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Attention!

The following itinerary is meant to help your safari planning. Since 1974, we at
Cowabunga Safaris have done many, many kinds and variations of safaris to
Zimbabwe.

This is only one kind of safari. Do you want something more upscale? Do you
want something more rustic and participatory? If you have a different safari
in mind, wish to stay longer, or want to travel to other parts of the continent,
tell us. We can make it happen.

ZIMBABWE:
“Mavuradonha Mountains, Mana Pools
& Victoria Falls”
Horseback and Canoeing Safari

-- SAFARI OVERVIEW --

Length: 14 days from the USA; 11 days in Africa

“The Mavs”: In contrast to Mana Pools (a World Heritage Site), and Victoria Falls
(one of the Seven Wonders of the World), the Mavuradonha
Mountains, or “The Mavs,” are one of Zimbabwe’s hidden treasures,
even to locals. You will be hard pressed to find them on any map. The
region is one of pristine, unpopulated bush situated some 112 miles
due north of Harare. Due to its ruggedness and remoteness, there is
only one road into the wilderness, terminating at Kopje Tops Camp
(see “Accommodations” below). There is no electricity, and the only
way to get around is on horse or on foot. The Mavuradonha Mountains
are such a beautiful place, of all the places Brian could have proposed
to his wife on the African continent, this is where he chose to pop
the question. (FYI: Karen said yes – but what choice did she have,
really, after he got her into the backcountry of such a remote area?)

Accommodations: 9 nights in the bush; 1 night in a hotel in Atlanta; 1 night in a lodge in


Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

In the Mavuradonha Mountains we stay at two camps: Kopje Tops


Camp and Bat Caves Camp. Kopje Tops Camp consists of a mere six
chalets, well spaced around the massive rock from which the camp
gets its name. Each chalet has a permanent queen-sized bed or twin
beds, an en suite bathroom with flush toilet, and a hot-water shower
(heated by an ingenious wood-fed boiler, the wood being sustainably
collected from already dead and fallen trees). Bat Caves Camp is
more rustic than Kopje Tops, and is comprised of four secluded
chalets, each opening to a private view of the surrounding bush. The
camp is in the shadow of the massive “Bat Caves Dome” (it looks like
Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, USA) and takes its name from
nearby caves which are home to the largest known colony of Egyptian
Fruit Bats south of the equator. Each chalet has its own long-drop
loo and bucket-and-pulley hot-water shower out back.

In Mana Pools, “Cowabunga Camps” are mobile tented camps (see side
picture). The tents are large – they are big enough to walk into and
stand in -- with comfortable twin beds complete with linen and
duvets. All tents are bug-proof with mesh windows and mesh
skylights, have nightstands next to the beds, and en suite toilet
facilities. The camps are designed to be erected and dismantled in
hours, leaving no trace of their existence on the environment.

With the exception of the one night we spend in a hotel in Atlanta,


and the one night we spend in a lodge at Victoria Falls, on this safari
we are truly in the bush. At night, lighting is provided by hurricane
lamps and candles, moon- or starlight, or by the torches (“flashlights”
in American English) you have brought with you. Because animals are
used to the presence of our camps and do not see us as a threat, it is
not uncommon for them to pass through our camps.

Pictures of all accommodations are available on request.

Gear: Nearly everything is provided on this safari. Safarists, therefore,


should bring only the bare essentials: binoculars, camera, three or
four changes of clothes in “bush colors” (i.e., khaki, browns and
greens – but no camouflage!), a wide-brimmed hat, sunblock, swimsuit,
a broken-in pair of comfortable walking shoes, and a pair of flip-
flops/water sandals. A warm jacket is a must, especially in the
Mavuradonha Mountains, and a stocking hat and gloves is
recommended. Cowabunga’s “Safari Briefing,” provided under
separate cover, covers all gear in detail.

Fitness Level,
Horses & Canoes: While a reasonable level of fitness does help, you do not have to be in
marathon condition. For example, in July 2002, Brian had a woman in
her sixties who readily joked that she was anything but a picture of
perfect health, yet she successfully completed (and thoroughly
enjoyed!) this safari. Horses, some of the most gentle and intelligent
to be found anywhere, are matched to individual abilities; Brian has
had first-time riders do well (although some riding experience is
preferred). Canoeing is with the Zambezi current, not against it,
does not involve white water, and requires paddling which is non-
technical. Walking in the Mavuradonha and Mana is as difficult or as
easy as you want it to be; the distances and pace depend entirely on
what you decide, your natural interests, and what encounters we have
along the way.

Group size: This safari will have as few as five Safarists, and no more than ten.

Food, Drinks,
Water & Laundry: If you are going on safari to lose weight, this one is not for you! For
all meals noted in this itinerary, a chef produces freshly-cooked,
exquisite meals. Other than the two nights we are at Atlanta and Vic
Falls, all drinks -- from cold sodas, to cold beer, to wine and spirits
(one must try a Zimbabwean “spook n’ diesel”) -- are complimentary.
Fresh filtered water -- as much as you want to consume -- is likewise
provided. In the Mavuradonha and Mana, chalets and tents are
serviced, beds are made, and laundry is done at no extra charge while
you are out exploring. In sum, dedicated long-time friends of
Cowabunga (some of whom have known us for nearly all of the three
decades we’ve been conducting safaris) look after us royally. All you
have to do is enjoy the natural African surroundings and abundant
wildlife!

Stay Longer: Experiencing all Africa has to offer is a once-in-a-lifetime privilege


for most. Accordingly, some Safarists like to stay longer. We at
Cowabunga Safaris understand! If, after this safari, you wish to
travel to Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, South Africa, or even to other
parts of the continent as far away as Kenya, we can help. In fact,
given our love of the continent, you can bet we’ll beg to join you!
Detailed Briefings: Cowabunga provides in-depth written briefings for all Safarists after
they sign-on for any safari. Furthermore, when possible, Cowabunga
conducts face-to-face briefings approximately three months before
departure. For those who can’t make the face-to-face briefings, a
detailed transcript of questions and answers is sent to them. Gary,
Brian and Nancy always stand ready to brief Safarists at a moment’s
notice via fax, phone, e-mail or in-person.

-- A NOTE FROM YOUR SAFARI LEADER --

People frequently ask me if I could go on only one more Safari, which would I choose? This
“Mavuradonha Mountains, Mana Pools & Vic Falls” Safari would be near the top. (Come on,
do you really expect me to limit myself to just one more safari? Not if I can help it!)
Indeed, so special is this safari that, because the places we go to are so beautiful, so
remote, so wild, and so unspoilt by the hands of humankind one can, for example, drink
straight from the streams and rivers. (Perish all those thoughts you might have about the
water in Africa.)

This safari starts in “The Mavs” of northern Zimbabwe. The remote Mavuradonha
Mountains are such a well-kept secret that if you were to ask any number of Zimbabweans
about it, most would think you were mispronouncing “Matusadonna,” the well-known hills
south of Lake Kariba. However, if you were to persist and to convince them that you were,
indeed, pronouncing the name correctly, I am confident many (if not most) would say they
had never even heard of the area, much less been to it. This is a shame. In June, the
southern hemisphere’s autumn, the Mavuradonha is typically a riot of colors. But the
beauty of the area extends beyond scenery. In this mountainous wilderness one can find
elephant, sable, zebra, duiker, klipspringer, grysbok, warthog, baboon, kudu, eland, and
many other mammal species, including lion and leopard.

The latter half of this safari takes us to what is perhaps the greatest wildlife river in
Africa, if not the world: the fabled Zambezi. We are on or beside this river in Mana Pools
National Park, a World Heritage site. Every day we move downstream to stay at a new,
specially-chosen Cowabunga campsite on the water’s edge. We have the option of
experiencing this wilderness in canoes, on foot, in vehicles, or through a mixture of all
three. Because we are privileged guests in their home, animals like elephant frequently
pass through our camps.

Our safari ultimately ends up at Victoria Falls, or Mosi-au-tunya in the local language: “The
Smoke that Thunders” — a reference to the mist the largest curtain of water in the world
produces, visible at times up to seven miles away!

Again, if I could go on only one more safari, this “Mavuradonha Mountains, Mana Pools & Vic
Falls” Safari would make the shortest of lists. I have never felt more insignificant, and
therefore more humble, than when standing in the wonderfully, wondrously wild expanses
of the Mavuradonha Mountains and Mana Pools, or beside spectacular Victoria Falls. On
this safari I have felt — with every faculty, to my very core — the timeless cycles of
nature.

-- THE ADVENTURE --

Day 1 EN ROUTE
Our safari begins! We depart Kansas City for Atlanta. Tonight we have a safari briefing
at the Courtyard Hotel in Atlanta, followed by a good night’s rest (assuming the
anticipation doesn’t keep us awake).

Day 2 EN ROUTE
We have a mid-morning South African Airways departure for Johannesburg, South Africa.
(B/L/D)

Day 3 MAVURADONHA MOUNTAINS


After an early morning arrival in Johannesburg, South Africa, we connect onward, on to
our short flight to Harare, Zimbabwe. From Harare, we travel overland to the wilderness
of the Mavuradonha Mountains, riven with deep valleys and laced by perpetual running
water. Our introduction to this magnificent area is Kopje Tops Camp.

Kopje Tops is situated in a breathtaking setting with Zimbabwe’s towering Great Dyke
range on one side, the Mavuradonha Mountains on two other sides, and the Tingwa Valley
stretching away to the far horizon on the fourth. Though there is no electricity (because
we are so remote, and the sounds of the bush are preferred to the sounds of pounding
generators), the camp is extremely comfortable. At the ingeniously designed center
structure — multitiered like a wedding cake — one can lounge in a sofa in front of the
fireplace before dinner, sip an ice cold drink, peruse the library, or have a 360-degree
view of the Mavuradonha and sky on the open roof. Multicourse meals are served replete
with white tablecloth and, in the evenings, candelabra.

Our accommodations at Kopje Tops are in six chalets, well-spaced around the massive rock
from which the camp gets its name and hidden amongst a grove of msasa trees. Inside the
chalets the walls are plastered, and polished floors gleam with rich earthy red tiles. Each
chalet has an en suite bathroom with a flush toilet and hot-water shower. All of the
structures use surrounding mountain rock for the walls, and native grasses for the thatch
roofs. B/L/D

Day 4 MAVURADONHA MOUNTAINS


The Mavuradonha Mountains teem with life: elephant, sable, zebra, duiker, klipspringer,
grysbok, warthog, baboon, kudu, eland, buffalo, waterbuck, reedbuck, bushbuck, impala,
bushpig, and many other mammals live here, including lion and leopard. Birdlife is prolific,
with 260 recorded species. Our activities cater to individual interests, abilities, and
comfort levels: we might set off on foot or horseback, climb a mountain, or swim in any
number of scenic streams (there is no bilharzia, and we’re too high for crocodile), all the
while looking for wildlife. Part of the reason why wildlife abounds in the Mavs is because
the Mavuradonha wilderness is part of Zimbabwe’s renowned CAMPFIRE project. Under
this project, part payment from our safari goes directly to African communities in the
region. CAMPFIRE funds help meet immediate needs while promoting conservation
because communities which derive a direct benefit from wildlife are inclined to protect it.

Day 5 MAVURADONHA MOUNTAINS


Today we set off on horseback for Bat Caves Camp. The camp is deep in the
Mavuradonha, over 30 kilometers from the one wilderness road that terminates at Kopje
Tops; all provisions and bags must be carried in by pack-horse. Bat Caves is more rustic
than Kopje Tops and is comprised of four secluded chalets, each opening to a private view
of the surrounding bush. Each chalet has its own long-drop loo and bucket-and-pulley hot-
water shower out back. The camp is in the shadow of the massive “Bat Caves Dome” and
takes its name from nearby caves which are home to the largest known colony of Egyptian
Fruit Bats south of the equator. It is a spectacle of nature to watch these bats emerge in
the thousands from the caves right at sunset! B/L/D

Day 6 MAVURADONHA MOUNTAINS


From Bat Caves Camp, we might climb Bat Caves Dome (see side picture), explore the bat
caves themselves, set off to find ancient bushmen paintings (there are many in the region,
most estimated to be hundreds of years old), or track and view sable (The Mavs are one of
few places left on the continent where herds with mature males with full swept back horns
can still be found). Today one truly begins to get a sense of what it must have been like
for the early explorers as we revel in the Mavuradonha’s beauty and bounty. B/L/D

Day 7 MAVURADONHA MOUNTAINS


Today we spend the better part of a the day returning on horseback to Kopje Tops. Keep
your eyes open: you never know when, where, or what kind of “unexpected eventualities”
might occur! B/L/D

Day 8 MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK


This morning we say farewell to the Mavuradonha and hello to what is perhaps the
greatest wildlife river in Africa, if not the world: the fabled Zambezi. During our time on
or beside this legendary river we are in Mana Pools National Park, the only park in
Zimbabwe to be granted World Heritage status. For three nights we stay in “Cowabunga
Camps”: mobile tented camps which are erected, dismantled, then erected once again at
specially-chosen sites as we canoe down the river (no small feat considering the tents are
large walk-in safari tents with proper twin beds, nightstands and en suite loos in each).
Our hot-water showers are temporary canvas enclosures with no roof, similarly dismantled,
moved and erected each day; after a well-earned day, there’s nothing like a hot shower
under a star-filled sky!
What makes Mana Pools so magical is that though we have the option of moving from camp
to camp in canoes, on foot, in vehicles, or through a mixture of all three, we do not always
have to actively search out wildlife and adventure. Most of our Cowabunga Camps are set
up on long-established elephant trails. As a result, it is not unusual to have gentlemen bulls
wander between our tents as we’re eating lunch, taking a shower, or bedding down for the
evening! Because these elephants have never had a negative encounter with humans, they
give us the privilege of being guests in their territory, quietly accepting our presence.
B/L/D

Day 9 MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK


Animals are everywhere in Mana Pools, and we should watch for lion, impala, waterbuck,
bushbuck, eland, jackal, hyena, and elephant, among other mammals. We should keep a
particular eye out for the highly endangered wild dog, especially when on game-drives or
walks. This abundance of wildlife and life provides a unique feeling. Cowabunga’s own self-
declared President-for-Life, Gary K. Clarke, conveys this when he writes: “In a canoe on
the Zambezi one feels a communion with the spirit of nature. On the north, the blue
mountains of Zambia ascend to the heavens. On the south, the river terraces of Mana
Pools National Park create a mosaic of habitats, with stately acacia trees, beautiful
mopanes, and thick-trunked baobabs. Hippos in large pods watch curiously as we float by.
Crocodiles bask in the sun, ignoring us. A female kudu stands alert on a high bank, the sun
forming a bronze cast on her body. Hundreds of brilliantly colored carmine bee-eaters
flitter in and out of their hole nests on a vertical mud bank above us. And around the
bend, a herd of elephants is bathing in the river and throwing mud over their bodies with
their trunks...” B/L/D

Day 10 MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK


By our third day in Mana, most of us have settled into a comfortable routine: gathering
around the campfire in the red dawn while warming our hands and insides with cups of hot
tea or coffee; eating a hearty breakfast of eggs made-to-order, fresh fruit, and toast
(toasted over an open fire); setting off by canoe, vehicle, or on foot, fully aware that the
day will become pleasantly warm — a marked contrast to the cold nights and cool early
mornings; watching a multitude of animals, often at extremely close quarters; enjoying a
well-earned hot shower in fading light; laughing over sundowners around a crackling fire;
sharing camaraderie and friendship with fellow Safarists at a candlelit dinner under an
open, star-filled sky; being lullabied into fitful, dreamless sleep by the snorts of hippos in
the river... This is how one was meant to live. B/L/D

Day 11 MANA POOLS NATIONAL PARK


As has been the Cowabunga tradition for the past twenty years, at some point while in
Mana all will be invited to participate in a group mudwallow along the Zambezi River. Today
might be the day! Because of how young one feels while wallowing, the importance of this
act cannot be understated. It serves as a tangible reminder that God does not deduct
days spent on safari from one’s allotted time on earth! (Please note that the Cowabunga
mudwallow may be preempted by unexpected eventualities like wild dogs in camp, or an
elephant occupying the wallow.) B/L/D

Day 12 VICTORIA FALLS


Today we get to see firsthand the many faces of the Zambezi as we fly upstream on a
charter plane from Mana Pools to Victoria Falls. Over Mana, considered the “lower
Zambezi,” the river is over a mile wide in places, dotted with islands, and spills out of its
main channels into multiple smaller ones. Over the “middle Zambezi” we find Lake Kariba,
which at one time was the largest man-made lake in the world. Finally, on the “upper
Zambezi” we come to Victoria Falls, the largest curtain of water in the world. At the
height of the rainy season 140 million gallons of water pour over the falls every minute!
The Zambezi is violent here. It plunges over Victoria Falls’ mile-long lip, which is over
twice as high as Niagara Falls, only to have to squeeze through sheer-sided gorges a couple
hundred feet wide in places. From our lodge, the Falls themselves are a mere 15 minutes
away. Because Vic Falls town is in a national park, there are still opportunities for wildlife
encounters. B/L/D

Day 13 VICTORIA FALLS/JOHANNESBURG


Today we transition back to our modern existences. We catch an early afternoon flight
out of Vic Falls to Johannesburg, where we connect on to our South African Airways
trans-Atlantic flight to the USA. B/(L/D)

Day 14 HOME
This morning we arrive early in Atlanta where we connect on to our flights home. While
Africa is now half a world away, the spirit of our “Mavuradonha Mountains, Mana Pools &
Vic Falls” Zimbabwe Horseback & Canoeing Safari most assuredly endures. Cowabunga! (B)

Safaris since 1974.

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