29 to May 6), you can try on a few of the kimono and even have your photo taken with them.

THINGS TO DO EARTH DAY

Since starting in the US in 1970 Earth Day has spread to 175 countries. The annual Earth Day Tokyo event in Yoyogi Park features stalls with eco-friendly traditional goods, handmade accessories and food, plus live performances and talks. Expect a massive gathering of ecoconscious Tokyoites, and don’t forget to bring your own shopping bag! ÆApr 18-19. Yoyogi Park Outdoor Stage, 2-3 Jinnan, Shibuya. earthday-tokyo.org. Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-6.30pm. FREE.

ÆApr 14-Jun 7. Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Ueno-koen, Taito. tnm.jp. 9.30am-5pm, Fri & Sat until 9pm (last entry 30 mins before closing), closed Mon (except May 4). ¥1,700 (adv ¥1,500), university students ¥1,200 (¥1,000), high school students ¥900 (¥700).

FOOD & DRINK VEGAN GOURMET FESTIVAL

Held in Nagoya, Kyoto and Tokyo, this fully vegan festival is a welcome celebration in meatmad Japan. Expect a strong lineup of around 70 stalls at Kiba Park, which will sell veggie burgers, curries, burritos, doughnuts, soft serve ice cream and plenty more. Every food stall will list the ingredients used (in Japanese), so you can be 100 percent sure that no animal was harmed in the process of making your meal.

IMPORTANT CULTURAL PROPERTY. KOSODE (KIMONO) WITH AUTUMN FLOWERS AND PLANTS, PAINTING BY OGATA KORIN, EDO PERIOD, 18TH CENTURY. TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM, TOKYO

ÆApr 19. Kiba Park, 4-6-1 Hirano, Koto. veganfes.com. 10am-4pm. FREE.

Looking to get into sake? Join Craft Sake Week at Roppongi Hills and learn more about Japan’s national drink. Each day of the event features a different selection of sake from the 130 participating breweries. Whether you’re a sake newbie or long-time connoisseur, this boozy bash is for everyone to enjoy. Foodies should also take note, as a number of gourmet restaurants will whip up sake-pairing dishes during the festivities.

Japanese whisky is some of the most sought after booze in the world, yet highball-happy Japan has never had a festival dedicated to its own whisky – until now. The first Japanese Whisky Festival will be held in Ebisu on April 12. It’s limited to 1,000 people, and tickets are on sale online now, so don’t assume you’ll be able to snag one at the door. Expect 22 booths including the big three distilleries, Kirin, Suntory and Nikka, as well as craft distillers like Kanosuke, Saburomaru and Wakatsuru.

ÆApr 17-29. Roppongi Hills, 6-9-1 Roppongi, Minato. craftsakeweek.com. 12noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm). ¥3,600.

ÆApr 12. Ebis 303 3F, 1-20-8 Ebisu, Shibuya. whiskyfestival.jp. ¥6,500 (includes souvenir tasting glass and water bottle).

FOOD & DRINK CRAFT SAKE WEEK

FOOD & DRINK JAPANESE WHISKY FESTIVAL 2020

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

TO DO THINGS TO DO KURAYAMI MATSURI

The Kurayami Matsuri, or ‘darkness festival’, is a week-long event at the Okunitama Shrine out in Fuchu. The festivities take place throughout Golden Week, with float parades, performances and lots of family-friendly fun. We recommend visiting on the evening of May 5, when eight mikoshi (portable shrines) are carried through the shrine grounds to the beat of huge taiko drums. Don’t miss the spectacular yabusame (horseback archery) demonstration at 10.30pm on the same day. ÆApr 30-May 6. Okunitama Shrine, 3-1 Miyamachi, Fuchu. ookunitamajinja.or.jp/matsuri/5-kurayami. php. FREE.

FOOD & DRINK NIKU FES

Niku Fes is back and bigger than ever with a theme-park-sized meat festival at Komazawa Olympic Park during Golden Week. This decidedly carnivorous event offers meat dishes of all kinds, from premium beef steaks to surf and turf – surprisingly, you can even get vegetarian burgers made with mock meat. Entry is free, but to get your meat fix, you’ll need to buy meal tickets for ¥700 each at the festival grounds. ÆMay 1-6. Komazawa Olympic Park, 1-1 Komazawa-koen, Setagaya. nikufes.jp. 10am-9pm (last day until 8pm). FREE.

MUSIC LOVE SUPREME JAZZ FESTIVAL

One of the UK’s most popular music festivals comes to Japan for the first time and features jazz, soul, funk and everything in between. At Toyosu Pit, music fans can expect a spectacular live performance by Grammy awardwinning R&B musician Robert Glasper, while those on a budget can enjoy free live jazz and DJ sets at the Mifa Football Park – there’ll be plenty of snacks and drinks available, too. ÆMay 9-10. Toyosu Pit & Mifa Football Park, 6-1-23 Toyosu, Koto. lovesupremefestival.jp. From 2pm. 2-day ticket ¥20,000, 1-day ticket ¥11,000, 1-day ticket for high school and university students ¥6,000, FREE for junior high school students and younger children (must be accompanied by an adult).

SHOPPING OUTLET JAMBOREE – STATIONERY AND HOMEWARE Revamp your stationery and homeware collections at this three-day festival in Gotanda. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

MOMO/PIXTA

MAY Bunkyo Hydrangea Festival

Don’t bother traipsing all over Tokyo looking for the perfect buy – the Outlet Jamboree gathers a wide range of suppliers and shops in one place, who peddle their wares at reasonable prices. We’re sure you’ll find some unique pieces that aren’t on sale elsewhere. Keep your eyes peeled for bargains.

MUSIC HIBIYA MUSIC FESTIVAL

Organised by renowned music producer Seiji Kameda, this free outdoor festival will feature dozens of live performances from the likes of the Kameda-led Music Park Orchestra, Japanese pop group Dreams Come True, world-famous guitarist and singer Miyavi and local rapper Kreva. Don’t miss the chance to apply for free tickets online. The live gigs will be complemented by a roster of workshops, which are also free to attend. You can shop for musical instruments, and if you feel peckish, head to one of the food stalls. This is your perfect chance to get a (free) taste of Japan’s music scene.

ÆMay 22-24. Gotanda TOC Bldg 13F (Hall A1 & A2), 7-22-17 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa. jamboree. mds-japan.co.jp/outlet. 10am-5pm (May 24 until 4pm). ¥300 (cash only), FREE for primary school students and younger children.

Æ May 30-31. Hibiya-koen, Chiyoda. hibiyamusicfes.jp. 10.30am-9.30pm. FREE.

THINGS TO DO GREENROOM FESTIVAL

ART ROPPONGI ART NIGHT

With the motto ‘Save the Beach, Save the Ocean’, this outdoor party at Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse celebrates beach and surf culture, with an emphasis on protecting the shrinking number of usable beaches in Japan. Attendees can expect art gallery exhibitions, video screenings and live music from the likes of MGMT, Tash Sultana, Asian Kung-Fu Generation, Oscar Jerome, Sigrid and Love Psychedelico.

An annual nocturnal celebration of all things creative, Roppongi Art Night returns with a diverse line-up of outdoor installations, live performances, cultural exhibitions, talks and workshops. The spectacular event takes over the neighbourhood from dusk until way past dawn, with the area’s art museums and galleries staying open until the wee hours. For some stunning photo ops, head to Mori Art Museum in the early morning and catch the sunrise from its observation deck. For the full programme, check the

ÆMay 23-24. 1-1 Shinko, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa prefecture. greenroom.jp. From 12noon. One-day ticket ¥12,000, two-day ticket ¥19,000.

official website. Æ May 30-31. Various locations throughout Roppongi. roppongiartnight.com/2020. FREE.

JUNE FOOD & DRINK GREAT JAPAN BEER FESTIVAL

From humble beginnings in 1998, the Great Japan Beer Festival, or BeerFes to its fans, has become the largest craft beer celebration in the country. This year’s event is expected to attract around 5,500 attendees ready to sample the best craft beers Japan has to offer. In addition to domestic brews, the festival will also feature beer from Europe, Australia and Asia. The admission fee includes a reusable beer glass for tasting as many brews as you like. Æ Jun 6-7. Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20 Ebisu, Shibuya. beerfes.jp. ¥5,200 (adv ¥4,800).

THINGS TO DO BUNKYO HYDRANGEA FESTIVAL

Hakusan Shrine is, rather oddly, known as the shrine to visit when you have a toothache. It also, even more oddly, holds memorial services for toothbrushes – but in June, people flock here for a different reason. With the rainy season comes the flourishing of hydrangeas, and the Hakusan Shrine boasts over 3,000 of these colourful blossoms. Worried about getting caught in the rain? Some say hydrangeas look

TO DO prettiest when it’s wet. While the flowers are out, you can also catch events such as concerts and pop-up shops, which are mainly held on the weekends.

– there will also be an activity area and kids’ park where youngsters can have even more fun playing interactive games. ÆJun 13-14. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. toys.or.jp/toyshow. FREE.

ÆJun 6-14. Hakusan Shrine, 5-31-26 Hakusan, Bunkyo. tinyurl.com/TOTHakusan. 10am-4pm. FREE.

THINGS TO DO MILLION CANDLES AT ZOJOJI TEMPLE

THINGS TO DO OTAKU SUMMIT

A geeky event in Ikebukuro for those who love manga, anime and video games, this is a chance for otaku (the Japanese term for obsessive geeks) from around the world to meet and attend panel discussions and events with local cosplayers. Meanwhile, the World Otaku Conference will take place at Hareza Ikebukuro, featuring sessions with famous writers and voice actors from anime, manga and video games. ÆJun 27-28. Sunshine City, 3-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima. otaku-summit.jp. Hours and prices TBA.

THINGS TO DO A THOUSAND DAYS OF WORSHIP – HOZUKI FAIR

At Atago Shrine’s annual festival, stepping through a ring of reeds in

Million Candles at Zojoji Temple

a figure-eight movement is said to bring 1,000 days of luck. During this time, the shrine also harvests the native Chinese lantern plants that grow on the grounds. The plant’s ripe berries are said to protect children from diseases and eczema, so visitors tend to eat them just for good measure. If you feel like your luck is starting to run dry, this is your chance to get a booster shot.

KIDS TOKYO TOY SHOW

This enormous toy convention where you can test out the latest games and gadgets for free is every kid’s fantasy, but luckily you don’t have to be a child to enjoy it. Have a gander at some 35,000 products from approximately 200 vendors

‘Turn off the lights, take it slow’ is the motto of the summer and winter solstices in Japan, when some people turn off the lights in their homes for a few hours and light candles instead. Head to Zojoji Temple on June 21 to bask in the flickering glow of candles on the temple steps. Even Tokyo Tower, located just behind the grounds, will be turned off for this event. While the candles are only lit at night, the event begins at 11am with performances and pop-up stalls. ÆJun 21. Zojoji Temple, 4-7-35 Shiba-koen, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTzozoji. Hours TBA. FREE.

Æ Note: The situation with the worldwide Covid-19 outbreak is still uncertain at the time of print. Some events might be cancelled or postponed. Please check timeout.com/tokyo for the latest updates.

ÆJun 23-24. Atago Shrine, 1-5-3 Atago, Minato. atago-jinja.com/event. 9am-8pm. FREE.

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At the Robot Restaurant, the show begins before the show begins. While you’re waiting at the bar before the main event, look out for the house robot band who will be playing some smooth jazz for your enjoyment – though the set list varies from time to time.

When the lights go down for the first act, get ready to keep time with the intense taiko drummers – the dancing ‘deities’ and ‘demons’ will smile and wave at you if you do.

Keep your eyes peeled for a special appearance in the second act by a pizza-loving, sewerdwelling hero from your childhood.

Sav ¥2,00e on you 0 r tick

our co et with upo page n on 13

We don’t want to spoil the plot for you, but look out for a blink-andyou’ll-miss-it death scene in the second act featuring one of the main robot antagonists – for those that spot it, the moment is surprisingly emotional.

The first two acts are absolutely action-packed, but the show really saves the best for last, so make sure you still have energy to cheer the massive mecha and its smooth dance floor moves.

Book now!

Shows start at 3.30pm, 5.30pm, 7.30pm and 9.30pm on most weekdays and weekends. Reserve your seats online or by phone. A standard ticket is ¥8,500, excluding food and drinks. Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily. Show schedule subject to change.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

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Everything you need to know about the By Kasey Furutani

JAPAN IS NOT AFRAID

to break barriers. As the first Asian nation to host the summer Olympics and Paralympics in rebranded the country from post-war tragedy to futuristic powerhouse. After hosting the winter Olympics in Sapporo

in the spotlight, with Tokyo hosting the first summer Games of the decade, making it the only Asian city to host the Games twice. To accommodate the growing numbers of visitors for this momentous event, Tokyo has been working hard, with redevelopments in Shibuya, constructing a new Yamanote Line station and increasing foreign language signage, among other

projects. All the hard work will pay off come make their appearance in Olympic Stadium. Visiting Tokyo for the Olympics and Paralympics? Don’t fret – we have your back.

Tokyo 2020 Olympic have been postpone latest by sum

For updates, check t THE BASICS When are the Olympics and the Paralympics? Softball and football matches will start on July

What will Tokyo 2020 do differently? and relief efforts for areas in the Tohoku and earthquake. Tohoku will host baseball and softball at Fukushima Azuma Baseball Stadium – along with Yokohama Baseball Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

across the country, which will offer big-screen sporting action as well as food and drink, special events and live performances. As for sustainability, items such as podiums, uniforms, medals and the torches have been made from recycled materials. The Olympic Village has furnished the athletes’ rooms with cardboard beds, which can be recycled into paper products after the Games. omotenashi, the humble and courteous Japanese hospitality that has won over the world. If you need help, there will be volunteers, both Japanese and foreign, to assist you. Moreover, a friendly fleet of robots will greet visitors and assist with security at the venues, among other functions.

What will the weather be like? Summer Olympics were held in October. Summer in Tokyo is notoriously hot, humid But don’t worry, there will be ways to cope; after all, millions of people live through Tokyo measures to make life more comfortable for spectators, including the potential use of artificial snow to lower heat levels, allowing spectators to bring one bottle of water into venues, and some dorky yet effective umbrella hats, in addition to adjusting event times to avoid the harsh midday sun.

ILLUSTRATIONS: ZINEB BEKTACHI, THRUER

The Games of the XXXII Olympiad will be held

TOKYO 2020

In a contentious move, the marathon and race walking events have been moved up north to Sapporo, which has a milder summer climate.

Have any new sports been added? Absolutely. Sport climbing, surfing, skateboarding and karate have all been added to the line-up. And after being removed in are making a much-anticipated comeback.

What can I do besides watching sport?

August is also prime matsuri (festival) season in Tokyo and throughout Japan, and local temples, shrines and neighbourhoods will be hosting festivals with street food and cultural performances. Watch out for the street dancing fests Bon Odori and Awa-Odori in particular. However, do note that major summer events in and around Tokyo, especially the fireworks festivals and the Fuji Rock music festival, have been rescheduled so they don’t clash with the Olympics. (Fuji Rock is now set for August

The Olympics are not just a time to celebrate Japanese culture – they are an opportunity for cultural exchange, and many of the participating nations will host hospitality houses and festivals with events, food and meetups. Most of the locations are to be confirmed but we know Team Netherlands and Heineken have partnered up, and Switzerland will have a pop-up village on Harajuku’s Cat Street.

One of the most rewarding things about going to the Olympics is learning about the culture

cs and Paralympics ed and will be held mmer 2021. Festival, comprising four big cultural events taking place from April to September, will introduce traditional and contemporary Japanese culture to a global audience.

timeout.com/tokyo. THE VENUES Where are the venues? The Games are divided into two zones: the Heritage Zone and the Tokyo Bay Zone. The Heritage Zone, including Olympic Stadium (formerly the National Stadium) and Yoyogi National Stadium, is inland and uses venues the Ariake Gymnastics Centre and Odaiba Marine Park, among others, consists of the man-made islands at Tokyo Bay. The Athletes’ Village is in the middle of the two zones, on the man-made island of Tsukishima.

Are there venues outside of Tokyo? Events will also be held in neighbouring prefectures Saitama, Kanagawa and Chiba,

easily accessible by train from the Tokyo city centre. Football will be hosted in six different prefectures (Hokkaido, Ibaraki, Miyagi, Saitama, Kanagawa, Tokyo) and water sports such as sailing and surfing will be held near the ocean in Kanagawa and Chiba. The cycling road race will kick off in Tokyo, cover three prefectures (Kanagawa, Yamanashi, Shizuoka) and finish near Mt Fuji. In a controversial move, the marathon and race walking have been moved to Sapporo’s Odori Park to avoid heat-related illness.

What are the stadium rules? You’ll be able to share pictures on social media but keep video/audio recordings to yourself. One non-alcoholic bottled beverage is allowed into the stadium to help you cope with heatrelated dehydration.

What about open accessibility? Metropolitan Government and other Accessibility Guidelines, approved by the International Paralympic Committee. There will be ramps and accessible hotel rooms for wheelchair users. Assistive hearing devices including induction loop systems, FM loops, passive infrared emitters, captioning, sign language interpretation and live audio description services will be offered for those hard of hearing, while braille and large print will be offered to the visually impaired. Olympic staff and volunteers have also gone for disability etiquette training. For more information, read the official Accessibility Guidelines at .

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

TOKYO 2020

WHERE TO STAY What are the best neighbourhoods to stay in? We recommend staying anywhere along the Toei Oedo Line. Not only does it connect the Olympic Stadium, the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, the Kokugikan Arena and the Olympic Village, it also gives easy access to the Yurikamome Line monorail (transfer at Shiodome). The events in and around Tokyo Bay are held along the Yurikamome Line, which will take you to events at Ariake Station (gymnastics, tennis, volleyball, cycling and skateboarding), Telecom Center Station (equestrian, canoe, rowing), Daiba Station (beach volleyball) and Odaiba-kaihinkoen Station (marathon swimming, triathlon). Odaiba, a man-made island in Tokyo Bay, is home to the digital art museum teamLab Borderless, a giant Gundam robot, indoor theme parks and shopping malls.

The Oedo Line is also ideal for sightseeing, with the Tsukiji fish market, the museums and old-school Okachimachi shopping street of Ueno, and the clubs of Roppongi and Kabukicho all on its route. If hotels in central Tokyo are booked up, or exorbitantly priced, we recommend staying in large cities with convenient train lines such as Ikebukuro and Yokohama, or staying out west on the JR Chuo Line for a taste of local life. Kichijoji, home to the Ghibli Museum and Inokashira Park, and counter-culture hub Koenji, with its public art and vintage stores,

to some of the sporting events finishing late at night. Tokyo’s loop line JR Yamanote and the Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway lines are the Olympics. Train lines in Sapporo, Miyagi and Ibaraki will offer special night services after evening football events.

minutes from Shinjuku. The Chuo Line also gives access to Shinjuku, Kanda, Tokyo Station and Akihabara.

What’s the train situation like? Tokyo trains are packed at all hours of the day

Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Paralympics have been postponed and will be held latest by summer 2021. The details are still being discussed, but it’s likely that during the Olympics the trains will

For updates, check timeout.com/tokyo.

HOW TO GET TICKETS What are the ticket prices like?

Can I buy tickets on the day? Maybe, depending on ticket supply. However, at the time of print, there are no announcements yet regarding on-the-day ticket sale.

I don’t have tickets – can I still watch the Games? tickets through an Authorised Ticket Retailer (ATR; ).

Can I still buy tickets? In Japan, a portion of the tickets have been doled out via three lotteries for local residents on a first-come-first-served basis to everyone. Tickets can be purchased online or in-person be official resale services in late May. Only website ( Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

) or an ATR.

the Games as well as host concession stands, special events, activities and performances. These areas will be just as exciting; best of all, entrance is free. Official live sites will be set up throughout the country; Tokyo venues include Yoyogi and Inokashira parks.

Æ Details on Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Paralympics are subject to change. Check tokyo2020.org for the latest updates.

About bloomin’ time Cherry blossoms are not the only colourful spectacle in spring. Here are the season’s most beautiful florals and where you can see them in Greater Tokyo. By Kaila Imada and Tabea Greuner. Origami flowers by Origami Kaikan

C-GEO/PIXTA

Cherry blossoms at Kunitachi

THE ENDURING ICON of spring

CHERRY BLOSSOMS

Usually end of March to early April The wondrous cherry blossoms, also known locally as sakura, are worth a trip to Japan on their own. In full bloom, the pink flowers, often packed in dense clusters across farreaching branches, are so profuse they appear to be giant pink clouds tethered to the ground by tangled wires. It’s a mesmerising sight that steals the show from everything else in the vicinity, and Japan’s nationwide fascination with the blooms inspires everything from ukiyo-e art to desserts and drinks. Although cherry blossoms are thought of as being pink, these delicate flowers actually vary in colour depending on the species; in Tokyo they are usually light pink in colour, or white with a pink centre. You’ll find these fleeting blooms across the capital, with popular spots like the Meguro River and Shinjuku Gyoen becoming sakura pilgrimage sites for both tourists and locals alike. So for a more relaxed hanami (flower-viewing) experience, escape these crowds and head to one of our favourite lesser-known spots.

KAWAGOE SHINGASHI RIVER

If Tokyo’s Meguro River is your usual go-to sakura site, switch it up this year by heading out to Koedo in Saitama’s Kawagoe city, also known as ‘Little Edo’ for its historical streets and buildings. Behind the Hikawa Shrine you’ll find a gentle river flanked by grassy banks and cherry trees. Expect a gorgeous pink boulevard at peak bloom, but the river is especially photogenic near the end of the season when the water surface is completely covered in the fallen pink petals. You can even take a slow boat ride along the river. Kawagoe Shingashi River

àEnd Mar to early Apr. 2-11-3 Miyashitamachi, Kawagoe, Saitama (Kawagoe, Kawagoeshi stations).

KUNITACHI

Located in western Tokyo, Kunitachi is one train stop away from Tachikawa’s Showa Kinen Park, one of the city’s top sakura spots. However, Kunitachi is worth a visit for its pink blossoms, too. The main road leading from Kunitachi Station towards Hitotsubashi University is lined with large cherry trees, which make for a scenic stroll while checking out the various shops, restaurants and cafés in the area. Walk up to some of the pedestrian overpasses for a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the street in full bloom. àEnd Mar to early Apr. Kunitachi Station, 1 Kita, Kunitachi.

KANDA RIVER

The Kanda River is a lesser-known sakura destination within central Tokyo that gets relatively little tourist traffic. Take the capital’s only remaining tramline, the Arakawa Tram (also known as the Sakura Tram), all the way up to Waseda Station and the river is just a short walk away. The scene here is similar to that at Meguro River but with far fewer crowds. The riversides and the bridges will be strung with festive pink lanterns, and since the cherry trees here are old, their sheer size and volume do make for a jaw-dropping impact when in full bloom. àEnd Mar to early Apr. Waseda Station, 1-23 Nishi-Waseda, Shinjuku.

PICTURE CELLS/PIXTA

in Japan, cherry blossoms have come to be synonymous with the country itself, seasonally attracting hordes of admirers from across the world. While cherry blossoms generally flower in mid-April, recent years have seen them blooming earlier and earlier, and they usually last no longer than a couple of weeks. So if you missed the cherry trees at peak bloom, fret not – there are lots of other floral sights you can find that are just as beautiful in their own way. And the best part is, there’s always something putting out its petals in Tokyo during spring, from late March right through to May.

Kanda River April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Showa Kinen Park

SHOWA KINEN PARK

Springtime in Tokyo

TULIPS

Usually end of March through to April When we think of tulips, we usually associate them with the Netherlands, calling to mind football fields of the colourful dew-drops set against a picturesque backdrop of windmills. Well, good news: you’ll also find this highly photogenic scenery in Greater Tokyo, complete with the windmill.

SHOWA KINEN PARK

ÆEnd of Mar to end of Apr. 3173 Midoricho, Tachikawa (Tachikawa Station). 042 528 1751. tinyurl.com/ TOTshowa. Mar 1-Oct 31 9.30am-5pm, Nov 1-Feb 28 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols between Apr 1-Sep 30 9.30am-6pm. ¥450, FREE for junior high school students and younger children.

SAKURA FURUSATO SQUARE

Every year, the Sakura Furusato Square in Chiba hosts the Kanto region’s largest tulip festival. Here you’ll find more than 800,000 blooms of 100 different tulip types, complete with a Dutch-style windmill in the background for an added touch of authenticity. You can even dress up in traditional Dutch costumes (¥1,000/45min) for a stroll through the colourful flower beds.

ASHIKAGA FLOWER PARK

Showa Kinen Park in Tachikawa is famous for its year-round beautiful flowers. A visit in spring lets you enjoy its massive tulip garden with about 250,000 tulips of 284 varieties. Set amid lush nature, some of the flower beds feature flowing streams, which add to the appeal of the picture-perfect landscape.

Ashikaga Flower Park

Sakura Furusato Square

SAKURA CITY

ÆApr 1-26. 2714 Usuida, Sakura, Chiba prefecture (Keisei Usui Station). 043 486 6000. tinyurl.com/sfq2020. 9am-4pm daily. FREE.

WISTERIA

Usually mid-April to mid-May Wisteria vines produce gorgeous pastelcoloured flowers that resemble dripping beads and as such, they are often grown on trellises or formed into a tunnel. It creates a fairy tale-like experience as you walk under the hanging violet, blue, pink or white blooms.

ASHIKAGA FLOWER PARK

Ashikaga Flower Park in Tochigi prefecture is one of the top destinations in Japan for wisteria. About 350 plants impress visitors from mid-April to mid-May, but keep an eye out for the 150-year-old plant, which features hundreds of wisteria blooms dangling from a massive construct of wooden trellises. Come night, the huge, mature tree is lit up and its

reflection on the water’s surface is stunning. You can also find a variety of wisteria tunnels, which are fun to walk through. Don’t miss the park’s seasonal snacks and beverages, including a unique wisteria softserve (¥400) with a floral aroma.

violet blossoms. Æ End of Apr to early May. 5-31-10 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu (Chofu Station). 042 483 2300. tinyurl.com/TOTjindai. 9.30am-5pm (last entry 4pm; Aquatic Botanical Garden until 4.30pm), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). ¥500, junior high school students ¥200, FREE for younger children.

Æ Apr 11-May 20. 607 Hasamacho, Ashikaga, Tochigi prefecture (Ashikaga Flower Park Station). 0284 91 4939. www.ashikaga.co.jp. Apr 11-21 7am-6pm, Apr 22-May 20 7am-9pm. Entrance fees vary on the condition of the flowers: ¥900-1,900, children ¥500-900, evening ticket ¥600-1,600, children ¥300-800.

JINDAI BOTANICAL GARDENS

For a more relaxed wisteria excursion, head towards Tokyo’s Chofu area, where the huge Jindai Botanical Gardens is home to a large selection of flowers. The end of April through to May will see about 50 wisteria plants of 13 kinds in bloom, including an 85m-long and 5.8m-wide trellis that’s home to white and

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

NEMOPHILA

Usually from mid-April to early May Nemophila or ‘baby blue eyes’ are small blue flowers which are actually considered a herb. The plant grows close to the ground, and in spring, countless flowers turn entire areas underfoot into a sea of gorgeous blue.

HITACHI SEASIDE PARK

One of the most popular spots to catch a sea of baby blue eyes is Hitachi Seaside Park up in Ibaraki prefecture. The park is approximately 85 minutes by express train (plus an additional 15-minute bus ride) from Shinagawa Station and it’s home to a number Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

of different flowers including narcissus, tulips, poppies and sunflowers (they bloom at different times). Here you’ll find roughly 5.3 million nemophila flowers during the season and they run up rolling hills, making for beautiful scenery against the clear blue sky and the nearby ocean. Æ Mid-Apr to early May. 605-4 Onuma, Mawatari, Hitachinaka, Ibaraki prefecture (Katsuta Station). 029 265 9001. hitachikaihin.jp. 9.30am-5pm. ¥450 (price may vary according to season), FREE for junior high school students and younger children.

SHOWA KINEN PARK

Showa Kinen Park in Tokyo’s Tachikawa neighbourhood is another wonderful spot to

view these tiny blue flowers. The ¥450 entry not only gives you access to the nemophila but other seasonal flowers as well, including tulips and cherry blossoms. The baby blue eyes are spread across a small hill opposite the tulip fields and they’re surrounded by lush nature. The area may not be as large as some of the other nemophila spots in Japan, but the fact that this park is within Tokyo makes it a convenient option for those with limited time. Æ Mid-Apr to early May. 3173 Midoricho, Tachikawa (Tachikawa Station). 042 528 1751. tinyurl.com/TOTshowa. Mar 1-Oct 31 9.30am-5pm, Nov 1-Feb 28 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols between Apr 1-Sep 30 9.30am-6pm. ¥450, FREE for junior high school students and younger children.

Springtime in Tokyo

Chichibu Hitsujiyama Park

SHIBAZAKURA

Usually from mid-April to late May

Hitachi Seaside Park

Moss phlox, or shibazakura, is a beautiful low-growing, creeping evergreen that turns into a giant floral carpet during the flowering season. While pink is common, the fragrant flowers can also be found in various bright colours including white, light purple and white with pink stripes, which are neatly groomed and landscaped in spring.

CHICHIBU HITSUJIYAMA PARK

Located about 80 minutes from Ikebukuro Station via the Seibu Railway express train, Chichibu Hitsujiyama Park in Saitama hosts an annual Shibazakura Festival. The park is known for its perfectly manicured shibazakura, groomed into many different shapes, over the roughly 1.8-hectare area. There are around 400,000 shibazakura here in nine different cultivars, with colours ranging from white and pink to blue. The grounds also feature local street-food stalls and souvenir shops. The festival this year is scheduled to run from April 17 to May 6, and

the entrance fee is ¥300. Æ Apr 17-May 6. Hitsujiyama Park, 6360 Omiya, Chichibu, Saitama prefecture (about 20 mins walk from Yokoze and Seibu-Chichibu stations). 0494 25 5209. navi.city.chichibu.lg.jp. Park is open 24 hours daily; festival hours 8am-5pm.

FUJI SHIBAZAKURA FESTIVAL

Another stunning spot to catch these flowers is at the Fuji Shibazakura Festival near Lake Motosu in Yamanashi prefecture. This festival promises two national icons: you’ll be able to get a glimpse of these flowers with Mt Fuji as a backdrop (weather permitting). The area features more than 800,000 shibazakura in eight different varieties over the spacious 2.4 hectare area. There’s even a Mt Fuji topiary showpiece covered in pink and white flowers and it’s a super-popular photo spot. The festival is scheduled for April 18 to May 31 this year and it’s approximately a two-hour train ride from Shinjuku Station. Entrance is ¥800 for adults (junior high school students and older) and ¥250 for children. Æ Apr 18-May 31. Fuji Motosuko Resort, 212 Motosu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru, Yamanashi prefecture (Kawaguchiko Station). 0555 89 3031. shibazakura.jp. 8am-5pm daily. April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

HEAVEN IS A PLACE ON EARTH Emma Steen explores the beauty and philosophy of Japanese gardens and recommends her favourites in Tokyo Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Shinjuku Gyoen

EKATERINA SPIRIDONOVA/DREAMSTIME

YOU CAN’T QUITE put your finger on it but you know it’s there: the sense of calm and inner peace you feel upon entering a Japanese garden. Take a closer look at what goes into landscaping one, and the levels of intricacy involved might give you a new appreciation of these soothing spaces. The history of Japanese horticulture is partially rooted in Zen Buddhism, with the aim of harnessing nature to create better environments to meditate in. Elements such as ponds and stones represent both physical aspects of the earth and abstract concepts relating to spirituality. A traditional Japanese garden can be divided into four main elements. Rocks are commonly used to create ‘mountains’ or ‘rivers’ within a garden. Larger volcanic rocks that are long in shape are used to symbolise mountains whereas smaller stones are picked to form dry ‘rivers’. They must be placed to show their ‘best side’ to the viewer and rarely appear in even-numbered formations or regular patterns, arranged instead as single structures or in asymmetrical clusters so they look more natural and less contrived. Water is another element that features heavily in Japanese gardens, for the sounds it makes as well as for its metaphysical cachet as a symbol of continuity. So alongside the stony, dry ‘oceans’ and ‘rivers’, you’ll find more literal small waterfalls and ponds, often filled with koi fish. While in Western gardens, water fountains might be taken as a token of artifice and humans’ control over the elements, in Japanese gardens, waterfalls capture water in its most natural state.

VANESSAJOHL/DREAMSTIME

‘The history of Japanese horticulture is partially rooted in Zen Buddhism’

Houkokuji Temple

KUREMO/DREAMSTIME

Springtime in Tokyo

Plants and flowers may seem like the most obvious ingredients in any garden tradition, but the foliage chosen for these landscapes is specifically selected to ensure that there will always be colourful leaves or blossoms to admire throughout all four seasons. The varieties of trees planted also have particular meanings associated with them. In ancient eras, evergreen cedar and camphor were thought to be the trees that were closest to the gods because of how tall they could grow. For these reasons, these species can also be found at most Buddhist and Shinto shrines. The fourth category covers the man-made features, also known as a garden’s scenic elements. While gardens were originally designed for reflection, following the introduction of the tea house as a common fixture, a modern style of garden design introduced a number of elements to make the space more hospitable to visitors. Stone lanterns are often seen in gardens with tea houses, placed to help guests find their way to the entrance of the structure. Stone water bowls were installed so that guests could rinse their mouths, and stepping stones were also added to create pathways. Eventually, these functional elements also served as decorative flourishes and expert landscapers would think carefully about how the placement of these objects would add to the natural beauty of the garden. Due to their asymmetry and the meticulous approach to each garden’s design, no two are alike – which is apt given that they are also intended to reflect the transient nature of the changing seasons. Here are some of the most celebrated landscaped gardens in Tokyo, which offer particularly fine examples of all the elements that make up a traditional nihon teien (Japanese garden). April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

VOYATA/DREAMSTIME

TRAVELLING-LIGHT/DREAMSTIME

Tokyo's best Japanese gardens

Shinjuku Gyoen

Kiyosumi Teien

Æ11 Naitomachi, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3441 1461. tinyurl.com/TOTshinjukugyoen. Mar 15-Sep 30 9am-6pm, Jul 1-Aug 20 9am-7pm, Oct 1-Mar 14 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). ¥500, ¥250 university & high school students, FREE for younger children.

Æ3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). 03 3641 5892. tinyurl.com/TOTkiyosumi. 9am-5pm daily. ¥150, FREE for primary school children and younger.

Characterised by its large pond, Kiyosumi Teien features footpaths that were designed to take you on a walk through the garden’s waterscape, which is alive with glittering koi fish, turtles and birds. As beautiful as the boulders of Kiyosumi Teien are, their placement around the garden and its three islands are no coincidence. Shipping financer and Mitsubishi founder Iwasaki Yataro used his steamships to collect beautiful stones from all around Japan and decorated the garden with them. Large stepping stones called isowatari are placed in the shallower parts of the pond where you can admire the trees’ reflections across the water, something that makes the garden unique.

KAZUKIYATUKO/PIXTA

CRISFOTOLUX/DREAMSTIME

Famous for its appearance in Makoto Shinkai’s hit anime ‘The Garden of Words’, the expansive Shinjuku Gyoen was originally a private estate before opening to the public in 1946. It boasts some of the most beautiful gardens in the city. Each sector in the park has a different theme – there is a French garden, an English landscape garden, a botanical greenhouse and a momiji-yama (maple mountain) – to showcase each of the four seasons. As such, the park offers a different experience as the season changes, but it’s especially popular for hanami (flower viewing) gatherings during cherry blossom season.

Rikugien

Garden of Denboin

Æ6-16-3 Honkomagome, Bunkyo (Komagome Station). 03 3941 2222. tinyurl.com/TOTgardenrikugien. 9am-5pm daily (last entry 4.30pm). ¥300, FREE for primary school children and younger.

Æ2-3 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3842 0181. tinyurl.com/TOTsensoji. Mid-March to early May 6am-5pm daily. ¥300.

While Rikugien is located in the metropolitan area of Bunkyo, the garden concealed behind the walls feels miles away from the bustling city. Rikugien gets especially popular in spring as crowds flock to the glorious weeping cherry tree, which is lit up after dark. Autumn is just as scenic due to the abundance of blushing maple trees. Nevertheless, permanent highlights to be enjoyed year-round include the Fukiage Chaya tea house, where you can sip on a cup of matcha for ¥620.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

The Garden of Denboin is located on the revered grounds of Asakusa’s Sensoji Temple. It’s said that the garden was built by Enshu Kobori, a well-known gardener, during the Kanei period (1624-44). Stone pagoda and stone lanterns are placed at various points to add to the scenery. The garden, along with the residence on the grounds, is only open to the public in the months of spring so that visitors can admire its tranquility just as the cherry blossoms are blooming.

Springtime in Tokyo

THE HIDDEN GEMS Houkokuji Temple

While a little out of the way, Kamakura is worth the hour-long train journey from Tokyo for its historical shrines and temples. Houkokuji Temple, in particular, is known for its small but beautiful bamboo grove where you can enjoy a cup of matcha with Japanese sweets (¥600). As you enter the forest, you’ll see three shallow caves that are said to be the resting place of notable Kamakura priests and samurai including Ietoki and Yoshihisa Ashikaga. The path leading up to the temple takes you through a zen stone garden famed for its karensui (dry landscape) with intricately raked gravel.

BENNYMARTY/DREAMSTIME

Æ2-7-4 Jomyoji, Kamakura (Kamakura Station). 0467 22 0762. houkokuji.or.jp. 9am-4pm daily. ¥300.

Tonogayato Garden

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Spring is the best time to walk through a bamboo grove and the forest at Tonogayato Garden is so lush that it’s a designated cultural asset of Tokyo. This garden in Kokubunji has a storied noble history: it was established between 1913 and 1915 on the grounds of a villa built for the vice president of the Manchurian railway, Eguchi Teijo, and was later purchased by the founder of Mitsubishi, Iwasaki Yataro, in 1929, who added a tea house to the premises. Tonogayato’s beauty lies in the diversity of its landscape, which features a waterfall leading to a natural spring.

Okuma Teien

Students of Waseda University come to this garden, tucked on the edge of the Shinjuku campus, in between lectures for a quiet nap or to eat bento on the lawn. Some of the gardens around the city ban visitors from crossing the grass or eating within the garden, but this hidden green oasis is here to serve the masses with whatever kind of rest they need most, be it a quick snooze or an afternoon of reading on the grass. The garden features a traditional stone lantern as well as a pond of lotuses, but also has a statue of the philosopher Confucius and a traditional Korean bell donated by graduate students to mark the hundredth anniversary of the university and to symbolise the diverse ties among its international scholars.

Æ2-16 Minamicho, Kokubunji (Kokubunji Station). 042 324 7991. www.tokyo-park.or.jp/ teien/en/tonogayato. 9am-5pm daily. ¥150.

Æ1-104 Totsukamachi, Shinjuku (Waseda Station). 03 3203 4333. 9am-5pm, closed Sun (and sometimes on rainy days). FREE.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

LEISURE CRUISES YAKATABUNE AMITATSU

Centuries ago in Japan, yakatabune were the pleasure boats of wealthy merchants, aristocrats and military leaders, and they were lavishly decorated, often with tatami mats and low tables for dining. Nowadays, these traditional wooden longboats are seeing a revival as private entertainment vessels for groups to enjoy Tokyo’s night scenery over food and drinks. However, this doesn’t mean yakatabune are off limits to casual tourists. Yakatabune Amitatsu, which has been in business for over a century, also caters to couples and smaller groups on one of their eight ships, all equipped with a sky deck. Make a booking for the Odaiba-Skytree Cruise, which takes you from Tokyo’s heritage centre, Asakusa, to the modern pleasure island Odaiba. The two-and-a-half-hour cruise comes with a bar and a Japanese dinner that includes tempura and sashimi, and there’s a vegetarian option, too (pre-book during reservation). In spring, Amitatsu also offers a special sakura tour that takes you to some of Tokyo’s most picturesque riverbanks, all flanked by cherry blossoms. Æ Asakusa (Azumabashi Pier), 1-23 Azumabashi, Sumida (Asakusa Station) or Harumi Pier, 3-1-1 Harumi, Chuo (Kachidoki Station). 03 3655 2780. amitatsu.jp. Hours vary, see website for details. From ¥11,000, primary school children and younger ¥5,500; minimum booking of two persons.

TOKYO ON WATER With its sprawling cityscape, it’s easy to forget that Tokyo is a city defined by water: there’s a bay to the east while rivers and canals snake through the concrete jungle into the mountains. Here’s how to explore another side of the metropolis through these scenic waterways. By Tabea Greuner and Kasey Furutani Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

TOKYO NO KABA

Every major city seems to have its own gimmicky duck bus, including Tokyo, except here it’s reimagined as the ‘Hippo of Tokyo’ (Tokyo no Kaba). Popular with kids, the journey starts on land in Odaiba and hits the water with a huge splash, with an enthusiastic tour guide narrating as you go. The bus-boat takes a leisurely journey through Tokyo Bay, passing Odaiba Beach, the Rainbow Bridge and the futuristic architecture of the Fuji Television headquarters. Kids with shorter attention spans might prefer the short course, which runs for 30 minutes (compared to the 45-minute regular tour) and spends less time on land. Tours run during daylight hours but adults will appreciate the sunset on the last tour of the day. It might be a trip catering to children, but we’re all kids again when the bus-boat splashes into the water. Æ 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato (Daiba, Tokyo Teleport stations). 03 3455 2211. en.kaba-bus.com. Tours at 10am, 11am, 1.15pm, 2.15pm, 3.15pm, 4.15pm (5.15pm April to September; short tour at 9.20am), closed Wed. ¥3,600, children (four to primary school age) ¥1,800, infants ¥500; short tour ¥3,300, children ¥1,700, infants ¥500.

Springtime in Tokyo

HIT 1912/PIXTA

TIMEOUT.COM/ TOKYO

KEIHIN FERRY – FACTORY NIGHT-VIEW CRUISE

The Yokohama cityscape is picturesque, but you’re really here for the ‘Blade Runner’-esque vista in the neighbouring city of Kawasaki. The Keihin Factory Zone, to be specific, is made up of massive industrial units, power plants, warehouses and cranes set along canals – and come nightfall, the steely industrial zone is all lit-up, creating postapocalyptic scenery that looks like it’s lifted straight off a sci-fi flick. It’s a mesmerising sight, especially with the vista reflected in the water. The 90-minute night cruise departs from Osanbashi Pier, located between Yokohama’s Minatomirai waterfront and Chinatown. It’s a small group on a small boat that’s all the better for navigating through the narrow canals. Æ Osanbashi Futo Bldg 1F, 1-1 Kaigan-dori, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa prefecture (Nihon-Odori Station). 045 201 0821. keihinferry.co.jp. Times vary monthly depending on sunset, closed Mon. ¥3,800. Reservation and confirmation essential, both via yoyaku@keihinferry.co.jp. International tourists pay in cash on the day of the cruise; available seats can be booked until 12noon two days prior.

SYMPHONY TOKYO BAY CRUISE

This is not your standard tourist tootle out-and-back, but a relaxing sightseeing cruise that gives you a brand new perspective on the city. There are multiple sessions from morning to night, taking you out to Tokyo Bay for spectacular views of the iconic Rainbow Bridge, the bustling man-made island Odaiba – which is known for its shopping malls and amusements – and Haneda Airport. You might just want to enjoy the cruise, but you can turn it into a waterborne meal at one of the boat’s restaurants; options range from French and Italian to Japanese cuisines and there’s even an international buffet. Otherwise, there’s a bar if you want to drink in the view with, well, an actual drink. Park yourself on the open deck and watch the buildings parade past like an architectural catwalk show.

FUNAASOBI MIZUHA

A boat ride into the past, Funaasobi Mizuha introduces you to the city’s history through the four main rivers in Tokyo: Nihonbashi, Kamejima, Sumida and Kanda. During the 90-minute tour, you’ll discover the ancient stone walls of the old Edo Castle, historic bridges and railwayrelated heritage sites, plus ancient waterways excavated about 400 years ago, which go to explain how and why Tokyo is really a city of water. It’s an illuminating journey that reveals a side of Tokyo few visitors get to appreciate. There’s a knowledgeable English-speaking guide on board and you can bring along food and drinks for a little picnic on the boat. Each reservation comes with a small souvenir and guide to Tokyo’s waterways.

Æ Sealine Tokyo, 2-7-104 Kaigan, Minato (Hinode Station). 03 6858 4506. symphonycruise.co.jp. Lunch 11.50am-2pm, afternoon 3pm-3.50pm, sunset 4.20pm-6.20pm, dinner 7pm-9.30pm. Cruise only, ¥1,600-4,000, children ¥800-2,000; meal or buffet option from ¥6,100 (reservations essential).

Æ Nihonbashi Pier, 1-9 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Mitsukoshi-mae Station). 070 6476 9827. funaasobi-mizuha.jp. Hours vary, see website for details. ¥3,900, primary school students ¥1,900, FREE for younger children.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

NAVAPON PLODPRONG/DREAMSTIME

WATER ACTIVITIES

BOAT-ROWING AT CHIDORIGAFUCHI MOAT

The Chidorigafuchi Moat, north-west of the Imperial Palace, is one of the most popular spots in Tokyo come spring. And justifiably so: it offers a romantic way to see the pink sakura up close, as you can rent a rowboat and paddle under the blooming branches of 200 cherry trees along the 700m long promenade, day and night. We’d recommend the latter, though: one, to avoid the crowds and, two, the trees are all lit up at night. Don’t worry if you miss the blooms at their peak. The tail end of the cherry blossom season is just as stunning, when the moat turns into a pink carpet, thanks to the fallen petals.

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SPORTS CLUB ZAC

Æ 2 Sanbancho, Chiyoda (Kudanshita Station). 03 3234 1948. www.city.chiyoda.lg.jp/shisetsu/koen/073.html. ¥500 for 30min, ¥1,000 for 1hr; cherry blossom season ¥800 for 30min, ¥1,600 for 1hr.

SPORTS CLUB ZAC

Morning workouts might sound drab while on holiday, but how about exercising while seeing Tokyo from water? Sports Club Zac offers stand-up paddling (SUP) tours for beginners and advanced paddlers – you’ll give your arms and core a good workout as you paddle through Edogawa’s Kyunaka River and get a rare view of Skytree without the crowds. If you’re completely new to SUP, don’t worry – the shorter courses stick to calm waters. Æ Oshima Komatsugawa Park, 1-9-8 Komatsugawa, Edogawa (Higashi-Ojima Station). 03 6671 0201. zacsports.com. Tours 7am, 9am, 11am, 1.30pm. Irregular dates, reserve online or via phone. From ¥4,500.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Springtime in Tokyo

TOKYO GREAT KAYAKING TOURS

You’ve explored Tokyo by train, on foot, possibly even on two wheels – but what about on water? Tokyo Great Tours lets you travel by kayak and see the city from its canals and rivers. Beginner-level to advanced courses have kayakers paddling under historic bridges, beside train tracks and on the Sumida River, where you’ll get an unparalleled view of Tokyo Skytree. At some point you’ll want to lay down your paddle, lean back and realise you’re floating in the middle of Tokyo. We recommend ‘Route C’ for beginners: you’ll paddle under highways and the historic Nihonbashi Bridge, and see Tokyo Skytree. You’ll also be a sight to behold yourself: wide-eyed salarymen will wave at you from bridges and fascinated children will point from boats. Hopefully you’ll stay upright for the duration – but as an experience it’ll capsize your whole image of Tokyo.

YOKOHAMA SUP CLUB

Stand-up paddleboarding, or SUP, has grown from its humble origins in Hawaii to become an international sport. Home to Chinatown and the waterfront Minatomirai, Tokyo’s seaside neighbour Yokohama has an SUP scene of its own, with the Yokohama SUP Club, a school educating both beginners and more serious SUP paddlers, and hosting events and a monthly river clean-up. The certified guides and instructors will teach proper form and paddling techniques so you’re not too sore the next day. You’ll stand-up paddle down the Ooka River, which empties into Yokohama Bay, and see famous sightseeing spots like the Landmark Tower and the giant ferris wheel Cosmo Clock 21 along the way. Æ 2-166-1 Hinodecho, Naka, Yokohama (Hinodecho Station). 090 3502 2701. yokohamasup-club.com. Irregular times and dates. From ¥5,000.

CANYONS

Æ 1-3-2 Shinkawa, Chuo (Kayabacho Station). 03 4590 2995. tokyokayaking.jp. Tours on irregular dates, reservation only. From ¥5,000.

CANYONING AT OKUTAMA

White-water rafting? Been there, done that, and so last decade. Adrenaline junkies can now immerse themselves in the water with only a helmet and a life jacket by canyoning, a relatively new adventure sport that uses natural canyons as a real-life adventure park. Tour operator Canyons offers the two-hour Big Holy Canyon tour, where you’ll slide down waterfalls up to 25m tall, zip-line down rivers and jump off precipices from a height of six metres, all in the middle of Okutama’s lush nature (Okutama is just 90 minutes from central Tokyo). Looking for a bigger rush? Combine it with a packrafting tour and speed down the white water of the Tama River. However, if you prefer to ease into something less strenuous, opt for the relatively milder Holy Canyon tour – the jumps aren’t so tall and you’ll have time to chill in the river. Be aware that under13s cannot participate in the Okutama tours; they can, however, join the rafting tours in Minakami, Gunma prefecture. Æ 54-1 Kawai, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (free shuttle available from Mitake Station). 0278 72 2811. canyons.jp. Tours from May to Oct, irregular dates. From ¥7,500. April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

Give in to the springtime urge to get out and about, and escape the city for these family-friendly adventure parks and attractions. By Tabea Greuner and Youka Nagase

BIG DAY OUT

METSÄ VILLAGE MOTHER FARM

Meet friendly farm animals like sheep, cows, pigs, goats and donkeys roaming around the fields of Mother Farm in Chiba. You can pet and feed the animals in selected areas of the park and participate in activities like horseback riding. For first-timers, we recommend taking the Mother Farm Tour DX (adults ¥1,600, children ¥900), where you’ll ride a tractor train through the meadowlands, giving you a fantastic view of Tokyo Bay. The tour is the only way to feed the adorable alpacas and watch the sheep-herding up close. Don’t worry if it rains – the farm has plenty of indoor activities, too, like milking dairy cows, sheep-sheering demonstrations, and cooking workshops where you can make cheese, ice cream and butter from fresh milk. The animals may be the main attraction, but Mother Farm also offers fruit picking (strawberries and tomatoes from January to May), bungee jumping, craft workshops, and a flower field that’s open all year round. Æ 940-3 Tagura, Futtsu, Chiba prefecture (bus from Kimitsu or Sanukimachi stations). 0439 37 3211. motherfarm.co.jp. Feb-Nov 9.30am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5pm, Dec-Jan 10am-4pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9.30am-4pm. ¥1,500, primary school students and children aged four and older ¥800. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Named after the Finnish word for forest, Metsä Village is a large Nordic-themed park in Saitama prefecture. With free entry, the park provides a calm, stress-free environment on the shore of Lake Miyazawa, with a thick, lush forest just across the water. Parents can relax at a café or shop for genuine Nordic homewares. For something a little more active, hire a canoe and paddle around the lake. And for the kids, there’s the Panza Miyazawako – an adventure playground with a difference. Up in the trees, thick woven nets are stretched out to create undulating platforms for kids to run, jump and walk on. These so-called ‘funmocks’ – that’s a disconcerting blend of ‘fun’ and ‘hammock’ – turn into walls, floors, slides and tunnels. It’s an ingenious play park in the sky, and they won’t want to come down. Æ 327-6 Miyazawa, Hanno, Saitama prefecture (Hanno Station). 0570 03 1066. tinyurl. com/TOTmetsa. 10am-8pm daily. FREE. Canoe rental per hour ¥2,000, primary school students ¥1,000, younger children FREE if riding together with parents, otherwise ¥500. Panza 90 min ¥2,000, 60 min ¥1,500, children aged 3-6 ¥1,000, FREE for younger children (primary school children and younger have to be accompanied by an adult).

Springtime in Tokyo

MOOMINVALLEY PARK

Moomins – the adorable white, troll-like creatures created by Finnish-Swedish artist Tove Jansson – are the stars at this theme park right beside Metsä Village. Moomin-related landmarks are scattered throughout the park, including a fully furnished replica of the Moominhouse. Opt for the one-day pass and you’ll get access to all the attractions. Everything at the park is family friendly, including the outdoor theatre with a liveaction Moomin story, and the Kokemus, a three-storey museum about Jansson and the origin of the Moomins. There’s also a treehouse playground, and older children can enjoy a thrilling zip-line ride – the 400m round-trip goes through the dense forest and over the lake. Don’t miss the world’s largest Moomin store, selling Moomin merch you never even knew existed. Æ 327-6 Miyazawa, Hanno, Saitama prefecture (Hanno Station). 0570 03 1066. tinyurl.com/TOTmoominvp. 10am-6pm daily. ¥2,500 (adv ¥2,300), primary school students and children aged four and older ¥1,500 (adv ¥1,300), FREE for younger children. Zip-line ¥1,500.

FUJI SUBARU LAND FOREST ADVENTURE YOKOHAMA

Located at the foot of Mt Fuji, Subaru Land offers dozens of attractions for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages. Dog lovers in particular should head straight for the Touch and Feel House to meet the park’s resident canines – you can even rent one (¥500 per 20 minutes) and take it with you to enjoy the property. Score a hole-in-one at the miniature golf course that takes you through World Heritage Site replicas, get lost in the gigantic wooden maze filled with riddles and stamp rallies, experience a 7m-high jump on the Sky Trampoline, or slide down the 50m Jumbo Slide. There’s also an obstacle course for dog owners to show off their pets’ spectacular agility and jumping skills.

FUNABASHI ANDERSEN PARK

Named after the Danish fairy-tale author Hans Christian Andersen, this vast green patch of about 40 hectares is one of Japan’s most popular theme parks. There may not be any roller coasters, but the park boasts a wide range of outdoor activities for both kids and adults, spread out over five different areas. Children can explore massive playgrounds, conquer obstacle courses, visit a petting zoo, go on a pony ride, participate in creative workshops or play in the water park in summer. The two main areas are connected by a bridge crossing a central lake surrounded by lush greenery, and you can take in the tranquil scenery by boarding a rowboat. The large windmill turns into an Instagram cliché in spring, when the whole scene is surrounded by colourful tulips. There are several replica farmhouses, based on the 19th-century buildings of Andersen’s birthplace, Odense in Denmark, which is a sister city of Funabashi.

Æ 6663-1 Kenmarubi, Funatsu, Fujikawaguchikomachi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi prefecture (Bus from Kawaguchiko Station). 0555 72 2239. subaruland.jp. Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9.30am-5pm, closed Thu; Dec-Mar 10am-4pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-4pm, closed Wed & Thu. AprNov ¥1,500, primary school students and children aged four and older ¥900; Dec-Mar ¥1,200, ¥600.

Æ 525 Kanehoricho, Funabashi, Chiba prefecture (Misaki Station). 047 457 6627. park-funabashi.or.jp. 9.30am-4pm, Sat, Sun hols between Apr 8-Oct 31 and Mar 20-Apr 7, Jun 15, Jul 20-Aug 21 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon (except hols and during spring, summer and winter breaks). ¥900, high school students ¥600, junior high and primary school students ¥200, children aged four and older ¥200, FREE for younger children.

With three different courses, this aerial adventure park is both a workout and a day out. The approximately 80-minute canopy course is family friendly, and features basic high-ropes activities like zip-lining, crossing suspension bridges and climbing rope ladders. The more challenging two-hour adventure course takes you much higher up into the trees and even includes a daring Tarzan swing. For the little ones, there’s a 45-minute kids course offering simpler activities and extra safety harnesses. If you prefer to stay on the ground, you can ride an electric mountain bike on a trail adventure around the forest. First-timers are given an optional one-hour lesson to help them get used to the trail before heading out. With so much open space, it’s hard to believe the park is just 75 minutes from central Tokyo. Æ 1425-4 Kamishiranecho, Asahi, Yokohama, Kanagawa prefecture. (Bus from Nakayama or Tsurugamine stations). 090 4750 0720. fa-yokohama.foret-aventure.jp/eng. 9am-3pm daily. Adventure course ¥3,800, Canopy course ¥2,800, Kids’ course ¥1,500.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

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WILL WALK FOR FOOD FRESH AIR, traditional streetscapes, colourful local characters, a relaxed stroll – enjoy all these with a snack in hand at Tokyo’s tabe-aruki (literally, eating and walking) streets. Since it’s generally considered a social faux pas to eat while walking in Japan – save for when you’re at a festival – these food streets are a rare phenomenon in Tokyo, thus adding an element of novelty to the experience. Spring is the ideal time to enjoy the outdoors and tabe-aruki is the perfect way to snack on a range of Japanese specialities while soaking up local culture and history. Here we’ve selected three of our favourite tabe-aruki destinations around town – so grab some napkins (things can get messy) and some cash (you can’t count on stalls taking cards), and discover your new favourite Tokyo pastime. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Tamagoyaki

SHIBAMATA Wander down a historical pilgrim route and sample local treats as you go Shibamata in Tokyo’s northeastern Katsushika ward is one of the few remaining examples of the shitamachi, Tokyo’s old working class neighbourhoods. With its small traditional shops and nearly 400-year-old temple, here you can get a glimpse of the Tokyo of yesteryear – and an authentic taste of its food, too. Leading from Shibamata Station all the way to the Taishakuten temple is the Taishakuten-Sando, an oldfashioned street with back-toback shops – some dating back centuries – selling traditional souvenirs and trinkets, as well as snacks. Note that most stores wrap up by around 3pm, and the popularity of the area means that some stores sell out much earlier, so it’s best to arrive mid-morning at the latest. After walking the street, be sure to take some time to enjoy the other cultural attractions of the area, too. Æ Shibamata Station

Masumoto Kameido is a popular local restaurant, but it serves street food, too. Look out for the bunch of fresh Kameido daikon, a speciality of the region dating back to the Edo period (1603-1868), running under a stream of cool water. Right beside it is a stand with Masumoto’s street food offering: agemochi (deep-fried mochi basted in soy sauce and wrapped in nori) and sticks of steaming Japanese-style omelette. The latter, called tamagoyaki, comes in two flavours, regular and aonori (powdered seaweed), and we recommend trying them both. Æ 7-7-10 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 6657 9889. masumoto.co.jp. 9am-6pm daily.

TORAYA

Kusa dango

Back in the Edo period (1603-1868), kusa dango (rice flour dumplings) were a Shibamata speciality popular with pilgrims visiting the nearby Taishakuten temple. There are a lot of kusa dango vendors along TaishakutenSando, but Toraya is our pick. The shop is over 100 years old and the dango are still made fresh daily. Topped with a house-made bean paste, the dumplings are springy and light and come in skewers of four for ¥150. Æ 7-7-5 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3659 8111. toraya.info. 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5.30pm.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

On a mission to experience Tokyo through her taste buds, Jessica Thompson explores some of the city’s most popular food streets food streets

MASUMOTO KAMEIDO

Springtime in Tokyo

To burn off those calories... KAMEYA HONPO

Seasonal and seaweed dango

The friendly staff here will guide you through the standard dango (rice flour dumplings) varieties as well as some more offbeat ones. For a savoury bite, try the age (deep-fried) dango or nori dango, which are best washed down with a cold beer. On the sweeter side, there’s a colourful selection of dango topped with seasonally flavoured shiro-an (white bean paste), such as yuzu in winter, cherry blossom and ryokucha (green tea) in spring, and chestnut in autumn. Æ 7-7-9 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 6670. kameyahonpo.com. 9am-5pm daily.

When you’ve had your fill of street eats, check out Taishakuten, an expansive Buddhist temple dating back almost 400 years. There’s also Yamamoto Tei, a teahouse in a grand old mansion with stunning traditional architecture and gardens. You should also try an oldfashioned ferry ride on the last remaining traditional Edo-era boat; the journey will take you across the Edogawa River on a famous passage called the yagiri-no-watashi.

TAKAGIYA Kusa mochi

Kusa-flavoured sweets are a speciality of the Katsushika area and they are made from local yomogi (Japanese mugwort), which is a popular ingredient in sweets for its distinctly grassy flavour and speckled green appearance. Takagiya started out over 100 years ago and sells a selection of sweets including kusa mochi (¥170) – mugwort-flavoured mochi rice cakes shaped like an English muffin and filled with red bean paste. The confection is lightly toasted, giving it a combination of chewy and crisp textures. Æ 7-7-4 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 3136. takagiya. co.jp. Café, 9am-5pm (last orders 4.30pm) daily.

ISHII

TACHIBANAYA

OJIGI CHAYA

Yokan are traditional Japanese sweets, made from sweetened bean or vegetable paste. To make the unique butter-grilled sweet potato yokan (butter-yaki imo-yokan; ¥200 each) at Ishii, Japanese sweet potato is mashed with a little salt, then shaped into blocks and fried on a teppan grill in sizzling butter. They’re served hot, fresh off the grill, which is the best way to enjoy them. Let the alluring smell of caramelised butter guide you to the shop.

While you can find senbei (rice crackers) anywhere in Japan, getting handmade ones straight from the grill is something special. This 100-year-old shop offers sesame, aonori (powdered seaweed) and soy sauce-flavoured senbei. Although the range has grown to include miso, karashi pepper, granule sugar and sakura ebi (tiny dried prawns), the three original flavours are hard to beat. The crackers range from ¥70 to ¥130 apiece.

Located right at the entrance to TaishakutenSando, Ojigi Chaya’s most popular dish is motsuni (¥500) – a steaming bowl of pork innards and vegetables in a light but umami broth, perfect for pairing with one of the shop’s beers. We also love the gyu-suji (beef tendon) croquette (¥150): potato and beef coated in breadcrumbs and fried until crisp, and its meat-free equivalent, the satsumaimo (sweet potato) croquette.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Butter-grilled sweet potato yokan

Æ 7-6-20 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 1749. shibamata-ishii. net. 8.30am-5pm, Sun & hols 8.30am-6pm.

Senbei

Æ 7-7-6 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 3657 0928. shibamata.net/ shop/jpg/tachibana/tatibanaya. 9.30am-5pm daily.

Motsuni and croquettes

Æ 7-1-4 Shibamata, Katsushika. 03 6806 9227. ojigichaya.com. 11am-10pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-10pm. April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Springtime in Tokyo

YANAKA GINZA An old-fashioned shopping street with traditional and modern snacks With its blend of old and modern Tokyo, friendly neighbourhood felines and winding flower-lined streets, Yanaka makes for an easy and relaxed day trip. Be sure to visit Yanaka Ginza, a traditional shopping street with around 60 stores selling everything from ceramics to groceries – and, of course, plenty to eat and drink. We recommend starting at the top of Yuyake Dandan steps, which offers a view straight down Yanaka Ginza. Æ Nippori, Nishi-Nippori, Sendagi stations

HAKKODO Grilled onigiri

A recent edition to Yanaka Ginza, Hakkodo’s main offering is grilled onigiri (rice balls). The unique flavours on offer mean these aren’t your typical onigiri. Try miso and parmesan, salt and Japanese pickles, soy sauce and bonito flakes, or butter and soy sauce, all for ¥330 each. They’re cooked to perfection, with a chewy crust and fluffy interior. If you’re thirsty, try one of Hakkodo’s special fermented drinks like the tangy and refreshing fruit vinegar soda. Æ 3-12-1 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5834 7737. hakkodo.tokyo. 11am-4.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols).

Chestnut soft serve

Waguriya is all about chestnut confectionery, serving everything from mont blancs to choux pastries filled with chestnut cream and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) made with the sweet nut. For a treat on the go, you can buy a cone of chestnut soft serve for ¥463. It features all-natural ingredients, including a chestnut paste that’s made using nuts from forests in Ibaraki prefecture. The soft serve is creamy with the distinctly earthy and slightly sweet taste of the shop’s signature ingredient. Æ 3-9-14 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5834 2243. waguriya.com. 11am-6pm, closed Mon (except in spring and autumn).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Sweet potato and sesame skewers

Chonmage means ‘topknot’ in Japanese, the traditional hairstyle of choice for samurai and sumo. At Chonmage Imo Tamaru, skewers of chonmage-shaped sweet potato (¥350 each) are dipped in black or white sesame seeds and cooked. The seeds become nutty and toasty, popping and crunching in your mouth, contrasting perfectly with the warm, pillowy sweet potato. They contain no additives, so you can pretend these delectable treats are making up your recommended serve of vegetables for the day.

SUZUKI

Æ 3-11-15 Yanaka, Taito. 03 5814 3460. 11am-7pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols).

Æ 3-15-5 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa. 03 3821 4526. 10.30am-6pm, closed Mon & Tue.

Mince croquettes

Established in 1980, this store makes 100 percent beef mince croquettes (menchi katsu) using a blend of highquality local and Australian beef. The succulent mixture is coated in breadcrumbs and fried until golden, then served piping hot. Just one is never enough, so try the potato and mince croquette, or the crumbed mushrooms and mini aubergines filled with mince.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

WAGURIYA

CHONMAGE IMO TAMARU

Springtime in Tokyo

TSUKIJI MARKET There’s still plenty to eat at the bustling Tsukiji, even after the inner market has moved to Toyosu After a bit of uncertainty following the opening of the new Toyosu Fish Market in 2018, the Tsukiji Market is once again one of the best places in the city to visit for street eats. Many of the market restaurants have food stalls out front, and the seafood shops sell samples of fresh fish and shellfish to eat on the spot. In the grid of narrow streets and alleys, you’ll find vendors tucked into the most improbable of spaces. Tsukiji is famed for its raw seafood offerings, but there’s also plenty of the cooked variety, grilled fresh to order, as well as non-seafood options, sweets and drinks. Stores open by 9am, so you can go for breakfast – and even wash it down with sake or beer, if it’s that kind of morning. Æ Tsukiji Station

TSUKIJI SOLATSUKI Ichigo daifuku

The gem-like form of ichigo daifuku makes them pop amongst the seafood offerings at Tsukiji: a ball of sweetened bean paste, wrapped in mochi (rice cake) dough, with a ripe strawberry in the middle. The juicy flesh of the fresh strawberry makes these mochi a must. At Solatsuki, you can go for the classic red bean paste, or experiment with variations like yomogi (Japanese mugwort), pastry cream, mango, yuzu, matcha and edamame. They cost ¥350 per piece. Æ 4-11-10 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 6228 4500. soratsuki.jp. 8am-3pm daily.

SHOURO

Tamagoyaki sandwich

Established in 1924 as a sushi shop, Shouro switched to tamagoyaki during WWII and has been specialising in Japanese omelette ever since. You can buy tamagoyaki on a stick or in little bite-sized pieces, but we recommend the tamagoyaki sando (sandwich) for ¥500. It’s filled with a juicy omelette, smeared with Japanese mayonnaise and encased in fresh shokupan (white bread). Even better, from 10am-2pm each day, you can try your hand at making tamagoyaki and take your efforts home – for free! Æ 4-13-13 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 3543 0582. shouro.co.jp. 6am-3pm, Sun & hols 7am-4pm.

MAGUROYA KUROGIN

Tuna sashimi and sushi

Kakigoya is a seafood izakaya with a stall out front selling steamed oysters and grilled scallops to order. Giant scallops (¥500 each) are cooked in a combination of butter, soy sauce and sake until they’re tender while plump oysters are steamed in a metal tin (¥500 for two). If raw oysters are your thing, you can knock them back freshly shucked for ¥700 apiece. Wine and draft beer are available by the cup for ¥500, too.

Maguroya specialises in tuna; here you can try the choice cuts in sashimi and nigiri-style. At the top of the range is the kamatoro (special fatty tuna, ¥800 for a piece of nigiri), which is the highly prized neck meat. Next in line is the otoro (fatty tuna, ¥550), followed by chu-toro (medium fatty tuna, ¥400) and akami (lean tuna, ¥250). If you’d rather skip the rice, try the sashimi plates – you can get three types of tuna for ¥2,000.

Æ 4-10-14 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 6228 4880. minato-kakigoya.com. 9am-4pm daily.

Æ 4-10-12 Tsukiji, Chuo. 03 3544 7440. kurogin.jp. 8.30am-2pm daily.

KAKIGOYA

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Grilled scallops and steamed oysters

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

KISA TOYOSHIMA

& PIECE

No forks, knives or chopsticks for this omakase course: & Piece (or ‘And Piece’, to its friends) offers a uniquely fun and playful dining experience by only serving dishes that are meant to be eaten by hand. Chef Masaki Yamagishi’s food, which combines Japanese ingredients with French cooking techniques, will definitely engage all five of your senses. The dishes are presented like dainty little treasure pieces, from foie gras mousse disguised as a pair of red lips to ogura toast ‘puzzle pieces’ made with butter and anko (sweet red bean paste). Yamagishi, who spent a number of years working at the Joël Robuchon Restaurant in Ebisu, is particularly gifted in French confectionery and his speciality financiers and Basque cheesecake can be enjoyed fresh out of the oven if you call to request them in advance. This unconventional restaurant lets you rediscover a curiosity for food and will leave you dreaming of the scent of brown butter for days to come.

Table for one

Forget casual ramen joints and fast food chains. Emma Steen shows you where to treat yourself to a good meal even if you’re dining solo

Æ 3-25-4 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6407 9036. andpiece.com. Bakery 12noon-6pm, dinner 6pm-8pm, closed Tue & Wed. Omakase course ¥4,200.

WE’VE SAID IT BEFORE and we’ll say it again (and again), when

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

KISA TOYOSHIMA

it comes to dining out, we are unequivocally spoiled for choice in Tokyo. In other parts of the world, solo diners might feel lonely or a bit embarrassed about the absence of company when hitting more upscale parts of the city, but that’s not the case in Tokyo. Instead of sitting across from a companion, you’re seated at the counter of a vibrant open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs in action as they dish up your omakase course and fill you in on the best produce of the season. You won’t find your average noodle shops and chain restaurants on this list. We’re taking the game up a notch with the best openkitchen restaurants for serious bon vivants, which are also perfect for discerning solo diners. Go on, treat yourself.

MARK’S TABLE

Tucked away on a backstreet in Ginza is the sleek yet intimate kitchen of Mark’s Table. Chef and owner Mark Sekita quit finance to follow his father’s footsteps in the food industry and promptly signed up for culinary school. He opened this restaurant in September 2017 after spending a year working under chef Michael Anthony at New York’s Gramercy Tavern, and serves up a monthly changing five-course menu of classic American dishes with a Japanese twist. Passionate about reinventing dishes closest to his heart, Mark often incorporates traditional family recipes in his menu to share the flavours of his childhood. While dishes like the macaroni may look familiar, the tastes will challenge everything you thought you knew about flavour combinations. A dash of shoyu to cranberry sauce prevents it from being too sweet, and adding dashi to butternut squash soup makes for a moreish broth that you don’t get tired of. Dinner at Mark’s Table is the kind of occasion that wouldn’t be complete without a glass of wine as you watch the chef work his magic behind the counter, so ask for the recommended glass of red or white, all of which is sourced from California, a homage to Mark’s San Franciscan roots. Æ 8-4-3 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 3571 1900. markstable.com. 6pm-11pm, closed Sat & Sun. Chef’s menu ¥10,500.

FUSHIKINO

KISA TOYOSHIMA

In 2011, Yusuke Miyashita opened his restaurant Fushikino, serving a banquet of Japanese dishes paired with craft sake, in the stone-cobbled neighbourhood of Kagurazaka. Miyashita is a licensed sake brewer, sommelier and Enshu-style teaceremony master who pairs seasonal sake with traditional multi-course kaiseki dishes created by renowned chef Yoshio Aramaki. The Michelin-starred restaurant only seats nine people at a time, and as you settle down at the chestnut counter and eye the antique tableware, you know you’re in for something special. Behind the counter, Miyashita warms a flask to reach a temperature of 85°C, ensuring the fats in the fish or meat of the dishes will melt in your mouth as you sip throughout your meal. Every evening features at least one vintage sake, which has been aged over ten years, as well as a blend of two sake that Miyashita combines to match the food. The meal concludes with a bowl of rich matcha, which Miyashita whisks in front of you to revive you from the spell of the potent rice wine.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Æ 2F, 4-3-11 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). 03 3269 4556. fushikino.com. 6.30pm-11pm, closed Sun. ¥12,000 for seven courses, ¥15,000 for nine courses, sake pairing ¥6,000.

LOCALE

BLIND DONKEY

Æ 1-17-22 Meguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). 03 6874 6719. locale.tokyo. Wed-Fri 6pm-10pm, Sat 9.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 9.30am-2pm, 6pm-9pm, closed Mon & Tue.

Æ 3-17-4 Uchikanda, Chiyoda (Kanda, Awajicho stations) .050 3184 0529. theblinddonkey.jp. 5.30pm-11.30pm (last orders 10pm), closed Sun & Mon.

Chef Katy Cole brings her diners closer to produce at her farm-to-table restaurant in Meguro. Everything served in the warmly lit restaurant is organic, with produce arriving a few times a week from small farms in Hokkaido, Ehime and Kochi. The array of vegetables from the organic farms result in the most brilliantly multi-coloured dishes in Tokyo, showcasing a kaleidoscope of seasonal fare. Her creations, such as avocado with lentils and fuchsia-pink shibazuke yoghurt, are the kind of dishes celebrity nutritionists wish they had thought of for their cookbooks but didn’t. Yet Cole has no intention of branding her restaurant as a shrine for Instagram fanatics (though they no doubt lose their heads over the rustic flower arrangements and the gorgeous tableware she handcrafted herself). Instead, she is set on her philosophy of serving honest food with the best local ingredients. If you don’t go for a whimsical wine dinner, go for the weekend brunch and treat yourself to an avocado toast with perfectly poached eggs to remind you of all that is good and right with the world.

While neighbouring taverns cater to the after-work penchants of Kanda’s salarymen, Blind Donkey’s farm-to-table restaurant is an unexpected deviant in its district. Headed by Jérôme Waag and Shin Harakawa, the restaurant is a homage to local produce and everything here, save for the wine and olive oil, is sourced from small Japanese farms. Waag, who worked at Alice Waters’s restaurant Chez Panisse in California for 25 years, insisted on being rooted in a historic part of Tokyo, where he would bring out the best in Japanese ingredients with European cooking techniques. The menu highlights the best ingredients of the season and it’s difficult not to let your eyes rule your stomach as you sit at the rustic kitchen table, covered with colourful bowls of ingredients, aglow with linen lanterns. Vegetable dishes are a category all of their own here, and while sweet roasted carrots with mikan glaze can be enjoyed by themselves, they would also make an excellent accompaniment to heartier mains such as wild boar braised with shiitake mushrooms and red wine served over polenta.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Eating & Drinking

TIME OUT LOVES

Commune Omotesando Food trucks and farm produce in an alfresco setting – welcome to your new favourite hangout. By Jessica Thompson

RUN BY THE TEAM behind the hip Farmers Market @ UNU, Commune Omotesando is a casual, colourful and leafy enclave of food trucks with open-air seating just off the ritzy Aoyama-dori. There’s around a dozen food and drink vendors, free wi-fi, and the area is now smoke- and booze-free – although there is a bar selling non-alcoholic beer, wine and mocktails. Commune often hosts events and festivals, like the monthly Raw Tokyo market, which stocks vintage clothes, jewellery and other knick-knacks. Here are our favourite eateries at Commune.

BROOKLYN RIBBON FRIES

Despite the name, these crisp paper-thin spiral fries have nothing to do with the Big Apple. In fact, they are made from premium Hokkaido potatoes and come in a range of flavours – sea salt and black pepper, allspice, cinnamon sugar, onion gratin soup, and butter soy sauce (¥600 small, ¥800 large). For a more substantial meal, pair these with a chicken karaage burger (¥950) – a hefty assemblage of golden, juicy fried chicken, Cajun-spiced mayonnaise, creamy coleslaw, tomato and lettuce on a toasted bun. Wash it all down with the house-made ginger ale.

Æ 3-13 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). commune.tokyo. 9.30am-8pm daily.

Æ brooklynribbonfries.com. 11am-10pm daily.

THE FARMER’S MARKET ZONE

STOCKHOLM ROAST

Æ 9.30am-8pm daily.

Æ stockholmroast.jp. 9am-8pm, Sat, Sun & Mon 11am-8pm.

If you want a dose of rural Japan in innerTokyo, come to the Farmer’s Market Zone for fresh produce any day of the week. The setup, much like the Farmers Market @UNU, is stylish, with cheery vendors and vibrant-hued produce in wooden crates. There’s organic and seasonal fruit and vegetables from across Japan, as well as pickles, preserves and assorted condiments.

At the street-facing front of Commune you’ll find a cosy little caffeine hut, home to the Tokyo outpost of Swedish roastery, Stockholm Roast. Pull up a stool and browse the selection of art and culture books while you sip your coffee, or take one of the outdoor seats for a spot of people-watching. Baked goods from popular artisan bakeries Katane and Chez Mikki are available fresh daily.

365 PROBIOTICS ORIGINAL

The folks at 365 Probiotics Original craft their thick, silky ice cream using 100 percent plantbased ingredients like organic soy milk and sprouted brown rice puree. There’s classic flavours such as vanilla and strawberry, plus some distinctly local ones including matcha and shine muscat, all at ¥540 a cup. We love the sake lees ice cream, with its slightly funky, boozy flavour, which pairs beautifully with a scoop of the rich chocolate. Æ fb.com/365probiotics. 9.30am-8pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

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Shopping & Style Style specialists These designed- and made-in-Japan brands are single-minded in their pursuit of perfection for their one chosen product. By Darren Gore THE JAPANESE TENDENCY to focus obsessively on

a single subject is, though bordering on stereotype, nonetheless very much a thing. Otaku and their obsessions are famed worldwide, but at the other end of the style spectrum Tokyo is also home to clothing and accessory labels fanatically dedicated to the pursuit of perfection in one single type of product. Contrary to popular perception, many demonstrate that ‘Made in Japan’ quality can be surprisingly affordable. From long-established names to some up-and-coming younger talent, we take a tour of the city’s style specialists.

Maker’s Watch Knot Gallery Shop Maker’s Watch Knot, hailing from Tokyo’s Kichijoji neighbourhood, achieves the impossible-sounding feat of offering high-quality, made-in-Japan timepieces at affordable prices: watches start at around ¥17,000. The company has direct ties (hence the ‘Knot’ in the brand name) with an assortment of artisan component manufacturers scattered up and down the country. Strap suppliers include the Tochigi Leather tannery while watch casings are sourced from, among others, Fukushima-based metal workshop Hayashi Seiki Seizo. This ‘gallery store’, located off the boutique- and eatery-lined Nakamichidori street, has a chic interior that belies the low price point of its wares. The glass that usually comes between wristwatches and potential buyers is absent; you’re free to pick up and try on anything from the extensive selection. Styles range from elegantly minimal to chunky, dial and gauge-bedecked designs, and personalisation is encouraged at the store. Knot’s ‘custom-made’ option can be performed by customers themselves, with no tools required: simply select a combination of watch and strap, and you’re good to go. Æ1F, 2-33-8 Kichijoji-Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 27 6360. knot-designs.com. 11am-7pm, Fri & Sat 11am-8pm.

CAG - Chapeaux Artisanaux de Gris

This cosy atelier-shop in Tokyo’s Sendagi district was opened by Gris Uchiyama to showcase the chic range of headwear she designs and makes single-handedly on the premises. The women’s and men’s collections are arrayed across wooden shelves that combine to form the same ‘house’ shape used in CAG’s logo. Grab a couple that take your fancy, then park yourself on the leather sofa to try them on. Should your favourite need a change of colour or fabric, or another tweak to make it just your style, Uchiyama offers a semi-order option, with a turnaround of between two weeks and a month and a half. Off-theshelf hats are priced from around ¥14,000. Æ2-39-5 Sendagi, Bunkyo (Sendagi Station). 03 6276 8400. gris-hat.com. Thu & Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-6pm, closed Mon-Wed.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Shopping & Style

Hosono

Some of the toughest bags to be found in Tokyo come from Hosono, a storied local manufacturer famed among outdoorsy types for supplying gear to Antarctic explorers. Operating from a sole shop in Nihonbashi, Hosono is run by a descendant of the man who established the company in nearby Kanda way back in 1912. Hosono products, which are designed to last a long time, owe their durability to the use of ‘sail cloth’, a heavy-duty, paraffin-treated fabric used for boat sails, combined with a manufacturing process largely done by hand. These bags are surprisingly affordable, with rucksacks priced from ¥16,500. Colour options are extensive: most items are available in a choice of 18 hues that includes lavender and a ‘wasabi green’, as well as the more typical military olive and sand shades. The Hosono workshop is adjacent to the store, and customers are invited to pop in and take a look. Æ1-6-13 Nihonbashi Horidomecho, Chuo (Ningyocho Station). 03 6667 0458. hosono-jp.com. 9am-6pm, closed Wed.

Vivify

At this bijou workshop and store located a quick stroll from the Nakameguro riverside, local brand Vivify creates what it calls ‘urban craft jewellery’: predominantly silver accessories with a distinctly handmade feel. The natural wood-lined atelier and shop space has a counter spanning most of one wall, behind which a jewellery maker can often be observed at work. Outside, a terrace complete with seating and cacti offers space to relax and contemplate your purchase. Silver aside, Vivify’s designs also utilise other materials including gold, glass, stones and beads, with the collection encompassing earrings, body piercings, rings, bangles, bracelets and more. Rings start at around ¥5,500, with necklaces ranging from a couple of thousand to about ¥50,000.

Studio d’Artisan

Amongst jeans aficionados it’s almost universally agreed that the best Japanese brands now produce this typically American garment to a higher standard than anybody in the US. Japan began sewing up the high-end denim market with the late 1980s rise of the ‘Osaka Five’, a clutch of Kansai-based labels that revived techniques elsewhere abandoned in favour of mass production, and prominent amongst this bunch was Studio d’Artisan. Represented in Tokyo by this Ebisu store, the brand was the first in Japan to combine shuttle loom weaving, which creates the fabric’s selvedge (or ‘self-edge’) visible when you roll up the jean cuff, with a process known as ‘hank dyeing’. The process, which takes many days to complete, creates a deeper hue than other methods while retaining the cotton’s natural softness. Studio d’Artisan’s popular SD-101, a straight-legged, regular-fit pair of jeans, sells for ¥23,980. There’s humour at work amidst all the earnest artisanal workmanship: jeans feature a pair of pigs on the rear patch, with the porcine duo also appearing on tees and sweats. The shop even has a vintage, US-made sewing machine on hand, to give alterations an authentic ‘chain stitch’ that modern machines can’t replicate. Æ1F, 1-16-3 Ebisu-nishi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6455 0018. dartisan.co.jp. 11am-8pm, closed Wed (except hols).

Æ1-3-5 Nakameguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3760 7922. vivify-net.com. 12noon-8pm, closed Wed.

HOSONO, VIVIFY, SONOMITSU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Sonomitsu

Sonomitsu, a maker of ready-to-wear and bespoke leather shoes founded by designer Hajime Sonodo in 1998, takes an unhurried approach appropriate for the tranquil Yanaka neighbourhood, where the brand’s atelier and only shop are both located. Sonodo, who personally signs the insole of each completed pair of his men’s and women’s shoes, learnt his craft by building his own business and learning from the craftsmen he hired. He brings the know-how gained from this to a uniquely elegant collection of shoes that

draws upon classic silhouettes, yet doesn’t shy away from experimentation. Everything is done by hand, from design to last-making, sewing and finishing, and fittings are a pleasant experience thanks to the warmly inviting air of this gallery-like store. Ready-to-wear styles start at around ¥37,000. Æ2-18-6 Yanaka, Taito (Sendagi Station). 03 3823 7178. sonomitsu.com. Mon, Tue & Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat & Sun 12noon-7pm, closed Wed & Thu.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Into the woods

JOOKO3/PIXTA

Things to Do

MACHA/PIXTA

SPRING CALLS FOR nature walks, hiking adventures and water sports, and you can do all that without leaving Tokyo. Plan a trip to Okutama – about 90 minutes by train from Shinjuku Station – in the Chichibu Tama Kai National Park and recharge by enjoying the stunning scenery around Lake Okutama, hiking Mt Mitake or soaking in an outdoor onsen (hot spring). Here are our highlights.

Walk on water at the Ogouchi Reservoir

Start your Okutama outing by visiting the Ogouchi Reservoir. Surrounded by mountains and verdant forests, the man-made Lake Okutama was created back in 1957 when the Ogouchi Dam went up across the Tama River. Hop on the bus from Okutama Station and get off at Ogouchi Shrine, directly in front of the lake’s Mugiyama floating bridge. The distinctive crossing makes for a great photo spot with the dark blue water on either side and the lush greenery in the background. Take in the scenery and then walk back towards the interactive Water and Green Museum, located between the bridge and Okutama Station. Here you can gain a deeper insight into the history of Okutama, the native wildlife and the Ogouchi Reservoir. The on-site restaurant even serves an Instagram-worthy Ogouchi Dam-inspired curry dish. Æ Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Escape the concrete jungle and unwind in Okutama, a natural paradise in Western Tokyo. By Tabea Greuner

Ride the rapids on the Tama River

River rafting is one of Okutama’s most popular water sports and the Tama River has 4.5 kilometres of ideal rafting conditions. Don’t worry if you’re a newbie – the staff at Big Smile Rafting will explain everything from safety procedures to paddling styles. During the three-hour ride, you and your team will conquer white-water and rapid currents and, if you’re feeling extra brave, dive off rocks into the water. Once you’ve conquered the river, you’ll be driven back to where you started, and the staff will share photos taken during the trip. Æ Big Smile Rafting, 1-178-1 Mitake, Ome (Mitake Station). 0771 29 5370. gekiryu.com/en/okutama. End-Apr to mid-Oct; 9am-12noon, 1.30pm-4.30pm, additional slots in high season 10am-1pm, 2.30pm-5pm. ¥4,580 (includes life jacket & insurance; primary school students have to be accompanied by an adult, younger children are not eligible to participate). Bring swimwear and a towel (waterproof shoes available for rent ¥300, wetsuit will be provided).

Conquer Mount Mitake Hiking fans will love this lush mountain close to Mitake Station. If you’re reasonably fit, the walk to the summit is roughly 90 minutes, or you can take the Mitake Tozan cable car, which drops you off 20-30 minutes’ walk from the top. The ancient Musashi Mitake Shrine graces the peak of Mt Mitake, and whichever route you take you’ll pass through the tiny Mitakesan village, home to a few souvenir shops and old minshuku (Japanese-style inns) that have been serving both pilgrims and tourists for decades. Stop by the combined guest- and teahouse Higashibaba for some traditional Japanese sweets or a light meal. One of the oldest minshuku on the mountain, this striking wooden building with its thatched roof has been designated an Intangible Cultural Property of Tokyo. The Musashi Mitake Shrine greets you at the summit along with gorgeous panoramic views of the Kanto area. A 90-minute hiking trail, which starts and ends at the shrine and loops around the mountain, takes you through the dense forest. On your way you’ll pass the Nagaodaira Observatory as well as the Ayahiro Falls and a rock garden with impressive moss-covered stone formations.

Æ Mitake, Ome (Mitake Station).

Soak away your troubles at Moegi no Yu

Fish for Nippara trout

For some serious relaxation, Moegi no Yu is just a 10-minute walk from Okutama Station. The water at this hot spring bath is sourced from one of Japan’s oldest rock strata, a Palaeozoic layer deep under the Okutama area. The water contains metaboric acid and fluorine, and is said to soothe neuralgia, muscle and joint pain, stiff shoulders, bruises, sprains and more. Enjoy views of Okutama’s mountains and forests from the indoor bath, while the rotenburo (open-air bath) gives you a clear view of the Tama River winding its way through the valley. Don’t have time for a full dip? Try the communal ashiyu (foot bath) for just ¥100. If you feel peckish after soaking in the healing water, head to the on-site restaurant serving local Okutama dishes. We recommend the nekkara udon, a very spicy bowl of noodles made with bonito flakes and local wasabi.

The Tama isn’t the only river running through Okutama. The nearby Nippara River, close to Okutama Station, is the place to go to cast a line. At Hikawa International Trout Fishing, you can catch trout by rod or – if you’re fast enough – by hand before enjoying a barbecue with your day’s catch. You can rent all the equipment you need on site and the experienced staff will help you with angling, and they even gut the fish for you (¥50 per fish) before you skewer and grill it. A one-day pass allows you to catch and eat as many fish as you like. If you’d rather a meal cooked by someone else, there’s also a café on site offering homemade soba, curry dishes, a selection of sweets and free coffee. Æ 397-1 Hikawa, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). 0428 83 2147. okutamas. co.jp/kokusai. Mar-Nov 8am-4pm, Dec-Feb 9.30am-3pm, closed Mon & Tue from Dec-Feb (open if hols). One day pass (entrance fee, equipment hire and unlimited fishing) ¥3,300, from 12noon ¥1,700 (entrance fee, equipment hire and fishing of five fish), entrance without fishing ¥300 per day, FREE for pre-school children. Note: swimming in the river and open fire at the riverbanks is prohibited.

Æ 119-1 Hikawa, Okutama-machi, Nishitama-gun (Okutama Station). 0428 82 7770. okutamas.co.jp/ moegi. Apr-Nov 10am-8pm (last entry 7pm), Dec-Mar 10am-7pm (6pm), Ashiyu Apr-Nov 10am-5pm, Dec-Mar 10am-4pm; closed Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). Three hours ¥850, primary school students ¥450, FREE for younger children; every additional hour ¥200; Ashiyu ¥100.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Things to Do

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5km IMPERIAL PALACE ROUTE This gentle course in the city centre lets you take in the serene grounds of the Imperial Palace. It’s accessible from nine different stations, but we recommend starting at Hibiya, Sakuradamon or Nijubashimae stations. All three have coin lockers for your belongings and boast easy access to our starting line: the Imperial Palace Front Gardens, where you’ll see the iconic Nijubashi bridge leading into the inner palace grounds. Run anticlockwise following the pedestrian path along the moat and walls surrounding the East Gardens. You’ll reach the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo about two kilometres in. Further up, there’s a park on Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

the left with water fountains; rehydrate here before the last leg of the run. The final kilometre takes you downhill along the treelined moat that expands until the Sakuradamon Gate. There are run stations nearby – including Joglis (Hanzomon), Adidas Runbase (Nagatacho), Raffine Running Style Neo (Hibiya) and Run Pit (Takebashi) – equipped with showers, running gear rentals and energy drinks.

Post-run: Le Petit Mec (8am-8pm daily) serves up freshly baked goods and ciabatta sandwiches. For an egg and toast breakfast, seek out Q Cafe (8am-10pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm). Both venues are located just outside Hibiya Station.

Things to Do

4km NAKAMEGURO ROUTE

Home to many trendy shops and cafés, Nakameguro makes a great jogging spot for beginners with its picturesque river paths that are perfect for a leisurely run. This charming neighbourhood is especially busy when the cherry trees flanking the river are in full bloom, so get here early in the day to avoid the crowd. From Nakameguro Station, which has a limited number of coin lockers, take East Exit 1 and head towards the Tsutaya bookstore and on to the Meguro River. Whichever way you decide to run, you’ll be running under the endless brigade of cherry blossom trees and passing by cool coffee shops, gastropubs, minimalist stores and indie art galleries. Make sure to cross the iconic red Nakano

Bridge and get some photos, too – it’s usually less crowded there. Then, it’s a simple loop back to the station. Post-run: Visit Trueberry Nakameguro (9am-6.30pm daily) for a healthy breakfast and fill up with green smoothies and acai bowls. For something more substantial, the Onigily Cafe (8am-4pm daily) offers a breakfast set with a choice of two onigiri, pickles, miso soup and a drink for only ¥540.

15km

RAINBOW BRIDGE ROUTE If you’re looking for a jog that lets you enjoy the Tokyo skyline, we suggest the Rainbow Bridge, stretching across Tokyo Bay to Shibaura Pier. The bridge walkway is only 1.7 kilometres end to end, but if you want more out of your run, you can conquer an additional 13-kilometre course in just under two hours. Once you’ve crossed the Rainbow Bridge from Odaiba, turn right and head north along the Yurikamome line and past the Hamarikyu Gardens. If you have some time, take a detour through the gardens for ¥300 – get a sip of matcha from the teahouse before continuing your run. Cross the Tsukiji-o Bridge and keep going straight for about three kilometres. You’ll see several Tokyo Olympic venues on the way. When you hit Ariake Station, take a right to circle back to Odaiba, where you’ll see the Giant Sky Wheel in Palette Town. Daiba, Odaiba-kaihinkoen, Tokyo Teleport and Aomi stations all have lockers. For the ultimate warm-down, go to Oedo Onsen Monogatari to soak in natural hot spring baths or relax in a rock salt sauna or foot bath. Post-run: Fuel up with bagels or an acai banana smoothie at Crux Kafeo (7.30am-7pm, Sat 12noon-6pm, closed Sun & hols). The Open Bakery offers baguette and ciabatta sandwiches along with its premium Daiba roasted coffee.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

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Æ7-7 Ueno Koen, Taito (Ueno Station). 050 5541 8600. www.nmwa.go.jp/en. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm).

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Æ3-7-6 Kyobashi, Chuo (Kyobashi Station). 050 5541 8600. www.nfaj.go.jp/english. 11am-6.30pm (until 8pm on the last Friday of the month).

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Æ7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato (Nogizaka Station). 050 5541 8600. www.nact.jp/english. 10am-6pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm).

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Æ4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita, Osaka (Watanabebashi Station). 06 6447 4680. www.nmao.go.jp/en/index.html. 10am-5pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm).

!"#$%&'()*&+$234#35$)6$2)?#-*$,-'/$@1)') V&$*#$15%63%#%(&21('&51%<,6'1%$6%W1&#3%V"(&31A%$"1%9#$&63#,%B*'1*:%68%B651(3% C($A%U-6$6%DB6BCUE%7#'%#3%#331>%68%$"1%9#$&63#,%B*'1*:%68%B651(3%C($%&3%R6/-6% +186(1%+1<6:&3)%&351413513$%&3%XYZ?;%!&$"%#%:&''&63%68%<6,,1<$&3)%#35%4(1'1(2&3)% F@$"H<13$*(-%#($76(/'%8(6:%+6$"%O#4#3%#35%#(6*35%$"1%76(,5A%B6BCU0'%41(:#313$% <6,,1<$&63%68%#(6*35%X[A@@@%76(/'%13<6:4#''1'%4#&3$&3)A%'<*,4$*(1A%4"6$6)(#4"-A% <1(#:&<'%#35%:6(1;%C,,%$"&'%&'%5(#73%*463%$6%86(:%<63'&'$13$,-%<6:41,,&3)%'41<&#,% 1>"&+&$&63'A%7&$"%B6BCU%#,'6%4,#-&3)%"6'$%$6%76(,5H<,#''%$6*(&3)%'"67';%C8$1(%)1$$&3)% -6*(%<*,$*(#,%8&>A%"1#5%$6%$"1%<#8K0'%$(#3M*&,%#35%,1#8-%6413%$1((#<1;% ÆOkazaki Enshojicho, Sakyo, Kyoto (Higashiyama Station). 075 761 4111. www.momak.go.jp/English. 9.30am-5pm (Fri & Sat until 8pm).

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Art & Culture Flower power

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

theatre and garden design, thanks to a group of artists managed by the feudal lords, called the doboshu. The doboshu were responsible for aesthetics and techniques, and many who chose to specialise in flower arranging formed their own style of ikebana known as tatebana, where branches were stood upright in the centre of the vase. From there, different masters of ikebana emerged with their own unique styles and techniques that are still taught in ikebana schools today. During the Meiji era (18681912), the government

MANAKO FLOWER ACADEMY

IKEBANA , also known as kado, is one of Japan’s most ancient art forms. While the act of arranging flowers spans across various cultures, ikebana is distinguished by its conscientious nature and the different approaches taken by its different schools. Over several centuries, more than 1,000 schools of ikebana have formed in Japan and abroad, each with different philosophies and guidelines on how to best arrange plants and flowers. Ikebana has numerous denominations; branches that stem from the same roots but have significant distinctions. Thought to have been introduced to Japan from China as a Buddhist practice, ikebana was first performed by Buddhist monks who arranged the flowers as offerings to the deities. During the Muromachi period (about 1338-1573), the art form blossomed along with other culturally significant traditions such as the tea ceremony, Noh

encouraged the inclusion of ikebana in a girl’s education as they believed it would help make them ‘good wives and wise mothers’. However, before then, it was a tradition that was only practiced by men. In fact, it was said that many war generals took up ikebana as a way to centre their minds and come up with an effective battle plan. Today the meditative practice is open to all. While ikebana requires years

‘Ikebana was first performed by Buddhist monks...’ 56

of studying to be a master, don’t let that deter you from trying your hand at this ancient art form. Apart from adding to the aesthetic of your home, flower arranging can be extremely therapeutic and grounding, so one can only benefit from learning more about the craft. Go join a trial class or head to an ikebana exhibition to see flowers like you’ve never seen them before.

IKEBANA X HYAKUDAN KAIDAN 2020; PHOTO FROM PREVIOUS EXHIBITION

All you need to know about ikebana, the traditional Japanese art of flower arranging, including where to try it for yourself. By Emma Steen

Art & Culture

IKEBANA EXHIBITION

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

IKEBANA CLASSES

Sogetsu Kaikan

Sogetsu Kaikan isn’t only limited to classrooms but also features viewing spaces for visitors to admire ikebana for free. The fifth floor has a Japanese-style room with tatami mats, where you can view ikebana as it is traditionally displayed alongside artworks that are selected from the Sogetsu collection. Also worth viewing is the Sogetsu Plaza, created by the late artist Isamu Noguchi. This indoor stone garden is regularly used as an exhibition space for ikebana as well as live performances. Æ 7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato (Aoyama-Itchome Station). 03 3408 1154. tinyurl.com/TOTsogetsu. 9.30am-5.30pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols. ¥4,140 for trial lesson.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

MANAKO FLOWER ACADEMY

Sogetsu Kaikan was established more recently than most ikebana schools (it was only founded in 1927), and it embraces its own principle that favours creativity over established form. The school’s philosophy, ‘anytime, anywhere’, emphasises how Sogetsu arrangements are flexible in style so that they can be displayed in a broad range of environments and locations, whether the setting be modern or traditional, Western or Japanese. Rather than being provided with a predetermined set of flowers and vase, participants are free to select their own flowers and vessel to work with for the lesson.

Ohara School of Ikebana Manako Flower Academy

The Manako Flower Academy offers lessons in all kinds of floral arrangements: pressed flowers, gift bouquets, and of course, ikebana. The academy aims to cultivate a broad knowledge of the aesthetics of flowers and how to incorporate them in everyday life. You can sign up for a one-off trial lesson, but the academy also offers certification for Ikenobo, which is the oldest and largest school of ikebana. Up for something more experimental? Take a course on the latest trends of flower design where you will learn skills on leaf manipulation as well as how to pick out a vase for your arrangements. Æ Iko Dai 2 Bldg 3F, 4-7-12 Haramachida, Machida (Machida Station). 042 726 1187. manako-flower.com. Lessons from ¥5,000.

The school’s founder Unshin Ohara sought to develop a style that would express the beauty of natural landscapes and scenery. The trial lesson for beginners at this 125-year-old school includes two moribana arrangements with seasonal flowers, a style of ikebana that Ohara created, where flowers and branches are arranged upright in low and wide vessels. You’ll be provided with a few reference sheets to give you a visual idea, but the instructor will also talk you through the process. At the end, you can ask for your flowers to be wrapped to take home and buy materials at the school’s supply store to recreate the style at home.

Ikebana x Hyakudan Kaidan 2020

Hyakudan Kaidan, the 100step staircase of Hotel Gajoen, has a history dating back to the Showa era (1926-1989) and the traditional viewing rooms on its seven landings make an exquisite space for the annual ikebana exhibitions. The Japan Ikebana Arts Association, the largest alliance of ikebana schools in the world, has held this exhibition annually since 2013. Each flower arrangement showcases a different style and viewers can appreciate the varied aesthetics of the 25 participating schools. The displays, which will change every week, feature blossoms and foliage from late spring and early summer to reflect the transition of the seasons. Æ May 26-Jun 21. 1-8-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). hotelgajoen-tokyo.com. 10am-5pm daily (last entry 4.30pm), closed Mon. Adults ¥1,600, university and high school students ¥1,000, ¥600 for junior high school and elementary school students.

Æ 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato (Omotesando Station). 03 3499 1200. ohararyu.or.jp/english/index.html. ¥4,000 for trial lesson.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Art & Culture

Shows to see this spring

©RK

By Darren Gore

RK: NEOrient

Æ Diesel Art Gallery, until May 21. Cocoti B1F, 1-23-16 Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 5955. 11.30am-9pm daily. FREE.

Olafur Eliasson: Sometimes the River is the Bridge Olafur Eliasson does epic like few others. The Danish-Icelandic artist’s first Tokyo show in ten Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

years will see breathtaking installation pieces from throughout his career fill the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo’s vast halls. Eliasson’s grandiose works demonstrate both his masterful manipulation of light and geometry, and deft incorporation of phenomena from the natural world. ‘Beauty’ (1993), in which a rainbow emerges in a darkened space, is just one such highlight. When Eliasson, a passionate environmentalist, captures the monumental power of nature, it’s for a specific reason: to make it explicitly clear that THIS – this glorious, miraculous planet with its winds, rains and rocks – is precisely what we’re systematically destroying by letting it melt, crack and fall apart. This is epic environmentalism and, yes, it’s sublime.

OLAFUR ELIASSON, THE EXPLORATION OF THE CENTRE OF THE SUN, 2017. INSTALLATION VIEW: PKM GALLERY, SEOUL, 2017 PHOTO: JEON BYUNG CHEOL, 2017. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND PKM GALLERY, SEOUL © 2017 OLAFUR ELIASSON

Japanese photographer RK has risen to Instagram fame over the past few years, gaining over 400,000 followers with colourful, detail-packed images that convey the sense of daily life in Asia’s ultra-high-density cities. He also excels at revealing the unintentional symmetries and other patterns that appear in the cluttered architecture of cities such as Tokyo and Hong Kong. Here RK departs from the claustrophobia of his best-known work to present a ‘vision of crimson fantasy’. Solitary female figures, traditionally clad in the vibrant red hue that signifies good fortune in many Asian cultures, appear amid muted cityscapes and natural surroundings. The resulting impression is that these are goddesses who have manifested themselves on earth, unnoticed by all.

Æ Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, until Jun 14. 4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto. 03 5405 8686. 10am-6pm, closed Mon (except May 4) & May 7.

Art & Culture

Æ Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Apr 11-Jun 21. 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5777 8600. 11am-7pm (last entry 6.30pm), Fri & Sat 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4).

Kitawaki Noboru: To See the Universe in a Seed

The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, draws upon its extensive collection to offer a different perspective on the work of avant-garde painter Kitawaki Noboru (1901-1951). Active in Kyoto during the ’30s and ’40s, Kitawaki has until now been assessed in terms of the influence he derived from the Surrealists. While this aspect is present – the maple seeds in 1937 work ‘Airport’ can alternatively be viewed as aeroplanes – this exhibition argues that the artist’s deeper aim was to decode the invisible laws of the world around us, and present a unification of heaven and earth as if condensed into a single seed.

New Acquisitions: The Paul Klee Collection

Æ The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, until Jun 14. 3-1 Kitanomaru Koen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 8600. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Fri & Sat 10am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4) & May 7.

No other artist of the 20th century made marks, lines and doodles sing with quite the same melody as Paul Klee (1879-1940). As a result, you’ll spend ages peering at and poring over the witty, joyful masterpieces in this careerspanning, 25-work retrospective of the Swiss-German artist, watching Klee’s ideas spring to life on canvas. Drawing influences from Surrealism, Cubism and Expressionism, Klee experimented tirelessly with colour theory, materials and technique. He was originally associated with the expressionist group Der Blaue Reiter and later taught at Germany’s legendary Bauhaus school before his work was deemed ‘degenerate’ by the Nazis.

Art & Power: From Pharaohs to Daimyos. Masterworks from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

ÆArtizon Museum, Apr 18-Jun 21. 1-7-2 Kyobashi, Chuo. 03 5777 8600. 10am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), Fri (except hols) 10am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4).

Through some 60 Japanese and international artworks, Art & Power explores how rulers and powerful figures down the ages have used art to demonstrate and maintain their dominance. Opulent residences and imposing seats of power would be filled with works by eminent painters and craftsmen, with their occupants often also commissioning ego-satisfying portraits. Pieces from the collections would play a part in diplomatic affairs, and together come to form the foundations of some of today’s world-class museums. Consisting entirely of works from the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, including masterpieces from

YOSHITOMO NARA, 'VOYAGE OF THE MOON (RESTING MOON) / VOYAGE OF THE MOON', 2006. MIXED MEDIA, 476X354X495CM. COOPERATION PROVIDED BY GRAF. COLLECTION: 21ST CENTURY MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, KANAZAWA. PHOTO: NAKAMICHI ATSUSHI / NACÁSA & PARTNERS

Æ Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Apr 16-Jul 5. 8-36 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 3823 6921. 9.30am5.30pm (last entry 5pm), Fri 9.30am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4 & Jun 29).

explores how each of the six have, in very different ways, pursued universal values that transcend nationality and culture while working in a social, cultural and economic milieu that has often been considered unique. Æ Mori Art Museum, Apr 23-Sept 6. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. 10am-10pm (last entry 9.30pm), Tue 10am-5pm (4.30pm), until 10pm on May 5.

Time Flows: Reflections by 5 Artists

Set inside a distinguished European-style building dating back to the 1930s, the Hara Museum is one of Tokyo’s most

Stars: Six Contemporary Artists from Japan to the World

appealing art venues – and it is featured in a number of works across this group show. Works by photographers Tomoki Imai, Tamotsu Kido and Tokihiro Sato; multi-media artist Lee Kit; and the late animator Masaharu Sato capture the flux and flow of the world, offering hints as to how we might pick up on things overlooked in our increasingly hectic, information-saturated times. Æ Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, Apr 25-Jun 7. 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa, Shinagawa. 03 3445 0651. 11am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Wed (except Apr 26 & May 6) 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except May 4) & May 7.

Stars brings together six celebrated figures from the Japanese modern art scene, each of whom rose to prominence as the country became Asia’s first postwar economic powerhouse, and transcended Japan’s cultural borders to capture imaginations worldwide. The careers of Yayoi Kusama, Tatsuo Miyajima, Takashi Murakami, Yoshitomo Nara, Hiroshi Sugimoto and South Korean-born Lee Ufan, a resident of Japan for over six decades, are traced from their earliest works through to new pieces specially commissioned for this show. Stars

Following an acclaimed run in Kyoto, this large-scale exhibition arrives in Tokyo to explore the world of dress. Over 300 exhibits come principally from the Kyoto Costume Institute, as well as from the worlds of art, theatre, cinema and manga, and range from ornate 18th-century French gowns to the avant-garde design of Comme des Garçons (pictured left) and the irreverent 21stcentury streetwear of Vetements.

Japan’s Kano school and ancient Egyptian artefacts, the show examines both the original function of these pieces, and the broader historical relationship between art and authority.

PAUL KLEE 'FLOWER IN THE VALLEY' (1938). WATERCOLOUR ON COTTON FABRIC (PASTED ON WOOD).

Dress Code: Are You Playing Fashion?

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Music Sounds from the underground These alternative music venues specialise in experimental live music from noise to ambient. By the Time Out Tokyo team

and classic cocktail dens, Tokyo pulses to the beat of experimental music. From noise and electronica to free jazz and ambient, the city’s underground music hotspots host gigs that will impress even the most jaded music aficionado. Immerse yourself in Tokyo’s vibrant experimental music scene and you’ll find a supportive community of fans and musicians. Here are some of our favourite spots to get you started.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

MANABU MOROOKA

BEYOND ITS GLITZY clubs

MUSIC AND COFFEE HIKARI NO UMA

ART SPACE BAR BUENA

Originally a Japanese-style dive bar, this cosy establishment in Okubo really lets you get involved in the music – after all, wherever you are in this tiny sonic temple, you are right in front of the stage. The retro seats and bar counter add a touch of old-school charm. Celebrating its fifth anniversary in 2020, this unique venue is starting to draw the attention of underground music lovers all over the world, attracting performers in a wide range of genres including rock, jazz and electronic.

With an eclectic range of art hanging on its walls, both in terms of subject and medium, this bar on the second floor of a building right next to Okubo Station is a visual treat as well as a musical one. The small space has the kind of cosy, welcoming vibe that makes you feel like a regular the moment you walk through the door. Gigs happen on an irregular basis, so keep an eye on the bar’s website for details. The space has played host to musicians including Chihei Hatakeyama and Hakobune, and bar owner Haruhisa Tanaka regularly takes to the stage to share his drone and ambient music.

Æ B1F, 1-23-17 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku (Shin-Okubo Station). hikarinouma.blogspot.com.

Æ Shinjuku Town Plaza Bldg 2F-D, 1-24-8 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku (Okubo Station). bar-buena.com.

SOUP

Head past the self-service laundry and down a narrow Shinjuku stairway and you’ll find one of the nerve centres of Tokyo’s experimental music scene. Nearly 15 years after it opened, Soup hasn’t lost its DIY spirit, and you’ll often see performers working behind the bar after finishing their sets (tip: the shochu selection is typically excellent). It hosts the odd indiepop or hardcore punk show, but the musical diet tends towards noise, free improvisation, ambient and experimental techno. The venue’s punchy, well-tuned sound system is best appreciated when in-house sound engineer Nobuki Nishiyama performs – and literally plays the room.

JAMES HADFIELD

DAIKI SUZUKI

Æ B1F, 3-9-10 Kami-Ochiai, Shinjuku (Ochiai Station). ochiaisoup.com.

BAR ISSHEE

This legendary underground music venue closed down in Shibuya in 2012 only to reappear in Sendagi, where it’s been building a loyal following since 2014. Bar Isshee is a space for unique performances and magical nights – the venue regularly hosts collaborations between local and international musicians from an eclectic range of genres. The bar has regular performers, but Isshee also welcomes guest artists from the underground, bringing improvised, noise and ambient music to an eager audience every day. Entry is free, but Bar Isshee fills up fast, so it’s worth reserving a spot in advance. The bands are paid in tips from the audience, so bring some cash. Æ Sendagi Century 21 B1F, 3-36-11 Sendagi, Bunkyo (Sendagi Station). bloc.jp/barisshee.

ISAO NEGISHI

POOL SAKURADAI

In a nondescript building tucked away on a sleepy residential street in Nerima, Pool Sakuradai is the last place you would think to go looking for underground music. But once the doors open, visitors walk down a brutalist concrete passage leading to an open basement space with an impressively high ceiling to be treated to some of the most exciting sounds in the city. Check out the handmade robots placed randomly throughout the venue – they’re props for shows by machine performance group Kairai-bunch, who puts on irregular weekend shows that make Transformers look tame. Hosting performances by rock and avant-garde artists, hackathons and other interactive events, Pool Sakuradai is part nightclub, part music venue, and part collective art space. Be sure to check the website for details on what experimental weirdness is happening next. Æ B2F, 1-7-7 Sakuradai, Nerima (Sakuradai Station). mdel.co.jp/pool.

Æ The opening hours of these venues are dependent on performance schedules. Check their websites or social media pages for upcoming shows. 61

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Nightlife Mexican wave FIRST, A LITTLE BACKGROUND. Tequila is to mezcal what Scotch is to whisky: just one type of tipple that’s part of a much bigger category. But if you’re not into tequila shots with lime and salt, don’t worry. Other breeds of mezcal are generally much richer and smokier than tequila, and they’re made to be sipped, not knocked back in one go. If your mezcal needs a wedge of citrus to wash it down, it might be time to upgrade your drink. That distinctive smokiness is down to mezcal’s traditional production process and wide variety of ingredients. While tequila is made exclusively from the blue agave plant, mezcal in general makes use of all varieties of agave, giving it a wider range of flavours. And unlike tequila producers, who typically cook the agave in industrial ovens, most mezcal makers still cook the plant on wood fire in an outdoor pit, meaning smoky, earthy flavours are part of the process. Unfortunately, the wider world of mezcal remains largely unknown in Japan, even though tequila has become a bar staple. Still, Tokyo has some hidden mezcal hotspots of its own – you just need to know where to look.

FERRI’S

The perfect place to kick off your mezcal education, Ferri’s boasts 300 types of mezcal and tequila imported from Mexico, along with plenty of craft gin and whisky. The bar’s owner, Ferri Kadem, is an officially qualified mezcalero (mezcal connoisseur), so there’s no one better to guide you through its many mysteries. If it’s your first encounter with the drink, ask for Los Danzantes Reposado: it strikes a good balance between earthy caramel and smoky flavours. While you’re sipping spirits, be sure to order a plate of Ferri’s nachos – they’re the perfect match for your mezcal, as is the bar’s intimate interior with its stark red walls. Add to the experience Ferri’s flowing English conversation and this is the kind of place you can easily spend too much time in. Æ 4-11-11 Nishiazabu, Minato (Hiroo, Nogizaka stations). 03 6427 1221. fb.com/ferrisbar. 7pm-4am, Sun 7pm-12midnight.

AGAVE

True to its image as a luxury bar, Agave in Roppongi does not rush its customers through its drinks. With 550 kinds of mezcal and tequila in stock, ranging in price from a more affordable ¥800 per shot to a premium ¥9,400, the bar gives plenty of time for people to pick out their drinks and sip them at their own pace. In a city that thinks tequila means doing shots, the real luxury of a visit to Agave isn’t so much the extensive drink selection, it’s the atmosphere, encouraging you to take the time you need to properly savour the mezcal in your glass. Æ DM Bldg B1F, 7-18-11 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 3497 0229. tinyurl.com/TOTagave. 6.30pm-2am (last orders 1.30am), Fri & Sat 6.30pm-4am (3.30am), closed Sun & hols on Mon.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY TETSU FROM BAR SPICULE

In just a few short years, mezcal has gone from local Mexican moonshine to international obsession. Here are the best places in Tokyo to get a taste of the smoky Mexican spirit. By the Time Out Tokyo team

YUKI NAKAMURA

With a certified nutritionist as the owner, Azabujuban’s El Fujiyama offers a brandnew take on mezcal. The mezcal and tequila speciality bar tries to give its wide selection a more Japanese touch by offering customers the option of mixing it with local favourites, like shiso and soybean flour, or presenting it in a wooden vessel usually used for sake. The bar food, which must be ordered in advance, not only complements the mezcal but includes lighter options like pumpkin salad and duck tacos.

BAR SPICULE

Established in 1995 as a cocktail and whisky bar, Bar Spicule pivoted to mezcal after owner Tetsu fell for the spirit in 2017. Sangrita, a spicy tomato drink traditionally used as a chaser for tequila shots, is reborn in Bar Spicule as a mixer for beer and mezcal. The Latin American ambiance and the innovative drinks here make for an unforgettable evening. Æ Flora Bldg B1F, 1-5-2 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-juban Station). 03 3746 0158. spicule.com. 6pm-3am, closed Sun.

BAR JIMADOR

Named after the jimador, or workers who harvest the agave used for distilling, this hidden bar on the second floor of a building five minutes’ walk from Yushima Station is a dash of Mexico in the middle of Tokyo. The dark, cosy interior is flanked by bright red walls, and the bar itself is lined with carved wooden chairs. Rare tequila bottles and Mexican figurines complete the picture. Customers can puff on Cuban cigars and sip mezcal from jicaras, traditional mezcal cups made from the fruit of the calabash tree. The Mezcarita, a mezcal-based margarita with salt and chilli powder adorning the glass rim, is not to be missed. Æ Takahashi Bldg 2F, 3-44-1 Yushima, Bunkyo (Ueno-Hirokoji, Yushima stations). 03 5818 0037. twitter.com/ bar_jimador. 7pm-5am, closed Sun (open if Mon is a hol).

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Æ Anniversary Bldg 2F, 1-6-4 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-juban Station). 03 6804 5106. elfujiyama.com. 7pm-12midnight, Fri & Sat 7pm-1am, closed Sun.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA

KISA TOYOSHIMA

EL FUJIYAMA

MANCHIN SHUTEN BY MANGOSTEEN

Mangosteen, the catering company that handles major festivals like Fuji Rock, is branching out into drinks. Under its own Amores brand, the firm distils its own mezcal using 100 percent organic agave. With more than 20 kinds of mezcal available, Manchin Shuten whips up not only good drinks, but also plenty of atmosphere as DJs spinning music from around the world are a weekend fixture. Æ 4-29-14 Daizawa, Setagaya (Shimokitazawa, Ikenoue stations). 03 6413 8819. mangosteen.vc/shop. 3pm-11pm, closed Mon. April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

LGBT Life’s a drag

Durian Lollobrigida

Durian owes her last name to her favourite Italian actress, Gina Lollobrigida, and her first name to, you guessed it, the king of fruits. ‘It’s stinky but tasty,’ she quips. This veteran performer has been dressing in drag since 2006, but that doesn’t mean she’s planning to slow down anytime soon. Durian attributes her uniqueness to her endless hunger for life. ‘I want to do it all!’ she says. ‘I want to sing and dance and lip sync, be a fashion model and fall in love, too.’

Our favourite Tokyo drag queens and where to meet them. By Emma Steen

Æ Follow her on Instagram @masaki_durian

WHILE THE TOKYO drag queen scene can be difficult to tap into if you don’t have someone to show you the ropes, once you’re introduced to the top queens and clued in to where they perform, the city is your oyster. Watch these professional lip syncers put your weekday shower routines to shame as they slay the stages of Shinjuku. Contrary to popular belief, drag queen shows are not exclusive to the LGBT community – anyone is welcome to be starstruck by the stage presence of these multi-talented queens and their alter-egos.

Vera Strondh

Small but mighty, sultry Vera is the life of every party. With her Ariana Grandesque up-do, she loves representing her roots by incorporating some Latina flair into her outfits and performances such as a flower in her hair or a scarlett red salsa dress. Vera started to do drag after receiving encouragement from her co-workers at famed gay bar Eagle Tokyo in Shinjuku Ni-chome and credits her drag persona with helping her become stronger and more resilient as she learned to embrace herself wholeheartedly. Her favourite music genres are jazz and hip hop, but as a dancer of 11 years, this fierce showgirl can choreograph jaw-dropping performances to pretty much anything. A true dynamite. Æ Follow her on Instagram @verastrondh

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Where to meet the queens of Tokyo

Shigata Ichikuchi

AKANE KIYOHARA

It’s hard not to be a little intimidated by Shigata Ichikuchi’s nine-inch heels, but this diva is a warm and impossibly charismatic host and performer. Shinichi co-founded Haus of Gaishoku along with Goma Dango and moved to Tokyo from Osaka to help expand the collective. Shigata previously lived in Paris where she actively participated in large-scale pride events and is eager to bring international LGBT communities together. Whether she’s dressed head to toe in dominatrix leather or a lavish kimono, her acts are often accompanied by her entourage of admirers who wear matching outfits and wave fans with Shinichi’s face on them as she takes to the stage.

Beauty Blenda

Beauty Blenda is a fully bilingual event run by Haus of Gaishoku (Instagram @hausofgaishoku) combining drag performances with acts featuring contortionists, comedians and even koto (traditional Japanese string instrument) players. The show takes place every month at Shinjuku’s Gyoen Rosso 198 and the ¥3,000 entry fee includes a couple of Yaas Yen tokens to tip your favourite performers after their numbers. The event is interactive, so don’t be shy and get ready to cheer, dance and sing along.

Æ Follow her on Instagram @shininjpn

TARO IREI

ÆGyoen Rosso 198 B1F, 2-12-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). fb.com/hausofgaishoku. Entry ¥3,000. See Haus of Gaishoku’s social media for upcoming events.

Queen’s Lounge

MARK WEICH

Goma Dango

Named after her favourite dessert (sweet sesame dumpling), Goma Dango is a Jackie of all trades. This curlrocking MC is rarely seen in less than three outfits in a night, each paired with her custom statement necklaces. Goma started performing on stage with the bilingual improv group Pirates of Tokyo Bay (Instagram @ piratestokyo). She later co-founded the queer collective Haus of Gaishoku as a way to combine her comedy skills with her drag queen act and provide performance opportunities for new talents. She’s a little ditzy, delightfully funny and we can’t help but adore her.

There are drag nights from Monday to Thursday every week at Shinjuku Ni-chome’s Aisotope Lounge. The Queen’s Lounge events are a mix of performances, cocktails and casual chit-chat for when you fancy hanging out with bar hosts who are a step above the rest. The first drink is ¥1,800 and it includes a cover charge and bar snacks. Feel like you can provide some entertainment of your own? Why not have a go on one of the karaoke machines at the bar and see if you can impress your company with your singing chops. ÆMon-Thur from 9pm. Aisotope Lounge, 2-12-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). aliving.net. First drink ¥1,800, regular prices from second drink onwards.

Dragmania Night at Eagle Tokyo

Why catch up on RuPaul’s Drag Race alone when you can see the latest episode in the company of Tokyo’s very own drag queens? In addition to screening the latest episodes of the show, Westernstyle bar Eagle Tokyo also throws on special cocktails, DJs, lip sync battles and other performances to entertain you throughout the night. This is one party RuPaul fanatics won’t want to miss. ÆEagle Tokyo, 2-12-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). Check fb.com/ dragmaniajp for upcoming events. A special edition of Dragmania on Apr 5 will feature Brooke Lynn Hytes from season 11 of RuPaul’s Drag Race (dragmaniajp.zaiko.io).

Æ Follow her on Instagram @gomadangohno

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Film Movie dinners

Forget popcorn and slushies – these Tokyo cinemas serve up gourmet meals to go with your movie. By Mari Hiratsuka

POLE POLE HIGASHI NAKANO

Just a short walk from Higashi-Nakano Station, this little cinema screens cult films and socially conscious documentaries. The theatre café is a popular local hangout with a small art gallery in the back, so you can check out the creations on the walls with a chai tea or cocktail in hand. If you’re feeling peckish, we recommend the café’s Indian speciality: keema curry.

IN A CITY AS FOOD-OBSESSED as Tokyo, it’s no surprise that some cinemas take food as seriously as film. These movie theatres go far beyond the typical junk food, offering restaurant-quality meals to savour. For your next movie night, head to one of these cinemas, skip the popcorn and sit down for a leisurely meal either side of the show.

Æ Pole Pole Za Bldg 1F, 4-4-1 Higashi-Nakano, Nakano (Higashi-Nakano Station). 03 3227 1445. 9.30am-8.30pm (last orders 8pm), closed Tue.

UPLINK SHIBUYA

This mini cinema in Shibuya shows lots of indie and arthouse flicks, along with documentaries and experimental films. The venue is run by Uplink, known for distributing avant-garde films by famed directors such as Alejandro Jodorowsky and Xavier Dolan. On the first floor, you’ll find Tabela, a café and restaurant serving Middle Eastern and North African food. On weekdays during happy hour (3pm-5pm), you can grab a beer or a glass of wine for just ¥250. Æ Totsune Bldg 1F, 37-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6825 5501. uplink.co.jp/ tabela. Hours vary by day.

KINOHAUS

A collection of independent cinemas in one building, Kinohaus has something for everyone, from the arthouse Eurospace to the more classically-minded Cinema Vera. But what keeps us coming back is the first-floor café and live music venue Cafe9, serving up an eclectic menu featuring fish and chips, Hawaiian loco moco, beef curry, cakes and more. Æ Kinohaus 1F, Maruyamacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5784 1239. 12noon-5.30pm daily (only terrace seats and take-outs when there’s an event).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

RIGHT HERE, RIGHT NOW Want to go out and about in Tokyo? Whether it’s a comedy show, a live gig or even a music festival, you can now book your tickets through us.

timeout.com/tokyo/book-tokyo-tickets

Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Center

now get You can f Time yo your cop agazine om y k To t u O en ship d – we ev y! re e v li e d onall internati t-tokyo. u -o e m Visit ti y.com. if p o h s y m

Pick up our magazine and maps here: Stations: Select Toei Subway stations, including Shinjuku and Roppongi Tourist information centres: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Headquarters Shibuya-san Tourist Information & Art Center Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Tokyo City Air Terminal Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk Tokyo City i ... and more tourist information centres Airports: Haneda Airport (International Terminal) Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya ... and more shops

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Restaurants: Time Out Café & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) All British Pub Hub locations in Tokyo ... and more restaurants

TIME OUT READERS will know about our popular series of free maps: pocket-sized guides to the multifarious delights this city has to offer. They’re hard to miss these days – as well as our ever-popular ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ and the comprehensive ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve come up with maps for nearly all the top areas including Shinjuku, Asakusa, Ikebukuro, Ginza, Arakawa and Tokyo Station.

All of these publications, along with issues of our free quarterly magazine, are available to pick up at Shibuya Station’s Tourist Information Center, conveniently located in the underground passage on the second basement floor of the station. The Englishspeaking guides will help you stock up, provide sightseeing tips and assist you in navigating the bowels of the cavernous station itself.

Each edition squeezes the best of the capital into a compact guide, complete with a city map, and we’ve included everything from offbeat art galleries and otaku meccas to ancient shrines and hipster hangouts. We’ve also expanded the series to include places beyond Tokyo, launching special maps for those of you heading to Osaka or Yokohama – both make for a great mini getaway from the capital.

Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: ANA InterContinental Tokyo The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo Park Hyatt Tokyo Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel Grand Hyatt Tokyo Conrad Tokyo Hotel Okura Tokyo The Prince Park Tower Tokyo Royal Park Hotel Tokyo ... and more hotels Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run out of stock. Please be patient while we work on the next print run. Please direct any advertising queries to sales@timeout.jp. April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Islands in the sun

Travel & Hotels

Looking for an easy day trip from Tokyo? Try these islands off the Kanagawa coast just south of the capital. By Kaila Imada

THE STUNNING KANAGAWA COASTLINE is often overshadowed by the popular tourist destinations nearby such as Kamakura and Yokohama, but the Miura Peninsula, located just south of Yokohama, has plenty of great spots which are worth a visit. In particular, the four islands of Enoshima, Hakkeijima, Sarushima and Jogashima are easily accessible from Tokyo and offer numerous seaside activities, outdoor excursions and plenty of fresh seafood. Direct trains run from Yokohama Station to the Kanagawa coast, and from there it’s an easy walk across a bridge or a short ferry ride to the islands. Some of the tourist destinations can be paired up into one convenient trip, but we recommend saving islands like Enoshima and Jogashima for individual day trips, as they take a bit longer to get to.

ENOSHIMA

The island of Enoshima lies off the Shonan coast on the western side of Kanagawa, and is connected to the mainland by a bridge (open to cars and pedestrians). Home to a wealth of cultural monuments, cute cafés and sightseeing activities, Enoshima is one of the best-known spots in Kanagawa. When the weather’s clear, you can even see Mt Fuji from the island. Confusingly the island’s must-see Enoshima Shrine is actually three different shrines spread out across the island. The main one is located on the route to the picturesque Enoshima Sea Candle observation tower. While making your way around the island, stop off at the Iwaya Caves inside the cliffs on the southern coast. Visitors can walk through the caverns, but don’t forget to turn around and enjoy the gorgeous view out over the ocean.

Enoshima Sea Candle Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

How to get there: The most convenient access is through Enoshima Station, which is just under 40 minutes from Yokohama Station via the Tokaido Main and Enoden lines. If you’re coming from Tokyo Station, the train trip will take about an hour and 10 minutes. From Enoshima Station, it’s just a 20-minute walk to the island.

MOKE'S HAWAII

Travel & Hotels

Enoshima Sea Candle

Don’t leave Enoshima without taking in the jawdropping scenery from this lighthouse observation tower. A ¥500 (¥250 for children) entry gets you up to the viewing deck, but for ¥800 (¥400) you can purchase an Enoshima Sea Candle Ticket, which also gives you access to the Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden as well as the escalator connecting the ground level to the base of the lighthouse on the hill. From the top of the Sea Candle, enjoy a great view of Mt Fuji to the west, Miura Peninsula to the east and Oshima Island just south. Æ 2-3-28 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima stations). 0466 23 2444. enoshima-seacandle.com. 9am-8pm daily.

Moke’s Hawaii

Get into the island mood at Moke’s, an Instagrammable café complete with fluffy pancakes and cute décor. Diners can expect menu offerings such as Moke’s signature lilikoi pancakes, which come topped with a tangy passion fruit sauce, and the equally delicious macadamia nut pancakes. The café also features Enoshima-exclusive dishes using shirasu, or whitebait – a speciality of the area.

Enospa

For a bit of relaxation, nothing beats some onsen (hot spring bath) time at Enospa. The wellness complex is located right on the island’s coast and features natural hot springs plus ten different heated pools where you can even wear your swimsuit. Although the hot spring baths are separated by gender, the pools are open to all. Highlights include the stunning outdoor infinity pool looking out over the ocean as well as a cave pool with a perfect view of Mt Fuji. Don’t forget to try out the sauna and the carbonated hot spring bath – it’s supposed to relieve tiredness and boost your metabolism.

Æ 1-6-8 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima stations). 0466 47 7794. mokeskailua-japan.com. 10am-6pm (closed Wed during Nov-Feb).

Æ 2-1-6 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa prefecture (Enoshima, Katase-Enoshima, Shonan-Enoshima stations). 0466 29 0688. enoshimaislandspa.com. Regular season (Mar-Nov) 10am-10pm (full day spa), 6pm-10pm (night spa), summer (Jul-Aug) 6pm-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm, winter (Dec-Feb) 6pm-9pm, Sat & Sun 11am-9pm. Pool last entry, one hour before closing.

Yokohama Hakkeijima Seaside Paradise

HAKKEIJIMA

A small island just south of Yokohama, Hakkeijima is home to a marine-focussed amusement park boasting an adrenaline-pumping rollercoaster, an aquarium and much more besides. There’s even a hotel on the island, so you can turn your day trip into a leisurely weekend by the sea. How to get there: Hakkeijima Station is approximately 40 minutes by train from Yokohama Station, and just under an hour and 20 minutes from Shinagawa Station in central Tokyo. From Hakkeijima Station, an easy 10-minute walk across the nearby bridge will bring you to the island.

This amusement park is an ideal spot for kids – even the kind that have a career and a mortgage. There are two main areas – Pleasure Land and Aqua Resorts – and no entrance fee, so you can pay as you go for each attraction or pick up an all-inclusive ticket. The Aqua Museum aquarium – in the Aqua Resorts area, of course – is worth a visit in itself for the 120,000 sea creatures living there, comprised of 700 different species ranging from dolphins and sharks to penguins and polar bears. At the Umi Farm, visitors can try their hand at fishing before cooking up their catch right on the spot. Pleasure Island is a more typical amusement park: take in the view from the Sea Paradise Tower, or enjoy the scenery at top speed from the roller coaster swooping over the water. And speaking of water, you can even cruise on a pirate ship through the high seas – there’s plenty to keep you busy during your visit. Don’t miss the colourful seaside garden at Hakkeijima, where you’ll find cherry blossoms in April and approximately 20,000 hydrangeas come June. Æ Yokohama Hakkeijima Seaside Paradise, Hakkeijima, Kanazawa, Yokohama, Kanagawa prefecture (Hakkeijima Station). 045 788 8888. seaparadise.co.jp. Hours vary by facility.

April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels

SARUSHIMA

KURO/PIXTA

The island of Sarushima, just off the coast of Yokosuka, is a popular getaway spot during the warmer months, boasting gorgeous beaches and a number of summer events. You can visit during winter, too, but ferry times are limited to weekends and holidays. This little bayside paradise – the only natural island in Tokyo Bay – is best explored on foot and features ruins of a former fortress, a picturesque observation point, as well as barbecue spots for a grilling session near the beach. How to get there: Sarushima is best accessed by ferry. The trip takes about 10 minutes; the ferry runs daily from March 1 to November 30, but it’s only weekends and holidays from December 1 to February 28. The closest station is Yokosuka-Chuo Station, about a 15-minute walk from the dock. Yokosuka-Chuo Station is less than 30 minutes by train from Yokohama Station and about 45 minutes from Shinagawa Station.

Beachside activities

After a full day of sunbathing and swimming, it’s time for a barbecue feast. Sarushima has public beachside grills and equipment available for rent – all you need to do is bring the food. If partying your day away on a beach sounds more your style, be sure to visit Sarushima during one of the island’s festivals. Annual music fests like Good Music Party in summer and the Yokosuka Art & Music Festival in autumn turn the island into a musical oasis.

Ruins

Sarushima was a defence station for the Port of Yokosuka from the Edo period (1603–1868) right up until World War II. You’ll still see traces of the old fortifications, including the island’s red brick barracks and long defence tunnels, all of which are gradually being overgrown by the island’s flourishing plants.

JOGASHIMA

Located just off the southern tip of the Miura Peninsula, Jogashima is a small island boasting stunning nature, great seafood and views of Mt Fuji. Small restaurants and shops are dotted across the sleepy island, as well as two lighthouses, a lookout point, hotels and guesthouses. The town of Misaki, your mainland gateway to the island, is famous for its abundant tuna. Misaki is also home to a couple of fresh fish markets, making it a great spot to sample local sashimi. How to get there: A 50-minute train ride from Yokohama Station will get you to Misakiguchi Station. From there, the Keikyu bus will take you to Jogashima in about 30 minutes. If you’re coming from Shinagawa Station, the train trip to Misakiguchi Station takes roughly an hour and 10 minutes.

Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket

This quaint seafood restaurant is attached to the Jogashima Keikyu Hotel. We recommend the excellent lunch sets, so you can try out the area’s specialities including maguro (tuna) donburi and shirasu (white bait) donburi rice bowls. But it’s not just about the food – the restaurant is situated on the west coast, boasting the best lookout to Mt Fuji in clear weather. The Jogashima Lighthouse behind the restaurant is also worth a visit for its panoramic views. Æ 693 Jogashima, Misakimachi, Miura, Kanagawa prefecture (Misakiguchi Station). 046 881 5151. 10am-3.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4.30pm. Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

Urari Market

This seafood market in Misaki specialises in tuna, but you’ll also find snacks to eat right on the spot. Look out for the swordfish gyoza, steamed tuna buns, and a variety of puddings. For more options, head up to the second floor for fresh produce, including locally grown fruit and vegetables, plus a bakery and a juice bar. There’s also an outdoor deck with tables, chairs and views of the harbour. Æ 5-3-1 Misaki, Miura, Kanagawa prefecture (Misakiguchi Station). 046 881 6721. umigyo.co.jp. Seafood market 9am-5pm, Sun 7am-5pm; vegetable market 10am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hols 9am-5pm.

ÆFrom ¥3,480. Passes can be purchased at Keikyu Line stations (excluding Sengakuji and Misakiguchi stations). For more information visit haneda-tokyo-access.com/en/ticket/ discount/maguro-day.html.

KISA TOYOSHIMA

Isokaze

Make the most of the Kanagawa coast by purchasing the Misaki Maguro Day Trip Ticket. The oneday pass gives you a round-trip ride on the Keikyu Line (from Yokohama Station or Tokyo’s Shinagawa Station) as well as unlimited Keikyu bus rides for the day. Best of all, you get a meal ticket for fresh seafood at one of the 32 participating maguro (tuna) restaurants in Misaki and Jogashima island.

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JAPANESE GARDEN

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VIEW & DINING THE SKY

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EXECUTIVE HOUSE ZEN

TEA CEREMONY EXPERIENCE

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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Getting Around

NARITA AIRPORT

The main international airport, Narita is roughly 70km away from central Tokyo. The fastest way to reach the city is either the Narita Express (53 minutes to Tokyo Station, generally runs every 30 minutes, ¥4,070 round trip) or the Keisei Skyliner (41 minutes to Ueno Station, up to three times an hour, ¥2,520). The cheaper option, which takes around 90 minutes, is the Airport Bus TYO-NRT to Tokyo Station (every 10 minutes at peak times, ¥1,000, or ¥2,000 for late night and early morning, pay on board or reserve online). Otherwise, take the Narita Access Express train to Nihonbashi (slightly over an hour, ¥1,350). You should avoid taking a taxi,

Your Tokyo starter pack

All you need to know for an easy, enjoyable holiday in the metropolis. By the Time Out Tokyo team

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

The airport most Tokyoites love for its sheer convenience, Haneda is actually the bigger and busier airport, but sees a lot of domestic traffic. Getting into town is easiest by Tokyo Monorail (to Hamamatsucho Station, about 13 minutes, ¥500) or the Keikyu line (to Shinagawa Station, about 13 minutes, ¥300). The Keikyu bus goes to many central destinations; it takes about an hour from the international terminal to Shibuya (¥1,050 one way, ¥1,600 round trip). A taxi is also semieconomical from Haneda, with fares to central Tokyo being around ¥7,000 (pre-book for a flat fee).

Public wi-fi used to be sparse, but nowadays it’s easy to find. Reception can be a bit patchy though, so your best bet for staying online at all times is to buy a data SIM card or rent a pocket wi-fi. Get yours at the airport (either at a vending machine or a wi-fi counter), or at larger Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera stores.

that can also be used to buy things at convenience stores, vending machines and much more. Day passes for Tokyo Metro, Toei subways, Toei buses and JR trains are available too and cost ¥500 to ¥1,600 depending on the range of services. If you plan to move around in one day, this may be the cheaper option. Taxis are reasonably affordable for short distances or if you’re with a small group of up to four people. It’s ¥410 for the first 1.052km and then rolls at a rate of ¥80 for every 233m. A 20 percent night surcharge is usually added between 10pm and 5am.

Cash is still king in Tokyo, although more and more places have started accepting cards in recent years. Don’t expect your local ramen joint to be one of them, though. For foreign cards, the 7-Eleven and JP Post (post office) ATMs are the most reliable. Some FamilyMarts now have JP Post ATMs installed – look out for a green machine. For foreign currency, seek out the exchange booths and machines around major JR train stations (often offering better rates than at the airport). Or, get it done at major department stores such as Mitsukoshi, Isetan and Takashimaya.

SAFETY Tokyo, and Japan in general, is pretty darn safe. But on the off-chance that you find yourself the victim of a crime – or have simply lost something – head to the nearest koban (‘police box’), usually found at the corner of bigger intersections. They’ll be able to help you out. The emergency services number is 119.

day, plus tax-free consumables should not be opened while in Japan and need to be taken out of the country within 30 days of purchase, or within six months for non-consumables. Also, you have to bring your actual passport, ie no photocopy and no scanned copy on your phone.

In case of a severe earthquake or other natural disasters such as typhoon, check the Japan Meteorological Agency’s website for updates in English: www.jma.go.jp. To know what to do in such a situation or how to prepare, check out the multilingual Disaster Prevention Portal, www.mlit. go.jp/river/bousai/olympic.

Note: prices are correct at time of print, but may change without prior notice. Check the respective websites for the latest information.

MONEY

TAX-FREE SHOPPING For non-Japanese tourists staying in Japan for less than six months, it’s possible to avoid the 10 percent consumption tax while shopping – just look out for the ‘Japan Tax-free Shop’ stickers. Here are the requirements: minimum purchase of ¥5,000 per shop per

HANEDA AIRPORT

GETTING ONLINE

GETTING AROUND Tokyo’s public transport map looks like the deranged scribbles of a toddler, but it’s one of the most amazing networks in the world: punctual, convenient and virtually all-encompassing. Do note there is no public transport service at night; most trains, metros and buses run from 4am or 5am until around midnight (1am on certain lines). Public transport consists of metro, train and bus, all of which are run by several different companies. To save yourself the hassle of having to buy separate tickets each time, get a Suica or Pasmo, a rechargeable smart card

which will cost you over ¥20,000 and take up to two hours.

Getting Around

Going Goingunderground? underground? Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Welcome to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most efficient transport system

Getting Around 73 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyo April-June, 2020 Time Out Tokyo 77

… robots are your friends

You know you’re in Tokyo when…

By Kasey Furutani IT’S NO SECRET THAT JAPAN loves its robots. From ‘Astro Boy’ comics in the 1950s to today’s favourite robot cat Doraemon, robots have always been prevalent in Japanese pop culture, but now they are inhabiting the real world. Unlike the human-destroying robots commonly seen in sci-fi films, Japan’s real robots are friendly and happy to help – whether that’s assisting the disabled or acting as social companion. Tamagotchi these are not – here are some of the cute, weird and very advanced robots you can meet in Tokyo.

Qoobo Miraitowa and Someity

The Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic mascots, Miraitowa and Someity, have been turned into actual robots by the Toyota Motor Corporation. Unlike other task-oriented Olympic robots that will help clean balls off tennis courts or broadcast the Games, Miraitowa and Someity are more like cute ambassadors – cameras on their foreheads will sense humans nearby and they’ll wave and shake hands with people. A perfect robot introduction for young kids, Miraitowa and Someity are just a couple of friendly ’bots looking to bond with humans.

Sometimes the best part of having a pet is the warm and furry affection. Not quite a dog or a cat, Qoobo is a therapy robot that responds to touch. When stroked lightly, its tail will move gently and when played with, the tail will move quickly, like a dog having fun. A portable size will be released soon, so you can take your pillow-bot to work, on the train or wherever you need therapy – or want to scare people. Æqoobo.info. ¥12,120.

Ætokyo2020.org

Aibo

Bocco Emo

Lovot

Æaibo.sony.jp. ¥198,000.

Æbocco.me. Bocco ¥29,000, Bocco Emo to be released in May.

Ælovot.life. ¥299,800.

You can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but you can programme a robot dog. Sony’s Aibo has been around since 1999 but the most recent model comes with new APIs so the owner can direct Aibo to recognise objects and movements; the mechanical mutt can also be ‘potty trained’. Ideal for apartment dwellers, Aibo is just as playful as a regular puppy, minus the warm affection and shedding. Good thing Aibo won’t bother the neighbours with endless yapping – you can programme that right out.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2020

The clown-like Bocco Emo has a deeper task than just sitting around looking like a Dalek in a snowman costume. The robot is used to relay messages: parents record a message and Bocco Emo will play it to the kids once they return home from school. Unlike the first-gen Bocco, which only relays messages, Bocco Emo also shows emotion. Humans can confide in the robot and Bocco Emo’s cheeks will glow and either chirp or whine in response, depending on the word choice.

Derived from the words ‘love’ and ‘robot’, the penguin-like Lovot doesn’t do much besides follow you around the house on its wheel feet, watch you from a webcam ‘horn’ atop its head and love you. Everything about Lovot is made to create an emotional bond: it begs to be touched and coos when hugged; it will wheel to the door when you return home and ignore you if treated poorly. If you become really attached to your Lovot, you can even purchase a matching wardrobe for it.