BBW – Brazilian Big Walls

Update - June 28th, 2013: Another huge route was conquered in Pedra Riscada again, called "Divina Liberdade", 1100 meters (3.609 ft), great ah?

It all started with smaller routes decades ago. As the years gone by, the routes eventually got bigger. The rock climbing was also reflected in our mountains. In the early 1990s were open three routes in Rio de Janeiro with difficulties that have previously only been found in blocks and cliffs. One was the “Barriga do Pássaro” (“belly of the Bird”), classified as a IXb (BR) (5.13b US), a variant between “Caixinha de surpresas” (“box of surprises”) and “Waldo” routes, in the north side of Sugar Loaf. This route was opened by Ralph Cortes, Luis Claudio "Pita" and Márcio Lozada, being completed for the first time after a few years. After that, Alexandre Portela, Luis Cortes Claudio Pita and Ralph opened the “A um passo do espaço” (“one step to the outer space”), VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US), on the Totem of Sugarloaf. From base to the summit, going through the routes “As Lacas também amam” (“The cracks can love too”) and “Revolta dos Gravatás” (“Gravatás revolt”), there are at least 5 pitches, totaling 240 meters, mostly graduated in VIIc (BR) – 5.11c (US) and VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US) in the last edge. In Corcovado, Alexandre Portela, Luis Claudio "Pita", Sérgio Tartari and Marco Vidomi opened the “Atalho do Diabo” (“Devil's shortcut”), working every thrust out all the way up until a section of free climbing. There are about 300 meters, with one pitch of VIIIa (BR) – 5.12a (US), two pitches are VIIIc (BR) – 5.12c (US), one of Xa (BR) – 5.13a (US) and others in seventh grade. The route still waits to be completed in just one push from base to summit in one single day. "Pita" came close to it, climbing it with only one fall. The Xa pitch was not completed without falls so far. Even today this route is a challenge for new generations.

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That was just the beginning. Things changed with the years and longer, bigger trad routes were conquered. Much more. The traditional climb not only didn’t disappeared, as it returned with full force at the turn of the century. Until 2000, the major routes of Brazil had approximately 700 meters long (2.297 ft). And now, well, take a look at these:

East face of Pico Maior. Pico Maior ("Major Peak"/ "Higher Peak"). Nova Friburgo/ RJ

Photo: http://rafaelsardinha.blogspot.com/2008_07_01_archive.html


Photo: Pedro Hauck

Name: “Face Leste do Pico Maior”. Route: 700 ~ 750 meters. (2.296 ft ~ 2.460 ft)
Difficulty: 5 Vlsup A0 E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.10d (US)

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Nothing is what it seems to be. Paulista Rock. Itaguaçú/ ES

Photo: http://www.blogdobaldin.blogspot.com/

Name: “Nada é o que parece ser”. Route: 800 meters. (2.625 ft)
Difficulty: 4 V E4 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

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Shadow of all fears. Cantagalo Peak. Petrópolis/ RJ

Photo: http://amagiadamontanha.blogspot.com/2010/02/soma-de-todos-os-medos.html

Name: “A Sombra de todos os medos”. Route: 810 meters. (2.657 ft)
Difficulty: 5 VSup D4 (BR)/ 5.8 – 5.10a (US)

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North Face of Cabritos Hill. Teresópolis/ RJ


(route in dark blue - left)
Photo: Daniel Bonella

Name: “North face”. Route: 840 meters. (2.756 ft)
Difficulty: 6 VIIb A1 (BR)/ 5.10a – 5.11c (US)

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West Face of Pedra Riscada. Ataleia/ MG


Photo: Eduardo Half
Name: “Face Oeste Pedra Riscada”. Route: 850 meters. (2.789 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VIIa A2+ E5 (BR)/ 5.11a (US)

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South Face of Escalavrado Peak. Guapimirim/ RJ


Photo: FEMERJ
Name: “Abuso”. Route: 900 meters. (2.953 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VII A2+ (BR)/ 5.11a (US)

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The sky is the limit. Cabritos Hill. Teresópolis/ RJ


(route in yellow)
Photo: Daniel Bonella
Name: “O céu é o limite”. Route: 950 meters. (3.117 ft)
Difficulty: 7 VIIb A1 E2 (BR)/ 5.11 – 5.11c (US)

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Pedra Du Bois. Santa Maria Madalena/ RJ


Photo: altamontanha.com
Name: “Magic Realm”. Route: 1.035 meters. (3.396 ft)
Difficulty: 4 V E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

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Maria Cumprida Peak. Petrópolis/ RJ


Photo: http://daboit.blogspot.com
Name: “Maria Nebulosa”. Route: 1.040 meters. (3.412 ft)
Difficulty: 3 VII E3 (BR)/ 5.6 – 5.8 (US)

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Divine Freedom. Pedra Riscada. Ataleia MG